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...when I want them to. I have wire wheels. The rear wheels will come off OK, but I can't get the hubs to budge at all on the front wheels. I have tried using a wooden "spanner" for extra leverage, but nothing doing. Can anyone suggest a treatment, such as a way to loosen the hubs? Thanks. Tede "tede4uk" 32242... MORE
Hi Everyone I did a compression test on my 1500 motor can anyone tell me the compression reading in lbs for the 1500 motor Here are my readings I think they are low ?? Can any one tell me if have a problem or going to have problems with the diff readings between cylinders in the future CYL 1 - 130 2 - 130 3 - 115 4 - 100 Thanks again every one for all the help you have gave me Ed "nastyboy089" 32184... MORE
Hi All I am going to try to rebuild the master cylinder in my 79 midget this weak end I have the rebuild kit and the hone. I have never done one of these befor. Does any one have any tips tricks or helpfull hints. I have replaced all lines both calipers all rear barke parts wheel cylinders also. And my brake pedal still gets rock hard and front brakes drag. The thing is I drive it the first time it gets hard.I let it set for about 15 mins. and the presure lets up and I can drive... MORE
G'day all Steve's tale of the welded tappet nut reminded me of this event. A few years ago I received a phone call from a Sprite owner who lived in the bush and couldn't find a local source of parts. He was after some rear wheel bearings and seals. No problem, we sent a set up to him. About a week later, he phoned to ask for a rear hub nut. He needed it as he had to cut the old one off, since the nut had been welded to the axle housing. me: "I bet it's the left... MORE
An effective fix if you cannot make a new shaft is to use some heat-shrink cable insulation to connect a new length of rod to the broken off end of the old shaft. It acts like a sort of flexible connection Guy "Guy Weller" 32149... MORE
Nigel I had the same thing happen to my trip odometer. It broke off where the shaft was cross drilled just outside the main body of the odometer. If you have access to a metal working lathe it is a simple job to make a small shaft coupling and a new knob. I did it with mine and made the new knob a little larger so it is easier to grab. I posted a photo in the photo section of the group if you care to look at the way I did it. It is under "Odometer Knob." Actually... MORE
Rick The answers to these questions are as long as they are short! I can tell you what I did, but I'm not sure it will help you in your situation. I stripped all my interior paint back to bare metal using Nitromors paint stripper, washed it down with water, dried it, cleaned it all with a wire brush zip wheel in an angle grinder, sprayed it with etch primer, high build primer filler and finally top coat. I removed the carpet glue and (one of the worst jobs of the lot) the underseal/bitumen panels on the trans tunnel... MORE
Alan, I think if you swap everything over, including stub axles/kingpins, brakes and steering rack, it should be straightforward (assuming the Frogeye steering column fits on the rack pinion ;-) ) Regards David "David Jacobs" 32120... MORE
Hi Alan I never could drive my midget with work boots on! Not enough room between the pedals. Makes Heel & Toeing difficult too! Relationships can last ...... My midget has been around for over 25 years (nearer 40 really but I don't like to admit to that!) MR 2 looks interesting too. I will be interested to know how you get on. By the by, I also have long legs, 33/34 inside leg, but I never let that spoil my fun :-) R. "Roger Stinson" 32119... MORE
Thanks to all who replied on my strait cut gear box being very noisy in the first three gears. Very relieved to hear that is normal. Saved me a lot of worry, thought my season was over before it started. I'm also taking everyones advice and getting some new competition brake pads to replace the unworn, but 25 year old ones before my first event. Much appreciated, Curt "cfisher1a" 32090... MORE
Tyre type e.g. radial V crossply and tread pattern also make a big difference,to rolling resistance. As well as tyre contact area and the height / stiffness that the tyre walls have to deflect / squish when rolling. Alan PS The diff and drive train even when not in gear will make difference FWD car V RWD car. As well as dragging brakes at front and rear for whatever the reason. Next time there's a midget gathering try a midget push test . Alan "Alan" 32082... MORE
Sounds like a normal straight cut box to me, 4th gear is quiet because it does not run throught any gears. When you have got your helmet on, it will be much quieter. "beckers" 32052... MORE
The road tests tend to give Tapley data as tractive effort going up various gradients in each gear, but that was the only one I found giving drag. David "David Jacobs" 32061... MORE
No, that is normal. In SC/CR box, the only comfortable gear is 4th! Get some hawk disc brake pads from the usual suspects (winners circle, mini mania etc) Mike "Mike Gigante" 32046... MORE
Curt.. I've heard straight cut gear boxi at the track. They're all very loud as compared to the stock road boxi, which are also loud as compared to my Datsun 210 box. The first Datsun 210 I used was an original. It was extremely quiet. The 210 box I am now using is a rebuilt. The sychros are better but, the box has a distinct (but not unpleasant) whine in all gears. Your's may have been rebuilt at one point or another, so parts might not be as well- matched as in the original unit insofar as the first... MORE
(Sorry folks forgot the subject header last time.) A couple questions mostly for the racers in the group, but also any gearbox gurus. 1)Gear box whine: Got my retired racer, soon to be vintage racer Bugeye out for a quick (illegal) run down the road tonight. I have a rib case BMC competition (straight cut, non synchro) close ratio gear box. It whines VERY loudly in 1st through 3rd gears. 4th very was quiet. I wasn't surprised or worried about 1st & 2nd being noisy, but expected 3rd to be quiet. The two tracks I'm going to be running... MORE
A couple questions mostly for the racers in the group, but also any gearbox gurus. 1)Gear box whine: Got my retired racer, soon to be vintage racer Bugeye out for a quick (illegal) run down the road tonight. I have a rib case BMC competition (straight cut, non synchro) close ratio gear box. It whines VERY loudly in 1st through 3rd gears. 4th very was quiet. I wasn't surprised or worried about 1st & 2nd being noisy, but expected 3rd to be quiet. The two tracks I'm going to be running this year are all 3rd & 4th gear... MORE
Curt, This information is worth exactly what you are paying for it....nothing! I seem to remember that straight cut gears are always very noisy. That would explain noise in 1, 2 and 3. 4th or top gear is straight through and are not loading on any gears so it would be much quieter. If it was loud in top gear, that would indicate a problem. Cheers, Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 32045... MORE
Hang on. This is a daily used car. 30,000miles in 3 years since full rebuild ALL new brake parts at that time Regular maintenance - like every 2 weeks I grease the kingpins, top up dashpots etc.etc. Using silicon brake fluid and flush and replace that every year - although its due another change about now. I do a 80 mile daily round trip to work, in fast, heavy traffic conditions. My life depends on this car being in good condition. I started this "thread" to see what other experience might be out there. I don't actually think that... MORE
could be right about the diff - the modern car will probably have helical cut spur gears where the Sprite will have the hypoid crown wheel and pinion, which has a bit more sliding contact between the tooth faces - more friction? David "David Jacobs" 32006... MORE
Tapered rollers, AFAIK. I suspect the modern diff in a FWD car is lighter to turn than a Spridget rear axle diff. Guy "Guy Weller" 31996... MORE
what sort of wheel bearings does the Pug have, compared to the Sprite? (can't see that making a huge difference, though) David "David Jacobs" 31984... MORE
Hi all, I have just started on a project to restore a 1976 1500 MG Midget, the car was given to me last weekend and it was already stripped down. The first thing I want to do is to refurbish and re-paint all of the old parts that will be underneath the car, including the rear axle, prop shaft and steering rack. I started on the prop shaft yesterday by clearing all the flaky rust off and getting it ready to treat with Jenolite before using some smooth hammerite on it, as I have not yet received my workshop... MORE
Neil Look under the hood at the brake/clutch pedal box. Your brake light switch should be mounted to the outside of the box in front of the brake pedal...Im pretty sure. Mike mk2sprite@... 31912... MORE
Hello again to the group I left for the winter. Now that spring weather is back in Iowa, I am rejoining the collective wisdom of the group. My brake lights do not work. Taillights do come on when the headlight switch is turned on. Looking up the wiring diagram, I assume the first thing that could be giving me trouble is the brake switch. Where is it located? No switch located on the brake pedal as on my other vehicles. Thanks Neil "Neil Hernan" 31909... MORE
