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Roger Thanks for taking the time to reply. I got it in the end, once I'd got it clear in my mind what I needed to do. Not really knowing how the bearings and oil seals actually sat inside the hub was my main problem. Once I understood how it all fitted together and the sequence in taking it apart ie one bearing came out one end and the other bearing the other end I was able to position the drift in the right place and gave it a sharp thwack and out it popped! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26517... MORE
Hi guys, Many thanks to you all (including Ed) ; ) who helped with the bearing removal from the front hub. Armed with your advice I was able to pop the bearing and oil seal out this morning no problem at all. Now I just have to figure out what grease to put in it . . . Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26496... MORE
That copper stuff is okay for anti-sieze, as on threads, but don't use it in wheel bearings or suspension/steering parts. Any major brand of grease indicated for wheel bearings will be fine. The purists here may object, but any name brand of chassis grease will do fine in king pins and tie rod ends. Some like greases containing molybdenum sulfide, but I don't bother with it. You should use gear oil in the steering rack, however. Probably most important is to make sure everything is clean and greased before you put it back together. I once read an article... MORE
Hi guys Sorry for another naive question! Once I've got the bearings out of the hub, I'll be in a position to start reassembling the front suspension. This is a fairly general question, but what kind of grease/anti-seize compound should I be using to assemble the suspension? Actually thats two questions - What kind of grease should I be using to assemble the suspension components?, and what kind of anti-seize compound should I be using on threads and nuts? Generic 'types' would be most useful, as brand names tend to be meaningless if they're only available in the US.... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I don't think the splined part unbolts, I think its all in one. I'll have a go at destroying the oil seal, as I think this is what's causing all the problem, I suspect that with that oil seal out of the way, the bearing's will pop out quite easily. I admit to having used so far a length of timber as a drift (as I'm very concerned about scoring/damaging inside of the hub itself) and I don't think I'm getting enough 'whack' on it. I'll try destroying the oil seal, if that doesn't... MORE
Heya 'grumpy' : ) Thanks for your reply! Of course I have a ****ing shop manual but of course the ****ing shop manual only covers removing the bearing from a steel wheel hub and NOT a wire wheel one, hence my confusion as to which side it needs to come out of! To be honest, I think I might just hand it over to a garage and say 'You sort it out! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26478... MORE
"you change the endearing handling by a ton..." per Ed! :) This is true. The suspension was built with a certain sized tire contact patch in mind. When you change only the contact patch (larger, most especially "wider") you can expect more stability/grip but less "tossability", all else remaining equal or the same. One of the reasons for this is the slight change toward neg. camber which comes with the slightly wider track, most especially when teamed with a wider wheel. Now you can keep the "tossability" but move it up in the speed range with the right combo... MORE
Mr.H Loved the classic look of my wire wheels as well but it didn't save 'em. Between cleaning, truing and only 4.5 wide track I couldn't justify keeping them. Switched to a set of American Racing wheels for a Vega and am very happy with the results. FYI-The new wheels are 5.5 inches wide. Had to change rear pumpkin/axles and hubs and perform minor wheel well surgery front and rear to accomodate 165/70's on the new wheels. Rob C '75 Midget Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 26472... MORE
Nigel, I just did this chore this summer and can pass on the following: To remove the bearing races you need a screw driver/hammer combo. The hub should have two shallow indentations just at the top of the bearing race to place the screw driver tip. Place the tip and tap firmly several times on alternate sides until the race begins to move. Point two. Just rip them greeze seels oucha there! Ya'll gonna hevta buy new 'uns anyhow. Rob C 75 Midget Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 26470... MORE
Robert Thanks for your reply. I've removed everything except the bearing and seals. Which side? I've been trying to drift it out by inserting a drift from inside the splined hub part. I think its the oil seal thats not moving. I've been bashing away at it and it either hasn't moved, or its moved by about 0.5 mil. Any ideas how I can get it to move? I thought about heating up the end, but I'm very concerned about damaging anything. tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26459... MORE
Hi guys Anyone know the process of getting the bearing out of a wire wheel front hub? I've tried but don't seem to be getting anywhere. tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26451... MORE
Ken... The Datsun box utilizes standard mineral based gear oil although I personally favor "synthetic" gear oil in the winter months for much easier shifing in the cold (just changed over yesterday as a matter of fact). The foregoing having been said, the synchronizers were made with normal mineral based gear oils in mind though, so while cold weather shifting (most especially from 1st to 2nd) will be much easier with synthetic, synchronizer effectiveness will suffer a bit for you "quick shifters"! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26456... MORE
Nigel, You've removed the dust cover and the cotter pin (you call it something else) and the castleated nut, right? I believe you have to remove the caliper so the whole hub will slide off. Then you take a suitable drift and drive out the bearing from the other side. This is working from a 35 year old memory of having done this, but I'm sure I will be corrected if necessary. RH ...those idiots at the NRA, not only do they think the second amendment gives them the right to own guns, they think the first amendment gives... MORE
Pete, I would endorse Gerard's advice and any others who have suggested the resleeving route. I took their advice around March and had mine resleeved by "Joe" (as I recall, Joe Way) at Sierra Specialties. (Somewhere back early this year in the archive for this list are some threads about resleeving.) The MC really didn't look that bad to me when I took it out, but folks had suggested that some fine pitting not easily seen could be a cause of a soft pedal. It came back from SS immaculate, and after reassembly, the firmness of the pedal was... MORE
funny amount of positive camber. I did this at an event one time many many years ago. I had help from a friend who should have also known better. We both were on the receiving end of lots of jibes and laughs from all the other club members who witnessed our folly!!! You can check: http://www.ahsdc.org/goblins/tech/frontend.htm for some diagnostics courtesy of the late Bob Gill and Gillspeed. If you don't find anything seriously wrong, then it is time to inspect the engine bay for signs of a smack on the front left side. (substitute front right side in case... MORE
There are 4 gears floating around in there. The Big gear that drives the axles, a little gear that comes in from the driveline and 2 other gears that transfer the power from the driveline to the axles. Any one of them have a broken tooth, and it is time to say, what is your gear ratio. 3.9 to 4.22, swap rear ends, 3.7? or 4.55? what is it worth to stay at this gear ratio? 5.?? You are in trouble. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26411... MORE
If what Mike says checks out and the diff looks okay, check the transmission/motor mounts. I had a similar sound and I guess the body carried or amplified the sound of the drive-train flexing because after I replaced the mounts, the sound stopped. Jack Texas "austinbud2002" 26390... MORE
Hello all. Now that I have finally got my '79 Midget running good ti is time to turn my attention to the front end. My left front wheel is out of line. The wheel is pushing out at the bottom if viewed from the front of car. It is a more up and down than in and out sort of thing. The wheel needs to come out at the top to make it even (staigh). I am pretty sure this can not be achieved by adjusting the tie rods? Otherwise the car drives straight and sto ps straight without... MORE
I'd check the U-joints first. If they are OK, then I'd probably remove the diff and do an visual inspection. Look for scoring on the engaging faces of the crown and pinion gears. (or worse, chipped or broken teeth) Look for "slop" anywhere by holding one gear still and rocking the adjacent gear to see how much movement there is. Does the diff whine much? or is it a quiet diff? If it is nice and quiet then I'd be surprised if it was the problem. You can sort of do this with the diff still in the car... MORE
Thank you for your reply, Mike Yes, it has wire wheels, but I have checked these and the splines looks perfect. So probably it is the diff or the u-joints. If it should be the diff, do you think it is somthing that needs to be adjusted, or do I have to replace any parts? Jan Erik "jmaalen" 26367... MORE
a flat section between the angled faces. Worn splines end up with a saw-tooth profile (i.e. pointed top). Other candidates include u-joints, and diff. Mike "Mike Gigante" 26357... MORE
Hi All. I haven't had much time to write, but I wanted to share a driving experience I had last week. As most of you know I recently started a job selling new Volvo, Audi, Mazda and Audi cars. I've been out for some neighborhood romps in the Audi TT and the Mazda RX8, both of which are a gas to drive, but I had the rare opportunity to get a test track training from Volvo last week. They rented out a large section of tarmac at Alameda Naval Air Station and set up two coned off test tracks.... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
Bob, Well... You're right what skews my thinking is that many years ago I had a worn timing chain that was so bad the headers would glow red as the engine speed increased. BTW the chain is new duplex with vernier gears. In order to get it to idle 900-1000 I had to retard the timing (rotate the dizzy ccw). The idle screws would have no effect on the speed unless I did that. Does this mean I got some leaks around the carb shafts? I'm going to go back and static time the ignition and see where it's... MORE
"...all you can do is steer them in the right direction...." LOL......priceless, Nigel!! I recall when I could not get the toe to stay put on my '74 Midget when I first acquired it. After replacing tie rod ends, bearings, etc., I finally just broke down and replaced the whole suspension with new parts. And prior to this, it WAS "stiff" and while it became less stiff with much grease, it then became loose due to worn clearances, even as it became less stiff as we continued to grease it often. So diplomacy aside, it can be just as... MORE
