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are you sure it's the frame it's rubbing? (i.e. is it visible rubbing there, or just audible?) It's not uncommon for a wheel to rub on a flexible brake hose on full lock - check this out, as they can rub through with obvious potential disastrous results! They shouldn't contact anything solid though - there is a lock-stop built into the king-pin which the stub axle contacts before anything else, unless you have ultra wide wheels! The other thing to note, once you've sorted the rubbing thing, is that if it turns more in one direction, both tie rods... MORE
Can those of you who are running front tube shocks let me know which ones (manufacturer and part#) you're running? I'm looking for a set for my 62 Sprite (I already have the conversion hardware) and I'd like to get a feel for what other people are running. Anyone running the Carreras shocks from Winners Circle? KYBs? I'm also running the 400 lb competition springs with an alternate engine. My engine, spring and tire combo sets my front frame height at approx 6 inches off the ground and the distance between the shock mounts at 12 inches. I measured... MORE
..hey group,..my 62 has a tendency to rub its drivers side front wheel against the inner frame when i make tight turns..but not when i make a tight opposite turn..do you think its a tie rod that needs ajustment?..or.....? its odd,... it did not do it before but now recently it has started. thanks for your help in advance! samuel "modernlmi2000" 24940... MORE
I go out to put my 78 Midget away for the night, and - the key won't turn! What the heck!! I find that the cylinder is a bit sticky, in that sometimes it stays in the "in" position even with the key out. I gave it a shot of silicone spray, no help. Basically I can't get the key to turn at all. This is out of the blue. I checked; the key is not being stopped from turning by the steering wheel being turned in one direction or another. My Midget has no "key unlock" button for... MORE
Errr, no Bob, One identifies nuts and bolts be the item that they fasten. Sump bolts, timing cover bolts, steering wheel nut, header nuts, seat runner bolts. Get the picture? So, wheel studs and wheel nuts! Guy "Guy Weller" 24886... MORE
In album labeled Stoneleigh. The car has an all steel bonnet, disk brakes and was very clean and tidy through out. I believe it still has skinny crossply tyres on solid wheels. The car is owned by a Midgetsprite club member - see the central disk on the windscreen . The Fiat picture can be removed by the moderator as it's not LBC , but it's an interesting comparison Alan "Alan" 24783... MORE
i don't know why you lads(ladies) winge about women,..my fiancee drives a 46 royal enfield j2 and never complains once when my midget acts up on occasion. oh, and you can fit a single front motorbike wheel and a single cylnder j2 motor in a midget and still have room for passenger and the customary blanket and bottle of wine. s addison 24790... MORE
The Horn Push should definitely be in the steering wheel boss on your car. I will scan the page from the BMC parts list so that you can see what you should have. I will e-mail it directly to you if that is OK. R "Roger Stinson" 24707... MORE
RE: Horn Not necessarily. What year car is yours? Later cars had a small cylindrical platic switch about the diameter of a Bic pen with a brass spring loaded contact at each end. This fits in a small hole in the steering wheel. They are easily broken and it is missing you would not know what should be in there. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24685... MORE
Hey Don, I'm not sure my first reply made it to the list so I'm gonna do this again just in case. It doesn't feel like the turn signal arm is catching on what it's supposed to catch on to make the signal work. There's no resistance when I move the lever up or down. I haven't taken it apart yet to look because I'm just a little nervous taking the steering column apart. As for the horn, when I remove the cover in the middle of the steering wheel there's nothing there. No wires, no contacts no nothing.... MORE
No, No, No! The Spridget sare unibody constructtion and as long as no structural panels are removed, the car does not flex (as in the Big Healeys or MGA's). The curve in the frame is that way to set the wheel castor. The frame will not straighten out when the engine is back in, nor should anything be done do accomplish same. That will permanently ruin the car! Sheesh, for a purist, you should know this!...'-) Gerard "gerardchateau" 24614... MORE
Nigel, I don't think you should assume that just because pinstriping was not a factory finish option here in the UK, that it was not an original option over the pond as well. If MG did things for the overseas markets like triple wipers, extra indicator lights, pollution control stuff, then why not pinstripes? Hey, they even thought of putting the steering wheel on the wrong side just to attract extra buyers! If not a factory finish, then it is very likely an importer's addition rather than down to individual Yankee owners. Guy "Guy Weller" 24598... MORE
A quick update on the progress of the Midget. I've got primer coats on the underside, a coat of stone chip and seam sealer on the seams. I decided to turn the car over and continue with the primer coats on the other panels rather than complete the underside with top coat, turn it over and put the wheels back on. It suddenly struck me while I was prepping the engine bay for paint, that with the engine in, the body alignment may be slightly different. The question therefore is this - should the two outer wings, bonnet and... MORE
Hello, i'm new to the group and I am looking for just a few bits,..mostly a period radio, a stock muffler, and (I realize its a stretch and yes, I know I can get one on e-bay or through the standard mail order companies, but it never hurts to ask) a black carpet kit for my 1962 midget. I also have a spare copy of John Blaggots book "Mighty Midgets and special sprites"...its very nice book and its in perfect condition. aaand while I have your attention, I have oil running out my back left hand side rear wheel... MORE
Hi Drew, I don't know if this is a help or an answer to your question, but I think I would approach it this way. You want your tie rod ends to be as straight (horizontal) as possible at rest. This is for something callled "bump steer". The more angle you have to the tie rods the more toe-in/toe-out you will have as the cars rises or drops. You'll know your upper limit (chassis rising- wheel drop) by your bump stops. Racer's (at least Chuck's blue #50) had adjustable bolts used as bunp stops to limit travel. Lower limit...... MORE
Sounds good. Make a careful check of the known rust spots and if all is OK give the old WaxOyl some welly. Sounds like this chap is a bit like me, only mine is an MG. I hope to be driving mine for a good bit yet though ..... Might even have the original steering wheel! R. "Roger Stinson" 24466... MORE
Colin, you are always an amazing source of information and taking time to share it. Fortunate we are to have you on the list. Yesterday in a fit of curiosity I took the boot lock off the 69 and disassembled it and was lucky as the 73 boot key after some wiggling allowed me to turn the barrel on the 69 to remove it. Had it not been for that bit of luck, as you say, it would have been impossible to remove the barrel. Filed off the crimps as you did and will drill and insert a pin... MORE
G'day Adam, Nigel, Robert, Cap'n Bob et al The car in the photo, 7522N, is mine - the Fright. Bugeye tub, but now with 4.3 lt E-type running gear, except rear suspension which is Lotus 16 trailing arms and Chapman struts. Also Mk III doors and screen. 13" magnesium Minilites at the front and 15" at the rear. That's me in a khana. No problem getting around the flags with as much power oversteer as you like to dial in with the right foot. Look at the rear right tyre profile and compare the "bag" at the top and... MORE
do those wheels bolt straight on to Spridget hubs? David "David Jacobs" 24347... MORE
Adam This really isn't an easy question to answer, which is why I suspect you haven't had many replies! I read this last night and I've been pondering it ever since! The first thing I think you need to do, is really decide what it is you wan =3D=0D t, and what your priorities are because many of your requirements seem to conflict =3D=0D with each other. To be honest, I think you need to forget about Frogeyes, they just are not =3D=0D within your budget of =A33,000, you can get Frogeyes for that money, but yo u'=3D=0D re... MORE
I don't think there is a differnece, but I can;t say positively. I believe the spline can vary at the steerig wheel end, but not sure of the other. I don't currently have the means to check/compare them. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24328... MORE
The packing is to ensure that the rack and the column meet at an accurate 90 degrees. So the packing piece could go on either side to ensure this, depending on where it is needed.. I don't think it relates to the year of manufacturer, but is just to adjust for "manufacturing tollerances" in the assembly of the front chassis rails and cross member. Assemble the shaft to the rack pinion, with the rack bolted loosly in position to the frame. Fix the steering shaft upper clamp bolts; spin the wheel left and right to get it "comrfortably aligned"... MORE
Hi again: Thanks to all those that helped answer some questions I had about the carpet, that was most useful. I found that I have snaps on the footwell carpet and the trans tunnel. Question: The rear wheel arch cover pieces seem to have a small vinyl pad sewn into them. I assume this is a wear pad for the top frame? Or could I have placed this piece in the wrong spot??? They sure seem to belong there. Can someone tell me if there is a vinyl pad on theirs? Thanks Rio "Rio Rafael" 24319... MORE
Recently tried a fiddle with my odometer (as opposed to trip meter) as, likewise, mine stopped working. Well I think it was down to wear in the pawl which pushes the oddometer driving wheel round. I fiddled around for quite a bit and came to the conclusion that it needed the attentions (and parts stock) of a specialist so it's going to stay broken unitl I have a spare 60 - 70 pounds for a rebuild. "Jeremy Cogman" 24280... MORE
Whooooooooooo This is going to be an interesting thread. As far as BMIHT Trace certificates are concerned heres the details from mine, I've blanked out the numbers with X's for security reasons. Production Trace Certificate Number 92/6157 MG Midget Mark III Car/Chassis No. G-AN5/8660X-G Engine No. 12CE-DA-H/XXXXX Body No. 67XXX Specification: RHD, Home market Colour Exterior: Blue Royale Colour Trim: Black Colour Hood: Black Date built: 18 May - 2 June 1970 Date despatched: 8 June 1970 Destination Dealer: University Motors Limited, London Other Numbers Gearbox, 56XXX, Rear axle 14XXX Key numbers: FS.XXX, FS.XXX Details of Equipment: Wire Wheels,... MORE
