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Brad... Problem with Rod is stiffness.... which, if you look at the above sentence is sort of funny in it's own way (not that there is anything wrong with that!) though we are talking about his Spridget's steering, of course. :) Geoff Branch has the problem with "sound" coming from his front end, so I hope he is listening to you...:):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26316... MORE
Hi, Rod...welcome. Can be either/or. You will notice on the steering rack that the lubricator nipple looks to be a regular grease nipple...well, it's actually a nipple for an OIL gun with the correct fitting, such as one would find at a Marine Supply Store. Most people don't realize this and grease the rack instead of "oiling" it. Not much of a problem in nice, warm summer weather but, as soon as it cools off, the steering becomes as you describe it (assuming it's just this and not kingpins, etc.). Normally, warming up the boots covering the rack than... MORE
VP3 cam...oh, yeah!!! Martyn, this is about as hot as you can get for the road in a 1275 and still have decent low end for light to medium traffic. In your smaller 1098, it's almost a mild race cam! Hopefully, you have the larger main bearing "cc" engine because this cam's torque curve comes in at about 3200 on a 1275cc+ motor and will pull right through 7,000rpm with larger valves and 1.5 rollers. On my 1340, it would idle very nicely at about 1,000rpm (nice "lopey" sound) and behaved very well using a 45DCOE with a Weber... MORE
Rick writes, in part, "Does the owner's manual contain suggestions...." LMAO! In the SAAB 340 I flew the "red" hydraulic light (steering, landing gear and flaps) came on when you had lost all your "main" hydraulic fluid. The emergency action item for this event was "Hydraulic Pump Switch to OFF (from AUTO) which was hilarious as at 3,000psi, you could never in a million years get to the switch in time....a completely useless red light if there ever was one!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26295... MORE
To my spark plugs that is! I've replaced the points and wired them correctly, new rotor, cap and wires. Still no spark, I'm lost as to the problem. The points have voltage on the outside contact when open and voltage on the inside when closed, referencing the shaft as the inside. I checked the wire to cap connection with an ohm meter everything's good there. The coil gets power when the points are closed, the coil is new also. Does anyone have an idea as to what I've over looked? Thanks. "Martyn Eastwood" 26273... MORE
I have a restored 60 Bugeye that I bought from a P.O. that had stripped, primmered the body, and installed the disc brakes, rear end, and brake system(new), had the engine, transmission, rear end rebuilt, bought ALL NEW chrome and glass for the car. I am self employed at an obscene hourly wage, so I don't work very much ($100.00 hr), so I had my car painted and then I assembled, re- painted, Bought & painted hardtop, re-painted car, repainted car & hardtop, in 14 months with a total cost (me + P.O.) of 18,000 in parts and labor... MORE
Colin at sprite parts wrote I happen to have a brand new 12G295 head, still in the BMC wax paper. So I measured it for you. It is exactly 2.754" thick. So, That means it's just inside the drawing tolerance of 2.75" +/- 0.005" However,Colin The depth dimension of the combustion chamber - could you give us a dimension of this please. ,( which is more critical to find out out if the engine face has been machined) In fact any dimensions for a brand new head would be useful. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I include part of an email I sent... MORE
I have two questions mostly revolving around the same issue involving my 3.9 diff I'll be transplanting to my Bugeye project. Has anyone on the list rebuilt a differential and if so how was the crushable spacer handled as I don't see this as a part that can be ordered from the normal sources. Second question, If I just replace the diff pinion oil seal how is the torque to the pinion nut handled? It's torqued to 140 ft/lbs but doesn't that have the potential to further crush that spacer? Ok, I'm going to take advantage of the list... MORE
The aluminum differential carrier was not painted. "Jeffrey Holmes" 26171... MORE
Hi guys I'm about to paint my rear axle, which I'm assuming is gloss black like most of the other suspension components. The question is, is the differential carrier /cage also painted black or left in its natural silver alloy finish? Thanks in advance . . . Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26169... MORE
Ah, yes... The Nash Metropolitan with "B" Series running gear. My mech recently worked on one of these prior to the owner (son of the father who had owned and stored it prior to his death) taking it out of storage and moving south with it. Neat car. With around only 30K on it, in excellent shape. Had a "real" floor mounted emergency/parking brake lever! Very cool! Had basically single carb. MGA 1486 in it, I believe. Don't recall the year but figure it was mid-50's car. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25989... MORE
Well... Oil is absolutely coming up through the pushrod tubes...faster than it can drain down...It must be coming up from the lifter gallery as it seems that the lifter gallery is filling first before it pushes the oil up through the pushrod tubes and into the valve-spring-rocker-arm-area. There doesn't seem to be anything leaking (more than should be expected) from the rocker shaft assembly. Thanks again to anyone who has posted... Kevin "kevin_tonita" 25796... MORE
the engine needs rebuilding at the moment as it burns a little oil when reved out of gear - slightly blue, i dont think i will be able to turbo it at the moment because im 20 (= stupid insurance), so would like a build which is a good investment for power later down the road and i think turboing is a good, reliable (cheapish) way to this any ideas on how to do this wisely without wasting (too much) money? has anyone tried avonbar self build kits, are these hard to put together? cheers Rob "Robert EADES" 25775... MORE
The Morris minor engine will bolt straight in and sit on the original mountings as log as you still have them! However there are some minor (?) differences, but very few of these will prevent the car form driving. You will have to fit an electric fuel pump as the original 948 had an AC mechanical pump driven from the crank shaft, the Morris minor had an SU electric pump, and so the block will not have the hole in the side to fit the mechanical pump. The minor engine will be one of three sizes. 803cc in which... MORE
G'day Brad You need two screwdrivers. Put one against the front of the 1st gear central hub, and lever the hub backwards, away from the 2nd gear. With the other screwdriver, lever the 1st gear selector fork forwards. Pop - into neutral. You can actually do this with the box in the car. But too late now! avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 25683... MORE
Until I get the transmission from the 68 repaired, I have dug through the extras in shed. I started with the latest one that came out of a 65 Midget, that had not been on the road in over 20 years. The shifter would not move, and the input shaft was almost locked. I put an old yoke on the back and gave it a bit more pressure and got it to move. I forced the shifter into all gears, and got a nice positive, firm movement on front and rear shafts. The thing that concerned me was the... MORE
Whilst it may not be the trouble in this case, it is possible for broken bits of bearing cage or other unrequired detritus to find its way into the holes in the casing that allow the change rods to move back and forwards. If this happens, the gearbox may be stuck in gear or not go into gear at all. had the problem on one of my cars. Not fun, but it is quite 'do able' R "Roger Stinson" 25698... MORE
I was driving to work this morning no problem. A little chilly but that's all. I had to break hard at one point to keep from running the red light. After that, I couldn't put the clutch into first gear any longer and had trouble getting it into second. When I'd slow down to a stop the car would rumble a little. If I took it out of gear it's settle down but I'd really have to work to get it back into second. Would a hard brake make my clutch go out? Could it be something else? When... MORE
Hi Brad, The selector fork fits around a gear cluster and should move that forward. Lever on the cluster not the bronze fork. What happens is that the gear moves axially along splines/ teeth. There are 3 spring loaded plungers fitted radially betwen the two sliding parts. The outer gear cluster moves too far along the inner and these plungers "pop" out, and wont readily go back in to allow the outer cluster to slide back out of gear. They can be shocked back in if you pry on the gear cluster rather than the selector; Or (better) you... MORE
I have the unit out, cleaned and on the ground. I have the side cover off, and have tried to pry the shift arm forward to get it out of gear. It will NOT move. So before I break something, what am I missing, why will it not move?? Brad Brad Fornal 25669... MORE
mine used to stick in first (the lever used to go 'too far' and it wouldn't come back without a lot of force) and I tracked it down to a worn plunger in the first/second gear assembly. (see factory manual fig F5 item 1) I think the plunger is meant to hold the gear in position on the hub, while that particular gear is selected, but the end on mine was worn down so it no longer had a smooth radius which allowed everything to move too far and then made it difficult to disengage first. You'll need to... MORE
Chris... I have no personal experience with the 1500 motor. Only the prior Series A 1098 and 1275, and damn little with the 1098! However, it is generally accepted by most that the Series A 1275 is a more bulletproof (tougher) engine than it's later Spitfire 1500 factory replacement, as well as being far more "tuneable". However, from everything I've heard from others (on this list) that do own and drive stock 1500 motors, they perform just fine in normal street driving. Only complaint I've heard mechanically (and I've heard this argued) is that as the crank wears and... MORE
Hi, Bree... More specific information would be required in each case for accurate answers, Bree. With respect to the brakes... are you making an assumption, here? Air just does not get into the brake system "automatically" or "overnight"...unless you've suddenly developed a hydraulic leak wherein air displaces fluid which has leaked out or you have suddenly developed a master cylinder or other mechanical problem(s) within the system. Otherwise, besides low brake fluid (when was the last time this was topped off?), worn brake pads are most likely the first place I'd look with a suddenly "soft" pedal (when was... MORE
hello to group i must say that i do not have a sprite/ midget at this time but i have owned over 30 british cars in the past and loved them all, with the only brit in the stable at this time being a 1961 109 land rover wag.iam here to ask for some help with one of my more unusual restoration projects ,im looking for a rear end that will fit in the fenderwells of my 1946 crosley wag.is there some one in the group that can give me some help with demensions from face of brake drum... MORE
Electric fuel pump. If you have a stock one, it will be located above the rear axle on the right side. Turn your key and and see if that is the area of the noise. You might have a have a solid state replacement which never shut off and make that sound constantly, whereas the stock Lucas will shut off when the floats fill up. Welcome, but as a new member, you would do well to introduce yourself and at least sign your name as there are about 600 members here. As a novice, you should check out my... MORE
