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I am having a bit of a clear out. All the following items are from 1972 1275 Midget which I have rebuilt for Hill Climbing Pair of Seats with head rests new covers serviceable but really need refurbishing 5 Rostyle wheels original distributor pair of SU on manifold with air cleaner original steering wheel front brakes callipers, new discs, hardly touched green stuff pads anti tramp bars complete kit effectively unused Make me an offer Based in Leeds UK "Peter Whittle" 25549... MORE
Kevin.... With respect to the picture of the crankcase ventilation system at the carbs.....the system does not appear to be "pinched off" from what I THINK I see. The large hose from the front cannister on the timing chain cover appears to be clamped to a non-stock "Tee" fitting from which smaller hoses are clamped that run to the crankcase emissions breather ports on each carb. Perfectly normal set-up assuming these hoses are not clogged. Take the hose off at the cannister, clean the end and blow through it. With some restriction (the "exhaust holes" in the carbs are... MORE
If the knocking is coming from the rear of the car what you are hearing is the fuel pump which is located in back in the wheel well. The time to worry is when you do not hear it at least on occasion. When you turn the key on it starts pumping and stops when the float bowls are full then it turns off and on as necessary to supply gas to the carburetors. A tip while on the subject . . . sometimes with older Spridgets, especially after sitting for a long time, the surface of the contacts... MORE
If you can pull the tube oout with the nut tightened, that is your problem. There should be a ferrule in the end of the tube that the nut holds but compression. You probably need news fuel feed lines between the jet and the float. I think the jet comes with these as an assembly. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25528... MORE
"I think the jet comes with these as an assembley" They most certainly do Gerard, together with the little rubber washer/grommet, etc. as I just replaced a jet myself, today. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25529... MORE
I finally got fuel flow up to the carbs but the front jet is leaking where it threads into the float bowl. I tightened it but it still leaks the tube can be pulled out of the nut even when tight. Is there anything that can be done or is it time for new jets? This engine better start right away or else! Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25526... MORE
Hello all, Well, I fired her back up today. Put my hand over the oil filler hole, and let it idle. There was no significant vaccuum and no significant air pressure. The valve cover filled about an inch and a half full of oil, with oil coming up the push rod tubes. I'm sure it would have kept going , but I shut it down. As I mentioned earlier, it sounds fine once it gets warmed up. It isn't missing and has good oil pressure. (although the oil gauge doesn't work (Problem #312 of 1067...get to that one later...)... MORE
Well Don May.... The crankcase takes incoming air from the charcoal cannister through a "graduated orifice" feed tube mounted on the valve cover, assuming the valve cover has a non-vented oil filler cap. The "exhaust" side would be the hose coming from the cannister on the timing case cover which vents into the intake system via individual hoses which feed a "graduated orifice" within each carburator. In this instance, while the engine is running, Kevin removed the oil filler cap and noticed no vacuum or pressure. So even though Kevin states the individual hoses to each carb appear pinched,... MORE
Just checked my Haynes which is what I'd have followed during my rebuild. No specific order to retightening but what it does day is do the bolts up finger tight then rotate the crankshaft a few revolutions before torqueing down. The other thing to check is that you don't have any grit under the shells. However as all is fine with the old TWs then it sounds like the only problem is the new TWs are a bit thick. When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like... MORE
When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like that may overheat those new TWs and they might finish up in a worse state than your known good ones. Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for... MORE
Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for them to be too tight. Are you using standard or overside thrust washers? They are marked for size on the backside. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25439... MORE
Jim C. My factory maint. man. shows crankshaft end float (taken at the main bearing) at .001-.003 Main Caps @ 60 Rod Caps @ 35 Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25441... MORE
Martyn.... BTDT. You poor ba$ta-d....and I speak from experience. What we did was pull the tank, pull the sender, find youthful human being with really thin arms (my mechanic's 16 year old was on hand, thank God) and get in there with a long needle nose pliers (or whatever) and wrench the clogged up filter netting right off the steel fuel feed line. This will take a lot of patience to finally get a grip on the stupid thing to the extent you have the leverage to disloge it from it's pipe, unless you get lucky...which I hope you... MORE
Check to see if the hose from the top of the oil separator canister on front of the timing chain cover to the carburetors is clogged up and if the two small inlet pipes where the hoses connect at the carburetors are not clogged up. Spray a little carburetor cleaner in them. Don "Don May" 25419... MORE
"the 45 has always had a flat spot" Well, a "tendency" toward this for sure, though. Not mine! :) It came with the Weber 6" long intake manifold to begin with, and the length of the intake manifold makes all sorts of difference to the whole application in all sorts of ways. Generally speaking, longer is better for the low end. It also came with the smaller 3.5 aux. venturi's unlike some other kits which come with larger 4.5's, the smaller aux. venturi allowing earlier commencement of flow from the main system during acceleration, thus shortening the period of... MORE
Well it's about time. My 71 MG is back and refurbed. While it was apart for a new clutch disc, why not put a Datsun 5 speed in it? 266 cam, lite lifters, right springs, new shells on the still-standard crank, Cooper S 163 head with rimflows and ported, 45DCOE, and LCB, with a Kenlowe to cut cooling losses. Cooper S dizzy. I want a merit badge for making the Rivergate kit work. It is not easy for one who must follow directions literally. Much more difficult than it needs to be, for me, anyway. I know many listers... MORE
Guy W. Slower traffic staying right is the general idea but in moderate+ traffic it doesn't always work that way and it can become more a general free for all, most especially when 18 wheelers are thrown into the mix. This is theory which works until you come upon an entranceway with many cars merging, then you may find yourself forced into the middle lane in a situation wherein the traffic flow in the middle lane is doing 70 and you lack the power to merge left easily into THAT flow to make room in the right lane for... MORE
Well said, Don May... You hit the nail on the head..exactly spot on. This is the position I found myself in, more or less. Prior to knowing about the Datsun 5 speed, I attacked "the problem" by moving the whole rpm range upscale to 7-7.5k rpm by "Vizarding" a 1275 and making 4-4.5k rpm a comfortable cruising rpm. Supertuning the motor to take higher rpm is not inexpensive... for it's operating range is just short of a track motor. Weber 45DCOE, bigger valves, prepared head, VP3 cam and 1.5 rollers, big bore LCB and large diameter free-flow exhaust system... MORE
Dear Listers, After tinkering with my '75 Midget all summer I finally have the beast to some standard of reliability having (knock on wood) cured the lean running problem. My next endeavor is to swap the Stromberg for a pair of SU's and to replace the clutch due to weak springs, I hope. I will probably lighten the flywheel while I'm at it. Since I will be pulling the engine anyway why not address the unsatisfactory gearbox as well. Running 4000 rpm at 65 mph doesn't sound good to me. Unfortunately the 1500 engine doesn't have a nice swap... MORE
Went to the DMV and took my Purple 73 rwa off non-op today then took it out for its first freeway speed run. Was hoping a good run would cure my transmission problem I posted about before . . . can start it in first and reverse and runs fine in first and reverse, however once I drive and shift up to second and above then stop I cannot get it back into first or reverse . . . gears grind (yes, I do shift into second first, then try first) I do not want to force for fear... MORE
The top bracket looks like the strap that goes between the bulkhead and the dash, to keep it from bowing out when you pull smartly on your choke cable . The bottom one is one I have not seen before. Brad "Brad Fornal" 25005... MORE
So what is the preferred solution to tyres that rub on the flexible brake hoses on full lock? I have steel braided hoses so they are not getting damaged, but I don't like the idea of the "snatching and tugging" that must be taking place when this happens. I wondered if I could rig up a lightweigt spring (like a throttle spring) to pull the hose back clear of the tyre. Anyone had this problem and sorted it? Guy "Guy Weller" 24967... MORE
...might be on subject...but not 'specific' to the conversation.... I've been studying (extensively) the various emissions re-breather systems used on the various years and models of LBC's. Why? Trying to come up with a system that won't dump oil all over the back of the intake valves. Any of you that have ever pulled a head off an engine that has had a bit of blow-by due to worn rings, knows what I mean. The vapors (due to crankcase pressure) being discussed here, dump all that oil into the intake and end up burning onto, and crudding up the... MORE
I've just recently bought an 1967 Austin Healey Sprite that was in need of some TLC, however I've also since found out it's got a few parts 'missing'! One of those was the flame trap that connects through flexible hoses the block to the inlet manifold (it doesn't have the 'Y' connector). Since fitting the missing part it now won't run properly. It has started to kick out loads of white smoke & a little bit of blue. We've compression tested the engine, fitted a new head gasket & set up the carbs so they are fine. We've now... MORE
Hello Folks Thought I would toss this out for a little help. I have a 1971 MG Midget 1275 I got in last night to take a drive and she really had a hard time having any get up and go. (she would go about 70 but it had a hard time to get there) So I checked the oil in the dash pots that was good So then I checked to see if maybe the choke was stuck open looks good So then I took a look at the fuel filter I took it off and blow it... MORE
