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My guess would be "Yes", Bob... With ALCOHOL/water injection. Stock HC 1275's run only 8.8-1 and the Turbo Metros ran higher. They also had forged pistons but the stock Spridget piston while cast, is a pretty strong item as they take low pressure supercharging (with appropriate 100RON gasoline) without a problem. This would be up to 7psi. Intercooling makes a big difference but alcohol/water really "brings back" the leaded 100+RON octanes of yesterday. This stuff injected in appropriate amounts really cools down the combustion process. The Turbo Metro head uses the larger 1.4 intake valves I think. For more... MORE
I tried to start the beast after many years and have no spark. I have put new points in and gapped them to spec, checked for voltage at the dizzy- 12 volts, checked the primary windings on the coil - low resistance, the wires all show continuity from end to end. My most likely suspect is the coil since I'm skeptical of the resistance readings, should have had some shouldn't it? Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25817... MORE
"insurance"....that's the operative word here, Nigel. Kelly...how about a call to someone like Hagerty or www.collectorcarins.com See what they have to say about this? They insure them so they ought to know or possibly can point you in the right direction for information your insurance company would consider valid. Visit www.rivergate5speed.com for a valuation on a newly rebuilt mild performance street motor, also? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25804... MORE
the engine needs rebuilding at the moment as it burns a little oil when reved out of gear - slightly blue, i dont think i will be able to turbo it at the moment because im 20 (= stupid insurance), so would like a build which is a good investment for power later down the road and i think turboing is a good, reliable (cheapish) way to this any ideas on how to do this wisely without wasting (too much) money? has anyone tried avonbar self build kits, are these hard to put together? cheers Rob "Robert EADES" 25775... MORE
If it did it would be the first turbo lump to have a higher compression than the NASP version. Forgot to say the pistons are Forged not cast. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 25772... MORE
This edition of the no-frills roadster will put driver thrills ahead of outright performance - just like the 1961 original. 1961 original? interesting I might mention that the PA, PB, TA,TB, TC,TD and TF were all midgets and I am sure there were a few before the PA as well. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 25770... MORE
Turbo head is not very different to the standard 1275 head. You will need the turbo pistons though. This will lower the compression ratio. they are also forges rather than cast and as such stronger Stewart "Ford Prefect" 25769... MORE
if i was to use a metro turbo on my midget, changed to a turbo head and used and intercooler and water injection would i be able to use the standard compression ratio or would this melt the engine? cheers Rob "Robert EADES" 25764... MORE
found this online ad thought i would pass it on..i have a picture of the ca =3D=0D r in my pict folder (62 midget) quote: "The string-back gloves are off... MG Rover is aiming to knock its rivals f =3D=0D or six with a sensational reinvention of the Midget. Inspired by one of the most successful cars the firm has ever built, the dr =3D=0D op-top is aimed at the likes of the Ford Streetka and Smart Roadster - both of which were revealed to international acclaim last =3D=0D year. Other rivals include the forthcoming Volkswagen Polo Spyder and... MORE
The Morris minor engine will bolt straight in and sit on the original mountings as log as you still have them! However there are some minor (?) differences, but very few of these will prevent the car form driving. You will have to fit an electric fuel pump as the original 948 had an AC mechanical pump driven from the crank shaft, the Morris minor had an SU electric pump, and so the block will not have the hole in the side to fit the mechanical pump. The minor engine will be one of three sizes. 803cc in which... MORE
"My loose change on the subject" David C. ...... You said it better than I ever could.... exactly so. Like you, I hate to see it happening. In what other country could I have gone to work and put myself through school to become a professional pilot? I love this place but.....in terms of quality.....I'm afraid that during my lifetime it's been all slowly downhill I am very sorry to say. I mean, I've had it pretty good but...so many others (and this number is increasing) haven't. The middle is no longer the vast majority....it is the poor class... MORE
didn't the Metro Turbo have a 9.4:1 compression ratio? David "David Jacobs" 25771... MORE
Not to worry, Robert.... Liability insurance is getting so expensive that a lot of Doctors either are, or will be getting out of the business momentarily, anyway. And this is no joke, believe me. Just another example of the general decline of "quality of life" here in the good old USA due to whatever reasons one cares to choose, inclusive of gov't. becoming an "occupation" rather than a "public service" with respect to our Senators & Reps.. I'm no fan of Hillary but one must give credit where credit is due...she saw this along with other problems of this... MORE
Got a '75 1500 hundred. There's no spark from the coil. I've got voltage to the distributor through the primary circuit (or at least to the last connector going into the distributor). There seems to be a problem with the ballast resistor in that it gets very hot and doesn't seem to step down from 12v to 7v as it should. I've tried three different coils, but still no spark. This is probably an embarrassingly simple problem, but I'm totally stumped. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks in advance, Rich "rohanley" 25691... MORE
Chris I's probably not worth swapping engines. I would put a Weber DGV on the 1500 and enjoy. If you really want to work on the car you can put a double row timing chain, new thrust washer, a rocker oiler and you can fit 1275 cam bearings to a 1500. A lot less work than swapping engines. and a perfectly respectable engine. And you could recover part of the cost by selling the 1275. I take a lot of crap from the MG orthodoxy, but I race my '76 1500 "Spitget", No major failures yet, knock on wood.... MORE
Chris, Welcome to the MG world. I have a '75 Midget witht the 1500 Triumph drivetrain so I can shed some light on the subject. The 1500 motor is strong and torquey. It gives reasonalbe performance even in the gutless, smog-choked years it was installed. For most uses of the car, the 1500 is great. The 1275 is an MG engine and a pretty good one. It revs higher, snarls instead of rumbling and is very eager to accept upgrades and really become a screamer. For semi-serious and serious performance driving, autocross, road racing or balls out engine building,... MORE
Chris... I have no personal experience with the 1500 motor. Only the prior Series A 1098 and 1275, and damn little with the 1098! However, it is generally accepted by most that the Series A 1275 is a more bulletproof (tougher) engine than it's later Spitfire 1500 factory replacement, as well as being far more "tuneable". However, from everything I've heard from others (on this list) that do own and drive stock 1500 motors, they perform just fine in normal street driving. Only complaint I've heard mechanically (and I've heard this argued) is that as the crank wears and... MORE
Bree... If the Master Cylinder was completely empty (rather than 1/4 full, fr'instance) then air most likely air had been pumped into the system (rather than brake fluid) as the brakes lost effectiveness, prior to your stopping off to check the fluid and topping off. When pads have really worn down, they do indeed make noise just as you say, more noticeable in the wet conditions before they truly get bad enough to be noticed in the dry. But what also happens is that as the pads wear, more "room" becomes available for hydraulic fluid within the system, so... MORE
Have a good one, Don May.... No reason why you can do a little work on that lawn mower though....simply taking 40 thou off the head and richening the mixture while adding a glass pack should make for more power! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25566... MORE
I've only owned one later model Midget; the rest have been older Sprites. But, I had the same noise and while the fuel pump was indeed getting noisey with age, I agree with Paul that you should check your exhaust clearances. The frame rail can resonate like a drum when the exhaust is not quite as tight as it should be and the pipes make contact with the car. But you said that it happens as soon as you unlock the ignition ? Wait until the pilot bearing starts going out... that's a noise that will really confound you.... MORE
Kevin.... With respect to the picture of the crankcase ventilation system at the carbs.....the system does not appear to be "pinched off" from what I THINK I see. The large hose from the front cannister on the timing chain cover appears to be clamped to a non-stock "Tee" fitting from which smaller hoses are clamped that run to the crankcase emissions breather ports on each carb. Perfectly normal set-up assuming these hoses are not clogged. Take the hose off at the cannister, clean the end and blow through it. With some restriction (the "exhaust holes" in the carbs are... MORE
Electric fuel pump. If you have a stock one, it will be located above the rear axle on the right side. Turn your key and and see if that is the area of the noise. You might have a have a solid state replacement which never shut off and make that sound constantly, whereas the stock Lucas will shut off when the floats fill up. Welcome, but as a new member, you would do well to introduce yourself and at least sign your name as there are about 600 members here. As a novice, you should check out my... MORE
Hi... please don't laugh as I am a novice to this MG stuff. I have just purchased my first Midget and have a little niggle. When I turn the ignition key to the first position I get a subtle knocking noise - obviously something electrical - maybe fuel pump or starter motor???? As I start the engine and drive this knocking is still there (so obviously a necessary part of the running of the car) but the noise becomes louder and louder on an ad-hoc basis especially after a long run then pulling up at traffic lights). Should I... MORE
Okay, ED - Here's the story: Grades 5, 8, etc are American designations which were never used in England. I don't know, and you don't either, what strength bolts and in which applications were used in cars of long ago. Maybe some of them were not very strong, but I can assure you that some were very strong. They were often not marked since their use was controlled by part number, and one would have to refer to the parts drawings and the old British Standards to find out exactly what they were. That said, bolts in critical safety-related... MORE
If you can pull the tube oout with the nut tightened, that is your problem. There should be a ferrule in the end of the tube that the nut holds but compression. You probably need news fuel feed lines between the jet and the float. I think the jet comes with these as an assembly. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25528... MORE
