MAIN
Exhaust System
Previous Page | Next Page
Has anyone tried the modifications listed in the bl st manual? I mean adding twin hs4 SU carbs, a race distributor (part number C-27H7766), a head with 9.5:1 compression, and a free flow exhaust? The performance figures make this look tempting. Too bad I dont see anything about gas milege or emissions (in the unites staes this can be an issue. "gan5ub91179g" 36012... MORE
If it's a standard A+ head, the valves are 1.3" Inlet/1.15" Exhaust; or if it's from an MG Metro it should have had 1.4" inlets. With no other changes, your AAC needles should be somewhere close, or you could try ACE ones (a bit richer in the mid range but leaner at the top end), but in any event, a trip to the rolling road is well worthwhile to get the car set up. Make sure it's someone who knows SU carbs - you don't want to be paying for his time while he learns! David "David Jacobs" 36003... MORE
Big? How big? The Cooper S had 1.4 intake and 1.2 exhaust valves (1.3 and 1.15 are considered stock for "A" series engines) and it was very steetable with standard rockers and the correct jetted carbs. What you gained was topend grunt without losing much in the lower rev range. "Jim" 36001... MORE
I rebuild mine and consider myself a C- mechanic. After jacking up the R side, it is accessed thru the large rubber plug on the R side of the tunnel. For me it was just time consuming since you'll have to bleed afterwards. One trick I used was to put a piece of plastic wrap (rubber banded) around the top of the master before you open the bleed nipple on the slave, as this will keep most of the fluid in the system instead of on your garage floor. You will still have to bleed the system, but at... MORE
Frequently, people jack and adjust the alignment to the doors fit perfectly, then carefully weld a piece of pipe or angle iron from the front of the door opening to the rear, just tack it in, on both sides and then form an "X" from the front of one door opening to the rear of the other door opening and visa versa. Would not hurt to tack these two pieces together where the "X" crosses also. Then before doing anything else, re measure and or fit the doors in place to double check a perfect fit. With out the... MORE
Well Herb, et al. The Company is a consulting engineering outfit called Ricardo . http://www.ricardo.com/investorCentre/investorCorpProfile.asp Started life pre WW1 when the founder doubled the efficiency of diesel engines in the very first WW1 tanks.(I understand the exhaust exited in the tank also , so the enemy wouldn't see them coming - the early tank crews did not last long !!! He used his experience on improving early Triumph motorcycles, on combustion chamber shape mainly and camshafts (Along with Weslake). "Alan" 35852... MORE
Aside from Margaret's suggestion of the Heritage certificate, you can probably find the original colour on hard-to-get-at places such as up underneath the dashboard top area, inside the transmission tunnel or inside the heater ducts in the footwells; all places that are unlikely to get repainted in a casual paint job. For the factory colour code, there's pretty much only one of each shade for any given year of manufacture, and this year can be obtained from the chassis number. There are tables of the codes available in various books, or http://www.teglerizer.com/mgcolors/ has a good visual indication of most... MORE
My Mk1 Midget, which I have just sold, left the factory as RHD, went to the USA, was converted to LHD, and 30 years later came home and was re-converted back to RHD. There appears to have been no alterations to the tunnel. BTW, when she reaches her new home in Austria, she will no doubt be LHD once again!! Margaret South Lincolnshire (UK) "May you be in Heaven half an hour before the Devil knows you're dead" mmbrock88@... 35739... MORE
Hi all,I am building a 59 bugeye with a datsun 5 speed and parts from a 72 midget.The 1275 is a smog head 72 motor and I was just wondering if anybody knows a mild street way to build this motor.I would like a mild street cam ,am planing on a header and punching the block 20 over.I have the vizards book but its a lot to digest.He says MG metro pistons work fine but thats only 8.8 to 1 cr.I think I would like to have about 10 to 1 C.R..I don't think My motor has ever been... MORE
Spence - Guess that would be me, progress has slowed due to cold weather (hard to heat the garage with a small space heater) and the holidays and all, the frame strengthening is almost finished and I'm gathering parts to begin construction on the headers & steering. I've finally removed a complete motor from a donor car, up until now I've been using a junk block and heads to fab the mounts, I hope to finish the frame rails in the next couple of weeks and get the motor & trans back in the car, I'll take a few... MORE
Yeah... California has really gone over the top on classic car "emissions". It's all part of a political agenda in this particular respect, obviously. Has nothing to do with air polution really. I mean my Vizardized '74 1340 almost made it by CT emissions and was only "out" by 50 ppm hydrocarbons or less than .05 CO, depending upon which side of the correct ignition timing we chose to go. And this thing had a VP3 cam, 45DCOE and got 90+hp to the rear wheels. When properly tuned and maintained, most emissions non-equipped vehicles can get by the criteria... MORE
Mitch..IMHO.... if you are going to use the Judson, I would call APT and source the best quality valve they have to offer. Otherwise, unless you've got a hairy cam in there or are running 10.0-1 or a higher static compression ratio, standard quality/design should be fine normally aspirated. About oversized exhaust valves....many moons ago when the first 1275 Cooper S types came out, they went with a larger 1.4 intake valve and subsequently, went to a larger than stock exh.valve to "match", feeling this would give more powe r. It didn't. What it did do was lead to... MORE
Hello friends, I am in the middle of a rebuild of my Midget's Weber DGV. This is far from the first DGV I have rebuilt but this time I thought I would share a few pictures and a couple of references. Here is what Pierce Manifolds recommended for the DGV 5A in the Midget 1500 application: Jetting for DGV 5A main 140/135 e-tube F50/F6 air corr 155/160 idle 55/60 needle & seat 200 My carb is correct except for the air corrector jets. My car has installed a 165 primary air corrector jet and a 160 secondary corrector jet.... MORE
Jens.... What, pray tell, are you waiting for? Install the oil pressure limiting valve NOW and you will answer your own question! :) The answer is probably yes. And MAYBE it will also solve that puff of smoke you get out the exhaust after driving from cold a mile or so down the road? But have you changed to a fresh rubber diaphragm within the valve? And don't tell me the valve is new so you don't have to!!! :) Are you (per Guy's post) using the filtered plastic oil filler cap as well? Higher than required oil pressure... MORE
And what about the 5.1 to 1 ???? I have got one and its got a strange housing, no ribs in the outside and nothing to bolt the brake pipe to. Beckers 1330 "beckers" 33427... MORE
"How much oil...PCV valve" Well, it's been a long time since I've used one in my "ventilated" motors but as I recall from my '67 MGB, they look pretty much soaked in oil under the rubber diaphragm. Perhaps somebody else can confirm this for me or let us know differently. I gotta go back 30 years for this one! Anyway, if the idle comes up a goodly amount when you remove the oil filler cap, all is well PCV-valvewise, Jens. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33342... MORE
Fellas! I just have to tell you this, its probably old news to most of you but anyway. As you know i have been having problems lately (yet again), the symtoms were many and hard to make out. Well today the ba***rd fouled again and wouldnt run properly just like it was running on only 3 cyl. We are now 110% certain that its the petrol causing it. What happens is when the engine has reached normal temprature and i stop (with engine running) or drive very slowly the temp rise very fast (15-20F) and the engine starts fouling.... MORE
Jens, Great, did you beat him? What kind of Porsche? You might try and do a test before doing a new fuel pump. Try and take 6 or 8 layers of kitchen aluminum foil, crumple it a bit so you have some air space between layers and wrap either the fuel pump and/or the exhaust pipe. You might try and go one step further and take a wet red shop rag and wrap the fuel pump first then wrap in layers of foil. You can also take one or two layers of beer can cut open and wire it... MORE
Jens, If you "kick the PCV" it will leak oil. It needs that to prevent / minimise oil leaks, particularly from the rear crankshaft "seal" Are you using a vented oil filler cap? You should be, which allows entry of air to ventilate the crankcase. If you are using a sealed filler cap it could make it pull too much oil vapour through Guy "Guy Weller" 33290... MORE
Jens... Dyno There ya' go!!! About time!!!! A dyno session(s) is part of a "tuned" engine rebuild. It's the last part, to be specific. The ignition advance curve (rate) is exactly opposite of what works in a mildly cammed stock engine, considering the cylinder filling characteristics (torque curve) of the "hairier" performance cam profile is "back to front" when compared to the stock cam. PCV valve Again, are you running the factory stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve fed from the can on the timing chain cover? If you are, and it is "new", it MAY be "NOS" or... MORE
Jens... Timing..... I am an adult. So talk specifics to me. How "overadvanced" was the total timing from 30 degrees? Give me numbers. PCV valve.... Assuming you are running a stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve with a rubber diaphragm (and it's compatible "filtered" plastic oil filler cap), excessive oil burning would be the product of the rubber diaphragm which has become "porous". They can "look good" even when they're worn out. Replace same and you're done with this. :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33278... MORE
Jens, If it is SUs then what you describe could be caused by worn throttle spindles. This makes the carbs seem very sensitive to mixture settings. If you richen the settings to compensate at low engine speeds, then at full throttle it will be too rich and will bog down or foul the plugs. If you weaken, then at full manifold depression it will pull in air at the spindle and run too weak, causing it to run hotter Guy "Guy Weller" 33249... MORE
Nigel, You are too kind. Most glaring mistake was installing the throttle and choke linkages backwards. My only excuse is that I've never worked with dual carbs before. I also had to reset the float in one carb as it leaked gas out the intake. FYI-I set the mixture at 2.5 turns from flush and was pretty close to right on. The motor runs about 15-20 dgs. cooler and sounds better and is definitely more responsive. Haven't driven the car yet as I have to build a throttle cable bracket tonight or tomorrow. Then it's a road test and... MORE
Hi guys The parts from Burlen arrived this morning and I was able to finish off rebuilding the carbs and mount them onto the manifold and heatshield. For those of you interested I've uploaded a pic of them into Nigels-71Midget folder in the photo's section of the Yahoo group webpage. And yes I know the linkages aren't in position in the picture - they are now! I also uploaded a picture of the wear on the throttle spindle to show just how much wear there was - a lot, but thankfully no wear to the car body. Nigel "amukdigiphoto"... MORE
Nigel, I don't remember what your car is, But FWIW... I had a similar problem with my Bugeye, My car came disassembled and the fuel tank fiting was not included. By trial and leak, I found that (USA terms) a standard tubing thread, copper compression fitting works. V.B. says that the same fits 65-74, and that the same pipe nut also fits 75-79, so I would assume that this should work in your car. I used copper tubbing from gas tank to carbs, (1 1/2" :() ), which is not stock, but is easier to bend and doesn't rust.... MORE
