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Bob, The accelerator cable is not connected as I am trying to synchronize the carbs. I have had a frayed cable years ago. I'll check the fast run screws. I hope that's the problem. The thought on the spring was that a stiffer spring assuming 4.5 oz/in would result in a higher load being applied to the piston for a given vacuum so the piston would not rise as far due to the load applied. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26448... MORE
Martyn... While there might be a slight change in power with great changes in altiude, this seems a "sudden" change according to your mails as well as one of great "extent" as well....at least this is the impression I am getting. So, I don't think the altiude difference accounts for the problem you are having, For things to suddenly change to this extent...I'd be looking for something pretty obvious like a frayed accelerator cable which can "hang up" in it's travel (just replaced my choke cable today for this very reason), etc. Wish I was there to see it... MORE
Martyn...you misunderstand. The spring over the air valve in the SU carb determines mainly when the air valve reaches the full open position with respect to "redline" assuming all other things equal. This is it's only purpose. As cam profile duration and lift increase (over "stock") so shall vacuum produced by the engine at lower rpms DECREASE. IOW......at lower rpm (idle) the engine will "suck" LESS, all else being equal. With respect to your problem, vacuum in this case is working FOR you, not against you. Make sure your throttle return springs are properly hooked up and that the... MORE
Bob.... Go with an alcohol/water mix (60/40) and I am quite sure you could run up to 8psi boost on 9.4 with no problem but, you're gonna be far better off running both the foregoing along with an ignition retard system or, limiting advance to something like 24 degrees on a regular mechanical advance distributor considering the best you can get in terms of pump fuel will be 98RON unleaded. MSD makes an excellent boost retard ignition system and I am sure Aldon over there has some ideas in this respect as well which may very well consist of... MORE
To all my friends, many of which have inquired about the fires here in San Diego, it is devistating!!! Box score, approx 350,000 acres burned, about 1,400 homes burned to the ground, 900 out buildings burned down, 14 people dead, still evacuating towns on Wed night. The fire burned within 3 miles of my house. No real danger but lots of smoke and ash and bad air. No postal delivery on Monday, all schools still closed and no containment yet. Perhaps not until Monday. An unbelievable time for all of us in Southern California. Thank you all for your... MORE
Thank you for your reply, Mike Yes, it has wire wheels, but I have checked these and the splines looks perfect. So probably it is the diff or the u-joints. If it should be the diff, do you think it is somthing that needs to be adjusted, or do I have to replace any parts? Jan Erik "jmaalen" 26367... MORE
Which makes/models are suitable for conversion to electric motor power? (i.e. use it as a 'glider' for an electric car) Thanks for all responses. Also, check out this little DIY alarm-pager-intercom on Ebay now: Item no: 2439666572 "xxxrs2003" 26331... MORE
I know this is basic but maybe it will save someone else a lot of frustration. The previous owner of my car had installed a Pertronix distributor conversion on my 1963 1098cc Sprite. No other modifications; no new wires, coil or plugs. Since I drive this car to work every day, I decided to replace all of the basic electrical components; relay, fuse box, spark plug wires etc. I also decided to replace the Pertronix unit with a new one AND their coil. Having accomplished all of that, the car ran hot, stumbled until it got warmed up and... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
Martyn, Are you sure that the points are installed correctly? If the nylon spacers on the points are not installed correctly, you have a direct short. BTDT Biff Jones '59 Bugeye, 'Kermit' '62 Sprite, 'Ole Gray' '71 Midget, 'Freebie' http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 26277... MORE
To my spark plugs that is! I've replaced the points and wired them correctly, new rotor, cap and wires. Still no spark, I'm lost as to the problem. The points have voltage on the outside contact when open and voltage on the inside when closed, referencing the shaft as the inside. I checked the wire to cap connection with an ohm meter everything's good there. The coil gets power when the points are closed, the coil is new also. Does anyone have an idea as to what I've over looked? Thanks. "Martyn Eastwood" 26273... MORE
Martyn, A bit confused by what you mean here. "The points have voltage on the outside contact when open and voltage on the inside when closed" Their should be no reading of voltage between ground and either of the point contacts when they are closed. If you have voltage between chassis ground (body of the distributor) and either of the point contacts when the points are closed you have a ground problem. The stationary point contact should always be at ground level. Check your ground wire from the stationary point contact base plate base and the case of the... MORE
Whoops, I meant egr valve. The connector for the valve on the intake manifold has not been capped though. "kari_kevin" 26266... MORE
"...the job is in the prep...." Correctomundo, Mssr. Holmes... Any imperfections in this respect will "show through" the best of paints in short order, once the paint "flows" and "settles". I picked up a Peterson book on painting and followed the directions using pro equipment in a buddy's "spray booth". This was acrylic enamel with poly hardner. First try...excellent job. But, the prep took the better part of 3 months working evenings and a good part of weekends. It came out beautifully and lasted for many, many years in daily driving...ice, snow, salt...the works. I have also had excellent... MORE
Nigel, Couldn't agree more. Concours isn't worth the effort. Like you, I bought my car to drive. I've loved LBC's since I was a kid. I actually bought and drove a '69 Triumph GT6+ when I was 19 and have been hooked ever since. Had to sell it after 9 months for the college fund but I sure wish I had it today. Unlike you however, I always planned a non-original car. In my opinion, driveability is somewhat compromised by MG technology which is a polite way of dissing Lucas. My best improvement to the car was dumping the... MORE
David No, thats not what I'm saying, but I can see why you might interpret in that way. What I meant was when you consider the amount of time thats already gone into this project (mostly on rebuilding the bodywork and preparation for paint) if I'd used a Heritage Shell (the body rebuilding stage would not apply, and the preparation for paint would be minimal) the stage I'm at now (which is about 3/4 the way to finishing in terms of the total amount of work) would be equal to about 1/4 of the way to finishing (in terms... MORE
Rob Thank you for your kind words of encouragement. I think you are suffering a little from the 'grass is always greener' syndrome though : ) If it's any consolation, I think you did the right thing as well ! I can't tell you how many times I've muttered under my breath the well known phrase 'never again' never again' it's almost like a mantra to me now. Of course it's nice to be able to fully strip the car, rebuild/repaint and reassemble it, that has to be the ideal, but let me tell you it is by far... MORE
Good Morning or afternoon, I have a perplexing problem and have come to the fountain of knowledge for help. I purchased a new ignition swithch for my 63 Sprite. The old one has three spades coming out of the back. the new one has 4. On the old one, 2 white wires are soldered together and are attached to the last spade on the right as you view it from behind the dash. The middle spade also has a single white wire on it and the last one has the brown and blue wire attached. What do I do... MORE
A fellow lister, Steve is kindly sending me a template. I take your point and will try it on a bit of scrap first. Getting that drill to go in dead right is not easy. Did you use a small sharp drill first? A battery drill will allow slow speed to start with, that is what I will use first. Also I have some centre drills from a lathe so I will experiment with them and let you know. A centre punch will distort the sill and damage the paint. A straight edge will show if I managed to... MORE
I just finished putting the tranny and engine together, and will be putting it into the car presently. I know many times that a common electrical problem is the ground strap from the engine to the body. I have not had that problem, but then I still have the original bracket that bolts at the bottom of the tranny bell housing and fixes to the "frame" rail. Would anyone like photos of my setup, for future reference, or to try and manufacture a bracket on their own? I have one on the bench for my Bugeye, that I can... MORE
Terry What's the problem with coming up with your own template for the M I D G E T holes? That's what I'm going to do. Someone very kindly let me have the dimensions of where the letters actually sit on the sill, it's fairly easy then to make up a template to drill them. I say fairly easy, it's far from easy, I think I've tried about 3 or 4 time so far in scrap pieces of steel and I'm still not happy with the way the letters look. It's actually very hard indeed to get it so... MORE
Hmmm, could be several things. With these plastic filters, as I recall, the fuel flows into the centre of the filter element and outwards so you don't see when it's full of clag. T hat said, you can drive on long cruising stretches fine. IT could therefore be the fuel pump. This is (if it is as standard) mounte d under the 'rear seat' and has a crude (but effective electro-mechanical m echanism akin to a doorbell. IT contains a set of electrical points which detoriarate over time which can lead to the pump 'sticking'. Often a bang on... MORE
Hi all, my name is Julian from Uk (Nottingham) and I am a newcomer to the site so p lease treat me gently. I have purchased an absolutely beautiful (I would say that wouldn't I) 1967 MG Midget in Red, wire wheels, chrome bumpers, leather trim with white pip ing...mmmmm Anyway. I have a little problem in that after a long run with no junctions I often have to sit in traffic queues to get into the centre of the City. I f I am in a queue like this for over 10minutes...creaping forward in first. .stopping....into neutral...into first....stopping....the... MORE
Just a mild word of warning. Aluminium (more likely an alloy) can fatigue quickley if subjected to vibrations. (as can all metals, I know) Cast Alum alloy is fine but strip or sheet alum can be problematical, the last thing you want is your nice shiny spotlamp dragging under the car by its wires. Should be ok if made from at least 6mm stuff , but keep an eye on it , especiaally the mico cracks where you bend it. alan "alan.east-jones" 25999... MORE
Max Try Moss, I'm sure I've seen lamp brackets not on a badge bar. Personally I'd go for the period lamps they do, more in keeping with the character of the car. Regarding wiring, I'd put in a relay circuit, the lamps would draw too much current for the main lamp circuit, particularly considering old/condition unknown wiring these cars tend to have. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 25955... MORE
