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Rick The answers to these questions are as long as they are short! I can tell you what I did, but I'm not sure it will help you in your situation. I stripped all my interior paint back to bare metal using Nitromors paint stripper, washed it down with water, dried it, cleaned it all with a wire brush zip wheel in an angle grinder, sprayed it with etch primer, high build primer filler and finally top coat. I removed the carpet glue and (one of the worst jobs of the lot) the underseal/bitumen panels on the trans tunnel... MORE
Jens, Maybe..... Condensation is collecting in your silencer (muffler). Only when you have run the engine for a little while does this warm up enough for the condensed water to evaporate and produce the white cloud. Still possible that it is originating from a fault with the head gasket, allowing water to leak through into the cylinders, but not causing an obvious leak to the outside or mixing of oil and water. Have you tried a compression test? Guy "Guy Weller" 32108... MORE
"tribilogist"??? Jeeze Alan, talk English for chrissake!! :):) I use fully synthetic "Oil Extreme" in my 1293 which used Valvoline 10/40 min. oil on initial break-in. No difference in water vapor upon initial start. Engines with cats produce very hot exhaust gases...what temp do cats operate at? Hot enough so you must be cautious when parking them over grassy areas? Really hot!! Otherwise, how are you this morning? (Err, you're mid-afternoon!:). Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32112... MORE
"Maybe condensation...." Absolutely!! As previously mentioned... a normal part of start up from cold in the morning, most definitely with a car left outside overnight, and most definitely in cool, damp weather. Problem is, I'm "over here", Guy Weller is "over there" and Jens is somewhere else! So we can't see what Jens is looking at under these circumstances in terms of "extent". Is it normal, or "abe normal" (courtesy, "Young Frankenstein":) It sounds abnormal considering it happens every morning to a great extent, whether the ambient air is "dry" or "wet". The engine warms up after a couple... MORE
There is another possibility - do you have a brake servo fitted? With some types, if this is faulty, it's possible to suck brake fluid into the inlet manifold - I think that can burn grey/white. David "David Jacobs" 32096... MORE
Hey all. Yes, it's Graziano. Frankenstein@... is my "dummy" address for yahoo groups. Please respond directly as I'm on the digest. Midget 1500 with twin HS4s, 285 cam, .30 over, head work, 13 row oil cooler, and headers.. As I mentioned a while back, I'm having trouble with the car getting hot here in Tx, which is causing vapor lock. I'm re-installing the original 3 row staggered radiator, and standard water pump with an electric fan. 1) should I wire the fan straight to the ignition so that it runs when the key is in the "on" position whether... MORE
Blackish/Grey you say? Well ALLRIGHTY THEN, Jens...it's not oil!! :):) Oil is bluish in color and "stays" in the air. and....the exhaust definitely smells of burning oil (and not unburnt gasoline). Whitish/grey (or gray) is water which is a byproduct of combustion and along with condensation within the exhaust system is produced most abundantly when a "cold" motor (overnight sit, fr'instance) is initially fired up, most definitely on those cool, humid mornings when it tends to stay in the air rather than more immediately evaporate as it does in "drier" air. Black is definitely unburnt gasoline which we get... MORE
I am on the point of summoning up the courage to replace my Mk IV Sprite's tatty old hood with new fabric. A couple of questions for anyone who has already done this: 1. What sort of glue should I use to fix the fabric to the header rail? 2. Is there anywhere I can get the grey paint for the hood frame? Thanks in advance. Tede "tede4uk" 32070... MORE
(Sorry folks forgot the subject header last time.) A couple questions mostly for the racers in the group, but also any gearbox gurus. 1)Gear box whine: Got my retired racer, soon to be vintage racer Bugeye out for a quick (illegal) run down the road tonight. I have a rib case BMC competition (straight cut, non synchro) close ratio gear box. It whines VERY loudly in 1st through 3rd gears. 4th very was quiet. I wasn't surprised or worried about 1st & 2nd being noisy, but expected 3rd to be quiet. The two tracks I'm going to be running... MORE
"Surely they should last....." Depends upon use over time. As we know, when they sit (especially "unprotected"), certain items not only continue to wear, they wear at an accelerated rate due to lack of lubrication along with "water within" (condensation, etc.). My car sat outside (but under a cover) a good part of last winter which in these parts, was uncharacteristically very cold. But the vehicle was started, thoroughly warmed and "moved" (shocks, brakes, etc.) at least once a week. Also, the exhaust outlet was kept covered while the car "sat". First thing we did before taking it out... MORE
I usually push my Sprite out of the garage each morning before I set off. The garage has an interconnecting door to the kitchen so I try to minimise the exhaust fumes in there. The point is this. It is quite heavy to push. The brakes are not binding and the tyre pressures are at 24 / 22. It should weigh in at about 1520 Pounds (Sprite,1971) By comparison, my daughter's Peugeot 106 has a kerb weight of 1675 Pounds and rolls very easily, you hardly have to lean on it. So what views are there on minimising rolling... MORE
Jens Indeed, you can release more power from having a more efficiently flowing intake manifold but you don't have to modify your existing one. There's plenty of aftermarket ones that do the job as well if not better than modifying the standard manifold. I've often seen them popping up on ebay - worth keeping an eye out for one. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 31939... MORE
To add to the fund of general wisdom, I got my dual carb setup for my 75 Midget from a 1300 Spitfire. The manifold and carbs fit the 1500 perfectly. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 31914... MORE
My reasoning for going with a DCOE is for the following: 1. It was originally fed by a Zenith Stromberg carb for the 1500 midgets. I'm doing a complete restoration on the car, however, between the engine that came with the car (with a thrown rod) and the one I purchased to rebuild, neither came with a carburetor or a distributor. 2. I want to get rid of the zenith stromberg =) The engine is a basic 1500 engine. Stock cam in it, 9:1 compression and .020" overbore from the rebuild. Currently no head porting or anything done to... MORE
Why can you not use manifold vacuum? David "David Jacobs" 31867... MORE
It can be done, you just have to drill and tap the manifold. But the usual reason for putting on a DCOE is for performanc, not economy. The vacuum advance is an economy device used at low throttle positions, hence high vacuum conditions. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 31869... MORE
This might sound is bit odd.. try taping over 3/4 ish of both ram pipe intakes with gaffer (duct) tape. you might need to cover more than 3/4. This should do the same as the choke, once it is running and has gotten a bit warm you should be able to take it off One other thing, are the pistons in the carbs moving? this can sometimes cause similar to what you are experiencing Stewart "Ford Prefect" 31770... MORE
Hi guys! I need some help here. I have a problem with my newly installed 1275 engine, what happens is that when the car is warming up with the choke out everything is normal - just the normal amount of smoke from the exhaust. But when the engine is getting warmer and the choke is pushed gradualy back it starts smoking clouds og grey smoke especially when i give it throttle, it only lasts for a short while then its back to normal. Could this be condensation causing it? Cheers Jens Jens P. Maudal jens.maudal@... Greetings from "BottomsUp Brewery"... MORE
As I inspected the transmission area on the sprite I noticed an extra hole on each side of the tunnel at about where the shift stick protrudes. Looks like the holes have pop rivet covers, about 6x6 inches, in place. Is this supposed to be or are they likely a PO's access places? cheers, bill b 1969 Sprite (Bilby) /\ /\ o o 0 William Burrell 31630... MORE
Hi Michael Blanking off the pipes would do the trick and thats what I did initially. I used a couple of suitably tight fitting bolts held in place with jubilee clips...a very nice job or so I thought until the chilly Autumn came! "James" 31533... MORE
Hi These heater taps are no longer in production, I had the same trouble with mine. I bought a nice looking second hand one complete with the mounting bracket and the little metal pipe that goes on the other side, but that too leaked...even worse than the original!! In the end I used my existing metal pipe and the metal pipe from the new (second hand)one to essentially bypass the tap altogether. The heater is now permanatly on and I control the airflow by pulling out the heater control on the dash and by opening/shutting the footwell flaps. This... MORE
David There's a picture in my August folder in Nigels-71-Midget photo folder where you can just about see where I removed the floor around the trans tunnel - you can just see the weld round it and the new floor. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 31502... MORE
David Aha ! Well thats the other way round. My first piece of advice to you then is to do the inner and outer sills *before* you put in the new floor. Body rebuilds on monocoque cars need to be done around the door gaps - there's a possiblity you'll lock the car into a new shape by welding in the floor before you've done the inner and outer sills and then find the door won't fit properly, or you have problems getting the door to fit. Do the sills first - get the door gaps right - weld... MORE
Nigel I posted the original question and I seem to have confused a few of the guys who were kind enough to take the time to try to help me out. The floor is rotted away from the outside in, I will be replacing both inner and outer sills however the left and right hand floor panels would not (even if welded together) create a new one piece floor, they are not wide enough. The panels are designed to be welded to the centre section of the floor which is under the centre tunnel and never goes rusty. In... MORE
Ben, ive got one of these on my 1500, it does make a difference. However, the precision (or lack thereof) in its manufafcture made it very very diffcult to fit (lots of heating and bending to get pipes that should mate up properly to do just that). However, this has obviousley come off a car so it might be ok. The standard peco back box for this system is very loud. I don't have a problem with it but some passengers do! You;ll need richer needles once youve put this on btw. If your cars lowered, then like me... MORE
