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Paul, we all got there in the end, It's usually something simple when you can't figure out the problem. I wish I could have been a bit more precise when relating to the similar (mini) engine build problem I had many years ago. All I could remember was a long bolt fouling on something but couldn't remember where. It wasn't the oil filter bracket though. Oh well. Alls well that ends well. Looking on the bright side, you got your clutch working, you didn't have to drop the sump / remove the head or pull the engine out. SPILLUNG... MORE
Paul, So you are the one that installed the flywheel and the clutch? Did you use the correct bolts? The use of the improper bolts on the flywheel could cause your problem. If they stick out the rear of the crankshaft they could foul up on the backng plate or possibly on the three bolts that hold on the rear main cap oil slinger. Also by using to long of bolt through your pressure plate into (through) the flywheel the same thing could occur. I'm not sure but I think it could hit the oil pump cover. Sure hope... MORE
Hi all- First, let me take a moment and thank you all for the gracious way so many of you have spent your time trying to help. I recently sold a '96 Porsche 993, and let me tell you, if you do your own wrenching, you are on your own. This group is a real pleasure..... Worked on the problem this evening. Not sure what I have learned. I first pulled the starter. No change in problem. Next I decided to spend some quality time on my knees watching the valve and piston movement. Very interesting. I watched each... MORE
Hi Alan- Been thinking along these lines as well. I fitted up the flywheel, clutch and tranny. Been so long ago I don't remember much. To your knowledge, is bolt size an issue with anything I have installed? Thanks much. Paul "dfwip" 27726... MORE
Don- Your point is well taken. Just to eliminate the possibility, I will go ahead and get the clutch working. Everything is rebiult or new, with stainless sleeving. Just a matter of adding fluid and bleeding. I will do so. Starter is installed. If it is a problem, how could I get 345 degrees out of the crank? But you are correct. It is installed. Think it should go on the removal list? Thanks for your help. Paul "dfwip" 27723... MORE
Hey Everybody I need some help. The guy I bought my Midget from has two AH Sprites and he doesn't know what year they are so Im trying to find out for him. Iv already taken the identification numbers and tried decoding them using the guide on this web site. http://www.mgcars.org.uk/midgetspriteclub/sprite/spriteident.htm I know there Mark IVs but I cant narrow down the year they were made. My Midget has a plate a the door jam that shows the m/y it was made but these darn Sprites have nothing. Is there anywhere in the VIN, engine, or body #s that... MORE
Don- As best as I could, I tried to eliminate the tranny in my testing. I put the car in neutral and could roll it all over the garage. I then left it in neutral and turned the engine by hand via the fan pulley. The crank turned the same amount as when in gear. Am I correct that this rules out internal tranny issues? Is there anything I could have done when bolting the tranny to the engine? For what it is worth, as I roll the car it sure FEELS like the problem is in the engine.... MORE
Nigel I will strip and examine the probably get a local rebore shop to do the cra nk and block if required. Rebuilding and head reprofiling I'll probably do myself. I will probably get hardened inserts put in also. Some machining I can probably get done if required by my sub contractor machine shop. I got a bit interested in the bore Vs stroke for 1340cc . I might look into that also. I got machined and rebuilt modified mini and MGBGT engines in the past (bef ore the kids started growing up) but have really only been doing... MORE
Paul, I have been reading this thread with interest. A lot of interesting ideas. Let me think a moment and apply my simple Polish logic. Before you go into motor....... you have marked crank pulley and it always stops in the same place. If you back it up, it stops a few degrees from the same place always? right? Then take it until it stops and check into plug holes and find if any pistons are at or very near TDC. If they are, there could be something in the cylinder that is hitting the piston. If non of... MORE
If the guy who did the work was this good my hunch is still that you should be able to disengage the clutch before you proceed trouble shooting for possible causes in the engine. Do you know for sure the flywheel gears or clutch pressure plate is not catching up on something? Is the starter installed? Don "Don May" 27722... MORE
To add to my last post . . . Lets assume the guy tested the engine and it was ok when you got it back . . . possible, but hard to understand that he did not test it out before returning it to you, since then you attached the clutch/transmission. The car will roll around in neutral, but when you put it into gear the engine will not turn over 360 degrees . . . sounds like you can not rule out a mistake/ fault in the clutch or trans when in gear. Until you assure the clutch... MORE
"No hydro fluid for clutch" . . . so the clutch is not disengaged and the transmission is not disconnected from the engine during your attempts to turn over the engine. You may still be in a possible situation where the fault could be the transmission locking up while in gear but not in neutral. Don "Don May" 27707... MORE
I need help. Here's what happened. Began restoration about 10 years ago. Thought it would go faster than it did, so early on I had the engine done. It was built by Dave Tabor of Comptune, the guys who built all the SCCA champ 1275 motors. Anyway, I told Dave I wanted a 1967 street spec high compression engine. I know he used a factory crank and cam. I believe he used aftermarket pistons that he preferred with a compression of about 8.9 to 1. He used a factory non-emission head, redone to run unleaded. Job was completed many... MORE
anything's possible, but the hassle of using a FWD engine is probably too much :- you can't use the crank, as the Metro has a tail that the flywheel/clutch mounts on, where the Spridget has a flange; the rear main bearing/oil 'seal' area is quite a bit different too (it can be modified to suit, given suitable engineering facilities) the front and rear engine plates are different; I *think* the oil pickup is different because of the Transmission-In-Sump, but I wouldn't swear to this; So basically, there's loads of detail differences that make it a tricky swap and you'd... MORE
Gents, If I may contribute. Have had my engine (1500) in and out several times both with and without gearbox attached. Used the same set up each time. My garage has a steel "I" beam across the top to support the story above. I drilled a hole and mounted a heavy "eye" bolt to the beam. Attached a "come-along" and chain to the engine lift points and ripped it right out. The chain is nice as one can achieve any angle of attack by where the come along is attached to the engine chain. I don't believe a steel... MORE
Robert As David pointed out, Heritage Shells are treated differently. I think they treat them as a 'repair panel' rather than 'another car', because they have never been registered as a 'car', and as you're transferring more than 70% of the donor car into the Heritage Shell, it still takes on the registration of the donor car. There are guidelines on what constitutes that 70% and I think it includes engine, gearbox, diff etc. amukdigiphoto@... 27648... MORE
Tim I have no direct experience of this, but in my mind, and from what I 'understand' you will definitely devalue your car by selling it's original registration number, no doubt about it. By how much, who knows, but it loses part of its history, and that makes it less desirable. It's a bit like cars that don't have their original engines and have had replacements put in. It doesn't detract some people, but it does make it difficult to get a top notch price if you ever come to sell it, because its not 'original' throughout. Whilst I... MORE
I read this this somewhere before, the bit I don't agree with is ..... Recently I heard of another reason that makes a lot of sense, early powered boats used automotive engines and often were simply the engine in the middle of a boat with an extension on the rear of the crankshaft to drive a propeller at the back of the boat. But I say The early engined boats were steam driven , as everybody knows Steam engines run just as fast in either direction . (simple reversing lever on the valve gear) Not withstanding that, the first... MORE
Duncan wrote I did consider hooking up a block from the roof beams in the garage but the better half was terrified I would damage the new roof....Put her foot down about that one :-) Thats how I did it. Removed the bonnet, jacked the car up onto rar ramps at the front . A couple of short ropes around the engine (removed the alternator manifold / carbs and starter first)Used a block and tackle with the load over spead between 3 beams . Took the weight of the engine with the block and tackle then jacked the car... MORE
From: Robert D. Gardner [mailto: rdgard@... ] Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 11:19 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Re: Engine removal Duncan, You can use the foor beams in your garage, I have done it many times. Just cut a 4x4 beam (two 4x4s) one each that just fits on each side of the car and wedges under the roof beam. Then, the 4x4s take all the load and the garage does not suffer. I have pulled much heavier lumps than a bugeye that way. If you want to test it, block it up and have two people... MORE
Duncan, You can use the foor beams in your garage, I have done it many times. Just cut a 4x4 beam (two 4x4s) one each that just fits on each side of the car and wedges under the roof beam. Then, the 4x4s take all the load and the garage does not suffer. I have pulled much heavier lumps than a bugeye that way. If you want to test it, block it up and have two people hang from the beam and see if it groans or moves or creeks or actually breaks! (two people weigh about as much... MORE
Duncan The biggest problem to removing the engine detached from the gearbox (I've decided to stick to British names for car components, If no-one understands me - tough!) is removing the gearbox bolts attaching it to the engine. It's hard enough to remove these with the engine and gearbox out of the car, let alone trying to do it within the confines of an engine bay! It's awkward taking it out with gearbox attached, specially if your front valance and rad are still in position (mine were removed) as it has to come out at a very steep angle... MORE
Duncan Well if I can take mine out complete with transmission with a trolley jack, bunch of bricks and a length of wood, I'm sure you can get your's out with a proper hoist! Personally I think its best to take it out complete with (gearbox) transmission, saves messing about with trying to get the awkward gearbox bolts undone with it still in position. Mine came out fairly easily once the bolts were all removed from the transmission tunnel. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27564... MORE
when you pull just the engine by itself, you have to lift it slightly before you can move it forwards, so that the front pulley clears the cross member (assuming you have an A series engined car, not a 1500 - the cross member is different) However, the top of the gearbox comes up against the heater ducting below the battery tray, so you have to lift a bit and pull a bit repeatedly and gradually work the thing past all the obstructions. If you pull the engine and 'box together, it's slightly easier from this respect, but you... MORE
Hi all, I am about to pull out my engine and tranny with a hoist and I know that I can either pull them together as one unit or separately. Any advice on the pros and cons of either method would be appreciated. Thanks Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 27559... MORE
