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Shouldn't make any difference in that respect. Supply can be either pos. or neg. Coil gets hooked up differently for each. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 32827... MORE
Hi Jens, I've never heard of placing it there. I have no idea why they're saying th at. Ask them to carefully explain why when all newer cars seem to have the resistance on the supply side. Many British cars came with resistance wire on the supply side. That's not the ground side!! Why don't you simply go out and buy a coil with a built in resistor? All t his conversation has been going on for ages and nothing but conflicting sto ries and no resolution. Give me your address and I'll gift you a coil and get... MORE
Martyn... I understand you're being a little tired of having to replace, set dwell and adjust timing periodically, when an electronic conversion basically eliminates this chore. The good thing about points is that when the system needs attention, it usually warns you by a progressive fall-off in performance. An electronic conversion is usually "on" or "off" in terms of failure... usually no warning. And of course, don't forget the dizzy needs a few drops of oil every now and then! The forgoing having been said, I've used Crane "700" and "3000" units up until a couple of years ago,... MORE
One additional thing to pour into the stew, most cars have an accessory position on the key. That is to keep current from flowing through the coil for a long time un interrupted by the points. As some one pointed out. If you are getting 12 vdc to the coil and it is interrupted by the points running at, say, 3,000 rpm, the measured voltage will be less than 12 vdc and the length of time the coil is generating heat is less than 100% of the time. (A smart person could figure out what percentage with rpm, dwell... MORE
Good. That's what it would be without a resistor. With the charging circu it running, it might even be higher. With a resistor in place on that side of the coil, when the resistor gets hot, the voltage might drop to about 8 volts. That's where it should be for a "non ballasted" coil. It's possible that your coil calls for reduced voltage soon after start up and it's not getting it. You should be able to get one at an auto supply/p arts store. Don't know the value it would be, but it's pretty low ohms. A sk... MORE
Chris West... If this is what a ballast resistor does for a coil, do you happen to know if this is similiar to what a "vibrator" does for a "magneto" in a system so equipped? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32803... MORE
ah yes, I see now - when I first read the email, I was thinking the resistor was in series with the coil, not parallel. David "David Jacobs" 32799... MORE
does it really matter? Surely it's limiting the amount of current flowing through the coil whichever side it's placed. David 32796... MORE
I think they run directly on the diaphragm spring fingers, with the thrust pad (existing trilobular reaction plate) removed. If you have a larger competition clutch, you might have problems with the finger spacing, though. Peter May Engineering do them..... http://www.petermayengineering.co.uk/specialistprods2.htm Regards David "David Jacobs" 32794... MORE
The typical function of a resistor in either the coil as in built in, special resistance wire to the coil or with one in series between the power supply and the coil is this. When the resistor is cold, it passes a lot of current so the cooil will have about full voltage at start up to produce a hot spark. As the resistor heats up, it reduces the amount of power getting through, so instead of a full 12 volts, for example, it now is passing only 9 volts or so. The coil will still produce a full... MORE
I have aquired a brand new 3 peice clutch kit with carbon bearing. I want to convert to a ball race thrust bearing, SO, does it run on the existing trilobular reaction plate fixed on the diaphragm spring? Or is there a special diaphragm spring with what I call 'curly fingers' for the bearing to run on ? Any info on the bearing? rgds Alan still working on it "Alan" 32788... MORE
Yes, it matters. You will only get reduced voltage between the resistor and ground. Coil will still have the full amount. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 32797... MORE
Pretty sure it would be on the hot side to the coil, not the ground. "Paul Asgeirsson" 32795... MORE
Now the paint is finally going on my 1500 I have been sorting though the bits. On inspecting the front suspension what a surprise, it's all shot. play nearly everywhere it should not be. Do any of the owners clubs in the UK still keep the reamer needed to fit the bush and lend it out? (IIRC Dad borrowed one from the local MGOC back in the '70s). Onto another oddity, My car had the horn in the steering wheel, and the indicator stalk was damaged (a sizable piece of the end of it was missing) and it has... MORE
Yes Brad, I've since found out The up to 72 steering rack brackets were aluminium, then they were pressed steel . I have two sets of '72 and have established that the brackets and rack will have to be transfered to the Frogeye for LHD to RHD conversion. Even though the lock to Lock number of turns is higher. Thanks for the reply anyhow. Rgds alan Still working on it NON LBC An open question. Why do you lot shoot your better politicians / good people ? , (Kennedy, M.L.King, Roosevelt, Lincoln, Garfield, Mckinley, John Lennon etc etc?????) or... MORE
Yep.... You got it big guy!!!! Of course, this assumes a reasonably healthy engine pulling decent vacuum. TWO CAVEATS.... 1) If the engine's clapped out and is pullin' lousy vacuum, the pistons will never "top out", spring tension and fully open butterflies notwithstanding and thus....it follows, that.... 2) the entire induction system has got to be "air tight" as well. You don't need a midget under the hood. You need an SU carb tool kit!!! It comes with a little jet centering tool along with "rods" you place within the piston tubes which temporarily take the place of the... MORE
Since you don't know what they are I guess you wouldn't be able to supply the new rubber bushes I will need for them either. N "Nelson Wittstock" 32753... MORE
Hi Group, My latest challenge is the removal of the bolts that fasten the radius arms to the body. I have removed the nuts from the ends of the bolts and am able to rotate the bolts but they cannot be removed. When I hit the end of a bolt it gives no indication of movement. When the bolt turns, the spacers do not turn with it. I'd appreciate another dose of wisdom from cyberspace. With your help I've been able to dispose of all of my previous challenges. Nelson 62 Mk 2 Sprite "witstock7" 32745... MORE
Rob, That helps. So let me get more clear. The spring rate (color) determines how high the piston will rise in relation to redline under load, for example if it will not reach the top under load or it reaches the top way before red line under load, it is a function of the spring/color and how fast the piston reacts (not how high it goes) is a function of the viscosity of the oil in the damper. Is that close? Now all we need is a midget to curl up in the engine bay and peer into the... MORE
Guys... Can't help but believe we are losing something in the translation, here. A faster rising of the piston (as Duncan points out) can be counterproducive to acceleration in terms of low end torque not only because of the "ramming affect" of a "smaller" venturi at the low end, but also because of the "leaning out" of the mixture on acceleration caused by "too great a rate". The thing is, the "proper weight" oil is "correct" for "rate of rise" in accordance with the maker's design of the application to begin with. The spring controls wherein the needle will... MORE
Don't get confused, Jens. The butterflies must fully open when the accelerater pedal goes fully down. This is mechanical matter. The pistons (air valves) must not reach their full upward travel prior to redline (or reasonably thereabouts). If they do, you require a stronger spring. Probably yellow is next. Aldon would know the different spring rates/colors. The weight of the oil determines the piston's rise RATE. The engine is being revved under no load circumstances. Thus, the butterflies will not require much opening in order to allow the motor to reach it's redline under this no-load condition. Cap'n. Bob... MORE
Ah HAH.... You may have hit the nail right on the head here, Jens... "If (my engine...tuned or not) cannot SUCK (produce enough vacuum) to open a pair of HS2's....." EXACTLY!!!! It is time to "begin at the beginning", Jens. As in MAJOR tune-up. Step one is checking engine "mechanical health".... with valves properly adjusted...time for a basic compression & leakdown check. Considering recency of engine work, you're looking for 150 or better on compression check and leak-down rates of less than 10%. Remember to hold the butterflies fully open (accelerator pedal fully to the floor) during the compression... MORE
Jens Fixed and 'spring loaded' needles are not interchangeable, as the spring loaded needle has a collar attached and is longer than the fixed type. My SU Needle Sizes chart shows me that AAV is indeed a 'spring loaded' needle for a .090" jet. I'm not even sure any HS2's used 'spring loaded' needles, but I'm not sure on that one. N "amukdigiphoto" 32691... MORE
Jens, Fixed needles are held rigidly by a grub screw into the piston, but swinging (or biased spring) needles are retained by a separate collar, they are forced by a light spring so that they contact one side of the jet, so no centering is needed, but the jet and needle both wear more than the fixed type. They're not interchangeable because of the retaining ring on the spring type. HS2s used both types, depending on the year. You can check which yours is by the tag number on the carb float bowl (what do you mean, it's not... MORE
Nope. That round headed bolt just holds the spring leaves together. If you've removed the u-bolt and the two other bolts (which thread into the spring top plate) there is nothing else holding the sprng except rust. Give it a whack, then slide it out. "joe blxfstz" 32680... MORE
