MAIN
Suspension & Steering
Previous Page | Next Page
Paul Aha! Well the Spridget is well known for its 'tail up stance' but not I guess as much as a Scorpion! I was lucky my rear springs were in pretty good condition, no broken leaves, so I basically just cleaned them up and re-used them. Likewise the front springs although these were pretty rusty, took a lot of cleaning up. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28789... MORE
Hi Jim- Regret that I did not put them side to side. Peter May made up the springs for me to my specs. Car actually sits a bit lower than factory spec, which is what I wanted. But is still set up for road use. Can E-mail pics if you would like. Had a number of "discussions" with Moss parts gurus about their springs. They know the height is all wrong! They told me the car would "settle" in time and look a bit more "normal". They also offered to sell me a lowering kit, God bless them. Hope... MORE
Well... While it's a rotating assembly, I've no idea what is "acceptable" or not in terms of balancing criteria. I would assume that some unresolvable tire balancing problems (despite "changes" in tires, etc.) might very well be something other than what they appear to be in accordance with what you found regarding your driveshaft. I dunno. I mean I'm sure the parts are at least statically balanced in manufacture but what tolerances exist within "acceptable" to the extent it might not go "outside" with use or parts "alignment" changes. I mean I understand what you are saying and I... MORE
"Way too much work for this country boy" You said it, Paul. You're not in the spring re-manufacturing business anyway..... .....and how many leaves would you need to remove to make up for this incorrect or incorrectly manufactured part while waving "goodbye" to reasonably correct spring "rate" as you return to reasonable height? They're WRONG to the extent this could become a safety issue in terms of handling...that's it...end! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28791... MORE
Yes, I have a standard Small British Garage (SBG) and have removed two rear axles and suspension in one go. Putting back together will probably as ind ividual parts though. As far as I can remember, I placed a wheelable trolle y jack under the diff housing I put axle stands with about 9" square 1/2" ply between the stand and floor pan (to spread the load) on either side of the car, under the rear bulkhead. I remember having to move these though, b ut at which stage of the operation me memory fails me It will become... MORE
Jim, After moving the stands from the axle to the floor (near the rear suspension mounting points), I walked around the car and suddenly noticed the front floating above the stands (positioned under the front chassis legs...) So the car was performing an unexpected balancing act :-) and almost tilted to the rear. If this had happened it would for sure have fallen off the stands! I immediately increased the front weight by putting a number of heavy items on the front chassis legs! Afterwards I moved the stands to the boot-floor. The car is completely stripped in the... MORE
Nigel- Raised the back end up about four inches! And I confirmed that I did in fact have the 1275 springs and NOT the 1500. The car looked really stupid. Everyone that saw it laughed! Paul "dfwip" 28771... MORE
Yep, Nigel, I do know what the axle weight is like, and it is certainly less without the springs attached, and easier to handle. Since it is removed from the springs by simply undoing 4 U-bolts it really is easier to remove seperately from the springs. I have done the job both ways, more than once and always without help. Far and away the most important aspect is that the shell is properly supported in either case. I think we all at least agree on that point! Guy "Guy Weller" 28754... MORE
Paul What was the problem with the Moss springs? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28751... MORE
Jim- It really was easy. After I had the rear support set up, I actually lifted the car ever so slightly with the floor jack under the diff. This took the weight off the attachment points, and away I went. Not to be a smart ass, but please don't forget the brake lines, emerg brake cable, fuel line and prop shaft. Once it is out, it is fairly easy for two people to lift it onto a set of horses for attention at a comfortable working level. I did a full restoration this way, including painting. By the way,... MORE
I have also removed the axle unit and springs seperatly, which is much easier as there is less to undo. And it is easier to re-install as seperate components when it comes to lining thisngs up. .....But then that is not what you asked about, as I recall. Guy Gents: I do your "deed" for a living. There is NO way in He** I would drop, much less "re-intall (reversal)" as a unit. even with cramped quarters. With a tad bit of luck and time I will get some pics re-oriented in AM. Ed "Guy Weller" 28732... MORE
My rear end has never dropped.....but my wife's has. Jokes aside....I removed mine as a unit. Used a 4x4 across the back behind the fuel tank, supported by jack stands. Placed floor jack under diff and lowered it while having person on each side steady it. Was really quite easy. Wouldn't do it any other way! Paul "dfwip" 28728... MORE
Maybe, but most of my car work is done outside these days. It was only whilst I was in the (extended) rebuild period that it was limited to he confines of a small garage. (= closet, for our American friends) Removing axle seperately from springs is easier! Guy "Guy Weller" 28718... MORE
Hi all, One warning: The rear axle is indeed quite heavy...So supporting the car at the rear under the boot-floor is the best option when you have the car already stripped. When you support the car at the front mounting points of the rear suspension (as suggested by haynes) in this situation you could get an unpleasant surpise... Don't ask how I know this...now the stands are under the boot floor, which is a bit more stable. Best regards, Eeg. "eegoberije" 28715... MORE
Abestea I think it depends a little on which bits you want, but the whole of the front chassis is available as an 'assembly', but I'm sure you can get the individual bits of the assembly, specially as Heritage are remaking the body shells. It really is useful to get one of the Moss 'Parts Manuals' which contains part numbers and prices for every single part you would ever need. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28698... MORE
Jim The only reason I put mine together on the car was because I simply didn't have the space to do it off the car and wheel it under as a unit. If you have that space I suspect that may well be the easier way to go. I do remember getting the shackle bushes on was a real pita, I had to jack up the base of the axle side to get the shackle bushes aligned correctly, all in about 2 feet of space between car and garage wall. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28696... MORE
Hi all, I am requiring some information about the front chassis assembly of a 1500 '76 midget. I know that you can get the chassis legs but are the rest of the components available separately? I am going to contact the spares places tomorrow to find out from them but i thought i would ask all the night owls out there to give myself a head start. Thanks in advance. Abestea "abestea" 28695... MORE
Jim, I think Nigel & I use much the same system, although I would remove the whole lot, axle and springs as a single unit. It is easy enough for one person to manage. Jack the car up and support on axle stands close to, but not obstructing, the mounting plates for the front end of the rear springs. Use a timber support to spread the load if you can, but it isn't really essential. Get it reasonably high enough to give working space underneath. Support the axle on a trolly jack under the centre point of the diff.... MORE
Jim When I worked on mine there were two places I put them, but I used a length of stout timber to spread the loads across the width of the car. The first place was just inside, (towards the middle of the car) or just forwards from where the forward spring hangers mount to. The second was to the left and right of the boot floor (when my petrol tank was removed). So I guess in your situation, I'd be putting them just inside, or just forward of the forward spring hanger mounts with a length of timber running... MORE
G'day guys All this discussion on crunching clutches just woke up my tired brain to something I had forgotten. The diaphram clutch as fitted to 1275cc and 1500cc cars is very sensitive to the amount of travel. They actually need LESS travel to release than the earlier spring clutch. That's one of the reasons the slave cylinder is 1" and not 7/8". Larger bore = less travel. If you have TOO MUCH travel at the clutch end, the diaphram plate will go over-centre, and crush the driven plate back onto the flywheel. I have seen this happen a few... MORE
I'm sure this subject has been discussed before but I'm equally sure you will forgive me for bringing it up again. I want to remove the rear axle housing and springs (as a single unit) from my 73 Midget. Where should I place the stands at the rear? Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB "Jim Crowder" 28678... MORE
G'day guys. No argument - helicoil (or whatever) the holes. Two good reasons. 1.. One of the shock holes has a steel sleeve (that has already been mentioned) and the shock can be too weak to mount properly of you have 1/2" holes. 2.. A properly executed helicoiled hole is stronger than original. Firstly, the bolt now screws into a stainless steel helicoil, not a mild steel plate. And secondly, the securing thread is the helicoil, now probably 7/16" not the original 3/8", and the larger diameter thread takes more load. Next to my workshop is a guy who... MORE
the clue was in a previous post, it's all soldered together empty *then* filled with the magic fluid; so the tube will be fed through the housing, then the bulb soldered on. You just need to find a source of the right size tube, a scrap bulb and head and solder it all together. (don't forget to put the protection 'spring' over the tube before you do the soldering - just imagine how you'd feel if you had to re-do it all!) David 28639... MORE
How about a short sleeve/bushing in the hole to keep the bolts in position and then nuts with appropriate washers underneath? Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 28617... MORE
Hi Trevor- Yes, alignment tool was used. Have played A LOT with bleeding, including pressure bleeding. Absolutely no air. Pushrod moves almost one-half inch. I'm told this is all it should move. I've owned four of these cars. I can tell you for sure something is wrong. While I am sure some driving will help, I fear the tranny will be junk inside of a week. Doing some reading and had a thought. Early slave cylinders were 7/8 bore. Late slave was one inch. What if I switch to an early slave? Will it not give me greater pushrod... MORE
