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Before I install the wrong spark plugs and poke a hole in the top of a piston or two, I thought I better get some professional help from the group. I've installed the Ignitor and a 40K coil, now I don't know what range plug to install. I'm equally unsure about the plug wires. The other up-grades to this engine are a Kent 266 cam, bored 20 over and fully balanced with an aluminum flywheel. What combination of spark plugs and wires would be best suited to this engine. TIA Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB "klutterbutt92530" 27424... MORE


Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with anything near the plugs/dizzy/carb, suspect lack of juice to the plugs is not the issue. I'm going to swap out the coil to see if... MORE


From: Pete Skalski [mailto: pskalski@... ] Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 7:41 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: 1500 - Low voltage troubleshooting - Help Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with... MORE


G'day Robert I have sold and/or fitted about 5 sets of MGB wheels to Sprites. Standard MGB is 14 x 5, and chrome ones are about 2/3 the price of Sprite/Midget chrome wheels. With low profile tyres, they have close to the same rolling radius as the original 13" wheel, but they fill out the mudguards much better. And they fit under the standard square wheel arch. No modification at all is required on the rear. On the front, you might need to relieve the brake caliper a little, as the wheel centre is a different shape and on... MORE


Chris I do understand. It's just that I'm trying to get you to avoid the pitfall I fell into! I wa =3D=0D s much the same as you, did lots of research, got itchy feet, looked at loads of cars, =3D=0D finally fell in love with one, nice colour, wire wheels, looked pretty good, had, h =3D=0D ad lots of work done to it by the previous owners (mechanical) took the plunge =3D=0D and bought it. It wasn't till later when I started looking deeper into the bodywork that I =3D=0D realised that whilst it wasnt a 'rust bucket'... MORE


Hello all, I'm sure someone out there can help, and would greatly appreciate any or all feedback regarding this one. The engine is turning, but not starting. I have a spark at the coil, and the dizzy has not been touched since last start. The coil is the ballast type with resistor, and the wires were moved, in order to address a bit of corrosion in the pedal box area, but all wires were returned to their original position. Thanks in advance for any words of advice regarding a fix. Pete 78 midget Granville, OH "Pete Skalski" 27356... MORE


Robert, Can't resist contributing to this as I just switched to 5.5 inch wheels meself. My car is a SWA and the wheels fitted are Vega pattern American Racing wheels about 20 yrs. old (don't ask) but in fine shape. I am running pre-rubber bumper front springs and stock rears. I had to take the front wheel well up an inch and grind the rear arch "tuck in" flat to get them to fit with 175 tires. Like you, I read Big Daddy and drew Rat Finks. I am now facing installing some kind of flares front and rear... MORE


They do move generally , some more than others , depending on how and where they are mounted. (The moment caused by the distance from the chassis , then a joint and a vertical rise to the centre of mass of the light is the reason) A spotlight 'narrow' beam obviously shows the worst of it. The modern road rally boys build their 'extra' lights into the bodywork of the car, either valance or bonnet. The extra lights only vibrate then as much as headlights . The original trick for the bumper mounted lights was to cut a wide... MORE


Max... Tighten down the bumpers or wherever you have the lights mounted to the extent possible. Using old rubber tubing or a material of that nature, fabricate a rubber mounting gasket (shock absorber so to speak) and there you go! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27257... MORE


Couldn't have been that new if it was a Frogeye in spring 1962 (must have been sitting around for a year or two) ; ) "Gary Lazarus" 27253... MORE


Jim I'm 99.9% sure the oil seal lipped side does indeed face the bearing, in other words it goes in flat side first. Yeah, front suspension can be a nightmare to take apart. Penetrating fluid all over everything at least a day before hand, is a must. Don't forget heat can be very useful as well. Just shout if you get really stuckamundo! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27176... MORE


Robert Thank you for your kind offer. You really shouldn't tempt me like that you know, it's dangerous! As much as I'd like to take you up on your kind and generous offer, once this ones finished I'm going to enjoy it for a while, put it in the garage and move onto sorting the house out! I'm not ruling out a house move either so I think I'll have my hands full for a while. However, I will certainly bear it in mind for when I get the itch again, which knowing me I'm sure will happen. Just... MORE


Ed I only saw an engine plate, do they do the correct VIN (chassis) plates as well? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27133... MORE


Eeg Thank you and I'm pleased to hear your new sill is going to stay on! And yes I've already sprayed the underneath in topcoat, it's all done, as well as the engine bay and inside. I'm just working on the outer panels now. Repair panels are notorious for poor fit, some suppliers of repair panels are better than others (yes Ashley Hinton, you're one of the good ones:) and pretty much all of them require some form of fettling to make them fit correctly. To be honest 2 or 3 mil really doesn't sound that much, are you... MORE


Hi All, I have posted a directory (00 - Spotlights) to show you my new spots on my '64 Sprite. They are Lucas FT6's with replacement Sealed Beams. Wired in parallel, I put a Lucas toggle switch to the right of the steering wheel on the dash. In the end I made the brackets out of aluminium to fashion the metal and then took it to a metal worker who made a set for =A310 out of 3mm Stainless Steel. Thought you might like to see the end product. Thanks for your help Max "Max" 27129... MORE


Nigel (& ohters), Nigel, congratulations having the car moving again! Mine is already for 4 years in the state yours has been for 15....(on axle stands). Did your spray the bottom already, or are you gonna remove the wheels and suspension again? I'm thinking of doing the whole bottom before putting it on wheels again. I've the same kind of problems as you have (small garage, not to much light, damp & cold) but am considering this approach because imperfections won't really show up due to the layer of flexible undercoating hiding them. Then I'm gonna put the suspension... MORE


Yep, finally got the car moving on all 4 wheels! Admittedly I had to push it, but hey it moved! I finished off fitting the front suspension, got the hubs on and went down to the local petrol station to pump up the tires, got them on, lowered it off it's axle stands and pushed it out of the garage - moving on all four wheels for the first time in oooh 15 years at least! So yeah, it was an exciting moment for sure; you'll have to excuse my exhuberance, but I've waited a very long time for... MORE


To all attendees and voyeurs, I had a great time. Some work got done, some real work got done, and some work got real done. Cars were driven in, and pushed out. Cars were pushed in and driven out. Cars were pushed in, and parts dragged out in black bags with toe tags. We met some great folks. Thanks to those that could attend. I think we'll do it again next year. STSP. Frank's still here, grinding away on the white 71, and doing some welding, etc. This guy doesn't quit! Many thanks to the donors of food and... MORE


From: Richard Rivenbark [mailto: rrivenbark@... ] Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 4:37 PM To: Midgetsprite; Spridgets Cc: David Lieb Subject: [midgetsprite] 1275 coil update Thanks to all for the help, especially David Lieb. Yes, the ground strap was connected to the engine. And yes I have 12.1 Volts on the positive connection to the coil. It appears that I have a bad condenser (and the points needed to be cleaned). If I measure continuity where the points actually make contact I can watch the continuity come-and-go as they open and close. If I measure continuity at the spade connector... MORE


Thanks to all for the help, especially David Lieb. Yes, the ground strap was connected to the engine. And yes I have 12.1 Volts on the positive connection to the coil. It appears that I have a bad condenser (and the points needed to be cleaned). If I measure continuity where the points actually make contact I can watch the continuity come-and-go as they open and close. If I measure continuity at the spade connector on the outside of the dizzy I get continuity all the time no matter whether the points are open or closed (continuous or "dead"... MORE


Since we're on the subject of hubs, bearings and seals I have a question. When I removed the rear hubs on my 73 Midget I found the seals directly against the back of the bearings. There appears to be a seat for the seal at the back (inside) of the hub just as there is a seat for the bearing in the front(outside). Should the seal be directly behind and touching the bearing or should it be seated at the back of the hub leaving a space between the two? Also, each hub had the seal facing in different... MORE


Roger Thanks for that link, I did spot the typo and corrected it in your first post, and did read the article - very useful, thanks. The explanation there of the 'slave' bolts is clear, and this morning I nipped up to my local DIY store and bought some. I've just finished using them, and yes it certainly makes life easier, albeit somewhat longer to do. Right, front suspension almost finished! Thanks for your help. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27078... MORE


Well, I just couldn't stand no being in debt. I had come into a small (and I mean small) amount of cash recently due to the sell of a piece of property in a ghetto. I spent a weekend recently at Elizabeth and Fisher Jones place in the hill country of Texas (take your hat off when you say that). I was there to persue Bambi and his kin with my cousin and grandson. We took a nice buck, but that's another story. Those of you who have had the pleasure of seeing the Jones' place will agree (unless... MORE


Nigel, You don't get that problem with the front suspension when you have lowered springs, they just drop in. Beckers "beckers" 27063... MORE


-Hi all for what its worth l just use a pair of 4" long lengths of studding to put the springs in or out again,never had a problem doing it that way . regards wes "wesley5060" 27070... MORE