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...this time on a 78 midget. When I turned the switch today, got the usual 3 lights, and then nothing. Until now, never had a problem with starting the car. Something definitely became disconnected from the switch, and will have to get the casing off around the steering wheel to look further. Any idea of what I can expect? I need moral support from fellow spridgeteers. The Lucas beast is alive and well, and I'm doing my best to avoid the thought of selling the car to get away from it all. Thanks, Pete "Pete Skalski" 23781... MORE
G'day guys Just thought I would add my thoughts on the over/under heating problem. My race car has a radiator I had made about 7 years ago. 3 cores and it's so thick it has cut-outs to clear the steering rack mounts! On a 100 F day, I can't get it to heat up. I warm it to around 180 F in the pits, go out for a 10 lap race and come in at 170 F. I was recently asked by a customer to make a copy of the radiator for his car, so with 7 years now... MORE
Hello to all I now have the steering wheel, cowling, turn signal stem assembly and wiper assembly off the steering column. How is the switch removed? I can't find any screws, etc. holding it on. My Haynes manual says I should be able to turn the key to the on position, depress the button and remove the entire barrel assembly. It won't work that way!! I also can't get it to the complete off position to remove the key. The key is somewhat bent in the barrel so I am afraid to work it too hard. My first thought... MORE
Trevor I investigated the possiblity of converting to gas shock absorbers myself and did some investigation into it, but I don't have that information to hand, so I'm going from memory. I think my conclusion was that it wasn't worth the money compared to the benefits received, as I mentioned, correctly working lever arm shock absorbers were perfectly adequate for normal road use. The comments I'd heard from people who had converted to gas shock absorbers followed similar lines - ie the benefits received didn't justify the expenditure. A case of the old 90/10 rule. Other comments were that... MORE
Ah... Beat us to it, eh Trever? And here we are trying to tell you!! You are way ahead of us....back to the shocks!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23779... MORE
Actually, I've already done a 5-speed conversion. This is what lead to the idea of a tighter front suspension. The 5-speed is so smooth I find myself driving the midget much harder. Now that I'm not focusing on double clutching (the syncros were shot in the old trans.) I'm taking turns and bends much faster. ;-) "Trevor Jessie" 23778... MORE
"I might pick up a pair and use them for a while...." Sounds like a reasonable way to evaluate, Trevor. My BE came with the Wheelrite kit (original shocks changed to softer Gas-Adjust GR2's) but had it come with the original levers, the car would be using Pete's shocks today. Everybody who has got them raves about their superiority over those originally supplied and all these people simply cannot be wrong. Peter can also supply them with various valves as well to tailor their stiffness. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23775... MORE
...having installed and run both types on my Midget, and on my B... on both cars they performed about identically. That is... both performed well. The only REAL difference, you'll notice is the tubes tend to add a bit of roll stiffness. I think it's more the mechanics of the mounting, vs lever arm motion with two ball joints in the path, rather than 'shock' attributes. ..again..that's to say the tubes almost act like mini panard rods, adding a bit more 'position maintenance to the suspension geometry through it's range of motion. Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 23774... MORE
I'm not going to say that money is not an issue, but I could convert to tube shocks now by engineering and fabricating my own system for a modest outlay in materials. (time is not currently an issue.) This would allow me flexibility in the type of shocks I could fit. Variable dampening and adjustable dampening are quickly becoming affordable. I eventually would like to have the shocks dampening controlled by remote. It may sound like a "just a gimmick"(and in many ways it is), but my driving needs are so varied that it might be advantageous. I read... MORE
Michael... Recommend you visit Spridget "Tech" section: www.gerardsgarage.com and read section by Peter C. on lever shocks rebuilt the "Peter Way"! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23765... MORE
Jeffrey.... Replace the VW shocks used with the Wheelright kit with Gas-Adjust GR2's (Corvette size). They are much softer and more suited to the Spridget. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23763... MORE
Nigel, I'm surprised that you've heard such negative things about tube shocks. Did these people say that there was no improvement, or that it just wasn't worth the money. I'm curious, because I'm most likely going to convert to tube shocks, but I'm engineering the conversion myself. I agree that the OE works well when it is in like new condition, but I really can imagine that a variable resistance shock with a more rigid upper control arm would tighten up the handling through bumpy turns. Please share any concerns you've heard so that I can address these in... MORE
Michael I'd definately stick with the OE shock absorbers. Everyone I've heard of who've had the gas conversion done have not been that impressed with them. There is reaally nothing wrong with the OE shock absorbers when working correctly. I'd suggest either getting yours rebuilt if they need it or getting an exchange pair - there's not need to go to the expense of a a gas conversion. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23753... MORE
My car has tube shocks on the rear. This is a Wheelwright conversion kit, which uses VW Superbeetle shocks. They are way too stiff. I haven't gone back to the original lever shocks because not only the shocks, but also the straps and links were thrown away by the PO, however I may spend the $300 to do so. Maybe other kits use shocks which are more appropriate, but the VW shocks are designed for a rear end which weighs 2 or 3 times as much, and they are teeth-rattling stiff. "Jeffrey Holmes" 23751... MORE
Michael, The old bounce test is a pretty reliable indicator of shock function. Push the nose of the car down several times and if it rebounds more than one and a half times shocks probably need attention. Topping off the fronts is fairly straight forward. Remove the valve and add. I switched to tube front shocks as mine originals were shot and didn't respond to additional fluid. I/m very satisfied with the new set up. Set me back about $300 from Winners Circle in Cleveland. To my embarrassment I have never touched the rear shocks. They seem to be... MORE
OK, let's try: Looks like a MKII or MKIII Midget according to the grille, bumpers and bonnet with chrome liner (non split rear bumper, thick bumpers, MG grille without the MG badge...). If you look at the seats....The early Midget MKII had a horse-shoe pattern seat, this changed later to the shown striped pattern. The missing chrome stripes at the sides and the Steering wheel horn butten might tell it's a Sprite. So my best guess: - 1966 MKII MG Midget, without side chrome stripes, and a non-original steering wheel It might even be an early Midget MKIII (1966/67).... MORE
I've got a '79 midget. It seems to ride a little rough. I was thinking that maybe the shocks need some fluid. So, I have a few questions: 1. Is there a quick & dirty test a guy can do that might indicate whether more fluid is needed or not? 2. Is it easy for a shade tree kind of guy with limited tools to add fluid to the shocks? 3. What about conversion to tube shock kits? Any feelings? One more question. My dash is split right at the windscreen support bracket. I am going to order a... MORE
The dash cover you ordered is mast likely similar to ABS plastic. Therefore it has already been molded to shape. Follow the directions and it will look fine. Front tube shocks... I plan on doing this myself. I think the most popular kit is from frontline: http://www.mgcars.org.uk/frontline/ . Very expensive, but might be well worth the investment if you dive on alot of rough roads. "Trevor Jessie" 23748... MORE
A follow up on the steering wheel lock clicking. The lock plunger knocking back and forth in the slot on the steering shaft formed sharp ridges on the top edges of the slot which when the steering shaft turned wore down the softer aluminum housing enough that the steel plunger was left slightly above the level of the surround housing and it was catching momentarily in the steering column slot as the steering shaft turned. I removed the steering column and rather than drill out the break off bolts took my Dremal tool and used a small thin cut... MORE
Hi When I turn on the ignition switch, the starter motor starts the engine OK but stays engaged. Is this the ignition switch at about $180 or the solenoid at about $18? I suspect the switch as it doesn't spring back to the run position after holding it in the start position. It has to be manually turned back to the run position where the starter motor stays engaged at that time. Thanks Neil "Neil Hernan" 23722... MORE
Oh, YEAH!! Quick & Fast they were...the 427 astoundingly so! My mech who owns Classic & Muscle Automotive owns a kit Cobra with a Ford "crate" in it, built by a firm up New Hampshire way. Sidepipes and all. Aqua Green with a tan, autumn leaf or biege interior...take your choice! Lovely car....but after 15 minutes of riding around surrounded by those sidepipes, I'm ready for a break!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23695... MORE
I opened a sticking tach and found the trouble to be a warped plastic bobbin that was used to form the wire coil on the end of the indicator pointer. The bobbin walls are very thin as it is mounted on the moving needle, heat and age deteriorate and warp it to a point that it strikes adjacent surfaces causing the indicator needle to stick. I was able to gently pry off the warped and brittle side walls of the bobbin which allowed free motion again. Would not recommend trying this to anyone unless they are very comfortable working... MORE
Rare car with Thomas Denner Bonnet. Togther $3500.00 Bonnet alone $1000.00 e-mail for photos, car is RHD, lots of new parts needs paint and wiring. "Michael" 23633... MORE
After stripping off the front end outer metal work and cleaning the engine compartment I discovered there is a crack in the transmission bell housing. The tab like area at the top of the clutch bell housing where the top two bolts are located has a horizontal crack below them.. It does not appear to be a major structural problem once the transmission bell housing is bolted on as all other areas and bolts are sound. It looks like an easy in place weld job. Is it possible to weld the aluminum housing material? Some PO strangeness as usual... MORE
to stop it engaging, you'll have to get the lock off the column - not an easy job - I've had to do it on 3 different cars :-( The easiest way is to get the column off the car completely and drill out the break-head bolts, though it's sometimes possible to use a sharp small centre-punch and unscrew the bolts by hitting the punch in the correct place. Once you've got the lock off, you can either mount it elsewhere so it doesn't engage with the column, weld a small plate over the slot in the column so... MORE
