MAIN
Carburetor
Previous Page | Next Page
I recently picked up a couple sets of ratty HS2 carbs from a guy. I bought them to replace mine because the float body nipples on my carb body were broken off. So more about my question... I noticed after cleaned these carbs that there is a copper tube that appears to be a vent or something. It's behind the slide and comes out @ a 45 degree angle. Looks to be about 1/4" OD tubing? It's on both carbs.. See attached. My original carbs do not have these vents on them.. Jeremy Loukinas 37306... MORE
re: Rich running after installing weber. Well, I didn't touch the Weber DGV, but I did lower the fuel pressure regulator down from 2.5 to 1.5 and the idle is MUCH better - remarkably so. After doing this, I remembered reading that these were low pressure carbs, but I had no idea it would make such a difference. Thx to all those that replied. "Will and Lyudmila" 37297... MORE
Not to mention missing carb, and bits of carpet missing. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37289... MORE
Yep!! There you are! And at the going price considering the MiniMania/Hans Pedersen kits. More low/mid-range torque for street fun. Having driven a stock '67 1275 Spridget using 6psi boost, I can honestly say it is worth the 3k assuming you are go ing to keep the car. Probably one of the most worthwhile upgrades besides the Datsun 5 speed for those who want true "quick". 6psi is the lowest amount of "effective" boost (torque/heat) without unduly loading stock parts providing you don't over-rev the motor and resist the urge to constantly take it to the redline, bearing in... MORE
Just some off the wall thoughts. $3000 is a lot of money, and unless your engine is already in perfect condition, you would probably want to do an engine rebuild too, so you're at maybe $4500 ready to rock 'n roll. You could do a reworked head, cam, bigger carb, overbore, have less money in the job, just as much HP, and probably better bottom end torque. It like like a stock engine with the Moss SC should produce something like 90 HP. Lot of money for that, say $180 per HP, and that's without any clutch or rear... MORE
Better off with a proper exust maniaflod allegedly with the 1500. Has yours got an oil cooler?, I have given in to the doom sayers and bought one! out of interest what is your oil pressure at idle? With regars tothe carb, is it leak from the top or bottom of the float chamber? or from the botom of the jet? Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37258... MORE
I have just replaced the head gasket on my 1500cc Midget, so I was quite chuffed to say the least when it turned over after only a few attempts. However I was not so happy when I noticed at lot of petrol was coming from the bottom of the rear float. I have twin SU carbs. I know that this was dripping a tiny amout of petrol before I changed the gasket but it is now flooding out. I realise extra fuel will have got in while I was turing the engine over to set the rocker gaps, but... MORE
WEBER DCOE "air" screws They are not air screws. They are volume screws, the mixture for the idle circuit having been pre-set by your choice of idle (air/fuel combo) jet. 1.5 turns "out" is merely a starting point for setting. You may find your particular choice of idle jet runs best at only 1 turn out or even less. If you cannot find a setting which will work, you will have to change the idle jet for a less rich (weaker) one which may either consist of a smaller fuel aperature OR same fuel aperature with a larger air... MORE
G'day all The thin sheet of ally will do nothing to stop conducted heat - but then the original heat shield will not either. In fact, unless you put an electric cool suit around the float bowls, NOTHING will stop the conducted heat. There might be things that will slow it down, but nothing will stop it. Like rust and Kroil, it creeps. The ally will however reflect the radiant heat. Try it, it works. We have done it a few times, mostly on race cars at the circuit when there wasn't anything else around. And Jim, I would... MORE
Does anybody know about setting the (2) air screws on a Weber dcoe sidedraft carb on my '75 Midget 1500, it's running rich, i put in new plugs & wires, i aqquired the car with the carb. on it. the screws are 1 1/2 turn out. It has headers and has been de-smogged. It has a points distributer also. Also i took the spedo cable off because the neadle was 'hopping' and oiled it, now it doesn't work, any idea?? Thank you. "hdsteveg" 37228... MORE
I guess I wasn't clear. I meant to cement shiny Aluminum foil to the back side of a regular heat shield to increase the amount of heat reflected away from the carbs. Bob A simple insulation trick would be to take some contact cement and slather the "hot" side of the heat shield and then press and roller on some aluminum foil, shinny side out. That would increase the reflectivity of the shield and only cost about $0.02 USD. Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 37217... MORE
G'day all The MGB heat shield will work, after you cut it in half, but it might not be easy to find one that the owner will part with. They might prefer to sell the manifold, carbies, heat shield etc as a complete unit. Mini Cooper S had 1.5" SUs as an option, and their heat shields were actually two pieces with a bridge joining them that also held the return springs. You could use the appropriate side of this set-up if only you could find them! I can only supply them new, as a pair, for around $35... MORE
There is a poly-block that goes between intake manifold and carb prior to the heat shield/carb. And I recall there was (asbestos-type) insulation on the shield of my PO'd MGA's. I do not recall this on my later post-60/70 Spridgets or MGB's. Not on my Frog restored by PO, either. Of course, any Home Despot will carry something which can be used along wit h modern adhesives that will do the trick. Or heat reflective paint/coating. Beyond higher engine compartment temps in warmer weather which translate into higher induction air temps and gener ally less peppy performance under these... MORE
Is this leaded or unleaded, Jim?? I'm running tuned, hi-compression tyres so "suitable" is of extreme importance you see. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37175... MORE
The heat shields are just sheet metal with no insulation. They block some radiated heat from reaching the carbs, and also deflect hot air so they work okay. Certainly not a bad idea to insulate, though. Oh, the also keep leaking fuel from dripping directly on the hot exh manifold. "joe blxfstz" 37172... MORE
Great idea Bob Does that mean that the car would get lighter as you added more helium? I mean, if we could get 2000 psi in there it might float like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang? "Enquiring minds must know." avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 37160... MORE
2000psi ????? Hmmmmmm might be easier than drilling holes in the car to lighten everything! Could Happen! You could substitute Hydrogen for the Helium (which is even lighter) and then adjust the carbs to run on Hydrogen from the tires, and the further you drive, the lighter you get!!!!! Whadda concept! Cheers, Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 37165... MORE
The easiest way is to take a kitchen meat thermometer, and take off the radiator cap, start car and when the temp gage needle starts to go up, put meat (or candy)(or whatever) thermometer in top of radiator and watch the temp on both. They should be close to the same. You can take a sheet of newspaper and cover the radiator to block the air from the fan to allow it to start to get close to 212 degrees as the upper end of the test. I think this is easier than removing the gage and sender and... MORE
The gauge can be calibrated Jim for zero and span. I used a pot of boiling water for the high end, just place the temp bulb in it. I keep it boiling with the propane torch to ensure 212 deg. The needle can be removed from the gauge and replaced in the correct place if need be. If the span is out the small linkage within the gauge can be tweaked very lightly to make a difference. I used fresh air for the low end point. Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 37159... MORE
Dave Fitted the exhaust manifold but it is hard up against the chassis rail, will show you. I am convinced the engine runs easier and purrs along smoother. I was going to put K&N air filters on, I wanted the one that spans the two carbs as I like the look of it but an owner I met at a show said they just made it noisier and no better so he reverted to the original ones but kept the sports manifold. You can have a look at my steering wheel problem and anyone got an oil cooler for... MORE
Terry Hope you can make it since it will be a great day with even more cars than last year, also Stondon is a great venue (take a look at their web site for details and directions. DON'T TAKE ANY NOTICE OF THE WEATHER FORECAST THE SU ALWAYS SHINES ON OUR EVENTS. My reg is GFR 882D and it will probably be parked under the gazebo. How did you get on with the sports manifold, did it fit OK in the end and has it made a noticeable improvement? Best regards and see you on Sunday Dave "David Dixon"... MORE
If the car has been sitting around for years, especially with some fuel in the tank, the sender tends to absorb fuel, making it heavier, so it won't float. Or the linkage weakens with age, so the sender doesn't behave normally. I had this with my Mk1 Midget, but never did anything about it, as I always filled the tank after doing about 180-190 miles. I never ran out of petrol. Margaret South Lincolnshire (UK) "May you be in Heaven half an hour before the Devil knows you're dead" mmbrock88@... 37095... MORE
Cap'n The car cam with a ZS150. I transplanted a Spitfire 1300 carb/manifod setup. The original set up had a valve cover tube and a carb tube that connected to a charcoal canister along with the fuel vent tubing. The pro I had work on the car is good. His opinion is that I need negative pressure off the valve cover which between a 30 year old cannister and some suspect tubing connections I am not getting. Most of the original emmissions equipment was gone when I got the car. The motor is a fresh rebuild. Rob C Webfoot... MORE
Robbie.... I don't think the two are related. I think your motor has a case of "blow b y" of combustion gasses past the rings into the crankcase. I am not sure what emissions equipment you still have on your motor and do not "know" much about 1500's at all but, the feed from the charcoal cannister to the valve cover is intake air into the crankcase through a "graduated orifice" which normally works together with the "exhau st" side of this equation which feeds a graduated amount of crankcase gasses to the combustion chamber through a PCV valve... MORE
Folks, Am finally, after 6 years, getting to enjoy my LBC ('75 1500) but I still have some issues. Suggestions have been made and I was hoping group members might comment. After having my twin carb setup tweaked by a "pro" I started leaking oil out of the dipstick. Sealing the joint helped but has not cured the problem which seems to occur at sustained higher speeds and RPM's. It has been suggested that instead of running the valve cover breather tube to the charcoal cannister that I run it into the back of the air cleaner for better... MORE
