MAIN
Drive Train
Previous Page | Next Page
What's wrong with this picture? My brake light switch failed on my '71 Midget, so I ordered a replacment from Moss. I start to remove the old switch (the neck of the switch is threaded and mounted in a threaded hole in the clutch/brake pedal box) by attempting to rotate it out of its hole........to my surprise (I should not be, being a Midget owner!) it won't rotate because of lack of clearance! Am I crazy, or is this: 1. Just something on my car only, or 2. One of those loveable (hateful) design glitches that make owning one... MORE
Nigel, pardon me for ignorence but where do those grease drenched felt washer for the handbrake mechanism go, is it inside the handle support? Jens Bill Strangely enough, I had planned on doing work on my rear axle yesterday, mainly to install the brake pipes but I had a few other jobs to do as well, such as re-installing the circlip that 'pinged' off! I had already bought two of the original type circlips for this and also bought some circlip pliers for the job. I have to say it was about a 5 second job to install those... MORE
Jens You took me a little too literally. If you recall I said I was working on the rear axle - the handbrake mechanism that links the two levers inside the brake drums is connected by rods held together with clevis pins - the felt washers with grease on them fit on the clevis pins where the rods join together - helps stop rattle and allows the joints to move smoothly. Not easy to explain, a parts book picture would explain it better. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30658... MORE
Bill Strangely enough, I had planned on doing work on my rear axle yesterday, mainly to install the brake pipes but I had a few other jobs to do as well, such as re-installing the circlip that 'pinged' off! I had already bought two of the original type circlips for this and also bought some circlip pliers for the job. I have to say it was about a 5 second job to install those circlips - went on sweet as a nut - no problems, so much so I took the other 'e' clip off and installed the other... MORE
Bill, I drilled pilot holes, one where the roll-pin hole is and one in the other "corner". I then opened them up and used an ordinary hand tap (taper, then plug) to thread them to take 3/8" bolts. The holes mustn't be too deep or you will break through into the cylinder bore and ruin it. The cylinder then fastens firmly in position with two short bolts through the backing plate. It is actually a very easy modification to do. But not for those with an "original" fettish. Guy "Guy Weller" 30642... MORE
Nigel, If you look very closely you should find that there is a very slim machined recess where the axle flange meets the backplate. It is designed so that the edge of the circlip just fits into the notch and there is no need to grind that 2mm off the edge of the circlip. Guy "Guy Weller" 30640... MORE
Bill I had exactly the same problem when fitting my circlips. I found there wasn't enough clearance between the axle flange and the circlip and no matter how hard I tried I could not get the circlip to sit flat. In the end I ground off about 2 mil of the round part of the circlip so it would just clear the axle flange. It worked fine on one side, but evidently ground off too much on the other side because when tried to make it lay flat it went 'ping' into two parts! I ordered an original type... MORE
Bill, A couple of points that may help: The "E" -clip goes on with the open gap towards the bleed screw. There is a very slight groove between the axle casing and the back plate that allows the edge of the clip to fit the space between the wheel cylinder and the axle casing. There are various techniques. I have found that if you can get the edges of the 3 lugs just against the edge of the wheel cylinder casting and then put a large socket against and give it a "light tap with a heavy hammer" it... MORE
G'day Rick, and congrats on getting the car home. We have fitted a few cars with 14" MGB wheels, with no problem. As long as you don't go too wide on the tyre profile. Two things you will need to do. 1.. The lip on the inside of the rear wheel arch needs to be gently folded up against the inner panel. This gives you only 1/8" or so extra clearance, but you will probably need it. If you are gentle with a hammer and dolly, you can do it in 10 minutes per side, and it will be... MORE
Rick Grats on your new acquisition, don't take any notice of some of the list 'snobs' there's nothing at all wrong with a 1500 - they're great little cars (apart from the Triumph engine which is a dog) And good luck with it ....not saying any more on that ;) Braided cable - not sure - could be a ground, could be the handbrake cable? Pull cable is the bonnet release. The throttle pedal is available from Moss (well here it is - UK). Not sure what a dashpad is, do you mean the crash roll on top of... MORE
Rick, I know that they put 15" rims on the MGC and 14" rims on the MGB but I do not think 14" wires would fit on a midget with squared off rear wheel arches. With the right tyre profile and flares you might be able to pull this off. The hub is the same on all three dunlop wheels. Never know until you try it on ONE wheel and see. We fit 205/60/13 wheels with mags on a midget or sprite with round wheel arches with little to no problems all the time. Best of luck. Rex Urban... MORE
Listers - The friend I received my 75 Midget from has a set of wire wheels, if I remember I thought they were 14" wheels from a MGB, but no splined hubs, just the rims. My question is will 14" MGB wheels fit a Midget with the Midget Splines? Not sure if the would have the correct splines, hub bolt patterns and wheel offsets (I know B wheels are something like a 1/2" wider also), but a set of new low profile tires would give the correct outside diameter. Later Rick "Rick Bender" 30498... MORE
Listers - (sounds like something you call people after a night on a booze cruise) I finally got my car home, created a folder in the photo section ("Ricks 75") and uploaded a photo... Figured out what caused the PO from finishing the restoration, he had snapped 2 bolts off while removing the passenger side front shock for some reason, soaking in WD40 for a couple of days and small amount of heat and the stubs came right out. The car is in supprisingly good shape (for Wisconsin), the previous owner towed it up from New Mexico, so it... MORE
I'm trying to locate one of the brackets that attaches the clutch slave to the tranny for a 1500 Midget. This can come from a 1500 Midget or a 1500 Spitfire, since the gear is the same on both. Bracket has 2 bolts to mount to the tranny, and a pinch bolt to hold the clutch slave. If you have one you can part with, please let me know. Thanks! TJ "TJ Tryon, Jr." 30484... MORE
yeah, but would you trust a book by an author that can't spell 'spindles'?! David "David Jacobs" 30390... MORE
G'day Jim Thanks for the update. Now it becomes clear to me. It must be the fact that we are Down Under and you are Up Over. You ask the purpose of the elephant's trunk. Well of course, it's to breath, or inhale. Well just under the rear end of the Sprite or Midget, (call it trunk or boot as you will) we have a pipe, a round hole anywhere between 1.25" and 2.5". Down Under, it is to breath out of. Clearly, Up Over it is to breath in through - hence the reference "trunk" - to breath... MORE
A "clip" is a common term in auto salvage yards...breakers to the Brits, and wreckin' yards in Texas. A front clip would be the front fenders, hood, (wings, bonnet) and grille bumpers, lights etc, to replace a whole front end damaged in an accident. A rear clip would be the rear fenders, deck lid (wings, boot) and connecting bits with the bumpers and lights to fix a vehicle that had been rear ended. A bugeye clip would be added to a spridget that had been prepared by sling off the appropriate parts and welding or in the case of... MORE
Message: 4 Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 17:19:41 EST From: DLancer7676@... wrote.....that Auto Zone is now carrying brake lines with the proper flares and the fittings for British cars. When I was an apprentice at the Lockheed Brake Co in the 70's. we each had to make a brake pipe flaring tool as part of our machining tests. Not that difficult but getting the angles and radius correct on the tip was the diff icult part. Years later I resurrected the drawings (originally 1950ish )and had a full set made for the R&D department where I was working at... MORE
Thanks for the pics TJ I agree with Trevor - those lower hinge's look particularly bad, are you planning on sorting those out? Also you can get lower rear wing repair sections for those rotted lower rear wings. And your bonnet (hood) has the typical rot spots for that 'double-skinned' area at the front. Was the transmission tunnel reasonably solid, hence your not touching it? I stripped all that crap off my transmission tunnel and yes it took ages! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30203... MORE
Robbie, I think the start point is to loosen the little pinch bolts on the throttle and the choke connecting rods, so that the two carbs can move independently. Then check that the piston in each will lift and drop back down again cleanly, without catching or sticking. If not, then loosening and re-tightening the two screws that hold the piston chamber on may help to centre it. More likely you will need to centre the jets. There is a special tool but it realy isnt necessary. Just loosen the larger (upper) nut on the jet by a half... MORE
Yep... Had one of Jon's rear clips, as my '67 came with a BE bonnet and I was going to do the rear end BE-wise but the car met it's demise pre-maturely. My rear clip finally went to a guy in CA. It was good (heavy) quality. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 30184... MORE
I have 2 main mechanical issues I will need to fix before doing any real driving. (I have many other non-mechanical issues, some even just mental). 1. Brake pedal needs "pumped" to build up pressure. Once I pump it a few times I can hold it down and it stays firmly (doesn't go all the way to the floor no matter how hard I push). Before I pump it, it goes all the way to the floor. When I let off the brakes, and drive for a bit, I need to go through the whole process again. I don't... MORE
Well, Jim... Weight IS one advantage. With a "glass" bonnet we go more 50/50 fore/aft. I don't know what the actual weight savings is, but it IS substantial in consideration of available HP. It's sorta like lightening the flywheel but it's more effective in the higher rather than lower gears, unlike the lightened flywheel. Also, while I'm in good shape for 61, part of the reason is because I'm "aware" enough not to try to be a 20 year any more than I try to be a 40 year old, again. People have back problems (usually) as they get... MORE
Alan Oooh ta! What is that a Lenham rear end? Whne can I pick it up - very kind of you :) Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 30048... MORE
I forgot to mention, The impact beam and front bumper really create a safety barrier on your car.(they really work) By removing these you will risk injury in the event of a frontal impact. Now having said that, the Winners circle "fat" flared 1500 nosed kit really looks good when both the front and rear are flared and larger 16" rims are used. Grrrrrrr! I always prefered the one piece front end to the seperate fenders and bonnet. I have used fiberglass panels for decades and never gave it any thought, Just my preferances. Just dont get hit. Best... MORE
