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Hi Colin, Thanks for the info on the head gasket. Upon close inspection, I found that there was an exhaust leak from the #4 cylinder out the side away from the pushrods and exiting up the back corner stud!! There was also coolant leakage through at least 5 of the coolant passages. This prompted some pitting on the cyl head so I had it resurfaced. The block seems to be OK in that respect. The threads had also lifted a bit on the block where the studs fit because they were quite tight and the threaded holes not chamfered.... MORE
Ben, My 1500 has Peco exhaust, oil cooler but no magnetronic ignition or kenlowe fan, from Nov 2002 until Oct 2003 it was in daily use and i covered 15000 miles in that time as well as several large jouneys includng Le Mans and back which all told was 1000 miles in 4 days. (I'm in the UK) My car is far from perfect but regular and pre-emtive maintainance is the key to reliablility. Once you've ironed out all the faults that the previous owners failed to take care of (in my case my own brother!) its pretty easy... MORE
Chris... I think it's strictly a matter of waiting for the "right" person to come along (ebay?). The 10cc (2" main) is the "preferred" engine for those restoring originally equipped 1098 machines. It is also the smoothest running Series A (IMHO). They've got a silky smooth, "sweet" exhaust note not found in the more "square" motors. My BE came equipped with a "10cc". I sold it for $1K (it was in excellent shape) to a guy who was restoring a '65 Sprite when I replaced it with the current Cooper "S" spec 1293. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30859... MORE
Richard, UK spec cars with this exact set-up didn't use a PCV valve Guy "Guy Weller" 30820... MORE
Hi, Rich.... The emissions "tubes" on the later carbs. are in and of themselves, "graduated orifices" and thus, no PCV valve is required in the "line" between flame arrester and carb(s). :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30813... MORE
Listers - My current project Midget (75) has no motor or trans, I'm searching for alternate powertrains to transplant into it, does anyone have photos, info or web sites they have run across on hot rodded Midgets they could pass along to me? Currently have a Ford 2.0 litre 4 cylinder with matching 4 speed, but looking at other options, plan on looking around for a 2.3L Ford 4 cyl with a five speed, which could be transplanted without too much hassle. Ford 2.3L turbo motor would be nice too, but don't want to spend a ton of cash,... MORE
Hi, Snakeperson... The stock (rubber) diaphragm is "good" if you can remove the filtered (containing a "graduated" orifice) cap and the idle increases about 200rpm. The first sign (usually) of a worn out rubber diaphragm is, of course, an exhaust suddenly smoking and an enigne suddenly using a helluva lot of oil, both for apparent no good reason at all. Not familiar with the "quacking duck" type of PVC valve! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30795... MORE
How can you test and see if the PCV diaphragm is good? I have two, one I KNOW will allow the car to smoke, when I gently blow on the tube that connects to the oil separator, it passes air out of the hole on the top plate. Another one that I just got, when I gently blow in the same orifice, it makes a sound like a quacking duck. Does either one of these sound like they are ok? I finally have the correct intake for the 68, as well as all the smog stuff. Call me paranoid,... MORE
Hi Kevin Welcome to the group. This group is for all 'Spridgets' and many here are Frog owners, but you may like to try the other group specifically for Frogs - http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bugeye/ Yeah I don't know why those nutty Americans call them Bugeye's either ;) You may also want to check out Terry Horler's excellent book - Original Sprite and Midget, published by Bay View Books, ISBN 1-870979-45-1 This book has an excellent restorers section on Frogeyes and many of your answers will be found there. I'm not an expert on Frog's - there's many here you know a... MORE
Hi there, Just signed up to this site. Last year got myself a '59 frogeye for a groundup restoration (definately not a runner!!). I think it spent its initial life in sunny Houston Texas before being repatriated to uk. It then apparently stood sometime before I got my hands on it. Anyway thats the history lesson. Taking it steady with the bodywork last year but getting there slowly (taught myself to TIG weld - a very neat way to weld!). I am spending time on indoor work because UK garages in the winter aren't fun - and I'm getting... MORE
Hi there, Just signed up to this site. Last year got myself a '59 frogeye for a groundup restoration (definately not a runner!!). I think it spent its initial life in sunny Houston Texas before being repatriated to uk. It then apparently stood sometime before I got my hands on it. Anyway thats the history lesson. Taking it steady with the bodywork last year but getting there slowly (taught myself to TIG weld - a very neat way to weld!). I am spending time on indoor work because UK garages in the winter aren't fun - and I'm getting... MORE
Nigel, pardon me for ignorence but where do those grease drenched felt washer for the handbrake mechanism go, is it inside the handle support? Jens Bill Strangely enough, I had planned on doing work on my rear axle yesterday, mainly to install the brake pipes but I had a few other jobs to do as well, such as re-installing the circlip that 'pinged' off! I had already bought two of the original type circlips for this and also bought some circlip pliers for the job. I have to say it was about a 5 second job to install those... MORE
Yes, that is a tricky job. The 1/2" open end is what you need but be careful because of lack of space down there you can only turn it a couple flats at a time. Getting the nut back on...................... Well that's the real challenge. If you are doing it for the first time be prepared to spend some time getting it right. It took me a few times walking away and taking a break from it. You need hands that are not too large and get one had down there, one on each side, with your fingers on... MORE
Bill Strangely enough, I had planned on doing work on my rear axle yesterday, mainly to install the brake pipes but I had a few other jobs to do as well, such as re-installing the circlip that 'pinged' off! I had already bought two of the original type circlips for this and also bought some circlip pliers for the job. I have to say it was about a 5 second job to install those circlips - went on sweet as a nut - no problems, so much so I took the other 'e' clip off and installed the other... MORE
G'day all Steve, DO NOT USE COPPER PIPE FOR YOUR BRAKE LINES. Copper "work hardens" under vibration, becomes brittle, and breaks. This happens particularly at the point where the pipe exits the tube nuts. It will not happen overnight, but it will happen. In the last month I have had to replace pipes in three cars that suddenly lost all brake pressure. All three had fractured copper brake pipes. Steel pipe is a bitch to bend, but it will last your lifetime (and maybe extend it). avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 30614... MORE
James You're most welcome. Yes, a hood with the header rail already fitted will push up the cost considerably. I've refurbished my header rail and will be using that. I'm in total agreement with your dad re MGOC. They're way too commercial now, they need to get back to basics and focus their attention on their members needs, not what Roche Bentley wants to do. As an MG Membership club, is it morally right for them to 'vet and rate' suppliers of products and services to MG owners whilst at the same time offering those services via the club... MORE
Many thanks for your reply Nigel. I have had good dealings with Moss in the past and I would tend to agree that they only deal with good quality components. You are quite right that the Moss hoods are around =A3140, the price that I was originally looking at was for the hood and header rail......... That would certainly explain why i thought that they were expensive compared to the competition! Job for the summer though. Fitting a vinyl hood in cold conditions is never a good idea, as I have found out before! Although having never had much... MORE
Jens No they're not 'original' but they look it - you can't tell the difference between steel and cupro/nickel, so unless you tell anyone...however, no problems spotting copper ones huh? At the end of the day you don't need to be a slave to originality unless you intend to compete in 'concours' events, which I don't. My adherence to 'originality' is for my own benefit, because I want to keep my car as 'original' as I can. That doesn't mean that because cupro/nickel alloy brake pipes wern't used at the factory they can't be used now. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30606... MORE
Jens Depends on how much vibration the pipe is subjected to, it can go brittle and break if it's been allowed to vibrate - make sure its firmly clamped down. Cupro/nickel alloy is the best stuff to use - doesn't go brittle and doesn't rust - but is expensive! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30597... MORE
Chris Thank's for your input. Yes, I can imagine 1/4" steel pipe is a pain to bend, the 3/16" cupro/nickel was bad enough! I trace the route of the pipe with some string, including all the bends and then add about 6 inches, and cut that length, I still usually have to trim that back to fit, so no problems on lengths. Thanks for the tip on the autojumbles, but its not really an option - I simply don't have the time to trawl around atuojumbles right now - I just want to get on and get the car... MORE
I have just bought a ready made up 1/4" copper pipe that i will fit very soon. I have heard that they might split with age but what sort of age are we talking about here, i have seen copper pipes used elsewere that have lasted for donkers years with no problem. Jens Age hardening/work hardening, will then split. R "jens maudal" 30578... MORE
Hi guys I'm at the stage now where I'm about to fit the fuel line to the Midget. The brake lines have been done in 3/16" cupro/nickel alloy and I was going to do the fuel line in this as well, but having just seen the price of a 25' roll of 1/4" cupro/nickel pipe =A333 ($60) of which I'll probably only use about 6 or 7 feet of seems a bit excessive! Specially when 25' roll of 1/4" steel pipe is only =A310 ($18). Any thoughts? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30569... MORE
Nigel... Copper, nickel, whatever! All good stuff but in any case, there is always a little water present within to one extent or the other? So, like the exhaust system, the "piping" can "wear" to one extent or another from either side? :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30584... MORE
Wouldn't this defeat the purpose of a "firewall" seperating the engine from the passenger compartment? Also if there was an exhaust leak there is the risk of carbon monoxide poisioning. Something that can sneak up on you. Mark 68 midget "MARK" 30462... MORE
G'day Jim Thanks for the update. Now it becomes clear to me. It must be the fact that we are Down Under and you are Up Over. You ask the purpose of the elephant's trunk. Well of course, it's to breath, or inhale. Well just under the rear end of the Sprite or Midget, (call it trunk or boot as you will) we have a pipe, a round hole anywhere between 1.25" and 2.5". Down Under, it is to breath out of. Clearly, Up Over it is to breath in through - hence the reference "trunk" - to breath... MORE
