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Chris, Been there, I replaced the floor pans, trunk floor inner and outer rockers, kick plates, inner and outer quarters, inner fronts etc. rebuilt the 1098, front end, brakes, steering. Took 5 years. Hope you can make your 2 1/2. Pics available Bob 60 AN5 Tampa MTGBRKR1@... 24384... MORE
Adam It looks a lot like a Sebring front end to me, hard to tell from that angle =3D=0D though. Take a look at this one - it's pretty similar - http://www.gerardsgarage.com/ GarageContent/UniqueSprites/sebring/BSCD98.jpg Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24360... MORE
do those wheels bolt straight on to Spridget hubs? David "David Jacobs" 24347... MORE
Adam This really isn't an easy question to answer, which is why I suspect you haven't had many replies! I read this last night and I've been pondering it ever since! The first thing I think you need to do, is really decide what it is you wan =3D=0D t, and what your priorities are because many of your requirements seem to conflict =3D=0D with each other. To be honest, I think you need to forget about Frogeyes, they just are not =3D=0D within your budget of =A33,000, you can get Frogeyes for that money, but yo u'=3D=0D re... MORE
David, Which "the book" are you referring to? There are many. The Bentley (factory manual reference) does if you have a late enough versoin of it. I posted the info in an earlier message. Early cars are opposite the pinion side on LHD cars and on the same side aftter the Triupmph rack was subbed for the Morris one. I am assuming the opposite is so for RHD in both cases. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24322... MORE
see what I mean! The earlier racks had a thicker pinion, which won't fit properly to a later steering shaft. How about that? (sorry, I haven't been concentrating - maybe you have that point covered already?) Guy "Guy Weller" 24301... MORE
The packing is to ensure that the rack and the column meet at an accurate 90 degrees. So the packing piece could go on either side to ensure this, depending on where it is needed.. I don't think it relates to the year of manufacturer, but is just to adjust for "manufacturing tollerances" in the assembly of the front chassis rails and cross member. Assemble the shaft to the rack pinion, with the rack bolted loosly in position to the frame. Fix the steering shaft upper clamp bolts; spin the wheel left and right to get it "comrfortably aligned"... MORE
George, Are the rocker shaft and rocker bushings in good condition? If it looses too much oil from the shaft, then it will flood the valve guides and draw oild through to into the ports Guy "Guy Weller" 24292... MORE
David, Apologies if this is stating what is already obvious to you but... The pinch bolt aligns with a "neck" in the steering pinion. So the bolt needs to be fully removed before the steering shaft will fit over the splines of the rack pinion. It then needs to slide far enough on for the pinch bolt to align with the waist part of the pinion. I assume you got this, but if perchance you are simply slackening the pinch bolt but not fully removing it, then this could be your problem. Guy "Guy Weller" 24290... MORE
Hi again: Thanks to all those that helped answer some questions I had about the carpet, that was most useful. I found that I have snaps on the footwell carpet and the trans tunnel. Question: The rear wheel arch cover pieces seem to have a small vinyl pad sewn into them. I assume this is a wear pad for the top frame? Or could I have placed this piece in the wrong spot??? They sure seem to belong there. Can someone tell me if there is a vinyl pad on theirs? Thanks Rio "Rio Rafael" 24319... MORE
It says in the factory manual, the packing is on the pinion side for later cars. "David Jacobs" 24289... MORE
How about a sixties Midget or Sprite. I run a mk2 Sprite ('63) as more or less an everyday car (I do have access to my girlfriends car and sometimes I'll buy a banger to get me through the worst of winter). It still looks like a sixties car, has the superior (zips up flame suit) qu arter elliptical rear suspension of the frog and with its aluminium cheese grater grille has as much of a grin as a frog. Plus if you are going to us e it as practical transport you'll appreciate the opening boot and (if... MORE
Hi, I'm currently speccing out a new car, and trying to decide what's affordable and what's not so I can keep an eye on prices for a while and hopefully pick up a good deal when I spot one. It will have to be a daily driver but I'm also fairly serious about making a start on sprints and hillclimbs (maybe a few track days too). As ever, I'm trying to keep the cost down, the budget will be roughly =A33k. #1 choice, even above cars well out of that price range, or more modern cars that might perform... MORE
My 1400cc engine which sat for a number of years after being built smokes. Between burning and leaking it goes through a quart every 200 miles or so. I've done a hot compression check and get 205, 210,210 and 210. (compression ration is 9.75:1). My thinking is that the problem is in the head, valve stem seals or guides, or with the rocker arm shaft, based on the consistent compression readings. I remember someone saying that even with good compression the problem could be bad oil control rings. Thoughts, comments, suggested diagnostic tests, would be appreciated. Thanks "george07876" 24254... MORE
Whooooooooooo This is going to be an interesting thread. As far as BMIHT Trace certificates are concerned heres the details from mine, I've blanked out the numbers with X's for security reasons. Production Trace Certificate Number 92/6157 MG Midget Mark III Car/Chassis No. G-AN5/8660X-G Engine No. 12CE-DA-H/XXXXX Body No. 67XXX Specification: RHD, Home market Colour Exterior: Blue Royale Colour Trim: Black Colour Hood: Black Date built: 18 May - 2 June 1970 Date despatched: 8 June 1970 Destination Dealer: University Motors Limited, London Other Numbers Gearbox, 56XXX, Rear axle 14XXX Key numbers: FS.XXX, FS.XXX Details of Equipment: Wire Wheels,... MORE
OK, the area around the spring boxes on the MK1 while physically solid has had patches of steel welded over other patches over the years, and the whole area including the rear inner arch and the reinforcement running round the boot floor like a chassis rail is quiet simply a mess, the whole lot needs cutting out and replacing. Now many years ago my dad and myself cut up a frogeye, and I have had to repair this area on my 1500 shell, and I can tell you one thing for certain, the 1500 shell has within the triangulated... MORE
It is indeed a '74 1500 rubber bumper MG Midget! As I said one of the very first. Before cutting the sills it had on it off, it was interesting to note that it had two jacking points on one side, and only one on the other. However on removal it was revealed that there was little left of the rear end of the inner sills on either side, but more interestingly there was no sign whatsoever of the rear jacking points, as though it never actually had any!. However the rest of the shell is defiantly Normal 1500,... MORE
A '74 1500, Stewart? I did not know this! Was it a rubber bumper car? Or 1500 running gear in a '74 chrome bumper type machine? Wait a minute, here..."ntlworld"? You must be in UK, right? Chrome bumpers! One of the prototype Mk ll Sprites (not production) consisted of a Spridget front end and Frogeye rear end. In the picture I saw, it looked pretty good. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24212... MORE
Hello.. I have two sprigets.. The first car is a 1974 1500 (yes they do exist as I had to keep telling anyone I orderd parts for it from!)Which I bought in 1988, dorve for 6 months and then stripped, scince then I have replaced the inner and outer sills, repaired the floor and the front chassis sections and inner fornt arches.. restoration has stalled there, and the last time I actulally worked on it was 1991 IIRC! If my research is correct it is the 126th 1500 midget built and it is /was teal blue registerd JMB742N The... MORE
In between all the I wish I had not posted that posts I was able to re-install the steering column cowl on the 73 Purple Midget (Black Tulip) Then worked up my resolve to break out the MIG welder and tack one of the fenders back on the Bugeye bonnet. Some of the tack welds look fairy close to the real things. Took the 73 out for a run down the block and back for the first time. Bit of a noise maker in low but ok in the rest of the gears. The engine is very strong, all... MORE
Well, Don May... I just had a fibreglass BE bonnet enter my life by coincidence. I just had my steel one overhauled in terms of new metal strips, etc. It's got cooling louvres (they work beautifully, BTW) and pretty soon will have a nice smooth finish between the grille and parking lights... no more "unsightly" horzontal seams!! :) Some guy refused a fibreglass one that just came in to S&C up the road from me so it became available. Might be a good time to convert over to save a little weight...give it a tilt front end treatment, etc.!... MORE
G'day Brad The valve stem diameters are the same. You can squeeze 1275cc valves into a 1098cc head (12G295) if you want to, but you will need to open the combustion chamber up quite a bit to allow gas flow around the valve, or you are defeating the purpose. Really no great advantage. 1275cc head will fit on 1098cc block, but if you have a high lift cam, and/or 1.5:1 rockers, the exhaust valves will hit the top of the block face. You will need to machine a crescent out of the block, up to .100" deep (I just... MORE
with regards to understeer, this may be of interest, I swapped the front springs on my 1500 for 400lb 8 1/4" springs with poly bushes all round and a 3/4" ARB with nylatron bushes (i have a freeling the old ARB was 9/16ths) its a '75 UK car btw. Now, this tightend the front end up no end and felt great, however, ther rear still had the standards springs and was lowered 1" on blocks. After these mods it had a tendency to snap oversteer mid corner (after initially understeering) , I was going to play with the tyre... MORE
The overdrive is a seperate unit on the rear of the gearbox so in theory could work on all 4 gears, but there is no point in having an overdrive first is there ;-) !! There is a lock-out to prevent it selecting overdrive when in first or second. The "snatch" on the ratio change would be too great at the lower ratios and probably end up in stripping something. Guy "Guy Weller" 24084... MORE
David, Guy is correct about the spacers (except it would read better if you fit the spacers before tightening the rack mounting bolts!) What you don't mention is whether you replaced the levers (the arms that connect the trackrod end to the stub axle) with the older type as well as the rack. They should match together with the equivalent rack. This might have altered your steering geometry - the Ackerman angles/toe-in on turns but I don't know if this would affect the self-centring effect. Regards David "David Jacobs" 24075... MORE
