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-Many thanks rob and cp bob,have spent most of the day looking at this wheel prob,my sprite has square arches that dont help me in this wheel problem,look like l am going to have fit 5" rims along with 155x70 tyres,165x70 wil fit but theres still a chance of rubbing when used hard or loaded up etc,so not wanting to mess around with the new body work now that its painted, l will stick to 155x70 x13,on nice wheels.The next restro car l get, l will realy mod and then have some rubber, again many many thanks for your... MORE
Hi guys And please don't think I'm now restoring a Mini because I'm not ok ! It's about time I updated you folks on how the Midget restoration's coming on. The bodyshell is now about 90% complete in gloss coat, there's a couple of area's I need to deal with and a couple of panels to finish with 90/10 paint/thinners mix, to bring up the gloss. The bootlid has had 5 or 6 coats of 50/50 and now needs some 70/30, and 90/10 coats. Likewise the passenger door. The drivers door, is in primer now awaiting its first gloss... MORE
Hi, Roger.. We do have a lister who has done the Vizard carb (and I believe intake manifold) mods to the stock 1.25SU's. I hope we hear from him. Supposedly with these street mods, the 1.25 set-up will match the flow rate of a stock pair of 1.5's. The foregoing notwithstanding, Vizard improvements are flow bench tested/verified. Today, David is semi- retired working on "improving" American V-8's!! (and did objective testing as well on Oil Extreme...like Grassroots, good results!:). Following Vizard's engine building advice (though substituting a 45DCOE with 38mm throats) I spec'd. a "fast road" 1340 for my... MORE
Hi folks! I have just purchased a 1977 MG Midget 1500 in what I can only describe as 'tired' condition. Although it has an MOT it does have a few faults, and as I am not in the least bit mechanically minded I need some advice as to what repair is required. There is a water leak coming from the engine in quite a steady stream from somewhere at the top of the engine below the head: it is a bit difficult to see exactly where as it is obscured by the manifold and carbs.The water temperature gauge on... MORE
My take on it is this... The prop shaft as a unit, complete with the assembled UJ, does need to be in balance. I believe that they are balanced at the factory, but I don't know to what level of accuracy. I don't think that they are balanced as a unit assembled to the back axle, which is why I contend that the flange joint betwen UJ and axle pinion can be undone and re-assembled without need to mark it. If the prop shaft is balance as a seperate item then it will remain so in either of the... MORE
Son and the car are in Cincinnati. Body is good, little rust, no collision damage. We took the 1275 and the trany out to inspect, and all seems o.k. Things I think it would need are : Engine gasket set, clutch and slave, Motor mounts, battery and a soft top. If I where nearer I would have had it on the road. We have had it for about a year with no procross except the inspection. He was going to do the body work first and paint, I was more intrested in getting it running, for fun, then paint... MORE
Having just broke two propshafts on a test rig and having to do full risk assesment on the items I can say that..... If you completely dissasmble the propshaft then make sure you mark it up and reassemble everything in the same orientation. Most important is that two pins on the Hookes Joints at each end of the shaft are exactly in the same plane. Because of the spline teeth in the sliding part there is only one possible to way to assemble this correctly. (possibly 180 degrees out, but only if the spline has an even Nr of... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint fully harden (4-5 weeks) then use a gentle rubbing compound on it and a rotary buffer. Regarding etch primer,... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Cap'n, The prop shaft is certainly balanced - they often have weights on them as evidence. But they are balanced complete with the U-joint assembly. Which is precisely why it should not matter which of the two alternative positions that they can be bolted to the diff pinion flange is chosen. The prop shaft itself is balanced - either way. Guy "Guy Weller" 28753... MORE
Yes, Jim.... You are correct. We did in fact replace the front yoke with a Rivergate unit and no, we did not rebalance the driveshaft and no, it did not require it as we experienced no unusual vibration after 5 speed installation with the new aforementioned yoke. Then, we have Guy Weller's post on this as well which we did not have the benefit of before. All the above having been said, when there is a choice I will stay with the original line up of parts as the car came from the factory unless there is a reason... MORE
Hi, Duncan... I get your meaning but the flanges to the assemblies wherein the new u-joints reside are not new...nor are they particularly light-weight, but I understand where you are coming from. See my recent response to Jim C's current post to me on the subject. I myself do not know whether these assemblies are balanced when they leave the factory or to what extent. I keep hoping someone out there will know! :) I myself, would keep the flanges on both ends "lined up" in terms of how I found them, unless I could conceive of a reason... MORE
Driveshaft, u-joint, diff, hookup, Jim. I do not know whether they balance this assembly or not. OTOH, I personally cannot concieve of taking it apart without marking same & putting it back together again exactly how I found it, assuming this assembly had worked well (together) previously, in the positon in which all parts were originally joined. No reason to do otherwise as far as I and see, or am I missing something here? :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28737... MORE
G'day Steve No, moving the slave cylinder will make no difference, just like shortening the pushrod will make no difference. (See disclaimer below.) You are dealing with hydraulics here. A push of X" at the pedal will result in movement of Y" at the slave cylinder. Moving the slave cylinder will result in the internal piston being at rest in a different position down the bore of the cylinder, but the distance the piston travels when you hit the pedal will not change. Disclaimer: UNLESS you move the cylinder (or shorten the pushrod) to the point where the piston... MORE
G'day guys All this discussion on crunching clutches just woke up my tired brain to something I had forgotten. The diaphram clutch as fitted to 1275cc and 1500cc cars is very sensitive to the amount of travel. They actually need LESS travel to release than the earlier spring clutch. That's one of the reasons the slave cylinder is 1" and not 7/8". Larger bore = less travel. If you have TOO MUCH travel at the clutch end, the diaphram plate will go over-centre, and crush the driven plate back onto the flywheel. I have seen this happen a few... MORE
Hmmmmm... Let's see. Did you assemble this thing yourself? Was the clutch disc new? The release bearing? Did you inspect the condition of the pressure plate and flywheel? Might be some sort of clue there. Even if there were a hydraulic fault which is causing incomplete release, there shouldn't be a horrible grinding sound. A partially released clutch shouldn't make any noise. I'm still betting on the foreign object. Could be a piece of clutch lining, a lining rivet, a loose bolt, almost anything. You could jack the car up, remove the rubber plug and see whether you can... MORE
Colin, I was about to throw in my two cents worth on this last night, as I am close to mating up the transmission and bellhousing on my '76. I dug out all the necessary parts, and the slave cylinder bracket appears to have some in/out adjustment capability. Can the same be accomplished by moving the slave cylinder out slightly? Steve Quandt "Steve Quandt" 28674... MORE
Surely sounds like something is causing incomplete clutch release. Since it sounds like everything hydraulic is okay, and you're actually pushing the release bearing far enough, them some possibilities could be: a broken or damaged release brg. These usually last well, but it is possible to break the carbon piece. Possibly the pressure plate has some broken or bent fingers, or is not bolted up straight or tight. The pilot bush could be binding or damaged, the trans input shaft could be bent or burred up. The flywheel could be warped. There could also be a foreign object, say... MORE
One possibility is that the clutch fork is bent. This would prevent the clutch from fully dis-engaging Guy "Guy Weller" 28642... MORE
Good thoughts. Clutch fork is stock, unmodified. Pushrod is new. I think I am getting maximum clutch travel. When the clutch is not depressed, there is NO PLAY at the fork. As soon as pressure is applied to the pedal, the fork begins to move. That is why I think it is set up right. It is not a matter of it taking a stiff "pop" to get it into first. It grinds, and badly. Same for reverse, but less so. Also, WAY too much force is needed to drop it into second. Sure does act like SOMETHING is... MORE
Hi Trevor- Yes, alignment tool was used. Have played A LOT with bleeding, including pressure bleeding. Absolutely no air. Pushrod moves almost one-half inch. I'm told this is all it should move. I've owned four of these cars. I can tell you for sure something is wrong. While I am sure some driving will help, I fear the tranny will be junk inside of a week. Doing some reading and had a thought. Early slave cylinders were 7/8 bore. Late slave was one inch. What if I switch to an early slave? Will it not give me greater pushrod... MORE
the 1" slave, (with the 3/4" master it makes for a easy clutch), and I do have the Datsun slave cylinder with the L hydrolic line direction, but I think it is 7/8". I am going to a heavy duty oil/hydrolic line supplier in Portland tomorrow to try to get a "Street 90" for my 1" slave cylinder. If they can't do one in a short enough L, is there a Datsun or ??? that is short enough? What do the racers with a 5 speed (the 5 speed switches sides of the transmission of the slave cylinder) and... MORE
Paul, Yes it will crunch going into 1st and reverse Yes it will be harder getting into gears when stationary The "bite point" on the clutch should be further from the floor so it may still need adjustment, But.... nothing beats driving it for a few hundred miles. It will shake any remaining air bubbles out of the hydraulic fluid. It will bed down any contact surfaces, synchro hubs, clutch and release bearing and it will ease the meshing of gears Drive it! Gets some miles under those tyres!! OK, wait till the snow has gone and then drive... MORE
Filled with Castrol 20w/50. If you ask me for my gut reaction to the problem, I'd say no, it is not fully disengaging. But I don't know how that is possible. I think I am getting maximum travel from my clutch, and the release lever is tight when the clutch is not depressed. Also, slave travel is within spec (by what I have been told). But it sure acts to me like it is not totally disengaging..... Paul "dfwip" 28595... MORE
