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Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
"...all you can do is steer them in the right direction...." LOL......priceless, Nigel!! I recall when I could not get the toe to stay put on my '74 Midget when I first acquired it. After replacing tie rod ends, bearings, etc., I finally just broke down and replaced the whole suspension with new parts. And prior to this, it WAS "stiff" and while it became less stiff with much grease, it then became loose due to worn clearances, even as it became less stiff as we continued to grease it often. So diplomacy aside, it can be just as... MORE
Rod... Nigel may be right (probably is because his reasons are sound) but, go the "inexpensive" Cap'n Bob's suggestion first because grease in the steering rack will cause the same symptoms of heavy steering and an unwillingness to self- center and it's a lot less expensive fix, in the event!! :):) There is nothing "wrong" with the front end suspension set-up other than it's rather "crude" but Nigel is absolutely correct in that premature wear is caused mainly by a lack of proper maintenance as in not following factory recommended lubrication schedules. And yes, the king pins (and everything... MORE
Brad... Problem with Rod is stiffness.... which, if you look at the above sentence is sort of funny in it's own way (not that there is anything wrong with that!) though we are talking about his Spridget's steering, of course. :) Geoff Branch has the problem with "sound" coming from his front end, so I hope he is listening to you...:):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26316... MORE
even if you're having your car garage serviced, it doesn't stop you greasing the suspension in between services. For the fanatical owner, weekly is not too frequent! David "David Jacobs" 26302... MORE
On my Mk2 Midget, circa 1966, the inner column was left natural at the bottom. R. "Roger Stinson" 26299... MORE
how do you go about re-cutting the thread in the damper pot, to screw in the piston rod cap? David "David Jacobs" 26293... MORE
Hi, Rod...welcome. Can be either/or. You will notice on the steering rack that the lubricator nipple looks to be a regular grease nipple...well, it's actually a nipple for an OIL gun with the correct fitting, such as one would find at a Marine Supply Store. Most people don't realize this and grease the rack instead of "oiling" it. Not much of a problem in nice, warm summer weather but, as soon as it cools off, the steering becomes as you describe it (assuming it's just this and not kingpins, etc.). Normally, warming up the boots covering the rack than... MORE
I have just acquired a 1965 sprite and when driving the steering seems very stiff, and when cornering if I releases the steering wheel it does not return to center. Could this be a king pin problem or a steering rack problem. Thanks "roderick_ralph" 26297... MORE
Hi all,is there many of you out there who have used the engine from the marina/ltal for your cars,l have just fitted mine so l had better get on and put the rest of the car together so l can run it.While on this subject and if its a help to any one,l have used a inlet manifold from titon motor sports to mount a carb from an MG metro,but even using that manifold the carb was very close to the bonnet,so l cut 1/4" off the damper piston rod and then put the damper pot in the lathe... MORE
I have not seen the manual but what happens when the main hydraulic system fails is the leveling suspension system and the brake system are on the same hydraulic line from the main reservoir. When the car is moving it is in the up leveling position so the pressure from the weight of the car lowering after main hydraulic system failure provides enough hydraulic pressure for the braking system to come to a safe immediate stop. Immediate being the key word. Once the car lowers nothing but the emergency brake works. Don "Don May" 26305... MORE
Rick writes, in part, "Does the owner's manual contain suggestions...." LMAO! In the SAAB 340 I flew the "red" hydraulic light (steering, landing gear and flaps) came on when you had lost all your "main" hydraulic fluid. The emergency action item for this event was "Hydraulic Pump Switch to OFF (from AUTO) which was hilarious as at 3,000psi, you could never in a million years get to the switch in time....a completely useless red light if there ever was one!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26295... MORE
Hi guys Anyone know how the inner bottom part of the steering column was finished? I mean the inner 'bit' not the outer 'bit' which is finished in black. Was the inner bottom 'bit' also finished in black or left au naturelle ? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26283... MORE
My Brother-in-law just bought a 72 Citroen DS 21, the gauges are Jaeger Electronique. . . . It like ridding on air sitting on overstuffed living room couches. It has a central hydraulic system that runs the suspension, transmission, power steering and brakes . . . an inch and a half round red warning indicator is in the center of one of the gauges labeled "STOP", needless to say it is the hydraulic failure indicator. Being Scotch, Irish, French and German, and who knows what else I have a broad range of folks I can be politically incorrect with.... MORE
To my spark plugs that is! I've replaced the points and wired them correctly, new rotor, cap and wires. Still no spark, I'm lost as to the problem. The points have voltage on the outside contact when open and voltage on the inside when closed, referencing the shaft as the inside. I checked the wire to cap connection with an ohm meter everything's good there. The coil gets power when the points are closed, the coil is new also. Does anyone have an idea as to what I've over looked? Thanks. "Martyn Eastwood" 26273... MORE
Martyn, A bit confused by what you mean here. "The points have voltage on the outside contact when open and voltage on the inside when closed" Their should be no reading of voltage between ground and either of the point contacts when they are closed. If you have voltage between chassis ground (body of the distributor) and either of the point contacts when the points are closed you have a ground problem. The stationary point contact should always be at ground level. Check your ground wire from the stationary point contact base plate base and the case of the... MORE
Hey guys, I am thinning out the heard(sniff...sniff!) as I am moving the hell outa the SF bay area to Fresno! I canactually afford to buy a house there(and get to work on and eventually my Girlfriend(fiance)'s dad's bugeye....so...here goes..later on I will get an early sprite of some sort(sooner than later, but the less to move/store the better..may e selling teh westfalia too..) 1963 Midget Right hand drive Roll-bar origional colour green, but been red most of life I think, currently hot rod black primer good running engine, drivetrain, suspension needs to be gone through as usual the... MORE
David I sympathise, I've been there. My current restoration efforts are at the second attempt. I did start working on the car about 13 years ago and welded in the new inner and outer sill and footwell side panel and had the new floor in position but not welded. I soon found other distractions and never went back to it! I only really, early this year, garnered the enthusiasm to get back to it. The only inspiration I can offer is to think of the car as 'sections of work' rather than an entire mass of 'things to do'.... MORE
I have a restored 60 Bugeye that I bought from a P.O. that had stripped, primmered the body, and installed the disc brakes, rear end, and brake system(new), had the engine, transmission, rear end rebuilt, bought ALL NEW chrome and glass for the car. I am self employed at an obscene hourly wage, so I don't work very much ($100.00 hr), so I had my car painted and then I assembled, re- painted, Bought & painted hardtop, re-painted car, repainted car & hardtop, in 14 months with a total cost (me + P.O.) of 18,000 in parts and labor... MORE
Nigel, Couldn't agree more. Concours isn't worth the effort. Like you, I bought my car to drive. I've loved LBC's since I was a kid. I actually bought and drove a '69 Triumph GT6+ when I was 19 and have been hooked ever since. Had to sell it after 9 months for the college fund but I sure wish I had it today. Unlike you however, I always planned a non-original car. In my opinion, driveability is somewhat compromised by MG technology which is a polite way of dissing Lucas. My best improvement to the car was dumping the... MORE
Hi guys Quick update on the restoration progress. At last ! ! ! ! I've been able to put some colour gloss on the underside, can't describe how pleased I was to finally see some colour going on after so long. The car is currently lying prostrate on its side while I put the colour on the top half. I shall turn it over and paint the bottom half very soon. The intention is, to get the underside finished, then re-assemble the suspension components and get the car movable on its wheels. I'll then be able to wheel it... MORE
Hi guys I'm about to paint my rear axle, which I'm assuming is gloss black like most of the other suspension components. The question is, is the differential carrier /cage also painted black or left in its natural silver alloy finish? Thanks in advance . . . Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26169... MORE
Hey not so much of the D in DPO. Yes they were originally bolted but this is a critical area in the strength of the rear suspension mounting and my very expert welder who knows these cars inside out always welds it. "Jeremy Cogman" 26156... MORE
A bit of advice please. Reference the cover which is fitted over the spring box after the springs are inserted: Does this cover have to be welded in place or do the fixing bolts provide sufficient clamping force to disperse the forces encountered in this area? The old cover was welded, however so was anything else that could & should have moved! Thanks in anticipation. Phil Nicholl '59 Frog. Rugby, England. "Philip R Nicholl" 26138... MORE
AH, HAH. Changes the whole story, Mike. Yep.... corrosion in the tank seems to be the culprit, then. But check that fitting where the tube goes into the tank, 'cause it could be a "combo" situation....a little contamination of the fuel supply along with an air leak where the outside tube to fuel pump line meets the tank. Hope this cures your situation...most likely will I bet, at least temporarily. Now...do you overhaul the old tank to get rid of the corrosion problem ("coating") or do you spring for a new one, considering the prior problem at the external... MORE
