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Subject: Re: Bugeye Group..... Re: The Originality Wars...another take A very interesting spin on the subject. It seems to put it more into perspective for me. I am not restoring a Bugatti here. And I have no interest in restoring a 1959 tract house (that sold for $15,000 new) back to its original condition with galvanized water pipes and a floor furnace. I like air conditioning, a modern kitchen, disk brakes, 5 speed, going faster etc. As well, I like the neighborhood, and the people who live around me, and the other people who drive LBC's and besides, they... MORE


An interesting discussion . Thanks for your input guys, I guess a lot of people were also under the impression that the Up movement counteracted the Down movement in terms of volumetric displacement. To sum it up then, 1) thethe crankcase does breathe a little.2 ) Most of its pressure is caused by blowpast the piston rings. 3) If required the original (GWO) charcoal cannister should be used.4) alternatively a pipe can be fed to a ventilated container and regularly emptied. I like this as I don't believe that an engine enjoys eating it's own smoke !!! Alan Ariel... MORE


Happy New Year to all! I promised myself I'd get into Midget gear right after the first. My dual Spitfire(Gasp!) carbs and manifold are in hand but the carbs are dirty! Does anyone on the list have a good method to remove years of grime, gunk etc. so the new setup can look good? I've been told to soak 'em in carb cleaner but I've never been that impressed with the results. Would also be interested to know if any cutting is involved when installing a Spitfire 1300 carb/manifold setup in a RB Midget. Thanks in advance. The days... MORE


You don't need any other reading material other than the 'bible'! And I've also heard problems of bonnet clearance with that manifold and a 1 =3D=0D 3/4 SU, you may have to make a 'bulge' in it - eek ! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27978... MORE


An LCB is an awful lot easier to fit to a Midget than a Mini. The only potential problem area is the hole where it has to go past the chassis rail; you might need to relieve the flange on one side to get the manifold to fit. The MG Metro inlet manifold will fit but there might possibly be carb/bonnet clearance issues (not 100% sure about this bit) There are several other alternative manifolds for a single 1" SU though, if this is a problem. Regards David PS reading recommendations should include David Vizard's 'Bible'! 27974... MORE


"1.75 SU bulge" Not if you buy the "correct" Titan manifold as provided over here by non other than Vizard's partner in crime, the "other" David at www.aptfast.com Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27979... MORE


Many thanks for the replies. Yes, I realise that the system is the sum of its many parts. And I should have thought it through a little more as I am planning to fit an MGMetro head and camshaft. Now I'm thinking I need to fit the water heated inlet manifold also. So the question changes a little. How much hassle is it to fit an LCB in a midget. (In a mini we had to attack the bulkhead (firewall) with an 'ammer to create space) Is it possible to retain the metro inlet manifold , do I need... MORE


Zappa? Is that you Zappa? Leak is most likely caused by a sticking fuel float inlet valve. It may have a bit of grit in it. They are easy to replace, but try cleaning it first. Another likely culprit is the short length of flexible plastic tube that connects from the base of the carburetta bowl to the main jet. They come loose and leak at the bowl end. There should be a small neoprene washer, a brass washer and a gland nut. Don't overtighten the gland nut, but do make sure the pipe is pushed well into the... MORE


Just started up my '77 Midget to let it run for a while (35 degrees F and started like normal) when I noticed a heavy gas smell. I looked for a leak and found gas coming from under the carborator in a small, steady stream (running onto the heat shield and dripping on the exhaust system). The gas line looked fine coming into the carborator. I'm pretty new to engine repair, so I would appreciate any suggestions on what to do. Do I need a new carborator, or can they be rebuilt (by someone new to it)? Thanks. "tzappa"... MORE


oh right, I get you. As you said yourself in another post, it's down to a combination of the total package and depends how keen Alan is to get that last few horsepower. The standard manifold will work, but the higher the potential HP output of the engine, the greater will be the proportional loss. David "David Jacobs" 27947... MORE


David I mean in terms of the 'state of tune' of the engine. Did the MG Metro not have a different inlet manifold, cylinder head, bigger inlet and exhaust valves and carbs etc ? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27945... MORE


BL thought it was worth doing for the MG Metro. That had what is effectively an LCB design, albeit in two parts: a cast manifold for the 3 into 2 part, and the exhaust had twin front pipes going into a 'Y'. You could probably fit this to a Spridget with a little bit of ingenuity (though on second thought, it's probably more hassle and less effective than a tubular one) Regards David "David Jacobs" 27942... MORE


Without having the benefit of Vizards book along side of me. Cap'n Bob. Are tubular LCB manifolds worth the presumed hassle of fitting. I know they were a real B*st*rd to fit into a mini , apart from the noise I didn't really notice humungous amounts of increased performance. Given exhaust gas velocity exiting from a ported head (now that desription could apply to some listers LOL) is a LCB worth fitting along with a stainless straight through pipe with a single silencer? (Mufflers are what women use to keep their dannies and neck warm !) Or is the... MORE


Hi, Alan... With respect to correctly sized LCB.... for the stock and/or short cammed engine (with largest Mickey D's in one hand and Vizard's book in the other) in a word NO, not in and of itself with respect to the stock engine, or even as part of a free flow system, unless you are cruising the highways at 70+ most of the time. For a trifle more power... The short 3-1 is better for fuel economy below the rpms associated with tooling around town and driving applications wherein rpm's associated with the above paragraph aren't likely to be... MORE


David If its any help the the 1098 10CC engines used the same part number manifold as the early 12CE, 12DA1275 engines (12G420) up to GAN5 139772 from GAN5 139773 the part number changed to 12G1581, athough the manifolds look identical, the only main difference is the introduction of a flange on the manifold to the downpipe. So the answer to your question is yes it will fit on a 1098 with no change in performance. My 1971 1275, also had a tubular manifold fitted, and whilst it was a pretty tight fit, nothing was altered to make it... MORE


Don't know, but I do know my 1275 engine in he '59 has a three branch exhaust manifold on it that was originally on a 948! Stewart "Ford Prefect" 27925... MORE


By now it should be obvious that I have a few days off and am spending them in the workshop, hence another quick question. Are 1098 and 1275 exhaust manifolds identical or is the 1275 version a little larger internally, and if the 1275 is a little larger internally would it fit on a 1098 and what effect would it have on performance? The reason I ask is that my project (65 Sprite ) has one of those performance enhancing three branch manifolds unfortunately the previous owner has hacked a lump out of one of the front chassis legs... MORE


I agreed to that. See not all the air/fuel mixture get combusted or blow out the exuast. Some of the got by the piston ring gap or right between the rings and cylinderwall (bad) inturn increase the crankcase pressure. One of the few ways the pressure can be relieve is through the PCV and if that thing is clog, the oil seal at the crankshaft will be the one that take toll. Pat "Pat S." 27912... MORE


BECKERS states (in part).. "....it lowers fuel octane anyway" Yeah, this is true and a tough one to call (except in a high compression motor or when higher octanes are available at reasonable cost) against crankcase evacuation of vapors/pressures with respect to oil being forced passed seals or out the rear scroll "seal". But it's basically why I run "vented" instead of "evacuated", the thought of introducing oil (in any amount) into the combustion process "going against the grain" personally, though there are cases (Judson and to a lesser extent, Shorrocks applications) where this comes with the territory so... MORE


Paul.... Assuming you are using the normal intake manifold mounted stock PCV valve, most likely the rubber diaphragm is "weak"....we all know what happens to rubber exposed to ozone (air) either sitting on a shelf in a parts wharehouse or mounted on an engine which has sat for a long period of time. The high idle along with intermitten excessive "smoking" is almost a dead giveaway. Check that hose between the flame arrester and the PCV valve as well. Rubber develops "hairline" cracks with age. Like most rubber, it lasts longer when used (not abused) while exposed to whatever... MORE


Thanks to all the "start-up" advice, the initial run-in went without a hitch. But a strange problem cropped up. Engine is a fresh high compression 1275 with PCV only. It would run very well for the first few minutes, and then start to belch smoke the likes of which few could imagine. It would do this for a couple minutes, then run normal again. Also, I could not get it to idle below 1200 rpm despite the fact that the carbs were fresh and were properly set up. With throttles CLOSED it still idled at about 1200. After doing... MORE


Stewart It was more to do with the need to meet 'low speed impact regulations' that the 'energy absorbing' bumpers were introduced for the American market, rather than the 'precise' height of the bumpers. It had to pass certain front and rear impact regulations, and that in turn dictated the height of the bumpers and the subsequent raising of ride height. These were 'safety' introductions, introduced soley to pass the new regulations. Likewise the 1500 engine from the Spitfire which would be far easier to modify to meet the 'emission regulations' coming into force than the older A series.... MORE


Believe it or not, Alan... We have legislators (I think a couple in CA tried this?) who, if they could, would pass laws forcing a retrofit of emissions equipment on pre-emission engines (< '68). And we have some who would be only too happy (in the interests of their corporate financial backers) to pass laws outlawing ANY car over 10 years old for use on public highways!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27879... MORE


Peter, Right you are. I wondered if anyone would realize that the distributor drive gear is connected to the camshaft which actually turns the oil pump. Lots of wasted time doing it this way if you ask me. Its your money.....I heard of one fellow that hooked up a presurized bug spray can with oil in it to the oil gauge feed pipe or something and pumped oil through his engine before starting. I heard it killed bugs for miles when he drove by for years afterwards. LOL Really, I think that this is to anal for a common... MORE


I need help. Here's what happened. Began restoration about 10 years ago. Thought it would go faster than it did, so early on I had the engine done. It was built by Dave Tabor of Comptune, the guys who built all the SCCA champ 1275 motors. Anyway, I told Dave I wanted a 1967 street spec high compression engine. I know he used a factory crank and cam. I believe he used aftermarket pistons that he preferred with a compression of about 8.9 to 1. He used a factory non-emission head, redone to run unleaded. Job was completed many... MORE