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The "longer" spark is supposed to lead to more complete combustion of the fuel/air mix which should be better for power and/or economy along with fewer emissions. Of course, for the "longer" spark, you need more "juice" to begin with..... :) Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 35606... MORE
Robert, Would be very interested in the new plug gap you get withthe hotter coil. I switched to a 40K volt coil in my 1500 but have left the spark gap stock. I am SOOOO iggerant about this stuff. Let me know if possible. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 35589... MORE
Jeff Boatright is correctomundo on wider spark plug gaps (PerTronix) "taking out" the next weakest link in the ignition system with respect to some Lucas rotors...BTDT. As I recall, anything over .028 "zapped" the normal Lucas rotor(s) without fail. The heftier, better quality rotors I got from Peter C. solved the problem....I am holding one in my hand as we speak....i t's a wop item...."Made in Italy" it says. Far as I know, Pete carries 'em for both 23/25 or 43/45 dizzies. Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 35588... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 35597... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 35565... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 35542... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 35540... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 35536... MORE
Mitch..IMHO.... if you are going to use the Judson, I would call APT and source the best quality valve they have to offer. Otherwise, unless you've got a hairy cam in there or are running 10.0-1 or a higher static compression ratio, standard quality/design should be fine normally aspirated. About oversized exhaust valves....many moons ago when the first 1275 Cooper S types came out, they went with a larger 1.4 intake valve and subsequently, went to a larger than stock exh.valve to "match", feeling this would give more powe r. It didn't. What it did do was lead to... MORE
of course, drum brakes can still be found on some serious performance machinery..... http://www.topgear.com/content/features/stories/mg_x15/02/ though I suppose these only have to work once then a long time before they're needed again unlike everyday cars. David "David Jacobs" 33636... MORE
Hello friends, I am in the middle of a rebuild of my Midget's Weber DGV. This is far from the first DGV I have rebuilt but this time I thought I would share a few pictures and a couple of references. Here is what Pierce Manifolds recommended for the DGV 5A in the Midget 1500 application: Jetting for DGV 5A main 140/135 e-tube F50/F6 air corr 155/160 idle 55/60 needle & seat 200 My carb is correct except for the air corrector jets. My car has installed a 165 primary air corrector jet and a 160 secondary corrector jet.... MORE
Welcome aboard, Jim... You've already recieved good answers to your questions so no need to further "go there" with one exception.... 145x13's can be hard to find these days, though your local Sears probably has them. 155X13's are easier to source (Town Fair and most others stock them) and will do just as well, while giving even better grip and fuel economy all else being equal (fewer revs per mile per hour) without nearly a gnat's eye change in ride quality. :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33627... MORE
Please forgive a Newbie's ignorance... I just joined this group as I just purchased a 1968 MG Midget. I'm now fumbling around trying to locate a few items I will be needing for the car. Here are two questions for you. 1) Where in the devil can I find 145SR13 tires and tubes?! Special Order, some place like Coker Tire. Check the classic tire dealers a t swap meets 2) Where can I find a decent hood and tonneau at a reasonable price? eBay!! I found a 67 tonneau and a white top for our 68 on eBay. 3)... MORE
Spridget people, Please forgive a Newbie's ignorance... I just joined this group as I just purchased a 1968 MG Midget. I'm now fumbling around trying to locate a few items I will be needing for the car. Here are two questions for you. 1) Where in the devil can I find 145SR13 tires and tubes?! 2) Where can I find a decent hood and tonneau at a reasonable price? 3) Where can I find a complete parts listing for the Midget? 4) Which shop manual is best and where do I buy one? Many thanks in advance.... Cheers!! Jim... MORE
Ah....I percieve, Jens! What they've provided is basically their road "performance" curve contained in their "Y" (yellow) commercially available dizzies. The chart they included is the actual advance curve contained within the distributor. This would be in "distributor degrees" Jens, at "distributor rpm". Double the figures in each case for engine rpm and advance available at the crank. Then add in the initial static timing recommendation (4-6 degrees) to the foregoing figures and you'll know how many degrees you are getting at the crank at any rpm, per their "static" timing recommendation. Now, the above is for academic interest... MORE
Thankyou, Jens.... I am going to assume based upon the information you gave them on compression ratio, they assume you know enough to use the highest legal (unleaded) octane commercially available and in Europe, this is 98RON as far as I know. Did they include any recommendation as to total timing or set-up? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33609... MORE
Jens.... They recurved it based upon the information you provided them on the spec of the motor/octane used?? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33604... MORE
Doesn't make any difference. You'll push fluid completely through the system anyway. the fluid path is the same, power boost or not. "joe blxfstz" 33599... MORE
This stand for HUGE American Car. I'm going to change the brake fluid on the 70 Impala, as it has no viscosity, and is black as swamp water. After I drain the master with a turkey baister, and add the new fluid, I will go for the wheel cylinders. The car has power brakes, so my question is, while bleeding the wheel cylinders, car running, or not running? TIA, Brad Brad Fornal 33595... MORE
Hi, I'm currently in the middle of stripping the rear axle on my '76 1500 midget. The brake drums are off, as are the shoes, slave cylinder and the half-shafts are out, im trying to get the bearing/hub section off so that I can get the backing plate from the brakes off the axle to clean it up and replace the bolts. What is the best way of doing this? Do I just need a 1" 7/8 spanner and just undo it or is there an easier way that I just haven't worked out yet? Thanks in advance Damien... MORE
Thanks Brad I have removed the covers and extracted the tappets and found two of them worn/pitted. The objective of the dismantling is to try and find a rattling noise that occurs on acceleration and deceleration - this is the first time I have taken an engine apart so it is a voyage of discovery....so you can expect more requests for help in the near future to appear on the web site! Thanks again for your assistance, Lee lparke12@... 33550... MORE
Thanks Paul. I have removed the covers and extracted the tappets and found two of them worn/pitted. The objective of the dismantling is to try and find a rattling noise that occurs on acceleration and deceleration - this is the first time I have taken an engine apart so it is a voyage of discovery....so you can expect more requests for help in the near future to appear on the web site! Thanks again for your assistance, Lee lparke12@... 33549... MORE
Hi Lee, If you found a couple of them pitted, then in all likelyhood, the camshaft is damaged. BTW, typically when you are removing tappets and there is no damage to them they sould go back into the same holes they came out of. No mix 'em up here!!. A rattle on acceleration and a rattle on deceleration, doesn't sound like a tappet noise. Tappets are under the same load, accelerating, decelerating, coasting, at idle, etc. That noise doesn't change much. Sounds like bearing problems. Mains and rods are suspect here. Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33551... MORE
Can anyone help please? I have a 1098cc MG engine in my 1961 Mk I Frogeye Sprite and have just removed the head for fault analysis for a rattling noise. The Haynes manual (page 37) states there are tappet covers but they are not identified in the exploded view of the engine. Can anyone help to identify where the covers are? and Is it possible to remove the tappets without removing the cam? Many thanks for your help Lee lparke12@... 33529... MORE
Correcto, James C.! The earlier Austin(?) racks used oil, the later (Spitfire?) racks used grease. I am not knowing when the changeover occurred but I am sure we will hear from more learned folk! :) You can use grease in the earlier racks, however, in cold weather, the steering will become more difficult in tight quarters. Skipping the "zerk" entirely, it is possible to reasonably fill each boot by undoing one of the clamps to the gaitor(s) and squirting in oil with an oil gun. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33518... MORE
