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G'day Paul et al The travel at the slave cylinder end depends on: a.. the length of the clutch pedal from pivot point to the pedal pad (there are two lengths - bet you didn't know that) b.. the height of the pedal off the floor (which is adjustable on cars with dual clutch/brake master cylinders) c.. the amount of free play at the top of the pedal d.. the master cylinder bore size e.. the slave cylinder bore size f.. the amount of "lost movement" due to wear in bushes, clevis pins etc etc If you know answers... MORE
I guess I stepped in that one all right. Anyway, I'm measuring the travel at the pedal not the slave cylinder - so I guess I have to crawl under and check the circlip. Thanks for the help! Kevin "Kevin Odhner" 28065... MORE
G'day Kevin Aren't they rude, having a laugh at you like that!!!!!!!! I can understand it from Brad, but from Capt Bob, I am surprised! Shame on you Bob. Now to the topic. Kevin, are you measuring distance travelled at the pedal, or travel at the slave cylinder? If it's 1" at the slave cylinder end - then that's excessive. It's usually only about 1/2", so all is well. At the top end, the pedal should hit the floor - approx 4" away. 1" in and out (sorry, couldn't resist) is rediculous. But if your clutch pedal only travels... MORE
Good lord this is a cold natured 8itchy car until she gets warm. I was finally able to take her to the mechanic today for the cracked slave cylinder boot. It's 30 degrees in Memphis, TN which doesn't make me happy because she has no top on. I bundle up, go out and crank her up. I'm sure she was cussing me because every once in a while I could almost understand a few words coming out of the engine compartment and certainly a few from the exhaust. I forgive her considering how cold it is and that I'd... MORE
Hi, Can anyone tell me what the normal range of movement is for the clutch pedal on a '65 Midget MKII, and how stiff it should be? My clutch seems to work just fine, but I am surprised how short the range of motion is, and how stiff it is - it feels like its only going in about an inch, if that. As I said the car works, but the difference between in and out is so small that I find myself pushing hard to be sure I've got it in far enough in. If the pedal had... MORE
David Having an Old Holborn moment there The engine has 2 crankshafts rotating in opposite directions. Crankshft gears are in mesh - the idler drove the camshaft. The square four overhead cam engine was made in the mid-30's but overhead valve models were made from '53 to '59. The manufacturers described it as "Whispering Wildfire". Alan "Alan" 27997... MORE
David Both crankshafts had a gear on the end of them, then there was a an idler gear connecting them both I believe . Magnificent cylinder head also. Alan - "Alan" 27996... MORE
Happy New Year to all! I promised myself I'd get into Midget gear right after the first. My dual Spitfire(Gasp!) carbs and manifold are in hand but the carbs are dirty! Does anyone on the list have a good method to remove years of grime, gunk etc. so the new setup can look good? I've been told to soak 'em in carb cleaner but I've never been that impressed with the results. Would also be interested to know if any cutting is involved when installing a Spitfire 1300 carb/manifold setup in a RB Midget. Thanks in advance. The days... MORE
OK Geri, NOW I understand. With the engine at 1/2 stroke, and the crank journals at 90 degrees to the vertical, the con rod is at an angle, and the piston has therefore moved more than 1/2 way down the bore. Yep, I got that! Similarly, the one on its way up will have moved lesss than 1/2 way, so the two together will have pressurised the sump. If you were to draw a verical line from the piston centre down through the axis of the crank shaft and a second horozontal line at 90 degrees to this through... MORE
Peter, Right you are. I wondered if anyone would realize that the distributor drive gear is connected to the camshaft which actually turns the oil pump. Lots of wasted time doing it this way if you ask me. Its your money.....I heard of one fellow that hooked up a presurized bug spray can with oil in it to the oil gauge feed pipe or something and pumped oil through his engine before starting. I heard it killed bugs for miles when he drove by for years afterwards. LOL Really, I think that this is to anal for a common... MORE
Paul, Yes, there is a proper way to break in your engine. The first 20 min will tell if your engine will live a long life or die at an early age. Lots of people have differant ideas on how to run it in for the first 1000 miles. I will tell you how I do it at work and what I reccomend to my customers. When we go to start up a new one we always go through the same check list. All fluids up to specs. Gravity fill the oil cooler if installed. Make sure the fuel... MORE
Hi Cap'n- IT STARTED!!!!!!!!! After ten long, grueling years (ok, I took A LOT of time off...) the motor fired this afternoon. A sweeter sound has not been heard.... You are right. This is a VERY fresh motor. What should I pay attention to with respect to "cam break-in"? Also, I got the clutch going. Most all parts are new or refreshed. Disengages the flywheel nicely. But the pedal effort is VERY light. Is this normal? Also, has anyone measured the "rod travel" one should get at the slave cylinder with a properly working clutch? I would be interested... MORE
Ho Ho HO Merry Christmas, you can sleep at night again. I love a story with a happy ending. Now remember fellow gear heads, only four shopping days before Christmas so we should probably get started......tomorrow. Happy trails..Rex Urban "Rex Urban" 27771... MORE
Congrats, Paul! Good find...way to go. And you have educated us for which I am very appreciative...thank you. There are no "dumb" questions any more than there are "dumb" mistakes....well, maybe failing to lower the landing gear, eh?! :):) Since you never forced the engine to turn beyond where it wanted to stop turning, I doubt you did any real damage. As I understand it, this engine was never really run after it was initially built? Bear in mind the first 20 minutes of so of running need to be done with break-in of the camshaft in mind. Glad... MORE
Hi all- First, let me take a moment and thank you all for the gracious way so many of you have spent your time trying to help. I recently sold a '96 Porsche 993, and let me tell you, if you do your own wrenching, you are on your own. This group is a real pleasure..... Worked on the problem this evening. Not sure what I have learned. I first pulled the starter. No change in problem. Next I decided to spend some quality time on my knees watching the valve and piston movement. Very interesting. I watched each... MORE
Make sure you check your driveshaft and U joints. A bad U joint can cause very similar symptoms. Don't ask me how I know. Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 27736... MORE
Don- As best as I could, I tried to eliminate the tranny in my testing. I put the car in neutral and could roll it all over the garage. I then left it in neutral and turned the engine by hand via the fan pulley. The crank turned the same amount as when in gear. Am I correct that this rules out internal tranny issues? Is there anything I could have done when bolting the tranny to the engine? For what it is worth, as I roll the car it sure FEELS like the problem is in the engine.... MORE
Paul, I also thought of the starter earlier. If the ring gear were picking up the gear from the starter and not engaging properly it would bind and cause the symptoms you describe. I have experience on this from a B that I owned in college. Not at the top of the list but possible. Steve Quandt Steve Quandt 27727... MORE
Paul, I have been reading this thread with interest. A lot of interesting ideas. Let me think a moment and apply my simple Polish logic. Before you go into motor....... you have marked crank pulley and it always stops in the same place. If you back it up, it stops a few degrees from the same place always? right? Then take it until it stops and check into plug holes and find if any pistons are at or very near TDC. If they are, there could be something in the cylinder that is hitting the piston. If non of... MORE
If the guy who did the work was this good my hunch is still that you should be able to disengage the clutch before you proceed trouble shooting for possible causes in the engine. Do you know for sure the flywheel gears or clutch pressure plate is not catching up on something? Is the starter installed? Don "Don May" 27722... MORE
To add to my last post . . . Lets assume the guy tested the engine and it was ok when you got it back . . . possible, but hard to understand that he did not test it out before returning it to you, since then you attached the clutch/transmission. The car will roll around in neutral, but when you put it into gear the engine will not turn over 360 degrees . . . sounds like you can not rule out a mistake/ fault in the clutch or trans when in gear. Until you assure the clutch... MORE
"No hydro fluid for clutch" . . . so the clutch is not disengaged and the transmission is not disconnected from the engine during your attempts to turn over the engine. You may still be in a possible situation where the fault could be the transmission locking up while in gear but not in neutral. Don "Don May" 27707... MORE
I need help. Here's what happened. Began restoration about 10 years ago. Thought it would go faster than it did, so early on I had the engine done. It was built by Dave Tabor of Comptune, the guys who built all the SCCA champ 1275 motors. Anyway, I told Dave I wanted a 1967 street spec high compression engine. I know he used a factory crank and cam. I believe he used aftermarket pistons that he preferred with a compression of about 8.9 to 1. He used a factory non-emission head, redone to run unleaded. Job was completed many... MORE
Forgive me Nigel... For some reason I thought your name was Alan to. The reason why I asked virtually the same question was because I wanted you (or someone else) to elaborate a little more on the modification necessary to install the Frogeye rear end on a Midget. What might seem to be a serious modification for one person might not be so to another... Thank you Nigel for taking the time to answer my rookie questions. Your help is greatly appreciated. I like your suggestion of using a one piece fiberglass rear. I will most likely go that... MORE
Thanks Alan And thank you Robert B. Houston and Rex Urban for your replies. I will admit. My knowledge of 60s British cars is somewhat limited. I mainly mess with 80s-90s RWD Imports like the MR2, Supra, 240SX, 300ZX, etc.. I dont know why I didnt see that the Silver Sprite was a Frogeye being that the rear end is the only part I like on the Frogeye. I think I need glasses. Anyway... Is it that hard to take the rear panels of a Frogeye and install them on a Spridget? Is it a mater of traditionally replacing... MORE
