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Hi guys I'm just getting ready to put the fuel tank back on and on inspecting the fuel feed pipe that goes into the tank itself, I noticed it was pretty corroded and on inspection (er read bending) it broke! No big deal I suspected it was corroded beyond service I just wanted it confirmed! The pipe nut on the end look to be pretty serviceable as does the nipple/flare on the end of the pipe. Question - how is that nipple/flare attached to the pipe? Is it brazed on? glued? compression fitting? Can I reuse it or do... MORE
Terry Come down to Peterborough on Sunday August 1st there is a National BMC Rally at Ferry Meadows (not far from the East of England showground) I will be on the Midget and Sprite club stand you are welcome to park your Spridget on the stand. If you let me know you are coming I will bring the manifold with me so you can take it away and fit it at your leisure and then post me the cast iron one when you are done. Incidentally the BMC rally is a good day out with lots of interesting cars... MORE
Dave Back on line now. Yes I do. How easy would it be for me to drive up to you and swap over the manifolds. Practical or not? What tools would we need? How long to do the job? Waht should I do in advance like make sure the manifold bolts are not stuck fast. Soory for the delay will send my mitigating circumstances direct to you. Thanks Terry "terry.isherwood" 33101... MORE
Terry Do you still want the exhaust manifold or should I just sell it on. Sorry guys I am taking a small liberty with the list since Terry's private email isn't getting me any replies. Best regards Dave "David Dixon" 33098... MORE
I lowered my 1 =BD inches by putting in longer bolts with matching spacers cut from pipe above the spring pans. It is fast, easy and best of all cheap. Nigel is correct, don=92t forget to get grade 8 bolts for the replacements. I took out two bolts opposite each other and put I the longer bolts, then slowly back out the other two short bolts so you always have two bolts holding the spring in place. They can be dangerous. Back out the first two and insert the spacers and snug down then the same with the others.... MORE
Don, You can lower the front buy installing non RB front springs and if that dosen't lower it enough put in spacers between the spring pan and the A-arm. Spacers can be made from some thick (1/4") wall pipe/tubing and longer mounting bolts. Cutting down the front springs would be my last resort. For the rear a spacer block between the axle and spring. The spacer would be a block the width of the spring with a locating stud on it's top to fit the upper spring plate and a hole in the bottom to clear/locate it on the... MORE
G'day Nigel et al As much as I agree with Bob (get a new one) I understand your penchant for originality and budget repairs. So here is an (almost) fail-safe method for freeing seized hydraulic components. (No, Nigel, I'm not being a smart-ass - we all have times where we just have to repair the used bit in front of us.) Take the part in question, let's say it's a clutch slave cylinder, remove all pipes and hoses, clean all the rust and debris out of the cylinder in front of the piston. You need to make it as... MORE
Hi everyone This is a question for anyone with a desmoged late model 1500 engined Midget. As I have kept with original on my '79 1500 I am in need of what is called the Air injection tube for this emissions system. It is a aprox. 1/2" metal tube that runs from the air pump check valve around the back of the cylinder head and screws into the exhaust manifold. It has a large fitting at the manifold and where it fits into the check valve. It is NOT the air rail type tube with the 4 branches to... MORE
Jens, After a complete re-build of my car, including new radiator and cap, I too was loosing water out of the overflow pipe for no apparent reason. The clue lies in the new cap. Although this was rated at the correct pressure (7 psi for early cars, 15 psi for later ones) it turned out to be a modern one with a neck that was too short, so was never seating properly! The easy way to check if yours is seating is to look at the bottom of the rubber seal to see if it has a circular indentation,... MORE
I have a late model Midget, and haven't been able to locate a hot air hose (the hose that connects from under the manifold to the air temp control valve (refer to Haynes p 101, item #16). VB and Moss have them displayed, but not available for sale. Does anyone out there have one that they are willing to part with? Thanks, Pete "Pete Skalski" 32726... MORE
Jens... ...the air valve is the largest moveable part of the SU carb and holds the needle. I have heard people refer to the air valve as a "piston". The butterfly (or it's position) is controlled by your foot and the accelerator cable and is the closest moveable part of the carb closest to the intake manifold. :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32704... MORE
Hello all - Thanks for everybody's advice on my key `problem'. Looks like I'll be getting my set of files out and having a go with the tumblers. I'll let you all know how I get on. By the way, anybody experienced this? I wound down the window a couple of days ago, but the glass stayed at the top as it had separated from the lower channel. Not an expensive problem to resolve, just time consuming as I had to pretty much take the whole door apart to get the glass back in position after replacing the rubber... MORE
I've just fited a 73 Midget motor into my 67 Morris Minor. The smog rails etc have been removed and the ports plugged. Curently, the induction is the stock Minor setup, this will chnage in time, but I want to get the car finished before I go dual carbs and a larger bore exhaust. Anyway, I have 4 distributors, the stock 41400 25D unit, the stock 67 Minor unit, opne from a 64 TR4 and a DM2 from God know what. As far as I can tell *none* of the 4 vacuum advances work. I have removed each and... MORE
Shane, They are supposed to just go on the inlet valve stems. These are the only ones that the pistons are descending on when the valve is open, causing them to suck oil down the guides. On the exhaust valves this, in theory dosn't happen. However on mine it was burning too much oil until I fitted oil seals on the exhaust ones as well. Possibly because of wider tollerance using unleaded fuel valve guides, or maybe because of the cam I was using. Actually I suspect oil was being drawn down the stem and then burning directly in... MORE
I have a 1972 Midget with correct motor. I am working through an issue and I want to replace my valve seals. It looks to me from all of the parts catalogs that on the 1275 there was only a valve seal on the intake valves, and not on the exhaust valves... am I correct in this? Shane "seaaingrayanderson" 32484... MORE
I have an air impact wrench but I don't have a socket that is 1 & 7/8 inches to fit over the nut and didn't care to lay out $20 to buy one. The pipe wrench did less marring of the nut than the cold chisel did. I'm just happy to have it off. Now on to the other one. Nelson in Ohio "Nelson Wittstock" 32456... MORE
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. The bearing nut yielded to a pipe wrench with an 18 inch pipe handle extension. So much for the left side. Now its back to the right side and an uncooperative brake drum. One of the retaining screws came out easily but the second one has thus far resisted my efforts. It will be given more time in its Aerokroil bath before I get out the drill. Nelson - having frustrating fun "witstock7" 32448... MORE
As Gerard said elsewhere, it's for the EGR system for most of the USA and Canada, or in California, there was an additional one for the Catalyst. Going back to earlier cars, they all had an oil filter change warning light, but they went out of fashion in about 67/68. David "David Jacobs" 32349... MORE
Didn't bother to read my post I see. OK, one more time service interval of the EGR valve Turns on the EGR light on your console at 12,500 mile intervals. Gerard "gerardchateau" 32350... MORE
That's usually a pretty easy fix. You can try two things, one at a time. Drain out the oil. Then use a tooth brush and solvent to clean out the threads in the housing. Frequently there are little bits of "stuff" there! Clean the drain plug so it has no trash bits in the threads and wrap it with teflon tape, like the plumbers use, and put the plug back in. Does the trick about 90% of the time. For the remaining 5 or 10%, do the hole cleaning bit AFTER you have run a 1/2" pipe tap in... MORE
Tracks Mileage for the EGR Valve I believe. Reminds you by turning on the check emissions warning light on the console. Gerard "gerardchateau" 32346... MORE
Brad, my rebuilt 1275 smoked blue and I followed all sorts of advice from list members to get it right before I finally fixed it. Of many "cures" attemted, the two that made the most difference in my case were: 1. Replacement of the rocker shaft. Too much oil was leaking out of the rocker bushes. It was apparent by running the engine with the rocker cover off. I left the cork gasket seated on the head and let the engine run at fast tickover. It leaked so fast that it soon created a lake on the top of... MORE
The pcv system should produce a slight vacuum. Remove the oil fill cap and put your hand over the hole with the engine running. You should be able to feel a slight vacuum at idle and also when you increase engine speed. If you feel even slight pressure, you will get oil past the rings (and probably out the rear crank "seal".) "joe blxfstz" 32327... MORE
The 68 STILL burns oil. From cold, the first 5 miles are just little puffs, then it goes into James Bond mode. Not full time, it comes and goes. I tried our shop mechanics idea to determine if the rings are seated. I have the head off, so I put 1" of oil on top of each piston. The oil has not dropped hardly at all in 1 1/2 hours. I can tell from the head, which chambers were burning oil, and the one that was not, has the most significant amount of seepage, almost 1/8", the others are... MORE
Listers, I need to sell off some of my spare parts. I have several 948, 1098 and 1275 engine or partial engines to sell. One 1275 is a complete low mileage, clean and running engine. others are rebuildable cores, but pretty much everything I have is degreased and ready for whatever you'd like to use it for (table base?) I also have several MD 266 cams, mostly the narrow lobe variety for use in 948 or 1098 engines. I also have several used headers. all are the 3 into one type. I also have a complete rear clip from... MORE
