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Which brings up a question I have. Is there anything to stop a person from installing an earlier model dash 59 - 63 in a 73 Midget? Realizing the washer switch, turn signal switch and ignition switch would have to come off the steering column. Don "Don May" 24620... MORE
Kelly, I have posted a photo of my 73 original luggage rack in the midgetsprite photos look in the "Don May" folder. Don "Don May" 24595... MORE
Without giving a preference of suppliers I would like to ask what is going on with the turn signals? Also . . . the horn is a high current device, any resistance in the wiring will often render it inoperable. Before you give up on it be sure and check/clean all the wiring connections between the horn button and the horn. I have had two midgets whose horns did not work and that was all that was needed to get the horns working. One was dirt on the wiper arm at the steering column and the other was a... MORE
I need the linkage for this carburator (help)... price? Anyone have a passinger seat? The photo to this car is mg79200 in the photo area. I am so close to driving this car.. I just purchased the radiator.. yippie! "ooohaynow1" 24486... MORE
Thanks for the info Gerard, and here's what I did... I measured the "at rest" distance between the mounts to be 12", but I didn't know at the time to note the tie-rod angle. I picked up the front end of the car, upper arm dropped against the rubber stop, and measured 13.5". Set the car back down gave a tape measure to my daughter and asked her to measure how much the car was moving up and down as I stood on the two front frame extensions jumping up and down myself. Don't laugh=85 it worked. My results... MORE
Hi, Sue... Were it me, I would start with suspension and hydraulics (shocks, brakes), detail the engine compartment while the engine is out and go from there. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24478... MORE
Welcome Sue, To add to Bob's suggestions. Often oxidation on electrical connections is a major problem with cars that are old and particularly if they have sat for long periods of time. There are many spade wire connectors on the backs of switches, gauges, lamps and the wiring harness has many bullet in line connectors, in black insulation tubes. At minimum pull off and push spade connectors back on, or bullet inline connectors apart and back together several times to break the surface crud. Spray with some WD40 before and after you do this. If they look very oxidized... MORE
Hi Drew, I don't know if this is a help or an answer to your question, but I think I would approach it this way. You want your tie rod ends to be as straight (horizontal) as possible at rest. This is for something callled "bump steer". The more angle you have to the tie rods the more toe-in/toe-out you will have as the cars rises or drops. You'll know your upper limit (chassis rising- wheel drop) by your bump stops. Racer's (at least Chuck's blue #50) had adjustable bolts used as bunp stops to limit travel. Lower limit...... MORE
surely the bump stops should be the limits of movement - if the shock absorbers didn't have as much travel, you'd risk bending their rods when you hit a bump. Regards David "David Jacobs" 24473... MORE
You don't exactly say, but I assume you're talking about the front suspension, right? In which case, it's easy enough to drop the springs out and then measure the actual suspension travel between full bump and full rebound. Regards David "David Jacobs" 24470... MORE
What's the normal suspension swing on an early (62) Spridget ? I installed a tube shock kit (by "We Race" or some other name like that) and I need to get a set of shocks to fit. When the car is at rest the distance between the mounting points is 12". I have a heavier "non-standard" engine, 400 lb springs and a =BE" anti-sway bar. What kind of suspension travel should I include in figuring out the overall compress and extended shock lengths=85. plus or minus 3", 2", plus 3" & minus 2"=85 etc. etc.?? Cheers, -Drew Drew @... MORE
Sounds good. Make a careful check of the known rust spots and if all is OK give the old WaxOyl some welly. Sounds like this chap is a bit like me, only mine is an MG. I hope to be driving mine for a good bit yet though ..... Might even have the original steering wheel! R. "Roger Stinson" 24466... MORE
In the process of checking out the clutch slave cylinder linkage I reached up to move aside the ground strap a bit to have a better view. The strap is from the lower clutch slave cylinder bolt to the chassis frame, the normal original configuration. It appeared to be a full strap, although covered with oil and dirt as they often are. A gentle push and it moved aside in two pieces, only a few strands were left under the dirt and oil and they parted under the least amount of pressure . . . Nothing can be taken... MORE
Hi Don, This could be the clutch, but I don't think so. If it were, you have some trouble, even if only occasionally, with second or one of the synchro gears as well. What you describe is probably caused by you first motion shaft continuing to spin even when the clutch is disengaged. With no synchro, there is nothing to slow the spinning non-synchro gear. My interpretation is that the first motion shaft is kept spinning by the pilot bushing or bearing. Could be a burred up bearing/bush (some 1275's has a phosphor bronze bushing, some had a needle... MORE
G'day Bill, Don etc The barrel of the boot lock is different to the doors and the ignition. However the same key should fit. You can remove the barrel from the boot lock - but only if you have the key!!!!!!!!! Otherwise the tumblers jam behind the chrome dress piece that the key fits into. When you inset the key, the tumblers withdraw into the barrel and the barrel can be removed. After you have removed the lock pin. Which you get to after you have filed off the crimps and removed the cover for the retaining spring. Assuming... MORE
Max Well as everyone's corrected my deliberate mistake *s* (gotta give these guys something to do) I can now tell you a little more about your MkIII Sprite. The main changes from the previous versions were, a new windscreen assembly, quarterlights, and as everyone's pointed out, wind up windows, exterior door handles and locks. It lost door pockets but gained a parcel shelf. A new dashboard and instrumentation was introduced, and a new hood clipping onto the windscreen frame top. The other major change was the change to the rear suspension from quarter to semi-elliptic rear springs. Produced from... MORE
Hiya Colin Thank's for clearing that one up for us. It sure looked like a Sebring front end to me, but I had a sneaking feeling it may be a custom job. Sure look's like a beastie to me ! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24389... MORE
G'day Adam, Nigel, Robert, Cap'n Bob et al The car in the photo, 7522N, is mine - the Fright. Bugeye tub, but now with 4.3 lt E-type running gear, except rear suspension which is Lotus 16 trailing arms and Chapman struts. Also Mk III doors and screen. 13" magnesium Minilites at the front and 15" at the rear. That's me in a khana. No problem getting around the flags with as much power oversteer as you like to dial in with the right foot. Look at the rear right tyre profile and compare the "bag" at the top and... MORE
Chris, Been there, I replaced the floor pans, trunk floor inner and outer rockers, kick plates, inner and outer quarters, inner fronts etc. rebuilt the 1098, front end, brakes, steering. Took 5 years. Hope you can make your 2 1/2. Pics available Bob 60 AN5 Tampa MTGBRKR1@... 24384... MORE
Well I've gone and done it..the '60 is coming apart. Engine and trans are out in preparation of a complete refurb. At the very least this will include new inner and outer sills, maybe floors and possibly rear spring boxes. Paint will be redone and interior gone thru. I have a 1275 and ribcase waiting to be rebuilt and installed, along with Weber sidedraft etc. I am seeking suggestions on cams, porting and header. This will be a "quick" street car, neither a daily driver nor a "road racer." Any advice will be appreciated. At this point my proposed... MORE
Adam It looks a lot like a Sebring front end to me, hard to tell from that angle =3D=0D though. Take a look at this one - it's pretty similar - http://www.gerardsgarage.com/ GarageContent/UniqueSprites/sebring/BSCD98.jpg Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24360... MORE
I have the same parts book, 11th Edition (1970) Section Ja.3 - Alignment covers the info. Ja.3 Issue 2 does NOT contain the info I mention, Ja.3 -Alignment Issue 3 does. See illustration Ja.1 Gerard "gerardchateau" 24353... MORE
Adam This really isn't an easy question to answer, which is why I suspect you haven't had many replies! I read this last night and I've been pondering it ever since! The first thing I think you need to do, is really decide what it is you wan =3D=0D t, and what your priorities are because many of your requirements seem to conflict =3D=0D with each other. To be honest, I think you need to forget about Frogeyes, they just are not =3D=0D within your budget of =A33,000, you can get Frogeyes for that money, but yo u'=3D=0D re... MORE
David, Which "the book" are you referring to? There are many. The Bentley (factory manual reference) does if you have a late enough versoin of it. I posted the info in an earlier message. Early cars are opposite the pinion side on LHD cars and on the same side aftter the Triupmph rack was subbed for the Morris one. I am assuming the opposite is so for RHD in both cases. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24322... MORE
see what I mean! The earlier racks had a thicker pinion, which won't fit properly to a later steering shaft. How about that? (sorry, I haven't been concentrating - maybe you have that point covered already?) Guy "Guy Weller" 24301... MORE
