MAIN
Electrical System
Previous Page | Next Page
Nigel I had the same thing happen to my trip odometer. It broke off where the shaft was cross drilled just outside the main body of the odometer. If you have access to a metal working lathe it is a simple job to make a small shaft coupling and a new knob. I did it with mine and made the new knob a little larger so it is easier to grab. I posted a photo in the photo section of the group if you care to look at the way I did it. It is under "Odometer Knob." Actually... MORE
Rick The answers to these questions are as long as they are short! I can tell you what I did, but I'm not sure it will help you in your situation. I stripped all my interior paint back to bare metal using Nitromors paint stripper, washed it down with water, dried it, cleaned it all with a wire brush zip wheel in an angle grinder, sprayed it with etch primer, high build primer filler and finally top coat. I removed the carpet glue and (one of the worst jobs of the lot) the underseal/bitumen panels on the trans tunnel... MORE
"Maybe condensation...." Absolutely!! As previously mentioned... a normal part of start up from cold in the morning, most definitely with a car left outside overnight, and most definitely in cool, damp weather. Problem is, I'm "over here", Guy Weller is "over there" and Jens is somewhere else! So we can't see what Jens is looking at under these circumstances in terms of "extent". Is it normal, or "abe normal" (courtesy, "Young Frankenstein":) It sounds abnormal considering it happens every morning to a great extent, whether the ambient air is "dry" or "wet". The engine warms up after a couple... MORE
Alan I can't comment on the Frogeye ones, but I can on the 72 ones (assuming there was no change from the 71 - 72 model year) as I've recently had them off my car. They were definitely NOT plated in any way. I know because I cleaned mine up with a wire zip wheel in my angle grinder. They are a natural finish, of some form of aluminimum or alum alloy casting. They're definitely NOT steel - take one off and pick it up - its very light - no way is it steel. And the 'yellow' finish... MORE
Whats up Roger I found that the steering wheel isnt the main problem. Its my frickin long legs and my propensity for wearing work boots. After removing the steering wheel I found that it made it easier to get out but I still hit my boots on the front edge of the door opening on the way out. Im hoping that the modification that Im making to the bulkhead just behind the seets will help even more. Because Im slightly over 6' I have to slide the seat all the way back "but" I like to sit in a... MORE
Hey all. Yes, it's Graziano. Frankenstein@... is my "dummy" address for yahoo groups. Please respond directly as I'm on the digest. Midget 1500 with twin HS4s, 285 cam, .30 over, head work, 13 row oil cooler, and headers.. As I mentioned a while back, I'm having trouble with the car getting hot here in Tx, which is causing vapor lock. I'm re-installing the original 3 row staggered radiator, and standard water pump with an electric fan. 1) should I wire the fan straight to the ignition so that it runs when the key is in the "on" position whether... MORE
This has been an interesting thread. It would be interesting (perhaps only to me) to do a little test. I don't have any idea how to do this, but if someone could take like a fishing scale, you know the type, you hang it up and hang a fish under it and the scale tells you how much it weighs, and attach it to a LBC at rest, on level ground in neutral, and then pull it until it moves and note how many pounds of force it takes to start it rolling and then note how many pounds... MORE
Just as a matter of interest, guys, I've got a 1500 motor out of the car at the moment and have replaced big-ends/mains/thrusts and noticed that the cam lobe which operates the mechanical fuel pump is worn right away! The motor itself has only done about 40000 miles and someone had stuck a electric pump on it, probably believing it had failed. It actually works fine in your hand, but the cam doesn't operate it! Just a thought before making a decision. Mark. "spritelychap" 32026... MORE
Ed, All kidding aside, I'm not even sure yet that I want to replace the mechanical pump with an electric. I am going to the twin SU setup but am disgusted at losing a mechanical pump so quickly. Your opinions greatly appreciated. If electric is the way, part numbers would be great. Even after working on the little best for 5 years most of the time I'm in unfamiliar territory. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 32020... MORE
Dear Listers, After my mechanical fuel pump failed at 1500 miles I am entertaining the idea of going electric. The enigine is out so.........! Found a Walbro fixed electric pump 2.5 to 4.5 lbs. pressure delivery on JC Whitney. Should I make the swithch? Is the Walbro a reasoable unit? Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free robbiesg@... 32012... MORE
"Surely they should last....." Depends upon use over time. As we know, when they sit (especially "unprotected"), certain items not only continue to wear, they wear at an accelerated rate due to lack of lubrication along with "water within" (condensation, etc.). My car sat outside (but under a cover) a good part of last winter which in these parts, was uncharacteristically very cold. But the vehicle was started, thoroughly warmed and "moved" (shocks, brakes, etc.) at least once a week. Also, the exhaust outlet was kept covered while the car "sat". First thing we did before taking it out... MORE
OK, time for some fun. Anyone here race their MG in solo II? Stories and suggestions would be appreciated. I've done AMA Motorcycle Road Racing, track days in my Beretta, and raced a friends 969 a couple of times when he was laid up injured. I was just checking out the rules for MGs, and they look to be in a fairly fun class for Solo II, and the very minimal prep work makes it quite feasable (and the fact that I own a B and a Midget makes this more fun). Any thoughts on the following: 1. Battery... MORE
Some of you may remember a mail i wrote a few days agoo were i told you my float bowls went almost empty. Well i think i have found the cause of this problem as well. I changed the petrol line from the tank yesterday and when removing the old one that had a joint before the pump (mechanical) with a short piece of rubber tubing the hose clip on one end was loose and the actual rubber tubing was loose as well. I could just pull it off by hand easily. I recon the pump must have sucked... MORE
My reasoning for going with a DCOE is for the following: 1. It was originally fed by a Zenith Stromberg carb for the 1500 midgets. I'm doing a complete restoration on the car, however, between the engine that came with the car (with a thrown rod) and the one I purchased to rebuild, neither came with a carburetor or a distributor. 2. I want to get rid of the zenith stromberg =) The engine is a basic 1500 engine. Stock cam in it, 9:1 compression and .020" overbore from the rebuild. Currently no head porting or anything done to... MORE
Hello again to the group I left for the winter. Now that spring weather is back in Iowa, I am rejoining the collective wisdom of the group. My brake lights do not work. Taillights do come on when the headlight switch is turned on. Looking up the wiring diagram, I assume the first thing that could be giving me trouble is the brake switch. Where is it located? No switch located on the brake pedal as on my other vehicles. Thanks Neil "Neil Hernan" 31909... MORE
BTW... www.LBCarCo.com also carries a "reasonably priced" nifty little round LP electric fuel pump as well. They've advertised and carried this pump for a long time so while I've no personal experience with it, it must be decently reliable and dependable or it would have disappeared from Jeff's stocks a long time ago, methinks. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31903... MORE
Bob... Larger bowls are of no concern. Pump doesn't care unless the engine is highly tuned and than one can use a higher pressure (output) with a pressure reg. I find the low pressure (LP) Facet (4psi+-) mounted in the rear in place of the SU... works fine without a pressure regulator on SU's. With my PO'd "Vizardized" 1340 (90HP at the rear wheels) I used the HP Facet (6-8psi) with a pressure reg. set to 2.5psi for a 45DCOE. This engine went to 7k and was mostly used between 3500-4000rpm on the highway. It was also capable of... MORE
Hell you can get a Holley red electronic pump and regulator for that much (I did). And parts are available at any "speed shop". The red pump runs at 7psi and flows 96 gph. It sound different but works great. Tad 74 RWA Midget 69 MGC GT "Richard Rivenbark" 31883... MORE
Ed in ND states..."...while this is obviously not concours..." Couldn't agree more with you, Ed. I personally have used Facet low pressure solid state pumps for years. While they now go for about $70=$80 a pop, I get them for cost, inclusive of the metal filter fit to the inlet side between tank and pump. I replace these ("hard time" preventive maint.) once every three years whether they need it or not instead of waiting for them to wear out and suddenly "fail" (which all electric pumps do in time, brand notwithstanding). The inlet filters I replace annually. Cap'n.... MORE
Typically the low pressure pump is used with the SU's. It's range is 1.5 to 4 psi. Pump number is PRO #42S. Has blue decal on the pump. Usually no pressure regulator is needed. Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 31885... MORE
I used one for a while instead of a standard SU electric pump on my 1275. It worked fine and I can't remember why I changed back, but it was probably something to do with not being able to dismantle the electronic one if ever anything was to go wrong. Incidentally, the Mechspec 'Buy It Now' price of U$70 + 18 shipping seems a bit steep to me - even Mo$$ list a pump for the equivalent of $80. David "David Jacobs" 31863... MORE
Solid state (electronic) SU Fuel Pump from Moss...US$119.95 in either pos or neg ground. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31868... MORE
I had a similar problem with my Midget last week. It turned out to be an electrical problem: the points kept loosening, so there was not much of a spark. Adjusted the gap, and tightened everything up properly, and she now runs a treat!! We were in Scotland at the time, and had a 400 mile journey home. We got back OK, and all is now well Margaret, South Lincolnshire (UK) "Margaret Brock" 31916... MORE
Odd. On mine the knurled cable fitting just passed through that hole. Close fit but it worked. I cannot measure it as as I don't want to take the grommet out again. I do remember that getting it into place with the cable already through the hole as really difficult because of the awkward location. The hole is on a level with the steering column hole, about1 1/2" to the right ( looking forward) Guy Rob, It should be right next to the hole that the steering column goes through Guy "Guy Weller" 31857... MORE
Hi All Could any one help me with whare the speedomiter cable on a right hand drive car is routed, spent half an hour trying to figure out whare it goes through the bulkhead (fire wall) and can't find a 3/4" hole anywhare that looks correct? Thanks Rob "rob batley" 31854... MORE
