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Flying over to Ireland tomorrow for my quota of Guinness (a few gallons short for the year - vbg). Hopefully will see a friend's Bugeye/Frogeye over there as well. Will be off the list until Sept. 21st. Don't do anything silly until I get back. Regards, Jim Rogers San Juan Capistrano, CA Jim Rogers 24938... MORE
Help cant find it ! How do I wire the Alternator up? Have photos? "ooohaynow1" 24853... MORE
Don May writes: "It is terrible to look back..." Oh, yeah. My older brother always wanted to be a millionaire and today is a very wealthy man...his association with Armani has made him rich but, he hates going to work and has for many, many years despite the obvious financial payoff. Different strokes for different folks. I knew I was in trouble with him when we were discussing life by the pool of his Alpine, NJ mansion and he told me I didn't realize how lucky I was to be able to look forward to going to work every... MORE
As if it is not enough to be assaulted by acetone fumes, welding flux, bondo dust, petro chemicals of all sorts, a sander that when the Concord stops flying will rank among the loudest devices on earth now the bloody squirrels are dropping acorns from 25 feet up down on me and the cars. Not an occasional one but a constant barrage. He/she is too lazy to carry them down to the ground to bury but seems to find great amusement tossing them down on me and the cars to be buried later. I'm going to have to put... MORE
Make sure the cable is correctly routed and has no tight bends then check the gearbox end of the cable is correctly located, either or both of these could be your problem. Dave "David Dixon" 24772... MORE
I've just recently bought an 1967 Austin Healey Sprite that was in need of some TLC, however I've also since found out it's got a few parts 'missing'! One of those was the flame trap that connects through flexible hoses the block to the inlet manifold (it doesn't have the 'Y' connector). Since fitting the missing part it now won't run properly. It has started to kick out loads of white smoke & a little bit of blue. We've compression tested the engine, fitted a new head gasket & set up the carbs so they are fine. We've now... MORE
Ah, hah.... I see, Jason. Well, as Amy is fond of saying, just because a part is new, doesn't mean it's "good" or will give the expected service life. You didn't say anything about the cooling system temperature so I shall ass-u-me it remains "unchanged". I'd go through the steps of a major tune-up starting with compression and leak down checks. I know it's a PITA when you just got it done a couple of months ago but the problem is bound to make itself known as you go through logical steps. Coils underperforming can be a bear to... MORE
Duh . . . I think I was half awake . . . Is confusion catching ?. . . I was thinking Tach cable and gear box rather than speedometer which was the question was about. Sorry. Don "Don May" 24766... MORE
Jason... Sounds like the problem is on the "other side" (electrical) of the engine, assuming compression and leak down figures do not indicate mechanical problems. When was the last time you replaced wires, dist. cap, plugs, points, condenser and/or coil? Actually, best to do a major tune-up in which case you'll most likely come across and/or solve the problem, in any event? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24756... MORE
On my 61 Bugeye, the speedo worked when I purchased the car 12/02. Since then speedometer seemed to have frozen. Replaced the cable , same thing. Lubricated the cable, Sent the speedometer to Nisonger Instruments, Worked for about 3 miles then same problem. Removed the speedometer side of cable and the shaft is spinning? Very confused. mcmcsey@... 24755... MORE
Assuming the repair was correct and remains good there is a slim chance it might be the gear reduction box. The shaft is spinning when you disconnect it with no load or pressure from bends in the cable. Have you squeezed the end of the rotating shaft to see if with some load pressure the shaft continues to turn? It might be that the gears or the bearings in the rear reduction box on the back of the generator are worn and causing slippage. It the bearing hole is enlarged it would allow the gears to offset enough to... MORE
Hello all, I just took my 77 through emissions testing and it came up short. It passed the Hydro Carbon & Carbon Monoxide tests with ease but was just over the Nitrus Oxides limit. The car is missing it's EGR system. Are there any tweaks to the carburation/timing that might improve it's chances? Thanks! Kevin Milwaukee, WI "kari_kevin" 24719... MORE
She's a 65 and judging from the signal arm that I've got, there was nothing out there. I looked again yesterday and can barely see a brown wire that has been snipped off down inside there. I guess I'll be taking the column apart soon. vleonard@... 24730... MORE
Hello all, I just tried to get my 77 though emissions and came up short. It passed the Carbon Monoxide & Hydrocarbon portion with flying colors but was just over the limits for Nitrus Oxides. My car is missing the EGR system & I know that would help. Short of replacing the missing valve, etc. are there any "tweaks" to the carburation/timing that could help it pass? Thanks! Kevin Milwaukee, WI "kari_kevin" 24733... MORE
Are you looking for just the electrical switch and wiring harness portion of the switch? I'm assuming your 'double-d' hole has rounded out on you or the wiring is mangled? I have a NOS elec switch with harness as spare here. I had one 'mechanically fail on me (plastic part messed up and metal pin wouldn't turn it) so when I found a new one I bought 2! Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 24697... MORE
As a further follow up on this posting, I took a few minutes to study the portion of the wiring harness that plugs into the switch. There has evidently been a dead short in the switch as the wires have melted together and I'm sure they are touching at some point. Again, I think the copper contact inside the plastic plug that goes into the switch assembly has shorted out and the switch problem is there. Neil "Neil Hernan" 24692... MORE
Hello to All I finally got some time to work on the MG switch. Following the ideas/instructions from previous posts, I got the electrical plug out of the ignition switch. The metal portion of the switch assembly that wraps around the steering column now seems to work OK. At least I can remove the key. I then took the electrical plug apart. There are a couple of copper contacts, springs and steel balls. My questions is this, is the spring built into the metal switch assembly or the plastic electrical plug that fits into the switch assembly? I did... MORE
Hey Don, I'm not sure my first reply made it to the list so I'm gonna do this again just in case. It doesn't feel like the turn signal arm is catching on what it's supposed to catch on to make the signal work. There's no resistance when I move the lever up or down. I haven't taken it apart yet to look because I'm just a little nervous taking the steering column apart. As for the horn, when I remove the cover in the middle of the steering wheel there's nothing there. No wires, no contacts no nothing.... MORE
Without giving a preference of suppliers I would like to ask what is going on with the turn signals? Also . . . the horn is a high current device, any resistance in the wiring will often render it inoperable. Before you give up on it be sure and check/clean all the wiring connections between the horn button and the horn. I have had two midgets whose horns did not work and that was all that was needed to get the horns working. One was dirt on the wiper arm at the steering column and the other was a... MORE
Welcome Sue, To add to Bob's suggestions. Often oxidation on electrical connections is a major problem with cars that are old and particularly if they have sat for long periods of time. There are many spade wire connectors on the backs of switches, gauges, lamps and the wiring harness has many bullet in line connectors, in black insulation tubes. At minimum pull off and push spade connectors back on, or bullet inline connectors apart and back together several times to break the surface crud. Spray with some WD40 before and after you do this. If they look very oxidized... MORE
I run with an additional strap from a starter bolt to the bulkhead earth point i.e. straight to the battery. Guaranteed good starting and reduncancy should the original break. "Jeremy Cogman" 24464... MORE
Hello all, I'm looking for information on how the emissions controls are configured on a 77. Specifically how the Air pump & EGR valve are setup. Right now on mine the air pump feeds though a check valve directly to a connector on the tail end of the exhaust manifold. Did that year have a diverter or gulp valve? The EGR valve is missing. Did it have one? How was it hooked up? There is an elbow connector on the air intake manifold that isn't hooked up to anything. I've been looking at pictures of engines on the web,... MORE
In the process of checking out the clutch slave cylinder linkage I reached up to move aside the ground strap a bit to have a better view. The strap is from the lower clutch slave cylinder bolt to the chassis frame, the normal original configuration. It appeared to be a full strap, although covered with oil and dirt as they often are. A gentle push and it moved aside in two pieces, only a few strands were left under the dirt and oil and they parted under the least amount of pressure . . . Nothing can be taken... MORE
"Aldon Distributors" Aldon did a PerTronix equipped 45D mechanical curve for my 8.3-1 motor, based upon a planned (Judson) 6psi boost curve. Less than $300 including shipping. Bill Perry got the dizzy. In checking it on a distributor machine, it did not match the written curve provided. Bill shipped the dizzy up to me in CT so Pete Sachs guys could check it out on their machine(s). Sure enough....wrong curve. Shipped it back to Aldon after trading e-mails. Returned in a heartbeat with the "correct" curve...Aldon paid all shipping costs (by Air..both ways). Morals: 1.Check this part as you... MORE
"Improving cooling" 1. Thorough flush/"reverse flush" of entire system with proprietary "cleaner" 2. *80/20 Distilled Water/Anti-Freeze Mix or 100% Distilled Water with can of proprietary lube/anti-corrosion additive and a couple of drops or diswashing liquid or appropriate amount of "Water Wetter" 3. Modern aluminum "deep impellor" water pump..Colin Dodds reports "County" brand has a slightly deeper impellor than "AE" brand. Both good. 3. ^^Block Cyl. Head/Water Pump Bypass 4. *68C Thermostadt or Blanking Sleeve 5. 4.5" Cooper "S" Water Pump Pulley 6. Recore/upgrade stock rad or go "aluminum" altogether *Summer Only ^^Drill 1/4" hole in thermostadt plate as "new"... MORE
