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I suspect it's a Gold Seal or Silver Seal replacement unit, though I think 'RKM' part numbers were used for these. A couple of questions should identify it; does it have the 1275 tag or if not, removable tappet covers on the manifold side of the block? Does it have the oil filter head unit with the filter hanging off it, forward of the distributor (=Spridget), or is the filter sticking directly out of the block near the distributor? ( Marina) The only vehicles which used 'inline' 1275 engines were Spridgets and Marinas, so it is probably going to... MORE
Hi, Jed! I live in a nice neighborhood, and my `79 Midget is garaged. However, I sometimes park in less than desirable areas and I have had issues with young jerks throwing beer cans, McDonald's waste, etc. into the cockpit of my car if not covered with a tonneau - in broad daylight in mall parking lots, etc.!! Also had a radio stolen once (before the car was garaged). The idiots tore open the top with a knife to crawl into the cockpit and ripped out the entire console. Radio was a Blaupunt with a "code," so it was... MORE
Hello all, I have a running MG Midget convertible, in excellent condition, that I love to death but am really needing to sell. I bought this car on Ebay last year, but have never driven it openly (by which I mean on public roads), had it insured, or had the title put in my name (I suffer from lack of funds). My brother has driven it, and says it handles quite well... the only defects we know of are: a minor hole in the exhaust pipe, a broken parking brake, and a leak in the braking system near the... MORE
this might be a dumb question, but is there supposed to be a vacuum line between the distributor and the carb, or not? It's got the Opus distrib, and the vacuum port on both the carb and the distrib are blanked off. Is this okay, or did the DPO screw it up? I know I can run with the EGR not hooked up (NH- no emissions inspections) but could this be the source of the car running really lean? Thanks in advance, George "chuibuddy" 37823... MORE
what size engine. Makes looking for one a lot easier. Exhaust manifold for 73-74 1275 engine, only fitted for short time and bolt exhaust fixing rather than clamp. Can't seem to find one anywhere......... "Bruce" 37821... MORE
G'day Bruce If you want to go bigger than +.060" but don't want to go to 73.5mm, I have new 73mm pistons (with rings and pins). You can see them here: www.SpriteParts.com.au/shop.htm And give us a clue - what's a 12G1591 manifold - inlet or exhaust, what size engine. Makes looking for one a lot easier. avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 37807... MORE
You building a "Town/Country" or "Highway" driver, Bruce? ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL..... "60"overbore will pull up low end torque (increases compression ratio) whilst increasing "revability" (more "square" bore/stroke numbers) As can be seen, the foregoing improvement lends itself automatically to a "hairier" cam quite nicely (without compromising the low end). The question is "how hairy" for your specific application? Thus, the initi al question at the top of the page, Bruce. Vizard's book contains an excellent description of many "grinds". For town/country, the numbers associated with an MD266 give a nice general improvement all-around with slight emphasis on mid-rang... MORE
A mild steel 3 branch which is now in bits as I used a grinder to chop it off rather than jack up the car and remove the exhaust first! both are being replaced anyway :-) "Bruce" 37794... MORE
there. Two years later and I should have the car back on the road by mid July. I've replaced the stock manifold/exhaust with headers and a bit larger diameter exhaust pipe. If you're interested let me know. PS: The stock manifold is available also. Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB "Jim Crowder" 37790... MORE
Bruce, Just completed an "as original as possible" rebuild onto a Heritage shell - 700 miles later and nothing has fallen off yet. My original but tired 1275 was rebuilt by me - with the aim of extracting a few more HP and some extra torque 2500 - 6000 rpm. My spec is a.. 020" rebore (1293 cc) b.. 9.75 :1 CR pistons c.. MG Metro large valve cylinder head with mild port and polish d.. MG Metro single HIF44 carb "Vizarded" (butterfly knife-edged, spindle trimmed and waisted, screws trimmed and Loctited, bridge lowered) e.. Titan Motorsport inlet manifold,... MORE
They all (A series) point slightly forwards. I suspect the line drawing for the clamp type in parts catalogues originally came from an existing drawing for another car, possibly Morris Minor or A30? If you can get hold of the flanged type, it makes a much better joint and is the correct type for your '74. It would have been tapped for studs not drilled for bolts if it is from a UK car, but it's highly likely the threads will be stripped, so would either need to be welded and redrilled/tapped or larger size studs fitted anyway. (I... MORE
I need to replace the exhaust manifold on my 74 Midget and although I see several come up on ebay they are different from the two types listed in the manuals for the midget. They all seem to face forward with a clamp type fixing while all the catalogues and pics I have seen show either a rear facing clamp or forward facing bolt fixing. Is there another type or are they from a different car? "Bruce" 37776... MORE
Hi all, just bought a complete but knackered 1275 74 model and am starting to look at what I am going to do with it mechanically (apart from the necessary reshell) I bought book on A series tuning as I have only rebuilt MGB engines before and have decided that althogh I want to keep the car as original as possible the air filters and exhaust manifold were non standard so these will be replaced with K&N's plus a complete stainless exhaust and manifold. These parts seem to be the only non original parts on the whole car. Is... MORE
Mostly restored, mint interior, low miles, Brooklands Green, new tires, brakes, SS braided brake lines, clean, 1500 engine, been de- smoggedm has Weber 2 bl. side draft(DCOE) headers, clean tight tranny, new top/boot cover, NO RUST, NEVER WRECKED, wood steering wheel & MG shift knob, Clairon AM-FM cassete deck, drives great. $3900. In Arizona U.S.A.see photos section hdsteveg@yahoo. "hdsteveg" 37585... MORE
Oh, yeah...forgot.... "Header wrap" will "contain" heat but at the expense of header service life. Normally, use of this stuff invalidates any warranty as to header service or header service life. Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37500... MORE
There was some discussion about insulating exhaust manifolds (headers, extractors, etc) and about keeping heat from the carbs. I wondered about that, did a little reading, and a little PV=nRT stuff, and it looks like a cool air supply to the carbs might add a few HP. Maybe. Anyway, not being one to spend money extravagantly (the wife doesn't agree BTW), I put together a $10 cool air intake. It's easier to see than explain, so take a peek at the cool air photos. Now, the question is - if it adds, say 3 or 4 HP, how on... MORE
Started my 1959 Frogeye up this morning (1275, LCB big bore (possibly what a bore) exhaust).. I have now lost intrest in my 1975 1500... Stewart "zaphod19692000" 37466... MORE
G'day all Let's start with a definition. Those non-standard tubular pipes that bolt onto your cylinder head to let the exhaust gas out, and eventually join into one "collector" for the exhaust pipe, are called "extractors" or in some languages "headers". "Exhaust" includes these plus everything down the line, past the muffler to the chrome tip on the tail pipe. I guess we are talking here about insulating the extractors, not the entire exhaust system. We run in all our engines on a calibrated engine dyno. It lives in a 10ft x 15ft brick room with a huge fan... MORE
Joe and others.. I understand that keeping the air intake cooler is definatly a good thing. But as I was saying I have heard that keeping the exhaust manifold hot, insulated is a good thing, independant of the fact it helps keep the engine area cooler. Mainly because of gas flow is better at hot temperatures? Or may be its because changing the density of the gas, as it cools down restricts the flow? "gav_newman" 37447... MORE
I've got it on my A series' LCB, but that was mainly to keep exhaust heat away from the carb float bowls before I had a proper heatshield in place. Can't say I noticed anything other than not getting fuel vaporisation. David "David Jacobs" 37441... MORE
Keeping intake air cooler is a good thing in the summer. Keeping the ex manifold hotter is a bad thing (unless, maybe, if you're running a turbo). "joe blxfstz" 37444... MORE
I have heard insulating the exhaust manifold can improve performance significantly. Both from keeping the exhaust hotter for longer and keeping the incoming air cooler. Have many other people done it? I have a unmodified (apart from an oil cooler) 1500cc Midget, would it improve my Horse power and or MPG? I ask cause I have been reading the Vizzard book and it does not seem to mention any benefitt from keeping the exhaust hotter. "gav_newman" 37423... MORE
New to the Yahoo group, hello and thanks in advance... Has anyone out there had experience with 7 or 8 port cylinder heads? Vizard's guide has a whole 3 paragraphs on the subject, Stapleton has one! I came across an old issue of Retro Cars (May '04) that reviewed A series engine tuning and and turned me onto this option. I've gone to Mini-Spares UK website and priced the unit ($$$- but cheaper than the K-series engine swap, which would be way too hard to do living Stateside). I've viewed Bill Richards Racing website and read about how he... MORE
G'day Jeremy Your car probably had a PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventillation) valve on the inlet manifold, connected via a rubber hose to the engine breather. When you had your foot off the throttle, the partial vacuum in the inlet manifold helped to reduce the pressure in the sump, thus (in theory if seldom in practice) minimising oil leaks out of the rear main bearing. This PCV valve was later deleted, and the hose from the engine breather went to a plastic Y-piece and then via two short rubber tubes to these pipes on the carbies. You have two options.... MORE
Jeremy... these "tubes" feed graduated (specifically sized) orifices through which crankase gasses are fed into the combustion process in a measured amount, off the "flame arrestor/oil vapor separator (through appropriate hoses and plastic "T" fit ting) mounted on the timing chain cover. These make up the "exit" or "exhaust" side of the PCV system on engines so equipped, the "inlet" side of the equation being a filtered plastic oil filler cap on the "early" cars or a feed tube into the valve cover (again, through a "graduated orifice) from the charcoal cannister on later emissions vehicles equipped with closed... MORE
