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Foam, Foam? Got a pair of pancake air filters from my long suffering Spridget buddy. They had been in his garage tucked away for some time. The foam elements had decided to give up the ghost (probably from boredom) and just disintegrated, flinging pieces of themselves I know not where. Ole quick on the draw me didn't even consider this until much too late. Carb pistons seem to move smoothly but rear carb is definitely sucking harder. I'll try your suggestion but will probably remove the rear carb and clean. Hopefully that will help cause I sure don't know... MORE
I would suggest removing the air cleaners such that you can look down the carb throats and see the slides (we are talking SU's here, are we not?). Stick a finger in each and raise the slides up and look for the "frog". If you raise a slide up, then let it drop, it should lower smoothly and both slides should "sit" the same in the carb bores. Something may also be lodged in the throttle plate beyond the slide...something like...FOAM??? OK, spill it...foam? Come on...we need some entertainment... "Jim" 36662... MORE
Rob: Me thinks in your heart AND soul you DO know the answer -) !! Carbs AND intake OFF. Ed "justbrits" 36668... MORE
Dear Spridgetland, Before I operate I wanted to throw this our for comment or ideas. Dear old McGee, my 75 Midget now has dual 1.25 carbs and a manifold from a 1300 Spit. New carb needles have been installed and the motor runs well except..........it idles at 2000rpm! I've sprayed down the intake connections to head and carbs with WD and couldn't detect a leak. Other info: The motor may have accidentally ingested foam air cleaner material( I wont say how but it was stupid). The motor idled at the proper rpm when I first got it going then... MORE
no fire. It's getting gas because I can see it and smell it but it's not catching. I cleaned the sparkplugs which had a little carbon on them. What do I use to clean out the bowls on the carb? Any clue why it might not be starting? "Ginger" 36481... MORE
I'm charging the battery on my 65. It's been sitting for a while with a malfunctioning clutch master cylinder. Is there anything I should run through the fuel line to clean the carbs? "Ginger" 36457... MORE
hi all im new here so i thought i would introduce myself. my name is David i live in Georgia . i own a 1970 mg midget that has been modified to race in autocross. it has a 2.8 chevy v6 with 12.1 comp. a solid lift .454 lift cam a edlebrock intake with a holley 390cfm carb and a 175 shot of nitrous. its fun and fast. im goin to rebuild it and put it back on the street (sleeper) . i like everyones pics and comments keep up the good work . "david" 36431... MORE
Nope, mine is still in the carport with carb/S.U. Fuel pump/regulator issues....:() Bob, Troutdale, OR now with wide white stripes... ....*.. <+ "Robert Webb" 36388... MORE
"'67...the best of years"! But the engines, Stewart.... they were sweet...just right. No emissions but a PCV system...and leaded fuel was still around so 10.0-1 or greater was NOT a problem! Ahhhh...for the good ole' days! :) Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 36373... MORE
WOW!! Check this out. _www.nexusmagazine.com/articles/Firestorm.html_ ( http://www.nexusmagazine.com/articles/Firestorm.html ) I wonder if this will work with the 100 MPG carb I have in the garage. ;-) Allen Hefner ajhsys@... 36354... MORE
I would like to relocate the windshield wiper motor on my 73 midget. It's on the left inner fender right now. I notice from pictures on Ed's web site that BE wiper motors are up next to the pedal box. Can I use a different cable and re-locate my motor? Anyone tried this? In the current position, it interferes with my Weber air cleaner. Robert Houston rbhouston@... 36304... MORE
Why not??? You're taking the belt to a reputable shop and not using needle and thread yourself I take it??? You got a (ships) sail-maker nearby....real strong stuff!! :): ) Cap'n Bob '60 Frog Simpson 4 pt. (crotch strap too small!:) "Robert E. Shlafer" 36230... MORE
IMHO, this is not a good idea. There are some things that a "Shade Tree Mechanic" can do, after all, I are one, but there are some parts to the LBC that might be better left to a "British Car Mechanic." As far as your list, Wouldn't a simple "I'll pay you $50-$100, you look it over, turn it over, try to start it, check brakes, etc, and 1. tell me what you think, and 2. give me an estimate as to what you think it needs, what the parts and labor to do will be, and if agreed... MORE
I have a bugeye with a 1098 enine. When I got the car I purchased the Haynes manual for sprites and midgets. It seems to give memostof the information I need. I was wondering if there was enough in the way of additional information or tips to make it worth buying the "Tuning the A Series Engine" book or one of the SU carbuerator books. Thanks Bob rlirwn@... 36186... MORE
Has anyone tried the modifications listed in the bl st manual? I mean adding twin hs4 SU carbs, a race distributor (part number C-27H7766), a head with 9.5:1 compression, and a free flow exhaust? The performance figures make this look tempting. Too bad I dont see anything about gas milege or emissions (in the unites staes this can be an issue. "gan5ub91179g" 36012... MORE
If it's a standard A+ head, the valves are 1.3" Inlet/1.15" Exhaust; or if it's from an MG Metro it should have had 1.4" inlets. With no other changes, your AAC needles should be somewhere close, or you could try ACE ones (a bit richer in the mid range but leaner at the top end), but in any event, a trip to the rolling road is well worthwhile to get the car set up. Make sure it's someone who knows SU carbs - you don't want to be paying for his time while he learns! David "David Jacobs" 36003... MORE
Big? How big? The Cooper S had 1.4 intake and 1.2 exhaust valves (1.3 and 1.15 are considered stock for "A" series engines) and it was very steetable with standard rockers and the correct jetted carbs. What you gained was topend grunt without losing much in the lower rev range. "Jim" 36001... MORE
I was a member over a year ago and had to drop out. Well I'm back and this time I need to seel my 1973 Midget. If anyone is close to Las Vegas and wants it, it's going cheap at $750. I need to sell it due to my retiring from the Air Force and moving back to Louisiana. Here is what I have in it: It runs good (28+ miles per gallon in town) 5 new tires with less than 2000 miles 3 year old top no broken glass Vynil coverd seats Cassete radio (not installed) Weber carb... MORE
Could look for a Maestro 1275 engine, yep I know its FWD and transverse.. but its not like a mini engine.. the gearbox is bolted to the end so its probably the very similar to a midget 1275 once you get past the single SU Stewart "Ford Prefect" 35827... MORE
Chuck...do not be mislead by compression ratios which could be had back when leaded ("manly") octanes were available . Today's unleaded "garbage" octanes require a little more thought in this di rection, assuming a cast iron head and the ignition advance curve you're probably working with, along with a "mild" cam with relatively little duration which will favor maximum "trapping" of the combustion gases in favor of the low end of the useable rpm spectrum (torque.. as in street application). With aluminum heads you can go about a point higher than with cast iron, all else being equal. Also,... MORE
Sure a cold box is worth fitting, Jens. Not a new car out there that hasn't got one. Jacques LaClainche's website shows his BE with a cold air box. Looks like a sealed "mailbox" with holes cut in the appropriate place for the carbs and a "heater" hose ducted to the front by the grille (but on the carb. side). Very practical, very functional. For cold wx, you'd just leave the hose IN the engine compartment, short of it's duct in the grille area. Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 35679... MORE
I recently had the pleasure of having dinner with Kevin and Cathy Valentine in Pennsylvania. Over dinner we of course discussed Spridgets, and I told him how I was having trouble with mine running rich and was contemplating a change of carburetors. Kevin pointed out that most carb problems are electrical and asked if I had checked the points. Well, I still haven't but I did decide to make them a moot problem by ordering a Pertronix Ignitor. The question is, I replaced the stock coil on my 73 Midget, 1275 last year. Will this coil function well with... MORE
Hi Guys, I decided that I do not plan on using my Hardtop for my 73 midget. It need to be cleaned since it sat in a desert for 17 years, the rear plastic window is pretty shot, and the rubber is ugly, but there are no cracks, etc. I have it in storage now, and I would love to have it go for a good cause. If anyone is interested, i can walk to my neighbors house where I have it stored and take photos. I also know of some guy like 5 blocks from my house that... MORE
any midget expert out there know how to obtain electronic or magnetronic (hall effect?)ignition for 1977 1500 midget with lucas 45d4 distributor? i.e. lumenition or similar, mgoc price =A3135.any useful websites? i"m skint after fitting u/leaded head and kingpin assy and clutch slave cylinder so any cheapo ideas would be welcome. thanks in anticipation. "edwardhinchliffe" 35558... MORE
Hello friends, I am in the middle of a rebuild of my Midget's Weber DGV. This is far from the first DGV I have rebuilt but this time I thought I would share a few pictures and a couple of references. Here is what Pierce Manifolds recommended for the DGV 5A in the Midget 1500 application: Jetting for DGV 5A main 140/135 e-tube F50/F6 air corr 155/160 idle 55/60 needle & seat 200 My carb is correct except for the air corrector jets. My car has installed a 165 primary air corrector jet and a 160 secondary corrector jet.... MORE
