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I assume we are talking the 215 Buick/rover engine? That being the case the standard axel with the 3.7:1 diff and hardened halfshafts should be OK. as for the wheels I would be inclined to go for minilites or similar. Wires can cope with the power, (How many E-Types have you seen on anything else! V12s don't count 'cause they are too ugly) but Standard Midget or MGB wires I doubt will. MGC wires though might, but they are 15". TR5 PI wires may also cope Stewart "Ford Prefect" 32994... MORE
Guys - Currently working on a Buick 215 powered MG midget, always loved the looks of the spoked wheels on British sports cars, but how long will they hold up to a small V8 and manual trans? A friend has offered me a set of wire wheels which he says are from a Triumph or maybe a MGB, (I think they are 14", but how do you tell what they are from, and what splines I will need?) I haven't seen them for a couple of years, hope to get them home this weekend. Was wondering if it'd be... MORE
I'm rebuilding the rib case transmission on a 1275cc Midget. Looking for the British Leyland Part Number for 3rd. gear. "mgmidget1969" 32953... MORE
There is more than one 3rd gear fr the Ribcas trans. It could be 22G148 or 22G236 or 22G1121. If you're trying to replace it with new or similar used, look for the part number on it. Would be either stamped or acid written on it. For a clue for the number of it, what is the laygear part number? Again, there are 3 different ones! Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32954... MORE
Some kits use the original brackets turned the other way and swapped over to the other side of the car, but the Spax kits for 1500 Midgets (as shown in the MG Owners' Club accessories brochure) use brackets that look like the one in your photo. If you jack the car up with the jack under the body, (the front mount for the rear spring is my preferred choice) then the weight of the axle just sits on top of the spring with no extra load on your broken plate. Once the U bolt nuts are removed the plate... MORE
Posted a picture of my new toy.I think I have most everything previous owner had screw up corrected. Time will tell. Everything works. installed Pertronix ing. Just to make it a little easer to tune. Only problem is 2nd gear. dose not make any noise or anything. shifts into gear smoothly. Will stay in gear on acceration but on deceleration it pops out of gear. Any suggestions, could this be an adjustment problem. Thanks Carl "electrabee" 32938... MORE
Guys - While dissasembling my front suspension last night, one of the bolts which clamp the shock pivot arm to the small shaft at the top of the spindle broke while turning it out, are the upper shock arms available new from suppliers, and also how about the rubber bushings and the mentioned small shaft thingie which it mounts too? Everything is locked tighter than a drum, and was wondering if I should just cut the small shaft thingie off and replace both it and the shock lever arm, I'm sure all these little bits have proper names but... MORE
TJ, Just went through the same drill with my midget, at least regarding the brake lights not working. Check your brake light switch, which is just forward of the pedal box. If you have a faulty (read: leaking) MC or clutch MC, the fluid could have worked its way into the switch. A faulty switch will not operate the lights when the brake pedal is applied. Just another area to look at. Good luck, Pete "Pete Skalski" 32914... MORE
Just to add to the brake switch discussion. I just replaced the switch on the brake pedal on my '74. Raise the hood and locate the pedal box just behind the left front fender. There are 4 screws holding the cover onto the box. After removing them, the pedals will be visible and you can see if the plunger on the brake pedal switch is working properly. If there is any question, unhook the switch and use a jumper wire to connect the two wires coming from the wiring harness. If the brake lights light, the switch is faulty.... MORE
TJ, Forget the emergency brake and adjust the rear brakes first. When they are adjusted correctly see if that helps your gotta pump the brakes problem. If it dosen't then you probably have air in the system and will have to do a bleed to get it out. Also while you are at it pull the rear drums and check their inside diameter and the condition of the brake shoes. Really worn rear brakes (or rear brakes that need adjustment) will cause the pumping before they work problem. You said you have a firm pedal once pumped up so... MORE
Hit a mild problem with the front end of the 1500, no surprise the suspension at the front is wobbling about. Passenger side turns out to actually have a good kingpin on it, but the lower wishbone bush is shot, it's way off centre and wobbling about like a good'un. Having drilled the coter pin out (which appeared to be fitted upside down, with the nut on the underside?)the trunion bolt(?) holding the kingpin on if stuck solid to it, so I have had to take a hacksaw to it. The two ends of it that were in the... MORE
Yes, I think they are stepped - I'm not taking mine off just to measure though! New ones were only $5.35 in my old copy of the Mo$$ Sprite catalogue. Having said all that, I came across something on the Mini-Mania site which describes a Minor conversion kit using Spridget hubs, discs and calipers, but still using the original Minor hoses. http://dealer.minimania.com/web/Item/DSK100/InvDetail.cfm and http://dealer.minimania.com/MM/Disc_brake_conversion_for_Minors__DSK100.htm Does this look like yours? David "David Jacobs" 32897... MORE
OK, working on the Midget again, it's running just peachy with the petronix. My last real issue before getting it road inspected is the brakes. There are 2 issues: 1. Brakes need to be pumped 2-3 times every time you need to stop to get full pedal. Once they are pumped, they are solid and do not go to the floor, no matter how hard they are pushed. I assume from this they are holding pressure. Additionally, they don't seem to be leaking anywhere. Next time you need to stop, you need to do pump them 2-3 times again.... MORE
David, The A+ Dizzy needs some simple modifications. The shaft length on the A+ dizzy is slightly shorter. To get it to work you need to grind / turn about 1/4" off the thickness of the top flange of the collar that locates the drive shaft in position. Then you need to either file the main hole in the clamp bigger to fit the dizzy body, or turn a little off the dizzy until the clamp fits. The A+ dizzy comes with a different clamp - a forked affair but you don't use that. The end result on mine... MORE
C on on? brakes e side dash with op ly one bleed e a pedal. ning. mk2sprite@... 32779... MORE
Mike, Let me start by saying if there are no leaks and the fluid level in the MC dosen't drop, I would suspect your MC. That said, does your brake warning light come on when you turn the ignition on? If it dosen't then the switch is centered. When either the right or left brakes fail the internal shuttle is push to one side or the other to seal off the side which has lost pressure and when it does it activates the switch and the dash light comes on. If your light is on after bleeding the brakes... MORE
Hi all Looking for some advise. Have a '79 Stock Midget with dual line brake system. Have done work to it in the past year including: Rebuilt master, new rubber hoses all around, good linings, adjusted with nice firm pedal, NO leaks. Brakes seem fine then suddenly pedal goes to the floor with no brakes at all. This happened a few months back so I rebled the system and we have started to drive the car on a more regular basis now. Drove car about 100 mi before it happened. Pedal comes back up to normal with 1 or... MORE
Don't get confused, Jens. The butterflies must fully open when the accelerater pedal goes fully down. This is mechanical matter. The pistons (air valves) must not reach their full upward travel prior to redline (or reasonably thereabouts). If they do, you require a stronger spring. Probably yellow is next. Aldon would know the different spring rates/colors. The weight of the oil determines the piston's rise RATE. The engine is being revved under no load circumstances. Thus, the butterflies will not require much opening in order to allow the motor to reach it's redline under this no-load condition. Cap'n. Bob... MORE
so was I, trying to figure out what the mod is for. Can't see any reference to this sort of thing in Vizard, only reducing obstructions such as the butterfly shaft, screws etc. David 32720... MORE
OH...and Jens...I forgot!!! Before you get started on a compression check, DO check the throttle cable hookup and be sure when you put the accelerator pedal fully to the floor the BUTTERFLY is FULLY open! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32706... MORE
Ah HAH.... You may have hit the nail right on the head here, Jens... "If (my engine...tuned or not) cannot SUCK (produce enough vacuum) to open a pair of HS2's....." EXACTLY!!!! It is time to "begin at the beginning", Jens. As in MAJOR tune-up. Step one is checking engine "mechanical health".... with valves properly adjusted...time for a basic compression & leakdown check. Considering recency of engine work, you're looking for 150 or better on compression check and leak-down rates of less than 10%. Remember to hold the butterflies fully open (accelerator pedal fully to the floor) during the compression... MORE
Decided to MOT the frogeye for one last summer before it gets the shell fully sorted. As it stands it needs a tyre, the horn fixing and the handbrake adjusting. Nothing really major. However the reason the handbrake needs adjusting is not because of wear in the system or a starched cable, but the bracket on the axle bends over time and needs knocking out with a hammer. This had to be done at the last MOT it had (1999). The bend occurs where the cable passes though the bracket, has anyone else had this problem and if so... MORE
Another removal challenge. I have removed the nuts from the u-bolts holding the rear spring and the two bolts that are next to each other and closer to the front of my Sprite. In drawings of the spring assembly there is a single bolt shown between the u-bolt and the pair of bolts but all I can see on the car is a hole with something up inside it. I cannot figure out how to remove this bolt since it has no exposed head. This is the same on both sides of the car. I am the original owner... MORE
I'm pretty sure that's what happened, Paul. I did have to use quite a bit of "persuasion" to get one of the cups to fit, and I noticed the clip was having a hard time reaching the groove. Thanks for the tip on driveshaft shops, next time I'll go to one and bring my little girl. She cries on command. Very useful. Thanks to everyone. George "chuibuddy" 32654... MORE
Sunday I replaced the u-joints in my 79 1500. I got all the C-clips in their grooves, I thought, and re-installed the drive shaft. This AM, on the way to work, one grease cup let go, letting another one break out, and the car ended up being towed to my mechanic, where he's currently replacing the damaged u-joint. Is there some trick I'm missing, or am I just a F$%^#ng idiot? The clips seemed seated, but I guess not. This is the second time in two years I've had trouble installing these little buggers, and I'm dying to know... MORE
