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Neil, The thing it will do is lighten up your front end by over a hundred pounds and make your car feel more like the way it was intended to be like. The first thing you will notice is that it accelerates faster. There is alot of stuff to take off and change to do it but it is well worth the trouble, but then you will be driving a "bastard" Bugeye, not a midget. Go for it......happy trails. Rex Urban "Rex Urban" 29884... MORE


Had this problem years ago with my Mk3 Midget. The pedal eventually broke away from everything, and I had to be relayed home. Margaret South Lincolnshire (UK) "May you be in Heaven half an hour before the Devil knows you're dead" mmbrock88@... 29888... MORE


The 3.7 diff was used in the later 1500 and in the riley 1.5 and wosley 1500, and AFIK not a fragile unit at all, well your 1500 engine is more likely to break than the diff, given its liking for throwing rods in standard form. One thing to note though is your speedometer will need recalibrating as it will read slow. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 29875... MORE


I have done same mod works fine. Pedal came from 1500 Midget. "Peter Whittle" 29873... MORE


Hi, My gas pedal often sticks (does not return all the way back). I can usually fix it by tapping it a bit but sometimes I have to quickly hook it with my shoe to get the revs back down to idle speed. I have determined that this problem is caused by corrosion on the floor hinge rather than a problem with the throttle springs, cable or the bent rod between the cable and the pedal. I have improved the pedal's action somewhat by applying oil and wd40 to the hinge and by excersizing the pedal to try and... MORE


Hi, The diff on my 1500 needs replacing and I've the option of a 3.7 (recon) if i want it, i've heard this is a weaker diff, is this true? THe engine is stage 1 an the moment but im slowly aquiring bits to take it further. As I'm seriously thinking of a 5 speed conversion later this year (most likely autumn) maybe it isnt that important. I know the later 1500's came form the factory (so i'm told anyway with a 3.7) but is the difference noticable, both in reduced revs at cruising speed and the slight loss... MORE


Hi, I'd like to fit my 1500 midget with a fibreglass front end but was wondering what (if any) difference this makes to the overall rigidity of the car. My (totaly baseless) opinion is that it won't really make any but I thought i'd ask before I went ahead and bought it! Thanks, Neil '75 1500 (with various go faster bits bolted to it) "Neil Rouse" 29859... MORE


Neil... I too have been told the same about the 3.7 diff from Bill Perry of Rivergate (and he oughta know!). In my discussion with him on this (I've used a 3.7 for many moons) it became apparent that it's all in how the individual driver treats his machinery. Does he transfer gobs of power instantly, or not. IOW, does he/she beat on it? My current 3.7 diff came out of my '74 Vizardized Spridget..90+hp at the wheels. I put about 10K on the car annually for 12 years or so, then it saw service in my '67 Sprite... MORE


Hello there, My girlfriend has a MkII AH Sprite that's in prety poor condition. The restorer who has the car at the moment has recommended that it be rebodied but it seems that you can't get new Sprite MkII bodies so he is now proposing to fit a MkIV(?) body and all the extra that that requires such as door locks and winding windows. As this is going to be an expensive job I'm a little concerned that the car she'll end up with will not be of much interest to other Sprite buyers as it'll effectivly be a... MORE


And Great to drive over at night. Did it in my Mk3 Midget one April, on a London to Edinburgh overnight run. You can really get the speed up, as you can see when there are any other cars coming from the opposite direction (the lights from several miles away is a dead give-away!!) Daytime is a little trickier, though, especially if there is another car too close in front, and you need to make a run at a steep bit. Another steep bit is Applecross, on the Western coast of Scotland. That I thnk is a bit steeper... MORE


Alan Yeah, that's because Healey designed the front end and MG designed the rear end - design misconcept is right on the money! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 29546... MORE


G'day Terry I think Trevor could be on to the problem. It sounds like you are fitting the clips upside down. There is no way the two "ears" should hit the bodywork - they will face out from the body at about 45 degrees. The flat side of the clip should be flush with the body. If you are fitting them upside down, a small washer will not help - the trim will be loose after it is fitted. And I certainly would not suggest sliding the trim on - you are guaranteed to scatch the paint. The scratch... MORE


Chuck: Many years ago (about 1967 I think) I had a bugeye and wanted a forward tilting front end. I simply removed the hinges and swaung the unit up and forward on the latching bar that engages the holes in the frame. I think I had to remove the front bumper. I didn't use any latch downs for the unt. The weight held it in place. Probably not acceptable in these lawyer happy days but did just fine in the good old days! John to kit rubber "mg_john2" 29481... MORE


Nigel, I had exactly the same problem with the bumper mount and I still have not decided weather to make or buy new tubes as I have no seen them in Moss etc . Can you tell me if you made them or where you got them please. Thanks Duncan _____ From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 9:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Replacing windshield glass ? Trevor Thanks for that explanation, it's kind of what I expected it to be, and as =3D you say regarding the down sides, it's exactly why I... MORE


Trevor Thanks for that explanation, it's kind of what I expected it to be, and as =3D=0D you say regarding the down sides, it's exactly why I don't like using them. There's been very few nuts/bolts/screws I havent been able to remove using =3D=0D heat and brute strength, but I guess heat is not really an option on the windscreen frame - further fuelling my concern. Theres only been a couple that have beaten me and caused problems. The first was on the long bolt on the axle casing that retains the rebound stra =3D=0D ps - that one... MORE


Terry, On the several that I have dismantled, they have all had mastic between bezel and glass, O-ring between glass and the next ring in, and an 0-ring between the case and the metal dashboard. I don't think there is supposed to be an O-ring behind the metal reflector ring. It is stepped and fits against the rim of the case, leaving a gap between it and the dial face to let the light through. One tip here is that you should save discarded O rings from the rear hubs as these will fit around the tach and speedo... MORE


Don The rear end was actually designed by the MG design team, who were also working on the MGB at that time, hence the reason the two rear ends look very similar. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 29201... MORE


I am not familiar with the speedo in your vintage LBC but I had a problem with the odometer reset rod in my 62 Sprite. At about a half inch from the body of the speedo there had been a small screw hole through the rod. This was for a small screw that held a shaft extension. Mine broke at that hole leaving what looks like it might be a screwdriver slot. The rest of the rod was not able to be attached. The far end of it had a small knob that is used to reset the odometer.... MORE


Had this years ago, that time it was a stripped fibre gear in the gear train that drove the numbers round. Do tell me how you got the innards out, the trip rezet rod is stopping mine from coming out. Terry "terry.isherwood" 29237... MORE


To fix this you are going to have to open up the case and get into the detailed workings. It is pretty delicate stuff in there and parts do wear out. You may prefer to get it to a specialist to recondition. If you do want to sort it yourself you will need to remove the chrome bezel and glass and then undo the two screws on the back of the case. Remove the mechanism complete. It does come out, but may seem like it won't, especially if it has a trip mileometer fitted. Inside, resist the temptation to... MORE


So there is a man who knows what 'rabbit' 'forstner' 'scotch nose' and 'norris' mean, along with 'twin taper dovetail housings' ! Funnily enough I have also made the odd bit of furniture etc. and make guitars for a hobby when not 'midgetting'. R "Roger Stinson" 29072... MORE


From: Roger Stinson [mailto: rogerstinson@... ] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 9:54 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Re: Trim panels So there is a man who knows what 'rabbit' 'forstner' 'scotch nose' and 'norris' mean, along with 'twin taper dovetail housings' ! Funnily enough I have also made the odd bit of furniture etc. and make guitars for a hobby when not 'midgetting'. R "Duncan Sinclair" 29075... MORE


Hi guys And please don't think I'm now restoring a Mini because I'm not ok ! It's about time I updated you folks on how the Midget restoration's coming on. The bodyshell is now about 90% complete in gloss coat, there's a couple of area's I need to deal with and a couple of panels to finish with 90/10 paint/thinners mix, to bring up the gloss. The bootlid has had 5 or 6 coats of 50/50 and now needs some 70/30, and 90/10 coats. Likewise the passenger door. The drivers door, is in primer now awaiting its first gloss... MORE


Bob, Thanks for the vinyl dye tips. One little disappointment I just discovered . . . I have a beautiful wire spoke steering wheel from my 69 MKIII parts car I had planed to use on this car . . . just discovered they increased the diameter of the steering wheel spindle end at some time after the MKIII :-( However, over all I am very pleased with things are going. Trust the weather is better down there than up here . . . too much rain, but the sun is coming out and we should have a few... MORE


Hi folks! I have just purchased a 1977 MG Midget 1500 in what I can only describe as 'tired' condition. Although it has an MOT it does have a few faults, and as I am not in the least bit mechanically minded I need some advice as to what repair is required. There is a water leak coming from the engine in quite a steady stream from somewhere at the top of the engine below the head: it is a bit difficult to see exactly where as it is obscured by the manifold and carbs.The water temperature gauge on... MORE