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Duncan wrote I did consider hooking up a block from the roof beams in the garage but the better half was terrified I would damage the new roof....Put her foot down about that one :-) Thats how I did it. Removed the bonnet, jacked the car up onto rar ramps at the front . A couple of short ropes around the engine (removed the alternator manifold / carbs and starter first)Used a block and tackle with the load over spead between 3 beams . Took the weight of the engine with the block and tackle then jacked the car... MORE
Duncan Well if I can take mine out complete with transmission with a trolley jack, bunch of bricks and a length of wood, I'm sure you can get your's out with a proper hoist! Personally I think its best to take it out complete with (gearbox) transmission, saves messing about with trying to get the awkward gearbox bolts undone with it still in position. Mine came out fairly easily once the bolts were all removed from the transmission tunnel. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27564... MORE
when you pull just the engine by itself, you have to lift it slightly before you can move it forwards, so that the front pulley clears the cross member (assuming you have an A series engined car, not a 1500 - the cross member is different) However, the top of the gearbox comes up against the heater ducting below the battery tray, so you have to lift a bit and pull a bit repeatedly and gradually work the thing past all the obstructions. If you pull the engine and 'box together, it's slightly easier from this respect, but you... MORE
if you're desperate to do *something*, you can check the email headers for the IP address, look that up, and report them to their service provider's abuse department; it might stop a few but even that won't do any good if they're using anonymous mail forwarding services or faking the headers. David "David Jacobs" 27494... MORE
Chris Dartford tunnel isn't the best of places at ANY time ! If you want to swing by NW Surrey on your way I'd be happy to look at it with you, but realise that this would take you rather a long way out of your way. The bonus for you would be that you could see my Midget in a serious pile of bits, but hopefully with a nice shiny dark blue coat of paint on it! Working on that today, rub rub rub rub... Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27478... MORE
Chris Dartford tunnel isn't the best of places at ANY time ! If you want to swing by NW Surrey on your way I'd be happy to look at it with you, but realise that this would take you rather a long way out of your way. The bonus for you would be that you could see my Midget in a serious pile of bits, but hopefully with a nice shiny dark blue coat of paint on it! Working on that today, rub rub rub rub... Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27481... MORE
Don... With a working PCV system, the crankcase "sucks" to one extent or the other! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27457... MORE
I think Wes meant the wires from the reverse light *switch*, Mr Pedantic! They do come forwards out of the gearbox tunnel then into the main loom. David "David Jacobs" 27312... MORE
Yep..you got it all, and you got it right. However....while I personally like running well vented, there is nothing wrong with the simple pre-'68 intake manifold mounted, diaphragm equipped PCV valve fed from the timing case cover. This is a good KISS (keep-it-simple- stupid) PCV system teamed with the filtered oil filler cap. There is virtually no maintenance to this system besides renewing the cap once a year and the rubber diaphragm when it becomes porous (the engine begins smoking out the exhaust and using oil like crazy when this occurs...so you'll know "when"!:). If you have decided to... MORE
Jim... OK...you want to run "vented" instead of "closed loop" but wish to retain the charcoal cannister and use it as a catch can either in it's present position or possibly elsewhere in the engine compartment. Fine...but you MUST promise to read the last paragraph! :) I am strictly a layman in the post '67 emissions systems which were strapped to our engines as "add on" devici, providing for a "closed loop" system to ensure crankcase/fuel tank vapor evacuation into the combustion process. Ripped it out myself, and never used one. I took a look at it under the... MORE
Duncan... First choice: pick up the later timing case cover and utilize the intended stock simple PCV system. It works very well. You see, the Series A motor has a scroll (oil thrower) affair back by the main bearing which depends upon tight metal (block) clearances for "oil tightness". The motor does not have a "regular" rear main oil seal, Duncan. Without the stock PCV system, these motors have a real tendency to leak oil out of this area, most especially as they build miles on the crankshaft. The stock PCV system will draw out crankcase PRESSURE along with... MORE
Good move, Duncan... While I myself run "vented", the simple pre-'68 PCV system has more positives than negatives on Series A motors. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27236... MORE
Bob, Thanks for your reply. Maby my question was not clear enough. There is no fuel leaking in the engine compartment. It is either vaporizing in the float bowls or draining down inside the intake manifold. I took one carb apart last night and i suspect it is the two O-rings that seal the main jet. Part # 16 on the moss website. If these are old and hard fuel will have to leak by. I would think that anyone using an electric fuel pump with this style of carby could have this problem and not even know it.... MORE
Hi, Duncan.... The "open" port on the normal stock intake manifold on the '67 is for the rubber diaphragm equipped PCV valve which is fed via a rubber hose from the "flame arrester" (can) fabricated into the timing chain cover at the front of the motor. The "intake air" for crankcase gases drawn out from the crankcase into the intake manifold via the PCV valve is the plastic "filtered" oil cap containing a "graduated orifice" (designed "hole" of a specific diameter. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27173... MORE
Guys... Isn't there an anti-drainback valve in the 948's mechanical fuel pump? It's been 40 years for me so I've forgotten! :) But I think there may be one, Chris. And with no disrespect intended Chris, why would anyone run an engine with possible fuel leaks in the engine compartment? You don't EVER want to do this, man. Disaster doesn't always strike the "other guy"! :) I mean if you look just below the carbs, you'll find the exhaust system!! Speaking of which.... Invest in a portable FIREX as well that you can affix to, and carry around in... MORE
Here are my cam numbers: Top center intake opens 29* exh closes 31* Bottom center in closes 64* exh opens 66* intake lift 0.295 exhaust lift 0.272 Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 27111... MORE
Nelson... Well, "knock" is pretty well tied to compression ratios and timing along with octanes of course, but you already know this. You are looking at a cam with numbers similiar to a Kent #276. The lift numbers may be the other way around but this is a minor point (usually a bit more lift for exhaust rather than inlet, when cam is assymetric, 'cause exhaust valve is smaller I guess?). This is a very fast road cam, similiar to what an APT VP3 or Kent #286 would be for a 1275, more or less. Minimum compression ratio for... MORE
Hi Colin Thanks for the heads up on the prop plating. Regarding brake pipes, my suggestion was to use Kunifer - a cupro-nickel alloy, which has the advantages of copper with non of the disadvantages and doesn't rust like steel. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26940... MORE
have you tried the trick of using a bolt screwed into the hydraulic pipe connection hole, with suitable washers/large diameter nut to press the circlip into place? "David Jacobs" 26915... MORE
Ok...I get the Castrol 20w50 and put it in the engine. Crank her up and she hums just sweeeeet. So, I go out to drive her. When I push in the clutch she idles down way low like something's dragging on the engine and the little red ignition light comes on. I give her a little gas and we seem to be fine. No problems putting her into gear so I go for a drive around the block. I get to the end of the street and can't get her in first. I get her in second and we... MORE
Thanks Nigel, Yes, sentimentality does enter into it. My father gave me this Sprite as a high school graduation present some 23 years ago. He actually gave it to me in pieces, and we rebuilt it together, which brought us closer, considering I was living with my mother after their divorce. So it's not just a car, it's a family heirloom! In the last three years I have installed performance suspension front and rear, uprated brakes, Weber, and LCB exhaust header. Now the drivetrain is out to rebuild the engine and install the Datsun 5- speed. Looking more closely... MORE
Normal equals quite loud under load. I always used to put a second small silencer in the pipe and found that I prefered the slightly more muted sound. It still has that potential for a nice purposeful growl, indicating a healthy potential output! R "Roger Stinson" 26711... MORE
Hi there Duncan Welcome to the list. If you're not sure if your exhaust (muffler) needs replacing, it would probably be better to inspect it visually rather than listen to the sound of it. Look for any signs of splits/cracks or severe corrosion. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26696... MORE
Hi, First off hello to all. I am a new spridget owner and enjoy reading all the posts. I was wondering what the "normal" exhaust noise level for a 1967 1275 should be. I am quite new to this car and think it needs a new muffler but not sure. I know they had a raspy sound but this sounds too extreme. Any points welcome. Thanks Duncan "duncan846" 26689... MORE
Wow...tough one to call over an email set-up, Duncan. These cars came with a single baffled muffler. The afermarket or special tuning sports versions of these were of straight through design and either steel or glasspacked..... Cherry Bomb or Thrush make excellent glasspack mufflers for these cars 'cause they come in small, compact sizes and are easily fitted. Don't forget Duncan, noise standards were a thing of the future "back then". A Sprite's normal sound back when would be considered very loud by today's standards. It should be "raspy" but not so loud that it becomes really bothersome on... MORE
