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Gentlemen - Currently working on headers/exhaust for my V8 MG Midget (Buick 215), was wonder what type of clearance between the bottom of the floor and the top of the exhaust pipes I should have, and wether to use heat shields or not? Also I notice the big thing these days is to use an x-pipe, is this a big advantage or not worth the extra effort? Also any recommendations on mufflers? Looking for somethin small in diameter (2" exhaust pipes?) & cheap like a glass pack "Thrush", want a deep throaty european sound? Had a MGB in school... MORE
Hi I have noticed for quite awhile the faint smell of coolant while the engine is running. No dripping or smoke from the block. More like that "pissing" thing they do. In the process of changing the carbs and now have a clear view of the teltale rust trail coming from the front side of the head (manifold side). should I?? Crack all the head bolts a 1/2 turn then retourque everthing Just retorque now,possibly finding a loose head bolt in that area. I will probably end up having to do the new gasket but thought it may be... MORE
Unless you have an aversion to removing the water pump, I'd just go ahead and replace the head gasket at this point, based on my experience with "quick fixes" in this area. The hard part is already done - removing the carbs & manifold. An oil change is always healthy. However, if you do want to try the re-torquing bit, from what i have read/heard, you should do one bolt at a time - loosen and retorque - in a specific order (as listed in Haynes & Bentley manuals). Cracking all the bolts at once will allow the oil... MORE
Dear Listers, Since folks seemed to have so much fun with carb adjusting let me try and keep the ball rolling. What would be anyone's best guess on a timing setting for a 1500 engine with dual 1.25 carbs, 2 inch exhaust and the lower U.S. compression? My Haynes gives anything from 10dgs BTDC (UK spec) to 2 dgs.ATDC in stock US single carb tune. I'm just not happy with the way the motor runs in all ranges and am trying to set a baseline timing. Any input is appreciated. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the... MORE
Vince....I may be mis-understanding your terms, but here goes..... Off hand, it sounds like the front carb is "weak" while the rear carb is "correct" or maybe a little rich. Don't forget, these are "interdependent" considering they're "connected" by a "balance" tube. Therefore it is possible for one carb to run the whole show....IOW, one "weak" and one maybe "overly" rich. For BOTH carbs..... the result with proper mixture should be a slight initial rise in rpm (50 or so) followed by a return to the prior i dle speed as the air valve is "held" less than 1/8"... MORE
Dear Spridgetland, Before I operate I wanted to throw this our for comment or ideas. Dear old McGee, my 75 Midget now has dual 1.25 carbs and a manifold from a 1300 Spit. New carb needles have been installed and the motor runs well except..........it idles at 2000rpm! I've sprayed down the intake connections to head and carbs with WD and couldn't detect a leak. Other info: The motor may have accidentally ingested foam air cleaner material( I wont say how but it was stupid). The motor idled at the proper rpm when I first got it going then... MORE
Terry, the hoses go in place of the rigid pipe from the block to the filter head and the cooler itself usually goes in the nosecone in front of the radiator. For remote filter units, look at MGB V8 conversions (and factory V8s) as they use them - absolutely no room for an engine mounted filter there. David "David Jacobs" 36635... MORE
David I did measure it and it was not that easy to be exact but it was going to be tight or not go. Will try for a conventional oil cooler. Does it go in place of the pipe from the block (banjo fitting) to the top of the oil filter screw on bit? Mind you I do like the idea of a remote oil filter, perhaps I could put it where I can easily get to it.where can I get details, looked on MGOC but did not see it. terry Terry Isherwood Essex UK "Terry Isherwood" 36634... MORE
I now have two original hardtops that I'm going to paint. I have a question, both tops have cracks in the gelcoat. I believe from flexing. The fibeglass is perfect, no cracks whatsoever. What I am wondering, is with those gelcoat cracks, what is the best way to get them ready for paint such that the gelcoat cracks won't propagate into the new paint. Do I need to strip it down to the bare fibeglass? What stipper works the best? Any help would be appreciated. One top will be stock to match the car, the other will be checkered... MORE
If it is the 215 ci all alloy Buick V8 then you can get MG badged rocker covers and twin SUs for it!, it is the exact same engine that became the Rover 3.5 litre V8 and powers most range rovers and the MGB GTV8 hence Moss will sell you some rocker covers with MG cast in them that will bolt striaght on the engine. Although 200BHP stock is proabbly Gross rating, not the modern DIN, probbly more like 150 if you want to use the modern ratings. Even the Twin Plemumn SD1 Rover Vitesse only had 220BHP DIN!... MORE
Listers - The enigine/trans is a 1963 all aluminum Buick V8, 215 ci. (I'm told the 4barrel carbed ones are high compression, something like 11 to 1 and are good for a stock 200hp) The trans is a Borg-Warner T-50, aluminum 5 speed, I think it's from a late 70's Chevy V8 Monza. The added frame rails are 2" square steel tube, not sure I needed that much added to the sides of the original frame rails (probably could have used a 1" x 2" on it's side) but boy did it ever stiffen up after they were installed.... MORE
Looking good, just make sure you transmision tunnel is good and strong, or you will have a rather floppy sprite!. Stewart (Standard 1975 midget) "Ford Prefect" 36542... MORE
Well, Dave.... The biggest/best change you can make is to bring up the compression ratio next time you have the head off, unless you're taking it apart for piston/ring replacement. Taking the head from 21cc down to 19cc should be good for just under 8.5-1 and were you to go to 8.8-1 pistons next time around, the combo would be good for between 9.0-9.3-1 or so. You could take the head down to 16.4cc but now you're down to min. thickness for the head (strength, cooling, head-gasket issues, etc.). Besides mechanical stuff, better breathing will help. Vizard outlines in... MORE
Which cherry bomb would you recommend Cap'n, the glass pack type or the turbo muffler? Thanks Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 36500... MORE
I own a 1971 mg midget. I am having diffuculty getting the clutch to work and I suspect that it is due to the fact that I joined two 1/4" double flare lines together with a union, a male to male adapter, a junction whatever you want to call it and this joint leaks. it was not a splice by any means. I did not cut the lines at any time. Clutch fluid can be seen and felt around the joint once the pedal is depressed no matter how well it is wiped off before hand. There is no... MORE
Well it certainly sounds like you have either single or double flares there :) Does the end of the pipe double back on itself? Thanks and Regards Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 36419... MORE
Spent yesterday squeek and rattle testing in the feild, My 1500 Midegt has now put another 2 miles on its odometer (first movement it has seen in 16 years).. Found a loose shock boly, a loose wheel bearing and that I had only started the fuel pipe union into the tank and not done it up.. once it was all done it drove reaonably well.. apart form one thing, the clutch is still not working properly.. If you hold it down in 1st, the car gradually creeps off, my suspision is it fluid is leaking past the seals back... MORE
"'67...the best of years"! But the engines, Stewart.... they were sweet...just right. No emissions but a PCV system...and leaded fuel was still around so 10.0-1 or greater was NOT a problem! Ahhhh...for the good ole' days! :) Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 36373... MORE
These fittings are designed to seal against the pipe flare, not on the thread. Teflon tape will not likely fix the problem. Assuming you don't have a cross-threaded fitting, and that it is tight, then either the flare on the end of the pipe is damaged/malformed, or the nipple shape at the bottom of the hole is. I have fixed this problem with a small nylon washer. A hardward store or plumbing supply will have small nylon washers which will just drop into the hole. I think they're about 1/4" dia with a 3/32" hole. Drop one in and... MORE
I put a little bit of Teflon tape (like you use on gas & water pipes) on the brake line threads. Be careful not to do too much, because you do not want a pice of tape floating through your brake system. I have had no leaks yet in my system, pipe-wise. Oh, and don't over-tighten threads; they will strip. as Adam J.Kopff 36322... MORE
G'day Rob Nice home page, well laid out, attractive header. A few more photos would be good. My failing eyesight makes it difficult for me to read red on black background. I think a brighter type face (lime, aqua) would be better. avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 36248... MORE
That's an oil condenser canister. Found on 1275 engines from stock. Typically hooked up to a PCV valve or to a "Y" connector at the air filters. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 36254... MORE
IMHO, this is not a good idea. There are some things that a "Shade Tree Mechanic" can do, after all, I are one, but there are some parts to the LBC that might be better left to a "British Car Mechanic." As far as your list, Wouldn't a simple "I'll pay you $50-$100, you look it over, turn it over, try to start it, check brakes, etc, and 1. tell me what you think, and 2. give me an estimate as to what you think it needs, what the parts and labor to do will be, and if agreed... MORE
Well the SoCal weathermen were wrong again! It was suppose start raining again yesterday and today - but all the rain stayed north in Los Angeles County. Orange County is sunny, mid-70s. So I decided to drive the bugeye up to a client meeting today . I had just replaced the RC40 muffler (riped off on freeway) with a cheaper Thrush Cherry bomb from NAPA. I liked the sound of the RC40 (throaty but smooth) - but I like the Cherry bomb much better (slightly louder, definitely raspier). Kinda the difference between white wine and Irish Whisky. Bugeye ran... MORE
The strength of the bodyshell is in the sills, bulkheads, transnission tunnel, and to a lesser extent in the floors. Removing the doors and front fenders has no effect, and the rear fenders very little. However if by "taking the car apart, you mean replacing the structural parts, you will have to brace it before you start cutting. i think most people temporarily weld braces across the door openings, and maybe side to side across the car. Depends what you're going to cut out. "joe blxfstz" 36016... MORE
