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maybe a PO put in some snake oil to 'quieten it down' at some stage? If the volatile stuff evaporates over time your red clay might be what's left. There *is* actually a clay-like mineral called bentonite which is used in some types of grease; dunno what goes into gearbox-quietener-down gunk though. David "David Jacobs" 25719... MORE
Since "real" answers have already been supplied Brad, it's as plain as the nose on a snake!! The "clutch" ain't "in"!!!!!!!!!!!1 Geesh!!! LMAO tho! Anon (Allen in PA) "justbrits" 25673... MORE
Hi Brad, The selector fork fits around a gear cluster and should move that forward. Lever on the cluster not the bronze fork. What happens is that the gear moves axially along splines/ teeth. There are 3 spring loaded plungers fitted radially betwen the two sliding parts. The outer gear cluster moves too far along the inner and these plungers "pop" out, and wont readily go back in to allow the outer cluster to slide back out of gear. They can be shocked back in if you pry on the gear cluster rather than the selector; Or (better) you... MORE
I have the unit out, cleaned and on the ground. I have the side cover off, and have tried to pry the shift arm forward to get it out of gear. It will NOT move. So before I break something, what am I missing, why will it not move?? Brad Brad Fornal 25669... MORE
Hey Lists!! Drove my Bugeye around the neighborhood yesterday! First time since I bought the disassembled body & boxes of parts 3 1/2 years ago; first time Bugeye has been on road since 1973 (multiple POs). 1380 with headers & Maniflow exhaust - sounds gooood!. It was GREAT! Oh, sure - leaks oil from rear seal area, brakes need to be bled more, speedo didn't work .... But It Ran! In case you didn't notice - I'm just a little enthused, excited, stoked, ... Well, back to fixing problems. Really looking forward (not) to pulling engine/trans to fix oil... MORE
mine used to stick in first (the lever used to go 'too far' and it wouldn't come back without a lot of force) and I tracked it down to a worn plunger in the first/second gear assembly. (see factory manual fig F5 item 1) I think the plunger is meant to hold the gear in position on the hub, while that particular gear is selected, but the end on mine was worn down so it no longer had a smooth radius which allowed everything to move too far and then made it difficult to disengage first. You'll need to... MORE
Chris... I have no personal experience with the 1500 motor. Only the prior Series A 1098 and 1275, and damn little with the 1098! However, it is generally accepted by most that the Series A 1275 is a more bulletproof (tougher) engine than it's later Spitfire 1500 factory replacement, as well as being far more "tuneable". However, from everything I've heard from others (on this list) that do own and drive stock 1500 motors, they perform just fine in normal street driving. Only complaint I've heard mechanically (and I've heard this argued) is that as the crank wears and... MORE
Bree... If the Master Cylinder was completely empty (rather than 1/4 full, fr'instance) then air most likely air had been pumped into the system (rather than brake fluid) as the brakes lost effectiveness, prior to your stopping off to check the fluid and topping off. When pads have really worn down, they do indeed make noise just as you say, more noticeable in the wet conditions before they truly get bad enough to be noticed in the dry. But what also happens is that as the pads wear, more "room" becomes available for hydraulic fluid within the system, so... MORE
Hi, Bree... More specific information would be required in each case for accurate answers, Bree. With respect to the brakes... are you making an assumption, here? Air just does not get into the brake system "automatically" or "overnight"...unless you've suddenly developed a hydraulic leak wherein air displaces fluid which has leaked out or you have suddenly developed a master cylinder or other mechanical problem(s) within the system. Otherwise, besides low brake fluid (when was the last time this was topped off?), worn brake pads are most likely the first place I'd look with a suddenly "soft" pedal (when was... MORE
I made my statement...and I usually never reply a second time... but regardless of what 'tach' manuals say... I'll stick to 'real life' experience and training anytime. And as someone else just mentioned... the 'grade 8' most mention these days did not exist 'way back when' Oh..and to whom ever mentioned grade 8 and something about crank main and rod bolts. I will blatantly say you're WAY off. Head bolts/studs, crank and rod bolts are not 8. they are usually SDF and CHQ grade as even grade 8 is below aircraft quality and by spec is allowed to contain... MORE
Don, Beware. I had a Midget with a similar modified push rod which I didn't know about. I installed a new 3 piece clutch kit and everything was fine for about 3 months until the thrust bearing went bang. New bearing .. went bang again. What has actually happened was that the thrust bearing operating fork has bent. This is not easy to see unless you have two of them side by side. This meant that the thrust bearing was no longer hitting the exact centre of the clutch leading to premature wear. Inspect all part carefully ! Regards... MORE
Mike, Thanks for the advice. I have a new replacement pushrod which I will use when I install a clutch kit which will be soon. I am not going to drive the car until I replace the clutch. Don "Don May" 25485... MORE
Bradsky... Milling the head slightly will have no ill effect upon anything, considering how little you are removing, assuming it had stock 21cc chambers to begin with. As a matter of fact, milling the head rather than going to flattops is the preferred way of raising the compression ratio moderately according to Dave Vizard, this having a more salutory effect on combustion/flow characteristics than a piston configuration change. For racing, the factory goes to 16.4cc chambers before they start raising compression by changing piston configuration so I guess this is the safe limit before head strength is compromised. What... MORE
Right on, John... This was Biff Jones idea as well....from the pictures on your site, it's obvious these motorcycle mirrors fit right in with the Sprite's looks and configuation. They're there, but they don't "stick out"....they go with the lines of the car....you don't "see" them. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25411... MORE
Drag, Don May....non-turning T/O bearing ...."bearing" upon pressure plate. You will also notice with the stock carbon throw-out bearing that the starter will turn the engine over faster if the clutch is not depressed during the start, except in real cold weather when the drag of extremely thick transmission oil causes more drag than the throwout bearing/pressure plate drag situation. Then...start with the clutch pedal depressed of course Much less drag with "roller" types now available in place of original carbon types. The "rollers" allow the T/O bearing face to turn (less drag) as it engages the pressure plate....... MORE
Don, You were likely over extending the clutch pressure plate. I don;t recal the pivot point balance, but the 1/8 inch at the slave doesn't mean equal travel at the TO bearing. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25389... MORE
Think I have solved this and the problem I had shifting into first and reverse . . . before pulling the engine and trans to check I thought I would at least try one of the longer push rods, you know those POs have welded on an extra length to put off installing a new throw out bearing. The one I had from my parts car had only about an eight of an inch longer weld on the end than the stock one. Once I installed it all is working now, smooth shifting is back and shifting into first... MORE
Well it's about time. My 71 MG is back and refurbed. While it was apart for a new clutch disc, why not put a Datsun 5 speed in it? 266 cam, lite lifters, right springs, new shells on the still-standard crank, Cooper S 163 head with rimflows and ported, 45DCOE, and LCB, with a Kenlowe to cut cooling losses. Cooper S dizzy. I want a merit badge for making the Rivergate kit work. It is not easy for one who must follow directions literally. Much more difficult than it needs to be, for me, anyway. I know many listers... MORE
"...it seems to be loose" Not uncommon, Kelly... Don't weld it, clamp it whatever you do, if such repair is appropriate. There is that bracket which goes laterally between the transmission and the pipe just forward of your seat. Not there? Have Meinecke or any decent muffler shop install "their version". Or, make one up...either way the system will need some "support".....there. Hope you are enjoying the car (at last!:). Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25280... MORE
Hi Neil I had the same problem with mine but got them working in the end although I am not sure whether the same circumstances may apply. I say this as it was my brake light and indicators that were not working, everything else worked fine. It mentioned in the Haynes Manual that these two are related and when I fixed the one both sprung back to life. What it was down to was a loose and corroded connection between the brake pedal switch at the master cylinder and the wiring loom. I choped these off and repalced the... MORE
Don, The 3.73 diff from a late rubber bumper Midget will drop a couple hundred revs at 70 mph, and larger tires a little too. Lots easier and cheaper than a different tranny. I don't remember what year your car is, but if it's a 1275, 4000 rpm all day long won't hurt it. Now that you're older (like me), you just worry more about that stuff. Just FYI, I have read that the factory test, when they were building new Spridget engines, was 100 hours on the dyno at max HP. That's about 10,000 miles pedal-to-the-metal. "Jeffrey Holmes"... MORE
Don, It's not the transmission, it's the car. Whenever I have driven hiway 80 in my 72 with the 5 speed, I still have people in big cras crowding me. But yeah, I guess it is better at 75MPH. In slow traffic I one had some asshole pass me in my lane since I didn't take up the whole lane! Gerard "gerardchateau" 25213... MORE
Wondering what the source of lubrication is for the end of the First motion shaft and bearing in the center of the flywheel? Don "Don May" 25224... MORE
May I disagree. For years I ran my mk2 Sprite with 1275 and 4.2 diff. It was a bit buzzy at 80mph on the motorways but easily bearable. Much of this was hood up to and it's much better with hood down which is I'm sure most of the year where you are. You then have the options of either a 3.9, 3.7 or even 3.5 (Moss now sell them again) to make things even better. 3.5s aren't cheap but they are cheaper than a datsun box and fitting kit. "Jeremy Cogman" 25208... MORE
Well said, Don May... You hit the nail on the head..exactly spot on. This is the position I found myself in, more or less. Prior to knowing about the Datsun 5 speed, I attacked "the problem" by moving the whole rpm range upscale to 7-7.5k rpm by "Vizarding" a 1275 and making 4-4.5k rpm a comfortable cruising rpm. Supertuning the motor to take higher rpm is not inexpensive... for it's operating range is just short of a track motor. Weber 45DCOE, bigger valves, prepared head, VP3 cam and 1.5 rollers, big bore LCB and large diameter free-flow exhaust system... MORE
