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Margaret I couldn't agree more, I wouldn't consider myself to be of 'mature' years but I'm no spring chicken either. I despair at the way this country is currently going, it's being ruined by inept, corrupt politicians who are only interested in having their own snouts in the trough, no matter what political party it is, they're all as bad as each other. I honestly beleive this country has such serious, enormous problems, fueled by years of 'conservative party' greed and under funding that no one political party can hope to get a grip on the problems, let alone... MORE
Put a little hook under the oil seal and pull. They even used to have a special service tool to do it. I always used a metal bar and put it under (into) one side of the oil seal and pressed down on the other end using the oposite side of the the housing as the fulcrum. It always worked. If rust is the problem, a bit more elbow grease is required. R. "Roger Stinson" 26512... MORE
That copper stuff is okay for anti-sieze, as on threads, but don't use it in wheel bearings or suspension/steering parts. Any major brand of grease indicated for wheel bearings will be fine. The purists here may object, but any name brand of chassis grease will do fine in king pins and tie rod ends. Some like greases containing molybdenum sulfide, but I don't bother with it. You should use gear oil in the steering rack, however. Probably most important is to make sure everything is clean and greased before you put it back together. I once read an article... MORE
Hi guys Sorry for another naive question! Once I've got the bearings out of the hub, I'll be in a position to start reassembling the front suspension. This is a fairly general question, but what kind of grease/anti-seize compound should I be using to assemble the suspension? Actually thats two questions - What kind of grease should I be using to assemble the suspension components?, and what kind of anti-seize compound should I be using on threads and nuts? Generic 'types' would be most useful, as brand names tend to be meaningless if they're only available in the US.... MORE
"you change the endearing handling by a ton..." per Ed! :) This is true. The suspension was built with a certain sized tire contact patch in mind. When you change only the contact patch (larger, most especially "wider") you can expect more stability/grip but less "tossability", all else remaining equal or the same. One of the reasons for this is the slight change toward neg. camber which comes with the slightly wider track, most especially when teamed with a wider wheel. Now you can keep the "tossability" but move it up in the speed range with the right combo... MORE
the reduction in unsprung weight, or more correctly, the *ratio* of unsprung to sprung weight, has more of an effect on how the suspension works (as the springs and shock abosorbers work more efficiently) than outright straight line performance so it's rather more "less" than "more" ;-) Regards David "David Jacobs" 26469... MORE
Hi, Bob.... Yes the return springs are installed I have new ones to put in. The butterflies have been modified per Vizard, I wonder if that might have anything to do with the problem. The fast idle screws are not even touching the cam. Something must be holding the butterfly open a little. Off come the carbs tomorrow. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26450... MORE
Hi, Martyn... Your understanding of the spring as stated is correct. But, as can be seen, this has nothing to do with idle. While the accelerator cable is not connected, the throttle return springs are.......correct? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26449... MORE
Bob, The accelerator cable is not connected as I am trying to synchronize the carbs. I have had a frayed cable years ago. I'll check the fast run screws. I hope that's the problem. The thought on the spring was that a stiffer spring assuming 4.5 oz/in would result in a higher load being applied to the piston for a given vacuum so the piston would not rise as far due to the load applied. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26448... MORE
Martyn... While there might be a slight change in power with great changes in altiude, this seems a "sudden" change according to your mails as well as one of great "extent" as well....at least this is the impression I am getting. So, I don't think the altiude difference accounts for the problem you are having, For things to suddenly change to this extent...I'd be looking for something pretty obvious like a frayed accelerator cable which can "hang up" in it's travel (just replaced my choke cable today for this very reason), etc. Wish I was there to see it... MORE
Listers, one and all. For the past few years we've had a group of enthusiasts gather in Madison WI (USA) for a bit of post-Thanksgiving turkey Sprite dismantling and/or rebuilding called Save Our Sprites. These "events" take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving (Nov. 28,29 this year) and are viewable over the internet through some video magic. (details later) We hope to improve that this year with faster service for better interaction. In the past, those who wanted to contribute, but couldn't attend, offered food and beverage from their locality. We've had some great variety from scrapple to... MORE
Martyn...you misunderstand. The spring over the air valve in the SU carb determines mainly when the air valve reaches the full open position with respect to "redline" assuming all other things equal. This is it's only purpose. As cam profile duration and lift increase (over "stock") so shall vacuum produced by the engine at lower rpms DECREASE. IOW......at lower rpm (idle) the engine will "suck" LESS, all else being equal. With respect to your problem, vacuum in this case is working FOR you, not against you. Make sure your throttle return springs are properly hooked up and that the... MORE
Setting the ignition timing made a big difference, it now idles at 1500. I believe that the VP3 cam is causing a large vacuum and the pistons are being raised more than is normal. Cap'n Bob suggested using a stiffer spring in the carbs. Those are on order so next weekend should be the final step in getting the beast sorted. I put 30wt oil in the dampers and that helped with the piston oscillations but they are still more open than I think they should be. Am I correct in thinking the stiffer springs are the right solution... MORE
Martyn, You should be able to kill the motor by lowering the idle screws that hold the throttle plates open. The throttle plates are before the pistons and the only way the pistons will rise is if the throttle plates are open so springs won't do anything for idle - find out why - it is something basic. The throttle plates should close tight enough to hold liquid. Jon "jon paschke" 26430... MORE
Donovan Welcome to the list. Plenty of good advice here for 'restorers' on pretty much everything you need to know about putting one of these little cars back on the road. Floor/rear spring mounts/sills are typical rust spots on these cars and the quarter elliptic spring mounts are somewhat more difficult to repair properly than the semi elliptic spring mounts. Shout if you need any help : ) Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26417... MORE
funny amount of positive camber. I did this at an event one time many many years ago. I had help from a friend who should have also known better. We both were on the receiving end of lots of jibes and laughs from all the other club members who witnessed our folly!!! You can check: http://www.ahsdc.org/goblins/tech/frontend.htm for some diagnostics courtesy of the late Bob Gill and Gillspeed. If you don't find anything seriously wrong, then it is time to inspect the engine bay for signs of a smack on the front left side. (substitute front right side in case... MORE
Just thought I'd introduce myself as I am new to the list. I recently began the restoration of a 61 Midget. The outer panels are excellent with rust free fenders, hood and trunk lid. That's the good news. The bad news is the floor and sills. The sills aren't terrible but the floor is almost non-existent. I'm going to be replacing the rear spring mounts etc. as well. The car was canabalised a bit so a few parts are missing. Ebay has been helpful for those. I may make pleas to the list for parts on occassion. I'll be... MORE
Nigel, The second "Oct 69" is probably a misprint for "Jun 70" - if you look at his table on P112, that agrees with Anders Clausager's (official BMIHT archivist) chassis number/dates table in his "Sprites and Midgets - The Complete Story". There are some deliberate gaps in the sequence so new models could start at **501. Regards David PS You don't make clear whether your chassis no.86697 is a Sprite or Midget - Midget chassis numbers overlapped Sprite ones around this time; I know you've mentioned it before, but speaking as a fellow pedant, you need to be more... MORE
Hello all. Now that I have finally got my '79 Midget running good ti is time to turn my attention to the front end. My left front wheel is out of line. The wheel is pushing out at the bottom if viewed from the front of car. It is a more up and down than in and out sort of thing. The wheel needs to come out at the top to make it even (staigh). I am pretty sure this can not be achieved by adjusting the tie rods? Otherwise the car drives straight and sto ps straight without... MORE
Hi guys Was just checking something in the 'bible' and I noticed something strange. I think Terry Horler's made a mistake somewhere. On page 116 under Sprite MKIV and Midget MKIII Production Changes it says - GAN5-77803 (October 1969) GAN5-89501 (October 1969) Big gap in chassis numbers there . . . GAN5-89515 (Jul 970) GAN5-96273 (Dec 1970) Is he saying that 14 cars were built between October 1969 and July 1970? My car was chassis number 86697 and reckoned to have been built between May and June 1970. Me thinks Terry Horlers got his chassis numbers and dates way... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
I know this is basic but maybe it will save someone else a lot of frustration. The previous owner of my car had installed a Pertronix distributor conversion on my 1963 1098cc Sprite. No other modifications; no new wires, coil or plugs. Since I drive this car to work every day, I decided to replace all of the basic electrical components; relay, fuse box, spark plug wires etc. I also decided to replace the Pertronix unit with a new one AND their coil. Having accomplished all of that, the car ran hot, stumbled until it got warmed up and... MORE
Ahh Cap'n . . . ever the diplomat, you should work for the UN : ) Have an extra large sized Jumbo MickeyD's Caffeine injection on me ! You're right of course, It's very difficult to give people advice on this list without seeing the problem first hand, all you can really do is 'steer them in the right direction' (pun NOT intended *g*) Let's face it, unless the front suspension has been meticulously maintained, which few are, or had a recent front suspension rebuild (like mine was) they could all do with a strip, inspection and thoroughly regreasing.... MORE
If it is the altitude thats causing this sluggishness, which it sounds like, try switching to leaner carb needles and springs. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26318... MORE
Rod Welcome to the list. As people have said before it could be either the steering rack or the kingpin thats causing your problem. Although in my opinion it's more than likely the kingpin thats causing it. Non-centering of the steering is a classic problem relating to worn/out of adjustment/non-lubricated kingpins, it is the fit of the kingpin that governs steering centering. Also, knowing how poorly maintained front suspensions are generally and how wear in them can affect steering, and you having just acquired this Midget, in my opinion its almost certain its wear in the kinkgpin assembly. The... MORE
