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Nigel... This needle does not show up anywhere in any of my literature on Series A engines, for rich, normal or lean categories, stock or modified. If your stock motor calls for an AN, then that is what I would use unless you've got logical good reason to use the recommended more rich or lean one for the application. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33156... MORE
Royce, an aftermarket SU carb kit manufacturer, has needles with letter/numbers like this in their kits. I suspect other kit makers do also. So far, I've found them to be pretty much what's needed in the cars that get these kits. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33157... MORE
Terry, This may be off topic, or it may not help at all, but an old VW trick solution to the 6 volt to 12 volt conversion with the wiper motor is to take a rheostat out of a wrecking yard. You know the headlight switch push pull and when you rotate it, it dims the dome light and the dash lights. Connect this to the wiper motor and then adjust (rotate) to any desired speed you want from fast to stop and anywhere in-between. Works great, is almost free and works on 6 or 12 volts. It may... MORE
Hi all, Is there a recommended torque setting for tightening down the nut on a front spindle to hold the disk brake rotor on? I have the old Brit Leyland ring-bound Spridget shop manual (circa 1970) and there's no torque spec in there. How tight is adequate, and how tight is too tight, i.e. shortening bearing life(?) or some other problem(?) Some background info for anyone patient enough to read - I've got the Frontline larger disc brakes installed, with all new wheel bearings, and yes, the bearing thrust orientations are correct. But seems like over the past year,... MORE
Nigel, I don't remember what your car is, But FWIW... I had a similar problem with my Bugeye, My car came disassembled and the fuel tank fiting was not included. By trial and leak, I found that (USA terms) a standard tubing thread, copper compression fitting works. V.B. says that the same fits 65-74, and that the same pipe nut also fits 75-79, so I would assume that this should work in your car. I used copper tubbing from gas tank to carbs, (1 1/2" :() ), which is not stock, but is easier to bend and doesn't rust.... MORE
Hi guys I'm just getting ready to put the fuel tank back on and on inspecting the fuel feed pipe that goes into the tank itself, I noticed it was pretty corroded and on inspection (er read bending) it broke! No big deal I suspected it was corroded beyond service I just wanted it confirmed! The pipe nut on the end look to be pretty serviceable as does the nipple/flare on the end of the pipe. Question - how is that nipple/flare attached to the pipe? Is it brazed on? glued? compression fitting? Can I reuse it or do... MORE
i have a 2.3 ford motor w/ 5 speed..would it be a good swap into my 1500 midget?..anybody care to comment? "stanley hill" 33127... MORE
Ok so I've got to the point on my restoration where I wanted today to see if my '72 RWA would fire up. But no, Turns over superb but there just ain't no spark I have a new coil, leads, distributer cap and rota arm, new plugs, starter solonoid and so on Turning the engine over with a plug out place against the block gives no spark. Tracing it all the way back to the coil and just having the coil lead against the block still gives no spark Help please....... The wireing of the low tension is too... MORE
Dave Back on line now. Yes I do. How easy would it be for me to drive up to you and swap over the manifolds. Practical or not? What tools would we need? How long to do the job? Waht should I do in advance like make sure the manifold bolts are not stuck fast. Soory for the delay will send my mitigating circumstances direct to you. Thanks Terry "terry.isherwood" 33101... MORE
Welcome Paul I'm in Central London with a Frogeye. I will check your website as soon as i've written this. I used to know a guy who lived in St Neots named David Wilson. Ring any bells? Gary L 1958 Frogeye+Rivergate 5 speed London "Gary Lazarus" 33032... MORE
I assume we are talking the 215 Buick/rover engine? That being the case the standard axel with the 3.7:1 diff and hardened halfshafts should be OK. as for the wheels I would be inclined to go for minilites or similar. Wires can cope with the power, (How many E-Types have you seen on anything else! V12s don't count 'cause they are too ugly) but Standard Midget or MGB wires I doubt will. MGC wires though might, but they are 15". TR5 PI wires may also cope Stewart "Ford Prefect" 32994... MORE
Even with 'only' a 'small' V8 I wouldn't even consider it as they'd be pinging spokes all the time! Unless maybe if they were 72 spoke wheels; even then, you'll be forever getting them rebuilt as they have a tendency to go out of true with just 65 bhp! If your friend's are 14", they are most likely from an MGB in which case I think they fit the Spridget splines, but then you have the problem of what size tyres to fit on them - if you don't want to go too much bigger on rolling radius, you'll... MORE
Horsepower is not the problem.... matter of "torque" most likely....for the whole driveline I would guess? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32992... MORE
Aw c'mon, "Pacbell" Bob! What was Bush gonna do in the next 5-10 minutes that wasn't already being done by the FAA and appropriate government agencies? Our president is not a king or a dictator, no matter what certain others might want you to think and our president isn't personally carrying flak guns or SAMS! Besides, like the SU carbs on our LBC, our government works interdependantly to a great extent. There exists reason to believe the appropriate Government agencies MIGHT have failed to respond in a timely and/or appropriate manner. This is being addressed. By the time Bush... MORE
Posted a picture of my new toy.I think I have most everything previous owner had screw up corrected. Time will tell. Everything works. installed Pertronix ing. Just to make it a little easer to tune. Only problem is 2nd gear. dose not make any noise or anything. shifts into gear smoothly. Will stay in gear on acceration but on deceleration it pops out of gear. Any suggestions, could this be an adjustment problem. Thanks Carl "electrabee" 32938... MORE
Non-engagement is the issue here, Mike. We were able to get some compression after we replaced the Master Cylinder, but not really enough to make the clutch work properly. It looks like we're going to try a new slave cylinder next...hopefully this will work. Ahhhh well...it looks like it's going to rain anyway:( (sigh) Lisanne:) "mckenzienewfs" 32935... MORE
Lisanne, Are you saying that the clutch will not disengage due to lack of hydraulic force/pressure or that it is permenatly disengaged. Duncan HHHhhhhh! Non-engagement is the issue here, Mike. We were able to get some compression after we replaced the Master Cylinder, but not really enough to make the clutch work properly. It looks like we're going to try a new slave cylinder next...hopefully this will work. Ahhhh well...it looks like it's going to rain anyway:( (sigh) Lisanne:) "Duncan Sinclair" 32937... MORE
Jeesh...the "Toyman" is literally falling apart here! Becoming a physical wreck long before his time. ( (Too many late nights, toking and drinking combined with weird sexual "gymnastics" and general "over-activity" I suspect?:) Anyway...the torque figures in the book for the head consist of two..."early" and "late" studs. I've always had the "late" studs and have always torqued to 50lbs. with the exception of my '74 Vizardized 1340 which ran 11.0-1, so we went to 60 on 10 studs, and 30 for the front "bolt". SLIGHT seepage of oil between the head and block is really nothing new or... MORE
"We are in the process of relocating.... sporadic cell service" Ah...a "serious" matter, then. I'd go with Biff Jones idea for sure. A second distributor...all set up, spare spark plugs, spare fan belt, and a length of spare hose and ignition wire, spare fuel pump, and necessary small bag of tools. The all important flashlite of course and a portable starter/charger as well if you're really out there in the sticks. Of course... what will serve you best is a quality scheduled, preventive maintenance program (and the "right attitude" towards being "situationally aware" in terms of survival in the... MORE
FINALLY getting enough strength in my arms again to work on the car. Pulled ligament in right shoulder, and tennis elbow on left arm pretty much decimated my sex life. Um wait, that is another e group. Anyway, I think I have found the root cause of my oil problem. I put the head on, torque it down with my trusty Taiwanese click wrench to 42 pounds. They final torque at 50, so for shits and giggles, I got my $5 flea market Craftsman beam wrench. Believe it or not, my Taiwanese wrench was not torquing as tight as... MORE
Margaret The gathering -was a reasonable success with a turnout of 16 topless Spridgets on a brilliant hot and sunny day. I think we had almost every MK and model including a supercharged Arkley, a Sebring Sprite, an isle of white frogeye, the standard frogeye featured in July's Practical classics, a K series car and a five speed conversion. It was a great day enjoyed by all, it is a pity a few more of you couldn't make it (maybe next year). I think all those who attended were Midget and Sprite club members and the event is described... MORE
Bob, Do you use the Petronix Hall effect system? Which if I am not mistaken, still uses the mechanical and vacuum advance that the stock points system used, is that right? Chris "Chris" 32822... MORE
David, The A+ Dizzy needs some simple modifications. The shaft length on the A+ dizzy is slightly shorter. To get it to work you need to grind / turn about 1/4" off the thickness of the top flange of the collar that locates the drive shaft in position. Then you need to either file the main hole in the clamp bigger to fit the dizzy body, or turn a little off the dizzy until the clamp fits. The A+ dizzy comes with a different clamp - a forked affair but you don't use that. The end result on mine... MORE
OK, I have a new Petronix for my 73 Midget. In putting it on, though technically I don't need to remove it, I will be pulling the distributor out to clean it really good. My question, is it "keyed" like on my "B" where it only goes back in 1 way, or will I need to mess with timing (tdc on 1 and all that crap)? Regards, TJ "TJ Tryon, Jr." 32834... MORE
"Yes" and "yes", Chris. See if the supplier has the later improved "PerTronix II" rather than the earlier "PerTronix" (aka "PerTronix I", so to speak) for your model # distributor, Chris, should you decide to go this route. The "II" incorporates a sytem which electronically adjusts dwell and provides for a stronger spark at the higher rpms, as compared to that provided by the earlier PerTronix units. Either will work just fine though. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32823... MORE
