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No kidding, Jens? They are making fuel piping in plastic, now? This is good to know. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30608... MORE
Hi guys I'm at the stage now where I'm about to fit the fuel line to the Midget. The brake lines have been done in 3/16" cupro/nickel alloy and I was going to do the fuel line in this as well, but having just seen the price of a 25' roll of 1/4" cupro/nickel pipe =A333 ($60) of which I'll probably only use about 6 or 7 feet of seems a bit excessive! Specially when 25' roll of 1/4" steel pipe is only =A310 ($18). Any thoughts? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30569... MORE
Mark... Running rough can mean anything, so not really enough to go on. Usually an engine which runs "rough" under load is either overadvanced in terms of ignition or suffering from an ignition system which requires attention in that the spark is breaking down under load. This could be a bad coil, wires, cap or any other individual component not quite up to snuff. It could also be a combination of worn items, as well. Lastly, there is the fuel supply. Float levels set too low, inadequate pressure (old or bad pump) or inadequate supply (clogged filter, line or... MORE
Does the truck have an electric fuel pump? You could try disconnecting the fuel line after the pump and emptying the tank that way. Be careful if it's got fuel injection - the pumps run at quite a high pressure compared to 'our' cars. Alternatively, you could syphon it out. Regards David "David Jacobs" 30553... MORE
Dave... Head down to your local automotive store and pick up a couple of bottles of "dry gas" (isopropyl alchohol or whatever it really is!:) and dump 'em in. Then, fill it up. This should do the trick but the real question is..where did all the water come from? :( Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30551... MORE
Listers - (sounds like something you call people after a night on a booze cruise) I finally got my car home, created a folder in the photo section ("Ricks 75") and uploaded a photo... Figured out what caused the PO from finishing the restoration, he had snapped 2 bolts off while removing the passenger side front shock for some reason, soaking in WD40 for a couple of days and small amount of heat and the stubs came right out. The car is in supprisingly good shape (for Wisconsin), the previous owner towed it up from New Mexico, so it... MORE
JC asks (and rightfully so)..."Cheaper than gas?" No...but more bounce to the ounce! :) Coors Light seems to suit it's tastes and if it doesn't finish, I'm there to back it up in this event! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30387... MORE
I think the seller has "toked" not tooken. or is the past tense of toke.. tooken? come on pot heads, enlighten me. Im from Wisconsin and we tip cows at night for fun. we don't know about these big city slicker ways of y'all. Brad, a RB midget may well be worth 30k in my life, how the hell old are you anyway? remember, gas was only 65 cents a gallon in 1974. and in 1965 it was "gas wars" and only what ( I was a very small kid riding in my sisters car) 6 gallons for a... MORE
Bob A wow factor of 4.6 - is that out of a 1,000? And if you want your brake, clutch and fuel lines to look like the wiring of an electrical plug - go right ahead! N "amukdigiphoto" 30239... MORE
G'day TJ Remove the float bowl lids and, with a compressed air gun, blow the sludge out of the sump at the bottom of the bowls. Remove the carby dashpost and blow air into the bottom of the float bowl to ensure the fuel supply jet to the carby is clear. We had a car in the shop recently with a similar problem - idled fine but wouldn't go up a hill. Plenty of fuel in the float bowl, but the fuel supply jet was 90% blocked and nothing was getting to the carby. And if the car has... MORE
Rob C. "Stickyness" IS usually the sign of a jet (or slightly bent needle) not exactly centered. SU makes a "Tuning Tool Set" ($15?) which has a jet centering tool which will line this little critter up perfectly. If this doesn't free things up, most likely a slightly bent needle, then. It is important to keep the same suction valve with the same suction chamber. I am told these are "matched" at the factory. There should be no sticking between valve and chamber when these parts are clean of all varnish/fuel deposit which may have accumulated over use/time. Cap'n.... MORE
Cap'n Bob- What leads me to believe I have an issue as to fuel flow is that my car is acting very simmilar to the motorcycles I race when I have had fuel flow issues (pinched fuel line, clogged filter, even started a race once time with the fuel petcock 1/2 way on). It's like it runs peachy in lower RPM's and if I gas it, it runs fine in the upper range too, for about 5-10 seconds, until the float bowls are depleated. At this point, it runs like crap even at low RPM's until float bowls fill... MORE
I have 2 main mechanical issues I will need to fix before doing any real driving. (I have many other non-mechanical issues, some even just mental). 1. Brake pedal needs "pumped" to build up pressure. Once I pump it a few times I can hold it down and it stays firmly (doesn't go all the way to the floor no matter how hard I push). Before I pump it, it goes all the way to the floor. When I let off the brakes, and drive for a bit, I need to go through the whole process again. I don't... MORE
Neighbors must think me crazy . . . My 73 has the notorious sticking fuel pump contacts. Usually it works but after about a week of sitting it acts up. I keep my knock off hammer behind the seat . . . if I do not hear the fuel pump start clicking when I turn on the key I reach back behind me, take the big lead knock off hammer and hit the back wheel arch behind the passenger seat. It gets the message and starts clicking. Works every time.... Beats getting out, finding a broom handle and sticking... MORE
I have a 73, and a 74. They had only sat for about a year each, however I did have a 62 that the previous owner had run since 1987 and then only for a couple of months, almost 22 years total except for that short period . . . There are things you can count on fixing and replacing when they sit that long . On the 73 I disconnected the fuel line from the float bowls, stuck it in a jar and turned on the key to activate the fuel pump to see how the fuel was... MORE
An added thought. When using compressed air through the fuel lines also be sure and not blow it back into the carburetor bowls. What year is it and if it was stored before you bought it how long was it sitting not running? Don "Don May" 30138... MORE
Don May... Try the NY cheese cake with a little chocolate syrup...and a fine cup of coffee!! Rocket fuel! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 29981... MORE
Hi, My gas pedal often sticks (does not return all the way back). I can usually fix it by tapping it a bit but sometimes I have to quickly hook it with my shoe to get the revs back down to idle speed. I have determined that this problem is caused by corrosion on the floor hinge rather than a problem with the throttle springs, cable or the bent rod between the cable and the pedal. I have improved the pedal's action somewhat by applying oil and wd40 to the hinge and by excersizing the pedal to try and... MORE
Ah, yes... I have to clean the inside of my fuel gauge this spring...the gasket has obviously worn to a point where moisture can condense within. Easiest way I have found is to remove the gauge but, not before I loosen the bracket, pull it out and give it a try from the front. Sometimes it comes off with a little prying and sometimes it won't. At that point removal completely to get a decent grip is the only answer I have found to getting the job done. I reseal them by using black silicone sparingly. Cap'n. Bob '60... MORE
Two down without removing the dash . . . have nice clean tach and speedometer glass now but the worst ones are the fuel and oil/temp . . . may have to wait for a dash removal for those. Don "Don May" 28984... MORE
Fuel line? Why?? Guy "Guy Weller" 28734... MORE
Jim- It really was easy. After I had the rear support set up, I actually lifted the car ever so slightly with the floor jack under the diff. This took the weight off the attachment points, and away I went. Not to be a smart ass, but please don't forget the brake lines, emerg brake cable, fuel line and prop shaft. Once it is out, it is fairly easy for two people to lift it onto a set of horses for attention at a comfortable working level. I did a full restoration this way, including painting. By the way,... MORE
My rear end has never dropped.....but my wife's has. Jokes aside....I removed mine as a unit. Used a 4x4 across the back behind the fuel tank, supported by jack stands. Placed floor jack under diff and lowered it while having person on each side steady it. Was really quite easy. Wouldn't do it any other way! Paul "dfwip" 28728... MORE
Jim, I think Nigel & I use much the same system, although I would remove the whole lot, axle and springs as a single unit. It is easy enough for one person to manage. Jack the car up and support on axle stands close to, but not obstructing, the mounting plates for the front end of the rear springs. Use a timber support to spread the load if you can, but it isn't really essential. Get it reasonably high enough to give working space underneath. Support the axle on a trolly jack under the centre point of the diff.... MORE
Jim When I worked on mine there were two places I put them, but I used a length of stout timber to spread the loads across the width of the car. The first place was just inside, (towards the middle of the car) or just forwards from where the forward spring hangers mount to. The second was to the left and right of the boot floor (when my petrol tank was removed). So I guess in your situation, I'd be putting them just inside, or just forward of the forward spring hanger mounts with a length of timber running... MORE
