MAIN
Fuel System
Previous Page | Next Page
I am in the process of installing new Autometer Phantom Series gauges in place of the Smiths (as well as adding a couple additional) in my Midget. I need to know the full resistance and empty resistance of the fuel level sending unit. Its a 1974 RWA. I have seen this listed somewhere but I just can't find the info. TIA, Tad 1969 MGC GT 1974 RWA Midget "Richard Rivenbark" 32465... MORE
In the process of removing the rear axle I've run into a bit of a frustration. It looks like it will be necessary to remove the backing plate for the brakes in order to remove the axle fastening for the quarter elliptical spring on my Mk 2 Sprite. After removing the brakes I am unable to turn the large nut holding the bearing in place. Working on the left side I know it will have to be turned clockwise but after flattening the locking washer I am still unable to budge it. Will it be necessary to buy a... MORE
I can appreciate that you have distinct forums for various topics, but it makes it too difficult to see if there is anything of interest. I'd like to be able to see the latest posts from all of the forums on one screen. Does that make sense? If you look at the forum traffic on the mgbbs and the britishcarforum.com you will see that there might not be enough interest to have it broken down into so many topics. However, it would be good to have an index for archived threads. Then when I have a question about the... MORE
I am in the middle of changing the front suspension on the 68. I am catching my breath, and allowing the spring pans and disc brake backers to dry from being coated with fresh paint. Thank you to Peter for the new shocks, I will have the cores on their way to you this week. Btw, I was missing the bolt on the right shock that keeps the trunion bolt from turning, I hope this isn't a big issue. Just Ed, the parts are great, everything is going on fine!!! All the bolts coming threaded through the bushings, eliminated... MORE
I'm having as problem removing the brass nut for the fuel line coming out of the tank. The tank is now off the car but the nut refuses to budge after several days of penetrating oil (Kroil) soaking. Part of the problem is that the nut is an odd size and none of my wrenches/spanners fit it properly. It is within a few thou of .600 inches and this does not match up to fractional sizes. 19/32 is as close as I can find and at that size I have only an open end wrench. I purchased my Sprite... MORE
Hi Nelson, The nut size is 5/16" Whitworth. If you have that wrench, slip it over from the fuel pump or cut the line to slip the wrench on. Because of the nut construction it's REAL easy to collapse it. If it's really corroded to the tank, likely an adjustable wrench will collapse the nut, so be careful. Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32190... MORE
Yeah. Im going to have to find some other type of shoes to wear strictly for driving my Midget. My MR2 has come along way since those pics. 90% of the car has been painted now. All thats is left to paint is the aftermarket front and rear airdam and then reassembly. If you look at the third pic youll see that Iv put a driver side air vent. The first gen MR2s only had it on the right side. Iv also relocated the gas filler to the B pillar of both sides of the car and installed Datsun... MORE
"Maybe condensation...." Absolutely!! As previously mentioned... a normal part of start up from cold in the morning, most definitely with a car left outside overnight, and most definitely in cool, damp weather. Problem is, I'm "over here", Guy Weller is "over there" and Jens is somewhere else! So we can't see what Jens is looking at under these circumstances in terms of "extent". Is it normal, or "abe normal" (courtesy, "Young Frankenstein":) It sounds abnormal considering it happens every morning to a great extent, whether the ambient air is "dry" or "wet". The engine warms up after a couple... MORE
Blackish/Grey you say? Well ALLRIGHTY THEN, Jens...it's not oil!! :):) Oil is bluish in color and "stays" in the air. and....the exhaust definitely smells of burning oil (and not unburnt gasoline). Whitish/grey (or gray) is water which is a byproduct of combustion and along with condensation within the exhaust system is produced most abundantly when a "cold" motor (overnight sit, fr'instance) is initially fired up, most definitely on those cool, humid mornings when it tends to stay in the air rather than more immediately evaporate as it does in "drier" air. Black is definitely unburnt gasoline which we get... MORE
Just as a matter of interest, guys, I've got a 1500 motor out of the car at the moment and have replaced big-ends/mains/thrusts and noticed that the cam lobe which operates the mechanical fuel pump is worn right away! The motor itself has only done about 40000 miles and someone had stuck a electric pump on it, probably believing it had failed. It actually works fine in your hand, but the cam doesn't operate it! Just a thought before making a decision. Mark. "spritelychap" 32026... MORE
Dear Listers, After my mechanical fuel pump failed at 1500 miles I am entertaining the idea of going electric. The enigine is out so.........! Found a Walbro fixed electric pump 2.5 to 4.5 lbs. pressure delivery on JC Whitney. Should I make the swithch? Is the Walbro a reasoable unit? Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 32012... MORE
Facet is now owned by Purolator. Quaker State is now owned by Pennzoil. Fram builds all the Pennzoil oil filters. The list goes on!!! Paul a Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] E-bay fuel pump This same low pressure pump is marketed by Purolator under part # 12S or PRO 12S Chris PilotRob@... writes: "Paul Asgeirsson" 31995... MORE
Ed, You're right and I'm not! Page 34 of the "Complet Official MG 1500 Shop Manual gives kerbside weight "including full fuel and all optional extras as 1849 lbs./839 kg NOT 1859 lbs. How much do I make out the check for and would it be for cash? Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 31961... MORE
Alan, Can't help with a 76 but my official workshop manual gives the curb weight of a 1975 (Gas and all fluids, no driver) at 1,859 lbs. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 31955... MORE
Some of you may remember a mail i wrote a few days agoo were i told you my float bowls went almost empty. Well i think i have found the cause of this problem as well. I changed the petrol line from the tank yesterday and when removing the old one that had a joint before the pump (mechanical) with a short piece of rubber tubing the hose clip on one end was loose and the actual rubber tubing was loose as well. I could just pull it off by hand easily. I recon the pump must have sucked... MORE
Sounds like either a) more suction on the front carb - in which case you need to balance the carbs, adjusting the throttle stop screws of each whilst litening to the induction hiss from each one in turn - or using one of the many crb ballancer kits available or b) You have not got the jets adjusted to the same point on both carbs, allowing the front one to pull more fuel through. The start point is both jets flush with the bridge ( see "cryptic manual" thread ), and then lower both jets by the same amount... MORE
Hi list, I have huffaker spec 1 1/4" HS2's on my 948 competion motor. When I look in the air rams I see a fountain of un-atomized fuel coming up around the needle of the front carb while running. No fuel is visible when looking in the rear carb. I'm guessing the front float bowl needle is not shutting off and pressure is building up and forcing the fuel in the carb. I have a holley pressure regulater that I think I have adjusted to the minimum pressure (about 1 psi) Is this likely the cause? (I have new... MORE
BTW... www.LBCarCo.com also carries a "reasonably priced" nifty little round LP electric fuel pump as well. They've advertised and carried this pump for a long time so while I've no personal experience with it, it must be decently reliable and dependable or it would have disappeared from Jeff's stocks a long time ago, methinks. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31903... MORE
I'm running a pair of inch and a half SU's and no idea what the fuel pressure should be. Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 31884... MORE
Dear Listers, All this fuel pump talk has got me indecisive. Had to have the car towed home after the mechanical pump crapped out with under 1500 miles on it. I now have the motor out for clutch replacement and vacillating between buying a new mechanical or getting a $40 Warburg electronic and fitting that. Besides the usual concerns I'm also installing twin SU's to replace the ace Stromberg. The larget twin fuel bowls are a concern or am I being iggerant? Advice and comments are kindly solicited Rob C 75 Midget being redone right..... I hope. Webfoot Leisure.com... MORE
Bob... Larger bowls are of no concern. Pump doesn't care unless the engine is highly tuned and than one can use a higher pressure (output) with a pressure reg. I find the low pressure (LP) Facet (4psi+-) mounted in the rear in place of the SU... works fine without a pressure regulator on SU's. With my PO'd "Vizardized" 1340 (90HP at the rear wheels) I used the HP Facet (6-8psi) with a pressure reg. set to 2.5psi for a 45DCOE. This engine went to 7k and was mostly used between 3500-4000rpm on the highway. It was also capable of... MORE
Ed in ND states..."...while this is obviously not concours..." Couldn't agree more with you, Ed. I personally have used Facet low pressure solid state pumps for years. While they now go for about $70=$80 a pop, I get them for cost, inclusive of the metal filter fit to the inlet side between tank and pump. I replace these ("hard time" preventive maint.) once every three years whether they need it or not instead of waiting for them to wear out and suddenly "fail" (which all electric pumps do in time, brand notwithstanding). The inlet filters I replace annually. Cap'n.... MORE
Solid state (electronic) SU Fuel Pump from Moss...US$119.95 in either pos or neg ground. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31868... MORE
Well, Jens...lot of variables here including outside air temp and the clearances to which the engine was built. Mineral oils are where it's at for break- in, Jens. Synthetics (or partial synthetic) should not be used as they reduce rather than promote, fricition "Breaking in" means friction between parts and you'll get a lot LESS of this with the more "slippery" synthetic and partial synthetics. Mineral oils aren't as slippery so friction would he higher, thus accelerating the break-in process. Most likely, since you've switched to mineral oil, the break-in process is actually continuing and not really over, miles... MORE
Hi Nelson, I have some AC rebuild kits for the mechanical pump. NOS, but who knows how fresh and good they are. Contact me off list if you're interested Another way of going and this is something my Morris friends do but for another reason. The Morris pump is mounted on the firewall in full view of anyone wanting to see it. Some want to have a pristine, all original looking engine bay, but prefer some reliability. So they mount an electronic Facet/Purolator fuel pump near the fuel tank and leave the old pump in the engine compartment with... MORE
