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After all, it's a well know fact they increase hp by at least ten percent. "Jeremy Cogman" 24566... MORE
Don, It may be that from 75 on they were OEM. From what I've seen MG made up for the loss of performance with more graphics. As everyone knows, looking good is worth horsepower. Rob C robbiesg@... 24552... MORE
This maybe slightly off the Spridget subject but... Anyone know the thread size of a MGB front caliper bleeder? I think I'm going to give a set of those Russell Speed Bleeders a try. Anyone have any so so or negative experiences with them? Cheers, -Drew "Drew Griffith" 24541... MORE
The story.for those who tuned in late..... 1275 rebuilt to 1400cc,9.75 : 1 Cr 643 cam, weber 45DCOE. Engine sat for 16 years after rebuild,started for the first time last july, 2000 miles since. Burns and leaks oil. Compression test results: Cold no plugs 195,205,200,205 Cold 3 plugs 205,203,195,192 Cold 3plugs oil 230,225,225,215 Hot compression test -no plugs 205,210,210,210 Hot 3 plugs 175,185,190,185 Hot 3 plugs oil 225,210,210,200 It was suggested that I switch to a vented oil filler cap to reduce smoking and it appears to have cut it down but did not stop it. Need to drive... MORE
SAUCON VALLEY TEASE RALLY Philadelphia Region SCCA - Brandywine Motorsports Club - South Jersey Region SCCA Saturday, September 13, 2003 Start at Copperhead Grill along Route 378 south of Bethlehem (Due to football games at both Lehigh and Moravian on September 13, we have had to make this an early rally, so that we will be finished before the football crowd.) Time/Speed/Distance rally of approximately 60 miles through the historic Saucon Valley of Lehigh County, PA. Only paved roads will be used. The rally is designed to be first-time friendly. It will include easy route following instructions, basic TSD... MORE
Thanks for the info Gerard, and here's what I did... I measured the "at rest" distance between the mounts to be 12", but I didn't know at the time to note the tie-rod angle. I picked up the front end of the car, upper arm dropped against the rubber stop, and measured 13.5". Set the car back down gave a tape measure to my daughter and asked her to measure how much the car was moving up and down as I stood on the two front frame extensions jumping up and down myself. Don't laugh=85 it worked. My results... MORE
Hi Don, This could be the clutch, but I don't think so. If it were, you have some trouble, even if only occasionally, with second or one of the synchro gears as well. What you describe is probably caused by you first motion shaft continuing to spin even when the clutch is disengaged. With no synchro, there is nothing to slow the spinning non-synchro gear. My interpretation is that the first motion shaft is kept spinning by the pilot bushing or bearing. Could be a burred up bearing/bush (some 1275's has a phosphor bronze bushing, some had a needle... MORE
Actually this sounds normal if its just a slight crunch as you select 1st or reverese.. As the 4 speed box attached to the A-Series has not syncro on first or reverse.. and never did have. the 1500 boxes IIRC have syncro on all 4 forward gears, can't remember about reverse. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 24456... MORE
Thanks for all the feedback guys. Gerard, what you are saying about the first motion shaft continuing to spin makes sense as when the clutch is disengaged it sounds like there is still a lot of spinning of the gears in the transmission when I try to shift into first while at a dead stop. The car is still on a non-op registration so have not had a chance to take it out for any higher speed runs to see if things loosen up. Don "Don May" 24461... MORE
I have a transmission problem, or clutch, and would like some feedback on what I should look for as the possible problems. It is in the 73 rwa, 1275, ribcase trans. It was not driven for about a year prior to my purchasing it. I have trouble shifting into first and reverse most of the time with the engine running, then for brief periods of time strangely it will shift fine into first and reverse without any gear noise. I have bled the clutch lines and it looks like the travel at the slave is enough to disengage the... MORE
"Aldon Distributors" Aldon did a PerTronix equipped 45D mechanical curve for my 8.3-1 motor, based upon a planned (Judson) 6psi boost curve. Less than $300 including shipping. Bill Perry got the dizzy. In checking it on a distributor machine, it did not match the written curve provided. Bill shipped the dizzy up to me in CT so Pete Sachs guys could check it out on their machine(s). Sure enough....wrong curve. Shipped it back to Aldon after trading e-mails. Returned in a heartbeat with the "correct" curve...Aldon paid all shipping costs (by Air..both ways). Morals: 1.Check this part as you... MORE
"Improving cooling" 1. Thorough flush/"reverse flush" of entire system with proprietary "cleaner" 2. *80/20 Distilled Water/Anti-Freeze Mix or 100% Distilled Water with can of proprietary lube/anti-corrosion additive and a couple of drops or diswashing liquid or appropriate amount of "Water Wetter" 3. Modern aluminum "deep impellor" water pump..Colin Dodds reports "County" brand has a slightly deeper impellor than "AE" brand. Both good. 3. ^^Block Cyl. Head/Water Pump Bypass 4. *68C Thermostadt or Blanking Sleeve 5. 4.5" Cooper "S" Water Pump Pulley 6. Recore/upgrade stock rad or go "aluminum" altogether *Summer Only ^^Drill 1/4" hole in thermostadt plate as "new"... MORE
First thing to do is to make sure the standard system is work at its peak efficiency. Give the system a good flush, you may need to use a flushing product though sometimes a good flush by taking all hoses off and shoving the hosepipe into any orifice you can will do the trick. An electic fan will certainly help. Gives you an hp or two more, helps the car warm up quicker and provides better cooling when in traffic. IMHO an electric fan works better as a puller not a pusher i.e. between the engine and the rad.... MORE
G'day Adam, Nigel, Robert, Cap'n Bob et al The car in the photo, 7522N, is mine - the Fright. Bugeye tub, but now with 4.3 lt E-type running gear, except rear suspension which is Lotus 16 trailing arms and Chapman struts. Also Mk III doors and screen. 13" magnesium Minilites at the front and 15" at the rear. That's me in a khana. No problem getting around the flags with as much power oversteer as you like to dial in with the right foot. Look at the rear right tyre profile and compare the "bag" at the top and... MORE
When I bought this lovely thing 10 years ago, I thot it was the right one - anyone got an Aldon Yella for a pre A+? (71 Midget 1275) This one's been fondled, but never mounted. I gather Aldon quit making them due to probs getting parts from Lucas. This lists at $300 and the pre at $280. Can we talk? The yellow's sposed to be most compatible with performance cams, but the Red is for racers. David McCartney Captain Rapture 24394... MORE
Adam You'll find no better book on tuning/building the A Series Engine than Davi =3D=0D d Vizard's - Tuning BL's A Series Engine, it's the bible. One of the advantages of all of the sprite/midget range is that It will ta =3D=0D ke any one of the A Series engines, so a bored out 1275 would fit quite happily in =3D=0D an earlier version. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24346... MORE
Adam This really isn't an easy question to answer, which is why I suspect you haven't had many replies! I read this last night and I've been pondering it ever since! The first thing I think you need to do, is really decide what it is you wan =3D=0D t, and what your priorities are because many of your requirements seem to conflict =3D=0D with each other. To be honest, I think you need to forget about Frogeyes, they just are not =3D=0D within your budget of =A33,000, you can get Frogeyes for that money, but yo u'=3D=0D re... MORE
George... I think you have three problems: 1.The intake manifold mounted PCV system uses the vented/filtered oil filler cap to provide for incoming air. 2. The most effective crankcase scavenging consists of a feed to the PCV valve from below the pistons. 3. The "cover" to the old mechanical fuel pump fitting on the forward left side of the block just above the flange can be used as a "source" for relieving lower crankcase vapor/pressure in place of the old takeoff on the stock timing case cover which no longer exists, in consideration of your new timing cover set-up... MORE
Simultaneous smoking exhaust and leaking can be caused by build up of crankcase pressure. The A-series doesn't have a real rear crank seal, and even a slight positive crankcase pressure will cause it to leak, maybe lots. The same for exhaust smoke. With the engine running, remove the oil fill cap and put your hand over the opening to close it off. You should feel a slight vacuum - not a lot, maybe, but enough to feel. Increase engine speed and feel that too. If you feel pressure, even slight, that's a problem. New rings and 200+ psi sounds... MORE
"138F" Time to turn up the idle revs! Seriously....I hope they are rotating these guys. My one pet peeve with this whole thing is we didn't seem to have a post "main conflict" plan in place...or maybe we do and I am just not that aware of it. These guys are definitely earning their combat pay, for sure. Can you imagine what it must be like in a tank?! :(:( Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24300... MORE
My 1400cc engine which sat for a number of years after being built smokes. Between burning and leaking it goes through a quart every 200 miles or so. I've done a hot compression check and get 205, 210,210 and 210. (compression ration is 9.75:1). My thinking is that the problem is in the head, valve stem seals or guides, or with the rocker arm shaft, based on the consistent compression readings. I remember someone saying that even with good compression the problem could be bad oil control rings. Thoughts, comments, suggested diagnostic tests, would be appreciated. Thanks "george07876" 24254... MORE
wow.... 210? seems high for only 9.75:1 regardless.... Did you properly break in the engine before it sat all that time? Rings could simply not be seated yet.... and with that kind of compression, yes the 'blow-by' alone could blow that much oil out very easily. Seriously.... do you have a breather recirculation system? (crank fumes returned to the intake?) If so I'll bet the backs of the intake valves are already a nasty mess of oil sludge. Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 24260... MORE
Wow!! El warmo!! Let's see...that would be about 100F (which is warm enough, mind you!). In summer, it gets warmer in our Southern states such as Texas, where our fellow lister Brad Fornal is located. The American Airlines training center is located in Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas and I've been down their when it gets to 104-106 on a sunny day during their hot spells. But I suspect you are correct, Nigel, in your assumption...really, for this truly "hot". I don't know how Heathrow authorities measure their temperature but I assume it is "free air". It would be warmer on... MORE
Sure. Poor man's welder. Clean the joints well first, smear them with high strength epoxy and then pop rivet together before the epoxy cures, and - shucks, that's the way high performance airplanes were built not too long ago. Whatcha' think PilotRob? "Jeffrey Holmes" 24188... MORE
Fully restored and "modernized" Traveller for sale. Power assisted disc brakes completely rebuilt Nissan/Datsun A14 and 5 speed new hydraulics (both brake and clutch) New Ash framing Much, much more. Great looker, reliable and fun transportation. Located in San Francisco Ca. for more details. see links at: http://www.gerardsgarage.com/FS_Garage.htm email me offlist at pixelsmith@... gerard 24175... MORE
