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Help! I am sure I have heard or read of a slick method to do this, but can't seem to find it in the archives. My problem is this, I have the engine and transmission all in, but neglected to put the driveshaft into the back of the transmission till now. Is there a clever way to keep the U-joint from flopping around long enough to get this into the transmission without cutting holes anywhere? The last LBC (a 70 Midget) of these I owned (20 years ago) it seems some previous owner had solved this problem by tearing... MORE
Hello fellow listers, I am sure I have seen a slick method to do this, but can't seem to find it in the archives. My problem is this, I have the engine and transmission all in, but neglected to put the driveshaft into the back of the transmission till now. Is there a clever way to keep the U-joint from flopping around long enough to get this into the transmission without cutting holes anywhere? The last one of these I owned (20 years ago) it seems some previous owner had solved this problem by tearing a hole in the... MORE
Duh . . . I think I was half awake . . . Is confusion catching ?. . . I was thinking Tach cable and gear box rather than speedometer which was the question was about. Sorry. Don "Don May" 24766... MORE
On my 61 Bugeye, the speedo worked when I purchased the car 12/02. Since then speedometer seemed to have frozen. Replaced the cable , same thing. Lubricated the cable, Sent the speedometer to Nisonger Instruments, Worked for about 3 miles then same problem. Removed the speedometer side of cable and the shaft is spinning? Very confused. mcmcsey@... 24755... MORE
Assuming the repair was correct and remains good there is a slim chance it might be the gear reduction box. The shaft is spinning when you disconnect it with no load or pressure from bends in the cable. Have you squeezed the end of the rotating shaft to see if with some load pressure the shaft continues to turn? It might be that the gears or the bearings in the rear reduction box on the back of the generator are worn and causing slippage. It the bearing hole is enlarged it would allow the gears to offset enough to... MORE
E-mail me a photo of the rear end, taken from about 3/4 if that is possible and I will pass it down the line to a friend of mine who is in the car industry as a designer and might be able to sugest a source of something suitable. Whether it would suit the midget front end is a mute point. But you don't know until you try1 : ) R. "Roger Stinson" 24710... MORE
I think ther may be some confusion about the oversized valves.If the guides are worn you can install a valve that has a larger diameter shaft.If you want more flow you have to rework the head and install valves with larger diameter valve area[the big round top part].Hope this helps "stanley hill" 24715... MORE
According to what I have read many times, both groups were ordered to work independently, but the secretly broke the "rule". Gerard The except below is from the Midget Sprite Club site, attributed to (c) Mick. S. Maguire M.I.E.E.E "1961 saw the introduction of the replacement for the Sprite Mk I, the car had undergone a major restyling. The front end was restyled by Healeys at Warwick along more traditional lines: the one piece front end of the frogeye was gone, being replaced by a more traditional layout of fixed front wings and a separate bonnet. The rear end... MORE
Don and all, This may be a good time to ask about a good way to re-do the rear end of my 75. I have taken off the rubber bumpers (making sign against evil as I type this) and have a good idea of how I want the front end to look. The back however is tough. The RB cars have the area below the tailights flatted off with quarter and rear sheet metal folded over and welded. Not real attractive. My only thought at this point is to fabricate this section in line with the older cars. Has... MORE
I have to admit to toying withe the idea of fitting the midget bonnet and wings to my frogeye temporarily, as there was one car built like this. In all fairness the fact the Mk2 sprite and Mk1 midget came out as well as it did is quiet amazing when you find out the front end was designed by Healey and the back end by MG.. allegedly they did not collaborate either.. (I suspect the truth is different!) Stewart "Ford Prefect" 24642... MORE
Oh yes I have! I'm Thinking of taking a little further training, and then starting a new career as a contortionist! It makes it a lot easier to lift around without the engine and transmission and the back axle and the ... Well just as a bodyshell really! R. "Roger Stinson" 24618... MORE
It probably makes no measureable difference. The structure of these cars is quite strong, and the engine/trans weight is not far from the front axle centerline, so I doubt there is any change in panels fit you would be able to see. The factory certinly didn't care, and with even slight effort, your car will be straighter than when it was new... "Jeffrey Holmes" 24604... MORE
Hello, i'm new to the group and I am looking for just a few bits,..mostly a period radio, a stock muffler, and (I realize its a stretch and yes, I know I can get one on e-bay or through the standard mail order companies, but it never hurts to ask) a black carpet kit for my 1962 midget. I also have a spare copy of John Blaggots book "Mighty Midgets and special sprites"...its very nice book and its in perfect condition. aaand while I have your attention, I have oil running out my back left hand side rear wheel... MORE
Thanks for the info Gerard, and here's what I did... I measured the "at rest" distance between the mounts to be 12", but I didn't know at the time to note the tie-rod angle. I picked up the front end of the car, upper arm dropped against the rubber stop, and measured 13.5". Set the car back down gave a tape measure to my daughter and asked her to measure how much the car was moving up and down as I stood on the two front frame extensions jumping up and down myself. Don't laugh=85 it worked. My results... MORE
Good Question, but before any one of the many experts can respond you both must agree on what is your objective. Get running and enjoy. Rebuild, show and drive. Other. Why was the engine pulled? Did the car run or was their a problem? While the engine is out, and I assume the Trans.; Take and inventory to see what is there and what's not. Inspect the Trans. gears and see if all turns O.K. Inspect the braking system. Remove the interior stuff including the seats to inspect cockpit. From there it depends on what you two decide you... MORE
I am in the UK. I got really lucky with the Sprite. It's a '64, one owner from new. The guy bought it in his late teens or early 20's and kept it all his life and couldn't drive it any more. It has only 60K on the clock and is all original, (now I have found a period gear knob). :) Max "MG_Max" 24462... MORE
Hi Don, This could be the clutch, but I don't think so. If it were, you have some trouble, even if only occasionally, with second or one of the synchro gears as well. What you describe is probably caused by you first motion shaft continuing to spin even when the clutch is disengaged. With no synchro, there is nothing to slow the spinning non-synchro gear. My interpretation is that the first motion shaft is kept spinning by the pilot bushing or bearing. Could be a burred up bearing/bush (some 1275's has a phosphor bronze bushing, some had a needle... MORE
Actually this sounds normal if its just a slight crunch as you select 1st or reverese.. As the 4 speed box attached to the A-Series has not syncro on first or reverse.. and never did have. the 1500 boxes IIRC have syncro on all 4 forward gears, can't remember about reverse. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 24456... MORE
Hi Don May... Xmission operation sounds perfectly normal to me Don May. First and/or reverse can be difficult to engage in these boxi from time to time as only 2,3 & 4 are synchronized. To "stop" all action in the box prior to attempting to engage 1st or reverse, shift into second initially, then go to first or reverse from second gear rather than from neutral. This will do the trick 99% of the time. It is not unusual to occassionally have a problem getting into first or reverse even with the above method. Just don't force it....simply go... MORE
After some thought here is what I think, since you have no problems with any gear when the car is not running, and the only link to the engine from the transmission is the CLUTCH than I say its the clutch . You have no problems starting the car in first or reverse and you can drive the car in first and reverse so the transmission must be OK or at least in good shape. It takes a good clutch release to engage 1st and reverse. Just a logical thought... good luck . crfkingfish@... 24457... MORE
Thanks for all the feedback guys. Gerard, what you are saying about the first motion shaft continuing to spin makes sense as when the clutch is disengaged it sounds like there is still a lot of spinning of the gears in the transmission when I try to shift into first while at a dead stop. The car is still on a non-op registration so have not had a chance to take it out for any higher speed runs to see if things loosen up. Don "Don May" 24461... MORE
I have a transmission problem, or clutch, and would like some feedback on what I should look for as the possible problems. It is in the 73 rwa, 1275, ribcase trans. It was not driven for about a year prior to my purchasing it. I have trouble shifting into first and reverse most of the time with the engine running, then for brief periods of time strangely it will shift fine into first and reverse without any gear noise. I have bled the clutch lines and it looks like the travel at the slave is enough to disengage the... MORE
yes, I've got one, but it's in the car and you can't have it! is the A+ one you have got modifiable to fit the earlier block? (I can't remember the exact differences - is it just the clamping fork thing or the drive shaft as well?) David "David Jacobs" 24396... MORE
Hiya Colin Thank's for clearing that one up for us. It sure looked like a Sebring front end to me, but I had a sneaking feeling it may be a custom job. Sure look's like a beastie to me ! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24389... MORE
G'day Adam, Nigel, Robert, Cap'n Bob et al The car in the photo, 7522N, is mine - the Fright. Bugeye tub, but now with 4.3 lt E-type running gear, except rear suspension which is Lotus 16 trailing arms and Chapman struts. Also Mk III doors and screen. 13" magnesium Minilites at the front and 15" at the rear. That's me in a khana. No problem getting around the flags with as much power oversteer as you like to dial in with the right foot. Look at the rear right tyre profile and compare the "bag" at the top and... MORE
