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Hi all, The generic model Purolator / Facet solid state fuel pump comes in several pressure models: 1-1/2 to 3-1/2 psi, 25 GPH Delivery 2-1/2 to 4-1/2 psi, 30 GPH Delivery I found the following information on the pressure of the original AUF 300 SU pumps AZX 1307 2.7 psi AZX 1308 3.8 psi both listed as 18 gal per hour. Question is . . . which model Purolator / Facet solid state fuel pump would work best as a replacement for the SU pump on a 74 Midget? Anyone had any experience with these pumps? Don Don May... MORE


Jim, I might share with you the start up procedure my dad taught me. I think it works well for older rebuilt motors, not the new crate motors of today etc. When ready to start, add regular oil, 30w or even 20w single weight out of the ground oil. Pull plugs after static timing, a squirt of oil in the cylinders, crank engine with plugs out and ignition off until you see oil pressure. Even better to have the valve cover off to make sure oil reaches the rockers. Put in plugs and valve cover. Put pans of tap... MORE


G'day all Well this guy describes this as: 3000 MkI MkII MkIII Sprite Healey bugeye bj8 bn1/bn2 and it isn't, but isn't it wonderful? Someone must want to buy it! Can't you just see it with a small block Chevy and air suspension? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Very-Early-Austin-complete-rolling-chassis-Vintage-part_W0QQitemZ7989430709QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Now this is an incredible item. It is a blanking plug that replaces the distributor. WOW, just think how long each tank of gas will last! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7989275125&category=72205&rd=1 avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 37990... MORE


Jody - I too have removed those lovely lumps from my 75, they sure are heavy, (should increase gas milage) get help lifting them if you remove them, my buddy still has them rolling around in the back of his pick-up, says he'll use them for weight when snow plowing this winter.... Have not gotten around to fabricating my nerf bars yet, or the small round area left under the rear tailights, or the front turn signals.... Later Rick Bender "Rick Bender" 37954... MORE


"...or am I being over-cautious?" I don't know. You like being in the position of the engine quitting suddenly and arbitrarily at any given point in the t ime/space continuum due to fuel starvation??? Gimme a break!!! Replace the damn thing with a modern "electronic" (point-less) solid state pump and move on. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37918... MORE


It's a good thing you are not in the USA. If you had used a "torch" over here, that fuel pump could have caused a major disintegration of the body of the car and of you. Nelson Purposely dismantled MK 2 Sprite "Nelson Wittstock" 37915... MORE


Thanks for the advice guys. With the aid of an old wing mirror & torch I was able to locate the fuel the pump, give it a tap & sure enough "tick tick..." I think I'll keep a lookout for a spare, or am I being over cautious ? "johnco89" 37914... MORE


Hi, Appolgies for a simple question but I'm a novice :) I've just damaged my back trying to locate the fuel pump on my '73 Midget. I believe pump may be faulty. (Car won't start & no "ticking sound" from rear end when ignition is first turned on. Thanks "johnco89" 37874... MORE


Jim, I would be thrilled if I owned a BE that would be good enough to qualify as a "Trailer Queen". Or could it be a "Trailer King"? Bob Brad, Me-thinks you are a little harsh on the owner of a "Trailer Queen". It actually could be some one like me ( it isn't, but it could be), who scrimps every dime to make his car as perfect as humanly possible, over many years, skinned knuckles, pissed off wife, depleted check book and someone who values perfection. He trailers his car, and never drives it for fear of a... MORE


Brad, Me-thinks you are a little harsh on the owner of a "Trailer Queen". It actually could be some one like me ( it isn't, but it could be), who scrimps every dime to make his car as perfect as humanly possible, over many years, skinned knuckles, pissed off wife, depleted check book and someone who values perfection. He trailers his car, and never drives it for fear of a stone ding, or dust on the under side of the correct SU fuel pump. He perhaps wins shows and honors due to his years of hard work and care... MORE


Sorry, Colin. Here's the correct one: http://strangecosmos.com/content/item/6939.html and: Redneck gas grill: http://strangecosmos.com/content/item/9342.html "joe blxfstz" 37540... MORE


Let's see, You are saying that last year when I was driving My Bugeye, and the gauge worked just fine, then a month ago when I filled the tank, so it shows "Full," but I drove it 70 miles (6 gal gas tank) and it stills says "Full", it is a "discontinuity" problem that I should look for.... That sounds like a "Lucas wiring" problem. :() Bob, Troutdale, OR So, should I Ground the tank, or start chicking the wire to the tank connections? "Robert Webb" 37532... MORE


Thanks for the info Colin. The problem was a bad earth through the tank. Problem now resolved with a gauge that reads the contents! Happy motoring Mike "Mike Ross" 37524... MORE


G'day guys Cooler air is denser, denser air picks up more fuel and carries it intot he combustion chamber, and you get a bigger bang. So a little more power. Something you would notice at speed not on a dyno. Correctly positioned, the intake will also provide a ram air effect - a mini blower. Note: more of each, fuel and air, so it's still at the correct fuel/air ratio, not "more fuel" as in running richer. I do like your idea Robert, a little lateral thinking going on there. If you set it up correctly you might actually... MORE


Im having a spot of bother with a '59 Sprite. The fuel gauge always registered about a third full so while I had to remove the tank, I carried out some resistance tests. The sender unit came up as faulty so was duly replaced. Now that the new sender unit is in place, I am getting full on the gauge when the ignition is on. I have checked the wiring to the sender unit and it is not earthing anywhere. The owners handbook has some tips regarding testing of the fuel gauge which I have tried but I am... MORE


Mike, You have the two green wires (Green & Green/black) reversed. Swap them and see what happens. The green wire is the 12 volt source wire and goes to the "B" post on the fuel gauge and the Green/black wire from the sending unit goes to the "T" post. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 AH Sprite 'Ole Gray' in "The Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie" http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 37504... MORE


G'day all Let's start with a definition. Those non-standard tubular pipes that bolt onto your cylinder head to let the exhaust gas out, and eventually join into one "collector" for the exhaust pipe, are called "extractors" or in some languages "headers". "Exhaust" includes these plus everything down the line, past the muffler to the chrome tip on the tail pipe. I guess we are talking here about insulating the extractors, not the entire exhaust system. We run in all our engines on a calibrated engine dyno. It lives in a 10ft x 15ft brick room with a huge fan... MORE


Joe and others.. I understand that keeping the air intake cooler is definatly a good thing. But as I was saying I have heard that keeping the exhaust manifold hot, insulated is a good thing, independant of the fact it helps keep the engine area cooler. Mainly because of gas flow is better at hot temperatures? Or may be its because changing the density of the gas, as it cools down restricts the flow? "gav_newman" 37447... MORE


I've got it on my A series' LCB, but that was mainly to keep exhaust heat away from the carb float bowls before I had a proper heatshield in place. Can't say I noticed anything other than not getting fuel vaporisation. David "David Jacobs" 37441... MORE


Jeremy... these "tubes" feed graduated (specifically sized) orifices through which crankase gasses are fed into the combustion process in a measured amount, off the "flame arrestor/oil vapor separator (through appropriate hoses and plastic "T" fit ting) mounted on the timing chain cover. These make up the "exit" or "exhaust" side of the PCV system on engines so equipped, the "inlet" side of the equation being a filtered plastic oil filler cap on the "early" cars or a feed tube into the valve cover (again, through a "graduated orifice) from the charcoal cannister on later emissions vehicles equipped with closed... MORE


"Fuel pressure adjustment" Cured that! Good thinking, Will. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37305... MORE


re: Rich running after installing weber. Well, I didn't touch the Weber DGV, but I did lower the fuel pressure regulator down from 2.5 to 1.5 and the idle is MUCH better - remarkably so. After doing this, I remembered reading that these were low pressure carbs, but I had no idea it would make such a difference. Thx to all those that replied. "Will and Lyudmila" 37297... MORE


I have just replaced the head gasket on my 1500cc Midget, so I was quite chuffed to say the least when it turned over after only a few attempts. However I was not so happy when I noticed at lot of petrol was coming from the bottom of the rear float. I have twin SU carbs. I know that this was dripping a tiny amout of petrol before I changed the gasket but it is now flooding out. I realise extra fuel will have got in while I was turing the engine over to set the rocker gaps, but... MORE


WEBER DCOE "air" screws They are not air screws. They are volume screws, the mixture for the idle circuit having been pre-set by your choice of idle (air/fuel combo) jet. 1.5 turns "out" is merely a starting point for setting. You may find your particular choice of idle jet runs best at only 1 turn out or even less. If you cannot find a setting which will work, you will have to change the idle jet for a less rich (weaker) one which may either consist of a smaller fuel aperature OR same fuel aperature with a larger air... MORE


There is a poly-block that goes between intake manifold and carb prior to the heat shield/carb. And I recall there was (asbestos-type) insulation on the shield of my PO'd MGA's. I do not recall this on my later post-60/70 Spridgets or MGB's. Not on my Frog restored by PO, either. Of course, any Home Despot will carry something which can be used along wit h modern adhesives that will do the trick. Or heat reflective paint/coating. Beyond higher engine compartment temps in warmer weather which translate into higher induction air temps and gener ally less peppy performance under these... MORE