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Well....Big Bob.... I cannot source this engine number but... "ass-u-me" ing a high compression 948, the U standing for remote change gearbox "over here". A standard set of Spridget 1.25 SU's with AN needles and blue springs should work very well, I would think. Thing is, you would want this on the better flowing Cooper twin intake manifold if at all possible instead of the stock Spridget (worse flowing) type. And then, the carb mounting angle might be just different enough that use of the Cooper intake manifold might require a little fetteling under there to get proper clearance... MORE
Hello, I have a refinished 850 head for a mini, however, it came on the 1098 engine in my bugeye. Confused,... me too. Seems that when I bought the car I didnt check out the head casting number to make sure that it was in fact a 1098 head. Compression was good, Nor did I check out the casting number before I had the head resurfaced, put in ALL new 1098 valves, springs and guides. Now I have a new 1098 head( checked the casting number this time) but need to sell the modified 850 (compression when it was... MORE
Come on Kevin get into the real world dude! There's a world of difference between structurally repairing a 30-40 year old steel monocoque car which draws 100% of its rigidity from its integral chassis/bodywork and cutting edge technology in building aluminium bodied cars, which undoubtedly have some form of alloy/steel backbone chassis to give the car rigidity. I don't mean to be rude, but if you can't tell the difference between these two things, please don't consider doing any structural work on your Spridget! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26078... MORE
Julien... Well, could be an old or weak fuel pump, lack of a heat shield between carbs and engine (it gets hot under there when not moving at speed) causing fuel to percolate or "vapour lock", or lack of a vented fuel cap (though the latter is usually a case of fuel starvation which shows up under load..as in climbing a long hill with the foot well down). So, number one, check for the heat shield (basically a metal plate upon which the throttle return springs are mounted in the stock set-up). If it's "there"....go to... ...number two; at... MORE
Thanks for your help. I think I'll try and make some brackets out of aluminium and mount them on the bumper-chassis bolts. :) Max "MG_Max" 25998... MORE
Good evening all ... I was a bit concerned that my 'Sprite' had acquired a 'Midget' shell in later life in the shape of a heritage shell ... but it does look good ... Bodywork is white on the new shell... have no idea what the original colour was...the only 2 numbers I have are :chassis AAN10 86855G and engine 12CEPAH15596 but hey Colin it looks like you may have something quite unique ...and it looks very good ... I must admit to finding all these snipets of information very moreish ... I met an old gentleman at the... MORE
Ah, yes... The Nash Metropolitan with "B" Series running gear. My mech recently worked on one of these prior to the owner (son of the father who had owned and stored it prior to his death) taking it out of storage and moving south with it. Neat car. With around only 30K on it, in excellent shape. Had a "real" floor mounted emergency/parking brake lever! Very cool! Had basically single carb. MGA 1486 in it, I believe. Don't recall the year but figure it was mid-50's car. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25989... MORE
Linda My chassis number is 86607 ! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 25945... MORE
Ah, Nigel! I thought yours was a Sprite, not a Midget. So, Austin Sprites on the list is down to 2 again ( I think) Mine, and LindainScotland's. There is another I know of in Cumbria and now Beckers in Australia knows of one. Linda, I would guess your chassis number.......err, sorry, your car's chassis number, is around 86900 mine is 86947, first registerd 26 May 1971. Guy "Guy Weller" 25937... MORE
... Well guessed Guy ... chassis number 86855 ... not quite a Marks and Spencer 8 Nigel ... and no replacement parts required Brad ... just a bucket of anti- wrinkle cream... and this conversation should stop here least Ed gets grumpy ... then no-one will be feeling 'Happy'! ... have a good evening all! "mlin54" 25939... MORE
I have power going into the dizzy, ignition switch off or on. Power to the coil when the points are closed. Still no spark, I guess it's time to replace the cap, rotor and wires. I replaced the coil this morning. I converted the car to an alternator and negative ground earlier. Is there anything there that might be causing the problem? BTW the coil was warm after checking for spark. This is really puzzling. Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25899... MORE
Yes, there's power to the coil. I do need to check the wire inside the dizzy. Everything is +15 years old, no it's sat that long so I would think things would be ok. I'll delve into it further this weekend. "Martyn Eastwood" 25851... MORE
Are you getting power to the coil when the ignition is turned on? I just encountered this on my 65 ford pickup and it was the + lead busted off of the solenoid. Matt Pfeil 76 Midget 65 Ford F100 "matthew pfeil" 25842... MORE
"Checked for voltage at the dizzy", where? The bolt on the outside of the dizzy is OK, but there is a wire that goes from that bolt to the points that isn't really a fuseable link, but blows like one. Check to see it you have a circut from the bolt to the points, and the points have a nylon O that goes through the end of the spring that if the connection isn't just right, no fire. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 25828... MORE
I tried to start the beast after many years and have no spark. I have put new points in and gapped them to spec, checked for voltage at the dizzy- 12 volts, checked the primary windings on the coil - low resistance, the wires all show continuity from end to end. My most likely suspect is the coil since I'm skeptical of the resistance readings, should have had some shouldn't it? Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25817... MORE
Well... Oil is absolutely coming up through the pushrod tubes...faster than it can drain down...It must be coming up from the lifter gallery as it seems that the lifter gallery is filling first before it pushes the oil up through the pushrod tubes and into the valve-spring-rocker-arm-area. There doesn't seem to be anything leaking (more than should be expected) from the rocker shaft assembly. Thanks again to anyone who has posted... Kevin "kevin_tonita" 25796... MORE
shopping for shoes in a Wal-Mart store in Texas. Douglas Hatchett of Brownwood was examining shoes on a rack when a rattlesnake concealed behind a shoebox bit him Monday. The snake fell to the floor, where Hatchett stomped it to death. Police, fire and emergency medical crews were called to the scene. The 31-year-old shopper and the dead snake were hustled to Brownwood Regional Medical Center. There, the snake was confirmed as a rattler, and Hatchett was treated and released. Wal-Mart officials say the matter's being investigated and they have no comment. Brownwood is about 120 miles southwest of... MORE
found this online ad thought i would pass it on..i have a picture of the ca =3D=0D r in my pict folder (62 midget) quote: "The string-back gloves are off... MG Rover is aiming to knock its rivals f =3D=0D or six with a sensational reinvention of the Midget. Inspired by one of the most successful cars the firm has ever built, the dr =3D=0D op-top is aimed at the likes of the Ford Streetka and Smart Roadster - both of which were revealed to international acclaim last =3D=0D year. Other rivals include the forthcoming Volkswagen Polo Spyder and... MORE
The Morris minor engine will bolt straight in and sit on the original mountings as log as you still have them! However there are some minor (?) differences, but very few of these will prevent the car form driving. You will have to fit an electric fuel pump as the original 948 had an AC mechanical pump driven from the crank shaft, the Morris minor had an SU electric pump, and so the block will not have the hole in the side to fit the mechanical pump. The minor engine will be one of three sizes. 803cc in which... MORE
G'day Brad You need two screwdrivers. Put one against the front of the 1st gear central hub, and lever the hub backwards, away from the 2nd gear. With the other screwdriver, lever the 1st gear selector fork forwards. Pop - into neutral. You can actually do this with the box in the car. But too late now! avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 25683... MORE
Got a '75 1500 hundred. There's no spark from the coil. I've got voltage to the distributor through the primary circuit (or at least to the last connector going into the distributor). There seems to be a problem with the ballast resistor in that it gets very hot and doesn't seem to step down from 12v to 7v as it should. I've tried three different coils, but still no spark. This is probably an embarrassingly simple problem, but I'm totally stumped. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks in advance, Rich "rohanley" 25691... MORE
Well, it's been a few weeks since I stirred the muddy water of the list with any gun info, so here goes. My daughter sent me this so I take no responsibility for the accuracy of the statistics. Statistically Speaking According to the US Dept. of Health & Human Services a. The number of physicians in the US is 700,000. b. Accidental deaths caused by Physicians per year is 120,000. c. Accidental deaths per physician is 0.171. Then think about this: a. The number of gun owners in the US is 80,000,000 (yes, eighty million). b. The number of... MORE
Hi Brad, The selector fork fits around a gear cluster and should move that forward. Lever on the cluster not the bronze fork. What happens is that the gear moves axially along splines/ teeth. There are 3 spring loaded plungers fitted radially betwen the two sliding parts. The outer gear cluster moves too far along the inner and these plungers "pop" out, and wont readily go back in to allow the outer cluster to slide back out of gear. They can be shocked back in if you pry on the gear cluster rather than the selector; Or (better) you... MORE
mine used to stick in first (the lever used to go 'too far' and it wouldn't come back without a lot of force) and I tracked it down to a worn plunger in the first/second gear assembly. (see factory manual fig F5 item 1) I think the plunger is meant to hold the gear in position on the hub, while that particular gear is selected, but the end on mine was worn down so it no longer had a smooth radius which allowed everything to move too far and then made it difficult to disengage first. You'll need to... MORE
Hi, Bree... More specific information would be required in each case for accurate answers, Bree. With respect to the brakes... are you making an assumption, here? Air just does not get into the brake system "automatically" or "overnight"...unless you've suddenly developed a hydraulic leak wherein air displaces fluid which has leaked out or you have suddenly developed a master cylinder or other mechanical problem(s) within the system. Otherwise, besides low brake fluid (when was the last time this was topped off?), worn brake pads are most likely the first place I'd look with a suddenly "soft" pedal (when was... MORE
