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Stewart, What size tyres do you have? This will obviously affect the revs per mile, but never fear cos http://www.f-body.org/gears/ has a handy mph/revs calculator. On 145x13 tyres, the factory quoted 16.4 mph per 1000 revs, which equates to 4268 rpm David 37342... MORE
The crank pulley on my 1968 1275 engine has two identical marks, about 10 degrees apart. Which one is correct for ign timing? "joe blxfstz" 37343... MORE
Stewart, If I recall, my 1500 shop manual gives 16 mph/1000 rpm in 4th with a 3.9. I remember the number 'cause at 70 mph I am NOT comfortable with the kind of revs required! Thread locker works great! Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37340... MORE
I finally have my 1500 back on the road and am able to drive it agian after 16 years of having it in bits. I have a number of questions, some are 1500 only and some will be relavnt to late 1275. First one, What RPM is 60MPH? My car is alagedly giving 60MPH at 4K RPM in 4th gear, given I was on the motorway keeping up with traffic and overtaking some of it I am not convinced it is reading right! at points it was reading close to 70, others lower than 60, but the revs remained... MORE
David.... ..the "tubes" are not necessarily a tip off to fixed or biased needles on the HS2's.... Fr'instance.... my carbs have the tubes (which I have blocked off since I am running well v ented as I prefer not having oil vapors in the combustion process to the extent p ossible) and yet.....use fixed needles. Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37336... MORE
G'day Jeremy Your car probably had a PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventillation) valve on the inlet manifold, connected via a rubber hose to the engine breather. When you had your foot off the throttle, the partial vacuum in the inlet manifold helped to reduce the pressure in the sump, thus (in theory if seldom in practice) minimising oil leaks out of the rear main bearing. This PCV valve was later deleted, and the hose from the engine breather went to a plastic Y-piece and then via two short rubber tubes to these pipes on the carbies. You have two options.... MORE
Jeremy... these "tubes" feed graduated (specifically sized) orifices through which crankase gasses are fed into the combustion process in a measured amount, off the "flame arrestor/oil vapor separator (through appropriate hoses and plastic "T" fit ting) mounted on the timing chain cover. These make up the "exit" or "exhaust" side of the PCV system on engines so equipped, the "inlet" side of the equation being a filtered plastic oil filler cap on the "early" cars or a feed tube into the valve cover (again, through a "graduated orifice) from the charcoal cannister on later emissions vehicles equipped with closed... MORE
"we think turbocharging is the way forward" Most likely is, if someone can come up with a "variable" waste gate for both low and high end and a nice, "flat" torque curve.... and have no fear....somebody will!! :):) And of course, intercooling of the charge is a real nice thing to have for obvious reasons. The great thing with supercharging is "immediate" low/mid-range torque for the basically stock street car....in the order of a 40% with a "gentle" (on the motor) 6psi. IOW, (high) revs are not required, which for our 3 main bearing applications is a blessing. A... MORE
Yep!! There you are! And at the going price considering the MiniMania/Hans Pedersen kits. More low/mid-range torque for street fun. Having driven a stock '67 1275 Spridget using 6psi boost, I can honestly say it is worth the 3k assuming you are go ing to keep the car. Probably one of the most worthwhile upgrades besides the Datsun 5 speed for those who want true "quick". 6psi is the lowest amount of "effective" boost (torque/heat) without unduly loading stock parts providing you don't over-rev the motor and resist the urge to constantly take it to the redline, bearing in... MORE
Interesting thoughts. However, I would think that a SC would provide better bottom end torque and drivability. I was thinking that $3000 is alot of money but later (when a rebuild is required) you could drop the compression ratio and up the boost for serious performance. I'm anxious to hear feedback from people who install the kit before shelling out $3000. trevorwj@... 37266... MORE
Just some off the wall thoughts. $3000 is a lot of money, and unless your engine is already in perfect condition, you would probably want to do an engine rebuild too, so you're at maybe $4500 ready to rock 'n roll. You could do a reworked head, cam, bigger carb, overbore, have less money in the job, just as much HP, and probably better bottom end torque. It like like a stock engine with the Moss SC should produce something like 90 HP. Lot of money for that, say $180 per HP, and that's without any clutch or rear... MORE
I have just replaced the head gasket on my 1500cc Midget, so I was quite chuffed to say the least when it turned over after only a few attempts. However I was not so happy when I noticed at lot of petrol was coming from the bottom of the rear float. I have twin SU carbs. I know that this was dripping a tiny amout of petrol before I changed the gasket but it is now flooding out. I realise extra fuel will have got in while I was turing the engine over to set the rocker gaps, but... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 37222... MORE
The Organization Of Spridget Handymen in Transit got together yesterday to swap out Larry Macy's engine. Larry got a rebuilt (A wedding present? How thoughtful.) and it was about time to do the deed. Kevin and Rob Valentine, Phil Nase (?), Bill Gilroy and I showed up at Larry's. I understand that Frank Clarici had some problems on the way back from Carlisle so he couldn't make it. I'm sure Frank will fill us in. First we pulled the old engine and tranny, then Kevin and Larry timed the new cam and finished the reassembly. The rest of us... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 37214... MORE
Wait until you get it apart before you make any decision. If you're lucky it may be just a clutch problem, like the center broke out of the disc. Or maybe the flywheel bolts sheared off; although it sounds like a broken trans input shaft, which isn't too terribly serious. You can rebuild yours, or possibly find a good used one for a few hundred dollars, plus $200 for a new clutch set and related parts. Or you can spend the big bucks for a Datsun 5- speed. If you go the Datsun route, be sure to get a... MORE
There is a poly-block that goes between intake manifold and carb prior to the heat shield/carb. And I recall there was (asbestos-type) insulation on the shield of my PO'd MGA's. I do not recall this on my later post-60/70 Spridgets or MGB's. Not on my Frog restored by PO, either. Of course, any Home Despot will carry something which can be used along wit h modern adhesives that will do the trick. Or heat reflective paint/coating. Beyond higher engine compartment temps in warmer weather which translate into higher induction air temps and gener ally less peppy performance under these... MORE
Is this leaded or unleaded, Jim?? I'm running tuned, hi-compression tyres so "suitable" is of extreme importance you see. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37175... MORE
Before you do anything drastic, maks sure you didn't twist off an axle shaft! (or u joint for that matter, but not likely, they make more noise). Almost same symptoms but a ton easier to fix. I would be pissed if I pulled the engine and tranny and found it was just fine. Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 37192... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 37184... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 37179... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 37177... MORE
1964 R60/2 1968 MG Midget 1976 R90/6 1990 K100LT **Don't underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.** Jim Johnson 37174... MORE
The easiest way is to take a kitchen meat thermometer, and take off the radiator cap, start car and when the temp gage needle starts to go up, put meat (or candy)(or whatever) thermometer in top of radiator and watch the temp on both. They should be close to the same. You can take a sheet of newspaper and cover the radiator to block the air from the fan to allow it to start to get close to 212 degrees as the upper end of the test. I think this is easier than removing the gage and sender and... MORE
The gauge can be calibrated Jim for zero and span. I used a pot of boiling water for the high end, just place the temp bulb in it. I keep it boiling with the propane torch to ensure 212 deg. The needle can be removed from the gauge and replaced in the correct place if need be. If the span is out the small linkage within the gauge can be tweaked very lightly to make a difference. I used fresh air for the low end point. Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 37159... MORE
