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My take on it is this... The prop shaft as a unit, complete with the assembled UJ, does need to be in balance. I believe that they are balanced at the factory, but I don't know to what level of accuracy. I don't think that they are balanced as a unit assembled to the back axle, which is why I contend that the flange joint betwen UJ and axle pinion can be undone and re-assembled without need to mark it. If the prop shaft is balance as a seperate item then it will remain so in either of the... MORE
Try fitting one of the shafts shown in the attached link. read on for technical info http://www.gwb-essen.de/industrie/english/index.html Alan "Alan" 28800... MORE
Having just broke two propshafts on a test rig and having to do full risk assesment on the items I can say that..... If you completely dissasmble the propshaft then make sure you mark it up and reassemble everything in the same orientation. Most important is that two pins on the Hookes Joints at each end of the shaft are exactly in the same plane. Because of the spline teeth in the sliding part there is only one possible to way to assemble this correctly. (possibly 180 degrees out, but only if the spline has an even Nr of... MORE
Hey Cap'n- Followed the whole "driveshaft balance" discussion with interest. On my race cars, we balanced EVERYTHING. Being anal, there was no way I was going to re-install my driveshaft without at least checking the balance. So I had it checked. It was off by a country mile. Makes me wonder about "factory" balancing! Paul "dfwip" 28788... MORE
Well... While it's a rotating assembly, I've no idea what is "acceptable" or not in terms of balancing criteria. I would assume that some unresolvable tire balancing problems (despite "changes" in tires, etc.) might very well be something other than what they appear to be in accordance with what you found regarding your driveshaft. I dunno. I mean I'm sure the parts are at least statically balanced in manufacture but what tolerances exist within "acceptable" to the extent it might not go "outside" with use or parts "alignment" changes. I mean I understand what you are saying and I... MORE
Yes, I have a standard Small British Garage (SBG) and have removed two rear axles and suspension in one go. Putting back together will probably as ind ividual parts though. As far as I can remember, I placed a wheelable trolle y jack under the diff housing I put axle stands with about 9" square 1/2" ply between the stand and floor pan (to spread the load) on either side of the car, under the rear bulkhead. I remember having to move these though, b ut at which stage of the operation me memory fails me It will become... MORE
Jim, After moving the stands from the axle to the floor (near the rear suspension mounting points), I walked around the car and suddenly noticed the front floating above the stands (positioned under the front chassis legs...) So the car was performing an unexpected balancing act :-) and almost tilted to the rear. If this had happened it would for sure have fallen off the stands! I immediately increased the front weight by putting a number of heavy items on the front chassis legs! Afterwards I moved the stands to the boot-floor. The car is completely stripped in the... MORE
Ed, do you mean the http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/prop.htm page? It doesn't explain why it matters which of the two alternative positions that the propshaft can be bolted to the diff pinion flange is chosen. Please enlighten us. Regards David "David Jacobs" 28766... MORE
Yep, Nigel, I do know what the axle weight is like, and it is certainly less without the springs attached, and easier to handle. Since it is removed from the springs by simply undoing 4 U-bolts it really is easier to remove seperately from the springs. I have done the job both ways, more than once and always without help. Far and away the most important aspect is that the shell is properly supported in either case. I think we all at least agree on that point! Guy "Guy Weller" 28754... MORE
Cap'n, The prop shaft is certainly balanced - they often have weights on them as evidence. But they are balanced complete with the U-joint assembly. Which is precisely why it should not matter which of the two alternative positions that they can be bolted to the diff pinion flange is chosen. The prop shaft itself is balanced - either way. Guy "Guy Weller" 28753... MORE
LOL! Just like me saying you should mark the prop shaft flange before removal!!... And The Cap'n agreeing with me!!! No reason at all!!!!! Guy "Guy Weller" 28749... MORE
Guy I don't know you know, that axles pretty heavy for one person to handle on their own, specially as its an awkward SOB to get to. You're also assuming that those nuts and bolts will come off nice and easy - never the case! If I had, had the space id have rolled the whole assembly out as one unit, and dismantled it off the car - much easier. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28750... MORE
Yes, Jim.... You are correct. We did in fact replace the front yoke with a Rivergate unit and no, we did not rebalance the driveshaft and no, it did not require it as we experienced no unusual vibration after 5 speed installation with the new aforementioned yoke. Then, we have Guy Weller's post on this as well which we did not have the benefit of before. All the above having been said, when there is a choice I will stay with the original line up of parts as the car came from the factory unless there is a reason... MORE
Well, Jim... While you and I have been trading posts on this, Guy Weller popped up with his on driveshaft (propshaft in the UK) balancing which, if I read it correctly, indicates he knows the subject. So what difference will it make? According to Guy....none! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28772... MORE
Jim- It really was easy. After I had the rear support set up, I actually lifted the car ever so slightly with the floor jack under the diff. This took the weight off the attachment points, and away I went. Not to be a smart ass, but please don't forget the brake lines, emerg brake cable, fuel line and prop shaft. Once it is out, it is fairly easy for two people to lift it onto a set of horses for attention at a comfortable working level. I did a full restoration this way, including painting. By the way,... MORE
I have also removed the axle unit and springs seperatly, which is much easier as there is less to undo. And it is easier to re-install as seperate components when it comes to lining thisngs up. .....But then that is not what you asked about, as I recall. Guy Gents: I do your "deed" for a living. There is NO way in He** I would drop, much less "re-intall (reversal)" as a unit. even with cramped quarters. With a tad bit of luck and time I will get some pics re-oriented in AM. Ed "Guy Weller" 28732... MORE
My rear end has never dropped.....but my wife's has. Jokes aside....I removed mine as a unit. Used a 4x4 across the back behind the fuel tank, supported by jack stands. Placed floor jack under diff and lowered it while having person on each side steady it. Was really quite easy. Wouldn't do it any other way! Paul "dfwip" 28728... MORE
Driveshaft, u-joint, diff, hookup, Jim. I do not know whether they balance this assembly or not. OTOH, I personally cannot concieve of taking it apart without marking same & putting it back together again exactly how I found it, assuming this assembly had worked well (together) previously, in the positon in which all parts were originally joined. No reason to do otherwise as far as I and see, or am I missing something here? :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28737... MORE
Maybe, but most of my car work is done outside these days. It was only whilst I was in the (extended) rebuild period that it was limited to he confines of a small garage. (= closet, for our American friends) Removing axle seperately from springs is easier! Guy "Guy Weller" 28718... MORE
Hi all, One warning: The rear axle is indeed quite heavy...So supporting the car at the rear under the boot-floor is the best option when you have the car already stripped. When you support the car at the front mounting points of the rear suspension (as suggested by haynes) in this situation you could get an unpleasant surpise... Don't ask how I know this...now the stands are under the boot floor, which is a bit more stable. Best regards, Eeg. "eegoberije" 28715... MORE
G'day Steve No, moving the slave cylinder will make no difference, just like shortening the pushrod will make no difference. (See disclaimer below.) You are dealing with hydraulics here. A push of X" at the pedal will result in movement of Y" at the slave cylinder. Moving the slave cylinder will result in the internal piston being at rest in a different position down the bore of the cylinder, but the distance the piston travels when you hit the pedal will not change. Disclaimer: UNLESS you move the cylinder (or shorten the pushrod) to the point where the piston... MORE
Jim The only reason I put mine together on the car was because I simply didn't have the space to do it off the car and wheel it under as a unit. If you have that space I suspect that may well be the easier way to go. I do remember getting the shackle bushes on was a real pita, I had to jack up the base of the axle side to get the shackle bushes aligned correctly, all in about 2 feet of space between car and garage wall. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28696... MORE
Jim, I think Nigel & I use much the same system, although I would remove the whole lot, axle and springs as a single unit. It is easy enough for one person to manage. Jack the car up and support on axle stands close to, but not obstructing, the mounting plates for the front end of the rear springs. Use a timber support to spread the load if you can, but it isn't really essential. Get it reasonably high enough to give working space underneath. Support the axle on a trolly jack under the centre point of the diff.... MORE
Jim When I worked on mine there were two places I put them, but I used a length of stout timber to spread the loads across the width of the car. The first place was just inside, (towards the middle of the car) or just forwards from where the forward spring hangers mount to. The second was to the left and right of the boot floor (when my petrol tank was removed). So I guess in your situation, I'd be putting them just inside, or just forward of the forward spring hanger mounts with a length of timber running... MORE
G'day guys All this discussion on crunching clutches just woke up my tired brain to something I had forgotten. The diaphram clutch as fitted to 1275cc and 1500cc cars is very sensitive to the amount of travel. They actually need LESS travel to release than the earlier spring clutch. That's one of the reasons the slave cylinder is 1" and not 7/8". Larger bore = less travel. If you have TOO MUCH travel at the clutch end, the diaphram plate will go over-centre, and crush the driven plate back onto the flywheel. I have seen this happen a few... MORE
