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Hi All, Some of you may have seen or remember the Ginetta that my friend Chuck has built over the last couple years. It is a G35 and only one of two I know about. This car is also on the official Ginnetta (UK) web site as " a V8 Ginetta in the USA". This car has extensive modifications that tremendously improve the design of the car and can easily state not only has the car a one of a kind (most are built with 4 cylinder Ford Pinto engines), but the quality of everything is top notch. Much... MORE
Message: 4 Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 17:19:41 EST From: DLancer7676@... wrote.....that Auto Zone is now carrying brake lines with the proper flares and the fittings for British cars. When I was an apprentice at the Lockheed Brake Co in the 70's. we each had to make a brake pipe flaring tool as part of our machining tests. Not that difficult but getting the angles and radius correct on the tip was the diff icult part. Years later I resurrected the drawings (originally 1950ish )and had a full set made for the R&D department where I was working at... MORE
Thanks for the pics TJ I agree with Trevor - those lower hinge's look particularly bad, are you planning on sorting those out? Also you can get lower rear wing repair sections for those rotted lower rear wings. And your bonnet (hood) has the typical rot spots for that 'double-skinned' area at the front. Was the transmission tunnel reasonably solid, hence your not touching it? I stripped all that crap off my transmission tunnel and yes it took ages! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30203... MORE
Possibly, but I think the problem is not that the clamp is at the wrong angle, but that the header rail is. Because the screen and the header rail are curved, if the rail is canted rearwards then it also becomes too tight to either side of the screen, without clamping up properly towards the centre. The practical solution is to drive with the hood down! Guy "Guy Weller" 29921... MORE
Duncan I've just finished renovating my hood frame. I decided not to strip it back to bare metal like most of the other parts I've done, but to just give it a thorough rub down and coat of primer. The joint areas were the biggest pita, with paint not adhering correctly, but I fixed that with rubbing them all down again and spot priming them with etch primer. Then finished it with 3 coats of gloss black - looks pretty good now. I then spot riveted back the upper hood material 'stays' and the inner 'pop studs' - looks... MORE
No, because what is happening is that the clamps pull the header rail down onto the top of the screen at the wrong angle, - sort of tilted backwards. One symptom of this is the tendancy for the little lug of the clamp to try and jump to the wrong (front) side of the narrow upstand on the rear edge of the screen top rail. Adjusting the wear out of the pivot points means that the header rail is presented to the screen top rail at the correct angle for the clamps to work. I am not argueing this... MORE
Margaret (and others) I am pretty sure that this alsao has something to do with wear in the pivot points and hinges of the frame. This is why I think this... When you operate the clamps on the header rail it has the effect of tilting the front hood rail backwards so that it contacts the metal of the header rail rather than sitting squarely on top of the rubber seal. This is aggrivated by overtight hood fabric, but more significantly by worn pivot points, particularly in the short metal arms that screw to the header rail. I am... MORE
From: Guy Weller [mailto: Guy.Weller@... ] Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 3:51 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Hood rubbers/seals No, because what is happening is that the clamps pull the header rail down onto the top of the screen at the wrong angle, - sort of tilted backwards. One symptom of this is the tendancy for the little lug of the clamp to try and jump to the wrong (front) side of the narrow upstand on the rear edge of the screen top rail. Adjusting the wear out of the pivot points means that the header rail is... MORE
Jens...can't believe you're coincidental timing in asking about paint color "on list" at this particular time...still laughing! :):) While beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I agree. I had a buddy in high school (Ted Owens) who had an MGA '60 1600 in Iris Blue with wire wheels and the "thin" whitewalls which were the rage at the time. VERY pretty car. Retired Navy fighter jock. A4's, Vietnam vet. Cool guy. Bet he still owns/drives this MGA!! It's still Iris Blue. And Nigel my friend...the car is as original as it can be, really. At least it... MORE
LMAO, Paul!! :) OK..you are forgiven!! Seriously, nice upgrade. Cost a few bucks but IMHO, well worth it over the long pull for reasons prev. stated. Much more quiet operation allows for increased enjoyment of the exhaust note!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 29401... MORE
Is it the same manifold on a 1500TC as on a Midget? (or on a Sptifire, come to that?) All the so-called knowledgeable folks' books say the Spitfire had slightly more power than the Midget due to a less restrictive exhaust, because there was more space available under the bonnet for it. Regards David "David Jacobs" 29349... MORE
Not sure. It looks much the same but it is a few years since I parted company with the Yellow 1500 so I am not to sure. Come to think of it I had a tubular 4:2:1 exhaust on that for the last couple of years of ownership as the CI one cracked. Guy "Guy Weller" 29350... MORE
Nigel, I am very afraid to post any pix you could see. The car is in three colors of paint plus the original Brookland green. (Seeing what looked best, ya know). I have lowered the front with 1275 springs but not the rear just yet. I'm running American Racing Mags 5.5 inches with 165 x 70 tires. I've cut off the front bumper supports and sold off the rubber bumpers. The interior is new and pretty well sorted out. McGee runs and drives well except for my often mentioned clutch problem. I will be pulling the engine this spring... MORE
OK, for those (several) who said they are/might be interested, or "grab them anyway", I will do just that and then get back in touch when I know what Mr Rust the scrapman, charges me for them. I'll let you know and then you can decide if you are still interested. I will get carbs, linkeage and manifold. Exhaust manifold as well?? I am in the UK, Lake District Guy "Guy Weller" 29333... MORE
Hmmm....sorry, Alan! Well, I obviously I missed this (must have read it before jumbo Mickey D's "kicked in":) but it's nice to hear another of your experiene agrees, and most especially in that it was a "tuned" unit at that. Too bad to lose the 1098's silky exhaust note for the superior power/revvability of the larger motor. But I do tend to forget about this when I put my foot into the 1293! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 29230... MORE
Dave... I could not agree more with you in your opinion of the running "sweetness" of the 1098 motor. My BE came with a 10cc. My prior experience having been limited mainly to street "tuned" (including balancing) 1275's and too a far lesser degree stock 948's, I was immediately struck by the stock 1098's silky smooth running/exhaust note. Not very strong top end but otherwise, performed just fine, most especially in terms of low end for normal street use. I mentioned the apparent smoother running of the 1098 as compared to the 948/1275 several times over the last couple... MORE
Hi guys And please don't think I'm now restoring a Mini because I'm not ok ! It's about time I updated you folks on how the Midget restoration's coming on. The bodyshell is now about 90% complete in gloss coat, there's a couple of area's I need to deal with and a couple of panels to finish with 90/10 paint/thinners mix, to bring up the gloss. The bootlid has had 5 or 6 coats of 50/50 and now needs some 70/30, and 90/10 coats. Likewise the passenger door. The drivers door, is in primer now awaiting its first gloss... MORE
Hi, Roger.. We do have a lister who has done the Vizard carb (and I believe intake manifold) mods to the stock 1.25SU's. I hope we hear from him. Supposedly with these street mods, the 1.25 set-up will match the flow rate of a stock pair of 1.5's. The foregoing notwithstanding, Vizard improvements are flow bench tested/verified. Today, David is semi- retired working on "improving" American V-8's!! (and did objective testing as well on Oil Extreme...like Grassroots, good results!:). Following Vizard's engine building advice (though substituting a 45DCOE with 38mm throats) I spec'd. a "fast road" 1340 for my... MORE
Hi folks! I have just purchased a 1977 MG Midget 1500 in what I can only describe as 'tired' condition. Although it has an MOT it does have a few faults, and as I am not in the least bit mechanically minded I need some advice as to what repair is required. There is a water leak coming from the engine in quite a steady stream from somewhere at the top of the engine below the head: it is a bit difficult to see exactly where as it is obscured by the manifold and carbs.The water temperature gauge on... MORE
Jim, I think Nigel & I use much the same system, although I would remove the whole lot, axle and springs as a single unit. It is easy enough for one person to manage. Jack the car up and support on axle stands close to, but not obstructing, the mounting plates for the front end of the rear springs. Use a timber support to spread the load if you can, but it isn't really essential. Get it reasonably high enough to give working space underneath. Support the axle on a trolly jack under the centre point of the diff.... MORE
Don... Is the '73 vac. cannister supposed to be ported to a carb or ported to the intake manifold? 'Cause if it's not the original dizzy and it's a mix and match set-up and you get it the wrong way round, the symptoms you got would be the symptoms you'd get. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28478... MORE
Whitewalls!! Cool. For the American market I guess. They were wide then went "thin". Spridget "double muffler".... yep...a general trend to more quiet operation after '68. Noise is after all, an "emission"! Price? Peformance and fuel economy. (You can't even hear the exhaust note of a new Cooper "S"...'cause it really doesn't hardly exist...very "stealthy"! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28462... MORE
Around 1970 the single muffler was changed to a dual muffler system. I find no reference in any of my books as to why this was done? Did some new government regulation require a lower noise level? I do know that at some point a PO of my 73 installed a single muffler and it is, for my ears, far too loud and not very resonate sounding. My 74 still has the dual muffler system on it and while sounding like a sports car is not so harsh, particularly at highway speeds. Just curious as usual. Don "Don May"... MORE
Steve Woohoo! Many congrats. I don't think I am ahead of you Steve, I'm just finishing off the final primer coats on the passenger side wing ready for colour - that will be the last 'bit' on the car that needs to be colour coated. I still have both doors, bootlid and bonnet to colour coat as well. I don't know if you have this book or not - 'Restoring Sprites and Midgets - an Enthusiasts Guide' by Grahame Bristow (Brooklands Books) but it really is a very useful book in terms of reassembly. It's been written with the... MORE
Good lord this is a cold natured 8itchy car until she gets warm. I was finally able to take her to the mechanic today for the cracked slave cylinder boot. It's 30 degrees in Memphis, TN which doesn't make me happy because she has no top on. I bundle up, go out and crank her up. I'm sure she was cussing me because every once in a while I could almost understand a few words coming out of the engine compartment and certainly a few from the exhaust. I forgive her considering how cold it is and that I'd... MORE
