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Early rubber bumpered cars have the 9.85" springs, or at least mine does. A pparently they changed the spring pan on the shell to raise the height, bu t later the lengthened the springs.. unknown if they altered the cross memb er on the shell again. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 33117... MORE
Don Non RB front springs would be springs for chrome bumpered cars! And if you're considering this option (which seems a reasonable option) don't forget the bolts that hold the A frame spring pans in place are high tensile steel, so if you need to get some longer ones, which you will do, get longer high tensile ones. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 33107... MORE
Thanks Bob, A thought just came to mind. My stock 73 rwa is a full inch and a half lowe r than my 74, now with the bugeye bonnet. I think perhaps a PO installed ne w springs at some point on the 74 as they look fairly new which makes me wo nder if he installed later model springs by mistake. Would you, are anyone else on the list, happen to know what the actual length measurements of th e uncompressed springs are for the early chrome bumper midgets and for the later rubber bumper model midgets are... MORE
The 'UG' part of the chassis number tells us it's a 1976 model year car, and the actual number 169542 indicates it would have been made in late '75. The engine number prefix FP says it's a Midget engine, not a Triumph Spitfire or 1500TC/Dolomite saloon engine. The suffix UE means North America (except California). Regards David "David Jacobs" 33102... MORE
I lowered my 1 =BD inches by putting in longer bolts with matching spacers cut from pipe above the spring pans. It is fast, easy and best of all cheap. Nigel is correct, don=92t forget to get grade 8 bolts for the replacements. I took out two bolts opposite each other and put I the longer bolts, then slowly back out the other two short bolts so you always have two bolts holding the spring in place. They can be dangerous. Back out the first two and insert the spacers and snug down then the same with the others.... MORE
Thanks for the info Biff, What are "non RB" front springs? Don "Don May" 33095... MORE
Hi guys, been a while since I posted last. My "Spridget" project, bugeye bonnet on a 74 rwa midget, is nearing completion and is actually on the road now. Still in its beautiful primer gray color :-) However . . . without the weight of bumpers, window mechanisms, wind wings, and lighter front end weight the body rides about two inches higher than I would like, in fact looks a bit strange because of the body hight. Would like to lower overall at least 1 1/2 - 2 inches. Would appreciate lowering suggestions. Anyone cut off the front spring... MORE
Don, You can lower the front buy installing non RB front springs and if that dosen't lower it enough put in spacers between the spring pan and the A-arm. Spacers can be made from some thick (1/4") wall pipe/tubing and longer mounting bolts. Cutting down the front springs would be my last resort. For the rear a spacer block between the axle and spring. The spacer would be a block the width of the spring with a locating stud on it's top to fit the upper spring plate and a hole in the bottom to clear/locate it on the... MORE
I used an air compressor, with 5-8 PSI. Any more pressure then at and things could get messy. Put your hand over the bore so you can catch the piston and spring, when it comes out. "Chris Eastwood" 33065... MORE
Nigel, my '74 has the same style front end, which I think was fitted after a front end shunt; I gather it was what BL were selling after 1275 production stopped, but before British Motor Heritage and/or others started reproducing the correct part. It's not quite a 1500 item, as they have provision for the reinforcement members and what are depressions in the chrome bumper type are actual holes in the 1500 valance; but you are right, it does seem to be based on 1500 pressings. Regards David "David Jacobs" 33038... MORE
These are relatively inexpensive and considering the problematic system per se......I'd spring for a new one, Nigel and be done with it? :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33037... MORE
Yeah I should've. More interested in getting in and driving before it got dark - beautiful evening (g). I suppose I will take it down (and the other side too) and do that at some point soon. By the way, I found that when I started removing the bolts to the plate, the springs descended along with them...I put another jack on the spring itself next to the plate to keep the assembly intact while I dealt with the plate. Steve Steven Michelsen 32972... MORE
Some kits use the original brackets turned the other way and swapped over to the other side of the car, but the Spax kits for 1500 Midgets (as shown in the MG Owners' Club accessories brochure) use brackets that look like the one in your photo. If you jack the car up with the jack under the body, (the front mount for the rear spring is my preferred choice) then the weight of the axle just sits on top of the spring with no extra load on your broken plate. Once the U bolt nuts are removed the plate... MORE
Hi Jim, The pertronix still has too many wires coming out of the dizzy and coil to look stock, but the Crane module can be mounted inside the car under the dash, too. Pa Hi Jim, Meant that to apply to points that fail in a week. Sorry for the confusion. Both Pertronix and Crane are top notch units. I've just had such wonderful use with Crane, I have a bias towards them. I've noticed from the list that many have complained about the early failures of some Pertronix units. Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32947... MORE
It seeems that the consensus is to "just fix it" by welding the bracket back together, preferably with a little extra reinforcing. By the way, I called every SPAX dealer I could find and found that none of them sells the part. I am beginning to think "the part" never existed, it was always a welding job. So now I have a new question: The plate that forms the bottom of the bracket is also the base of the spring. Should I support the spring in any particular way when I remove the four bolts that hold the plate... MORE
Looking under my '78 Midget yesterday to investigate a little rattle (probably just gravel in the road), I discovered that the bracket supporting my left-rear SPAX shock had broken clean off, and the shock was just dangling! I must confess that I don't know if this has been this way for 5 minutes or 5 months. So I am faced with a bunch of questions... - is there a source for a replacement bracket? - should I find someone who can build a new one? - can I drive the Midget with this looking this way? Please have a... MORE
Shocks are OK, nothing wrong with them. As for the rest, one wishbone as I said is serviceable, just the pin won't come out. as for the rest, maybe I should mention I do have a workshop sufficiently tooled up to make the kingpin bushes from stock! although I don't intent to do so. As fro he wishbones the tine it would take me to remove and replace the threaded section VS the 100 UKP it would appear as though a new pair would cost to buy make it well worth me reconditioning them myself. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 32922... MORE
Guys - While dissasembling my front suspension last night, one of the bolts which clamp the shock pivot arm to the small shaft at the top of the spindle broke while turning it out, are the upper shock arms available new from suppliers, and also how about the rubber bushings and the mentioned small shaft thingie which it mounts too? Everything is locked tighter than a drum, and was wondering if I should just cut the small shaft thingie off and replace both it and the shock lever arm, I'm sure all these little bits have proper names but... MORE
Just to add to the brake switch discussion. I just replaced the switch on the brake pedal on my '74. Raise the hood and locate the pedal box just behind the left front fender. There are 4 screws holding the cover onto the box. After removing them, the pedals will be visible and you can see if the plunger on the brake pedal switch is working properly. If there is any question, unhook the switch and use a jumper wire to connect the two wires coming from the wiring harness. If the brake lights light, the switch is faulty.... MORE
Hit a mild problem with the front end of the 1500, no surprise the suspension at the front is wobbling about. Passenger side turns out to actually have a good kingpin on it, but the lower wishbone bush is shot, it's way off centre and wobbling about like a good'un. Having drilled the coter pin out (which appeared to be fitted upside down, with the nut on the underside?)the trunion bolt(?) holding the kingpin on if stuck solid to it, so I have had to take a hacksaw to it. The two ends of it that were in the... MORE
Jeesh...the "Toyman" is literally falling apart here! Becoming a physical wreck long before his time. ( (Too many late nights, toking and drinking combined with weird sexual "gymnastics" and general "over-activity" I suspect?:) Anyway...the torque figures in the book for the head consist of two..."early" and "late" studs. I've always had the "late" studs and have always torqued to 50lbs. with the exception of my '74 Vizardized 1340 which ran 11.0-1, so we went to 60 on 10 studs, and 30 for the front "bolt". SLIGHT seepage of oil between the head and block is really nothing new or... MORE
FINALLY getting enough strength in my arms again to work on the car. Pulled ligament in right shoulder, and tennis elbow on left arm pretty much decimated my sex life. Um wait, that is another e group. Anyway, I think I have found the root cause of my oil problem. I put the head on, torque it down with my trusty Taiwanese click wrench to 42 pounds. They final torque at 50, so for shits and giggles, I got my $5 flea market Craftsman beam wrench. Believe it or not, my Taiwanese wrench was not torquing as tight as... MORE
Thanks for the replies, I ordered a Pertronix system and coil. I've never been able to set the dwell to my satisfaction, I've owned the car for 20 years! I always got it running reasonably well. So now with the hot street engine I believe that the ignition could and should be improved on. Cap'n Bob I agree that electronics give no warning of an impending failure but elimination of a maintenance issue is worth it since my son will be driving it mainly. The other reason is the inferior parts that are available these days. Yeah I know... MORE
Robert Thanks for your interest, it was a good day, the picture was taken at Hermitage hall near Downham Market Norfolk on the original mediaeval pilgrims way to Walsingham. The photo shows 14 of the Spridgets and a Le Mans replica MGA, you may have to blow it up a little to see the detail, my MK III Sprite is the one in the Gazebo. The event took place on the last day of May which is spring bank holiday in England. The iris blue frogeye on the left hand end of the line belongs to Diane who's husband... MORE
I'm contemplating buying an electronic ignition system for the 65 Sprite. Are there any favored ones over another? Also is it worth buying a coil by the same manufacturer, possibly better quality? We are fed up of dealing with points anymore! Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 32816... MORE
