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From: David Jacobs [mailto: davidj@... ] Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 5:07 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Exhaust Noise louder than "quiet", but not as loud as "too loud"! "Duncan Sinclair" 26702... MORE
Hi, I am quite new to my 1967 1275 sprite and I think it may need a new muffler but I am not totally sure. How noisy should these cars be ? I know they have a distinctive rasping sound but this just seems too loud. Should they run quiet when idling? Thanks for any advice Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 26701... MORE
The "frame" rails the are just in front of the seats and parallel to the tunnel do they get covered in vinyl? As the carpet kit does not have enough material to cover them and the car did not have original carpet. Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26673... MORE
There's a little flat on the rod you can put a wrench on. It probably won't work. Use a pipe wrench on the tie rod end. Maybe you'll have to replace the tie rod end, maybe not. "Jeffrey Holmes" 26586... MORE
I am at last a stage where I am trying to install parts on the car. When the old ones were removed, a mere 15 or so years ago, everything seemed so logical & it appeared that everything would just pop right back in place. Sound familiar? I kept all my old brake pipes etc. labelled everything & took lots of photos. However I didn't take enough. Is there anybody with a frogeye in the midlands who would let me photograph every inch of their car? It doesn't have to be perfect, mine won't be. My list of detailed... MORE
Listers, one and all. For the past few years we've had a group of enthusiasts gather in Madison WI (USA) for a bit of post-Thanksgiving turkey Sprite dismantling and/or rebuilding called Save Our Sprites. These "events" take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving (Nov. 28,29 this year) and are viewable over the internet through some video magic. (details later) We hope to improve that this year with faster service for better interaction. In the past, those who wanted to contribute, but couldn't attend, offered food and beverage from their locality. We've had some great variety from scrapple to... MORE
Bob.... Go with an alcohol/water mix (60/40) and I am quite sure you could run up to 8psi boost on 9.4 with no problem but, you're gonna be far better off running both the foregoing along with an ignition retard system or, limiting advance to something like 24 degrees on a regular mechanical advance distributor considering the best you can get in terms of pump fuel will be 98RON unleaded. MSD makes an excellent boost retard ignition system and I am sure Aldon over there has some ideas in this respect as well which may very well consist of... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
Bob, Well... You're right what skews my thinking is that many years ago I had a worn timing chain that was so bad the headers would glow red as the engine speed increased. BTW the chain is new duplex with vernier gears. In order to get it to idle 900-1000 I had to retard the timing (rotate the dizzy ccw). The idle screws would have no effect on the speed unless I did that. Does this mean I got some leaks around the carb shafts? I'm going to go back and static time the ignition and see where it's... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
Well, I thought I had the cam timed in right. I got it to idle <1000 but when revved up it spits a little and the headers glow slightly red! Arggh, I need to retime the cam. I think it's slightly retarded, the cam that is! Am I correct in this? Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26326... MORE
Well, Alan (good morning, BTW!)... The VP3 would be "more" of a cam in the smaller rather than larger bore engines. The shorter the stroke, the more "square" the engine, the more "revability", all else equal (BIG caveat.. the latter!:). So, the long bore stock 1098 wouldn't be a "revver" but man, it has got to be one of the smoothest of all Series A varients with it's "silky" exhaust note. Martyn's 1098 is "built" though. Friend of mine owns an XK140....huge Jaeger gauges....a good 4.5" I believe for tach and/or speedo. Good point on the red lights...which is... MORE
Hi all,is there many of you out there who have used the engine from the marina/ltal for your cars,l have just fitted mine so l had better get on and put the rest of the car together so l can run it.While on this subject and if its a help to any one,l have used a inlet manifold from titon motor sports to mount a carb from an MG metro,but even using that manifold the carb was very close to the bonnet,so l cut 1/4" off the damper piston rod and then put the damper pot in the lathe... MORE
VP3 cam...oh, yeah!!! Martyn, this is about as hot as you can get for the road in a 1275 and still have decent low end for light to medium traffic. In your smaller 1098, it's almost a mild race cam! Hopefully, you have the larger main bearing "cc" engine because this cam's torque curve comes in at about 3200 on a 1275cc+ motor and will pull right through 7,000rpm with larger valves and 1.5 rollers. On my 1340, it would idle very nicely at about 1,000rpm (nice "lopey" sound) and behaved very well using a 45DCOE with a Weber... MORE
Thanks to all that offered suggestions. To all, it's rather embarrassing but I have solved my problem! I thought I'd set the point gap well..... I must have screwed up and got to large a gap! I closed the gap some and it started right up. I should have thought of this, I ran the car 100 miles a day 18 years ago. Maybe my memory is not a sharp as it used to be. Anyway I need to get it to idle below 1000, it's got a VP3 cam so I realize it will never idle very smoothly.... MORE
Whoops, I meant egr valve. The connector for the valve on the intake manifold has not been capped though. "kari_kevin" 26266... MORE
Colin at sprite parts wrote I happen to have a brand new 12G295 head, still in the BMC wax paper. So I measured it for you. It is exactly 2.754" thick. So, That means it's just inside the drawing tolerance of 2.75" +/- 0.005" However,Colin The depth dimension of the combustion chamber - could you give us a dimension of this please. ,( which is more critical to find out out if the engine face has been machined) In fact any dimensions for a brand new head would be useful. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I include part of an email I sent... MORE
Reguarding the SU's on your 1275/1380, you can get the manifold from an MGB, cut the center and then run a pair of HS4's. :) Gives lots of power and fits under the Bugeye bonnet. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26144... MORE
Cap'n: Thanks for your help. The canister vent lines are clean and you can blow thru them. (I assume you mean the lines that run from secondary canister to behind inner fender.) I do wonder about the vent pipe to seperator hook up in trunk. I renewed these rubber lines, would it make a difference if the were possibly crossed? I will switch them and see. As you mentioned this model should have a tight fitting cap with rubber gasket... which it does not have at this moment. In the meantime I have dropped the tank again, removed sending... MORE
Well....Big Bob.... I cannot source this engine number but... "ass-u-me" ing a high compression 948, the U standing for remote change gearbox "over here". A standard set of Spridget 1.25 SU's with AN needles and blue springs should work very well, I would think. Thing is, you would want this on the better flowing Cooper twin intake manifold if at all possible instead of the stock Spridget (worse flowing) type. And then, the carb mounting angle might be just different enough that use of the Cooper intake manifold might require a little fetteling under there to get proper clearance... MORE
HI GUYS! I HAVE BEGUN TO RESTORE AN 1960 MK1 FROGEYE. THE ENGINE IN THE CAR SEEMS TO BE AN AUSTIN A40 OR A50 WITH A SINGLE ZENITH CARB. THE CARB IS TOO HIGH TO CLOSE THE BONNET SO I WAS WONDERING IF I COULD SWAP TO TWIN SU CARBS. I GOT MY HANDS ON A SINGLE MINI SU CARB WITH MANIFOLD WHICH FITTED PERFECTLY BUT IT WAS STILL A LITTLE TOO HIGH. ARE THERE MINIS WITH TWIN SU CARBS AT AN ANGLE OR EVEN A SINGLE SU OFF A MORRIS MINOR THAT WOULD SUIT MY CAR? REGARDS, ROBERT... MORE
I also think Minis had the carbs at a slightly different angle to Spridgets, so they could squeeze in betweent he engine and bulhead. The Mini manifold I got for a pair of 1" SUs definitely has too steep an angle to fit my 1275 Midget, so the front carb would have rubbed against the bonnet. I'm not sure about the other fwd cars, as they had more room to fit stuff in. Stewart, is the fibreglass of your bonnet thicker than a steel one would be? This is often the case. Regards David "David Jacobs" 26116... MORE
Mike What kind of fuel delivery problems are you having? The correct size of the actual fuel pipe itself is 1/4 " diameter, so I wouldnt haave thought either of those two rubber hose pieces would cause a problem. It's more likely to be something else, perhaps something blocking, or fuel pump not working correctly or dirt in the carbs, dirty fuel filter etc. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 25812... MORE
The Morris minor engine will bolt straight in and sit on the original mountings as log as you still have them! However there are some minor (?) differences, but very few of these will prevent the car form driving. You will have to fit an electric fuel pump as the original 948 had an AC mechanical pump driven from the crank shaft, the Morris minor had an SU electric pump, and so the block will not have the hole in the side to fit the mechanical pump. The minor engine will be one of three sizes. 803cc in which... MORE
Check the crankcase pressure before you strip out the engine. It may be the cause of all the trouble. A lot of work if its only in need of a PCV etc.etc. R "Roger Stinson" 25696... MORE
