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Jim OK, I think I'm getting confused between front and rear hubs, because I'm doing the front ones now! I the oil seal goes in as far as it'll go, then press the bearing in using the old one as a drift. Pack it with grease, then put the 'o' ring into its little groove with grease and then the paper gasket. Does that sound right? From what I remember, the oil seal does go in as far as it will go, there is a lip that it rests against on the 'halfshaft' side of the hub. When the... MORE
Nigel, Congrats, I can guess what a great feeling that is. I made some progress on my workshop this week end. Framed up bathroom and last wall. Built a roll around workbench and I hope to be able to drag one of my Bugeyes into the shop in January. Also it will be the first time moving on wheels in about 15 years. Keep it up. Cheers, Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 27107... MORE
I have used this method several times. Very easy to remove and install the springs this way with or without the engine in place and the cost is only two longer bolts and a couple of washers and nuts! I have found spacers and washers between the a-arm hole and the nut or bolt head make it easier to use a wrench to loosen and tighten as it raises the nut or head out of the indented area of the a-arm where the holes are located. I used a couple of large washers and socket wrench heads (makes about... MORE
The Concord (in principle) is not done, percieved "national attitude" notwithstanding. It's timing was bad among other world events. Had times been good and/or had they been able in enlarge it (more passengers) or develop a more fuel efficient engine(s) for it (R&D costs at a time when there was no money?), the larger capacity or more fuel efficient versions would be flying today. OTOP ("paw" - obligatory cat content, Guy Weller...I caught that "chock" comment, fella....watch it!!:).... "today" , we have email and electronic conferencing. You can see how circumstances combined against supersonic international global flight world-wide. At... MORE
Alan... Which came first? The chicken or the egg? :):) Oil is basic power for production...of nearly anything and everything. There are other factors of course like normal inflation, with or without the cost of basic power tripling over a short period. Oil was US$ 9.00 bbl. back in the early 60's, if that. Airline kerosene was US 15 cents a US gallon under fleet purchase, if that, back then. As a kid, leaded high test ran about 40 cents a gallon or so. The foregoing notwithstanding, the modern cars of today are far safer/better machines for sure. Part... MORE
Hi Colin Thanks for the heads up on the prop plating. Regarding brake pipes, my suggestion was to use Kunifer - a cupro-nickel alloy, which has the advantages of copper with non of the disadvantages and doesn't rust like steel. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26940... MORE
David Thanks, I didn't but it's a very good idea, and I'll certainly try it next time. I have to confess rather sheepishly that I scored 1 out of 2 on the circlip test! I hit upon a problem that I solved with my usual finesse : ) The circlip was somehow 'fouling' the hub, ie it wouldn't go down completely flat against the backplate because about 2 mil of it was overlapping the hub. So I ground off about 2mil off the circlip and it seemed to fit ok. Rather than mess about with the second one, I... MORE
One idea I have seen with this is to remove the locating pin from the cylin der and tap out the hole. A small screw can then be used into the cylinder. _____ From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 5:52 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Rear brake assembly David Thanks, I didn't but it's a very good idea, and I'll certainly try it next time. I have to confess rather sheepishly that I scored 1 out of 2 on the circlip test! I hit upon a problem that I solved with my usual finesse... MORE
Arghh I hate those stupid little circlips that hold the wheel cylinders in place. Such a fiddle to get them to fit and not ping them across the garage into some box at the bottom of a pile of rubbish! No it didn't happen, really, honest! I also forgot that you need two pairs of hands to assemble rear brakes, although I suspect that Ed could assemble the brakes on both sides of the axle, one arm tied behind his back, drinking a cup of tea, watching the ball game and having a conversation with one of his irate... MORE
I used POR 15 in my wheel wells and part of the engine compartment this summer and had some of it become bubbly as it cured. When I talked to their techies I was told that this was probably due to the humidity being too high and the surface was setting up before the lower material and this created problems for the material below the surface. He had me sand the bubbles with 320 sandpaper and redo it. I plan to use their engine kit when I get to working on the engine. Their Austin Healey green should look... MORE
Cap'n His car is a '68 which is a square wheel arch, the round arch didn't come in until '72. SWA's are available. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26763... MORE
Wire wheel, rear axle, I have gear oil coming out from the welch plug (oil collects in the spinner). I pulled out the plug and the seal is bad. I am unable to find a direct replacement part from Moss. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to build a new plug and/or seal to eliminate the oil leaking through? (1967 Sprite) I am replacing the bearings and grease seals also but have these parts available. Thanks for the help. Brandon "brandonweeks2000" 26725... MORE
Chris N. I don't think the Rockwell hardness situation I spoke of previously applies then for those who supplied these defective items were known and their stuff should have been removed from shelves easily by Jan. of '03 and replaced by those of decent quality. I know at the time Bill Perry was building my engine a coupla years ago, he had more than a few Spridgets in his shop for engine rebuild caused my metal contamination from these subtandard parts. But they should have been long gone by 01/03. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26706... MORE
Hi, I regularily replace the bonnet on my midget. I have a spare with the wheel bracket fixed on it, so that when we go on holiday we can get our luggage in the boot. We found the easiest for that is to have the hinges fixed to the lid, then offer the whole lot up to the car. But even for the boot it is a two person job. It might be best when replacing the bonnet that there are 2 helpers, to hold it steady!! Taking it off is far easier than replacing it!! May you be... MORE
Yup, well worth doing and that's a good price. However I'd get the tyres taken off and make a complete job of it. "Jeremy Cogman" 26656... MORE
-RE shot blasting,after a wheel is blasted or any steel a primer wants to be painted on within 20 mins after this time rust will be already starting to form,but you wont se this at the time,but you will when the rust comes back through your nice paint job and the worst type of blasting for this is sand,most blast cleanig firms will put primer on for you if you ask well the good ones will,and on this subject tyres are best removed a good job will not be done with them still on.If the jobs worth doing well... MORE
Nigel, how long have thoses TREs been standing? In what sort of conditions . They may be nice and tight because they are all corroded up. 1000 miles on the road and the corrosion will wear away and they will go loose. Then you'll have to change them and stump =A320 for another wheel allignment. They may be fine but at =A39 a side from Moss, probably cheaper from your l ocal factors you may consider fitting new ones and then forgetting them for quite a few years. Especially if you have to stump up =A32 a side for... MORE
I need to refurbish the steel wheels on my 1961 Mk 2 Sprite. I have completed the first one by elbow grease and it has been suggested to me that shotblasting would be a far easier way to get back to finish which is good enough for painting. Does anyone have any guidance on this from experience? I have been quoted around =A38 per wheel (tyre can remain on the wheel during the process) Tim "timandshelagh" 26637... MORE
I wrote the following post thinking about rostyles, but after I looked at the original post I realized you are asking about early steel wheels. Oh well, some of it is still pertinent, so here it is: I've had success using a combination of chemical stripper and sand blasting. I've used the enviro-friendly stripper (letting it sit for three hours) then I hosed off the residue and the remaining paint blasted off quickly at fairly low pressure. I agree that removing the tire it the smart thing to do. Then self etching primer, then a light coat of medium... MORE
Timster... This IS the way to go...bead blasting (glass)or the finest media you can get so as not to overly "pit" the surface as it's cleaned. Hit them with a metal cleaner and some zinc-phosphate primer then topcoat with a silver of your choice. Or, you can go all the way and have the blasted wheels "powder coated". This costs more but, it's a beautiful, tough, easily cleaned, long-lasting treatment. Alterntively, if not powder coated, a good tough, glossy paint is made by Hammerite. I've used this stuff in the past...it's pretty damn good and is what I would... MORE
no, ours are centre-laced (look at a TC's wheel for example of outside laced) It's difficult to compare the offset on centre-lock wires, because they don't have the same flat face that a bolt-on wheel has, as a datum point. Do Dayton say where they are measuring from? And will they exchange them/refund your money, if they don't fit? The 'direct replacement' 4.5"ers aren't exactly the same as stock, as stock are 4", so you are already starting off from a different position. I think the only foolproof way is to check them on the car, with tyres on,... MORE
Rob I have no useful information to offer on this except another stoopid question! If you're fitting wider wire wheels, what impact would that have on the splined wheel hub? ie would they still fit ok? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26625... MORE
I can only speak for my car, a'66 Midget Mk 2. As it originally arrived, the fronts were definitely left natural with the arms painted black, no question. The rears were also natural, but the arms were finished in what I think was probably a red oxide paint. The people who cared, fairly quickly painted them, however, as they seemed to be subjected to a real testing time under the rear wheel arches. "Roger Stinson" 26617... MORE
Nigel... I have used the "new" sealed tie rod ends for many moons now. On my PO'd Vizardized '74 I had to replace them at approx. 50K miles and this was a car lowered with sport springs, 5.5" wheels with 60 series and KYB Gas Adjust shocks, 3/4" roll bar...very stiff set-up so the sealed TR ends I got from Sports & Classics I'd have to rate as pretty good. Anyone know any reason why the sealed ends couldn't be tapped for a regular grease fitting? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26627... MORE
OK Gang, In my quest for a wider wire wheel, I have found Dayton makes a 13"x5.5" center laced wire wheel. I believe our stock wheels are bead laced? Not a big deal of difference I would think. Now, their direct replcement 4.5" wheels, have a 3.5" back space. The 5.5" wheels have a 3" back space. If my feeble mind is correct, that means an additional 1.5" would be to the outside on the wider wheels. I have a RWA Midget, so it shouldn't be a problem, right? wrong? maybe? I will try and measure tonight, but does... MORE
