MAIN
Transmission
Previous Page | Next Page
I just bought a 76' midget that has everything but an engine. It has the tranny. And I need to put an engine in it. I would like to go back to stock, but I can't find a decent engine for what I can afford. I was wondering what other enginges are a reletively easy swap into this car. A old friend of mine put a Mazda Rx7 into his, and it was awesome. Any ideas? "livelarg" 25064... MORE
Hi All I have the same problem only It is just on the front left side. I changed the flex hose too. I didnt how ever change or rebuild the master cylinder.I am wondering if it could be the brake union. Maybe the slideing part is stuck. Is this possible? This is where I was heading next. Thank you Rick "mtman19552002" 25062... MORE
So I am motoring down a nice quiet highway at 50MPH and come to a leisurely stop at a traffic light. 30 seconds go by, light turns green and I motor on up to 50 MPH again. AFter about a mile, I detect the distinct smell of burning brakes. Dang, I hope that's not me.... unfortunately it was. SO I pulled over to the side and came to a stop. The brake pedal was hard and would not depress very far. Furthermore, the brakes were not responding very well (nor grabbing). After stopping I noticed the stinky smoke coming... MORE
If you are certain you are getting enough travel out ot the slave cylinder to disengage your clutch, then the first thing that comes to mind is that your clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel. How long has it been since it was driven and working properly? Was the fluid loss the reason for the failure and was it from sitting to long? Three other posibilities: * First motion shaft is stuck in or has to much friction with the pilot bushing. * Clutch pressure plate spring/s have failed. * Throw out bearing has come off the fork.... MORE
I am having problems with clutch not disngaging on my 1275 midget. T save cylinder dumped allm of its fluid. I have replaced cylinder and it is wirking correctly however clutch is still not disengaging completely and I am unable to get any gearsw when engine is running. Have changed slave cylinder for smaller bore 1098cc one to get more throw on cluthch lever to no avail. Car is running a five speed sierra box with roller release bearing but this seems o.k. Any suggestions as to why clutch still won't disengage properly before Iresort to removing engine and... MORE
Reshelled? Seems to me if the color on the bulkhead/areas up under the dash is not the original color then what is left of the car but the engine trans and drive train. :-) As Nigel was pointing out it would be very rare if that is not the original color if it matches one of the few original colors the car came from the factory from. A previous owner would have had to strip the car down to the shell, strip all the paint from all surfaces and repaint in order for hidden areas to be other than... MORE
you can wrap paper masking tape around the outside of the u-joint to stiffen it up or stuff a bit of newspaper into the joint itself. Either way it will simply unravel of fall off/out under use with no ill effects. In either case use only enough to stiffen it..not mummify it :-) Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 24893... MORE
Help! I am sure I have heard or read of a slick method to do this, but can't seem to find it in the archives. My problem is this, I have the engine and transmission all in, but neglected to put the driveshaft into the back of the transmission till now. Is there a clever way to keep the U-joint from flopping around long enough to get this into the transmission without cutting holes anywhere? The last LBC (a 70 Midget) of these I owned (20 years ago) it seems some previous owner had solved this problem by tearing... MORE
Help! I am sure I have heard or read of a slick method to do this, but can't seem to find it in the archives. My problem is this, I have the engine and transmission all in, but neglected to put the driveshaft into the back of the transmission till now. Is there a clever way to keep the U-joint from flopping around long enough to get this into the transmission without cutting holes anywhere? The last LBC (a 70 Midget) of these I owned (20 years ago) it seems some previous owner had solved this problem by tearing... MORE
Hello fellow listers, I am sure I have seen a slick method to do this, but can't seem to find it in the archives. My problem is this, I have the engine and transmission all in, but neglected to put the driveshaft into the back of the transmission till now. Is there a clever way to keep the U-joint from flopping around long enough to get this into the transmission without cutting holes anywhere? The last one of these I owned (20 years ago) it seems some previous owner had solved this problem by tearing a hole in the... MORE
Most of this stuff is ferrous so a magnet on a stick (essenttial workshop tool) will pick it out too. "Jeremy Cogman" 24804... MORE
I work either on a gravel driveway or the back yard so my magnet stick is essential. I also end up will all sort of things that I did not drop but reflect a history of what was dropped before me. Don "Don May" 24807... MORE
Make sure the cable is correctly routed and has no tight bends then check the gearbox end of the cable is correctly located, either or both of these could be your problem. Dave "David Dixon" 24772... MORE
$1000.00 takes this car home. Forced to sell, getting married and need the cash, bonnet alone is worth $1200.00 andI have put more then that just into restoring the bonnet. It is one of three known Thomas Denner Bonnets left in the world. The car is RHD with a new rack, and tie rods imported from the UK, most parts to finish it needs paint and body for the rear half and there is no motor or trans. I also have custom made glass side curtians. Photos are uploaded to this sites photos section. Southern California 909-947-8099 Mike "Michael"... MORE
Both cars were last driven approx 1 yr ago. The B probably has a few months left on its MOT and other than being real tatty is fine. The Midget was driving OK, but apparently the clutch started slipping so was parked up till the owner had time to work on it. It hasnt been taxed or MOT'd for about 3 yrs. They are both in the Saintfield area. If you are interested email mail me a phone number and I will give you a call about seeing them. Which one would you be tempted by (or both)? I... MORE
Can a 1500 engine and trans from a 1976 midget bolt into a 1973 Midget? A good "MG" friend feels it should not be a problem, but I thought I would post the question to see if anyone has done this before. Any suggestions / advice would be greatly appreciated. "afminc13" 24693... MORE
Still do one cylinder at the time starting with the one farthest from the master cylinder, or can one do both rears at the same time? Steve Quandt "Steve Quandt" 24683... MORE
Dave.... I ass-u-me oversize seats for oversize valves but, I do NOT "know" Datsun engines....so best to check with machinist for "right" answer. :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24672... MORE
Can you wait for the lettering spacing. I am having new outer sills fitted and the new ones do not have holes for the letters in them so I am recovering the old sills and going to make a paper pattern for the fixing holes. I will reference the front top and bottom of the sill on it. Then scan it in and anyone can have it. My master plan was to stick the paper on the sill with wall paper paste and drill through for the fixings then soak off the pattern. Terry "terry.isherwood" 24660... MORE
Oh yes I have! I'm Thinking of taking a little further training, and then starting a new career as a contortionist! It makes it a lot easier to lift around without the engine and transmission and the back axle and the ... Well just as a bodyshell really! R. "Roger Stinson" 24618... MORE
It probably makes no measureable difference. The structure of these cars is quite strong, and the engine/trans weight is not far from the front axle centerline, so I doubt there is any change in panels fit you would be able to see. The factory certinly didn't care, and with even slight effort, your car will be straighter than when it was new... "Jeffrey Holmes" 24604... MORE
Welcome, Sam... Suggest you follow DLancer's advice and be prepared to do both rear brakes as well (unless the other side is basically new) as that oil usually renders that particular side useless in this respect.... Afraid I do not have the parts you seek, though I do already have a copy of Blaggot's fine book, thank you! As far as additives go, don't exactly know what motivates you in this, Sam. Usually, a quality brand is all that is required along with oil/filter changes every 3K or so. It is the additive package which is usually the difference... MORE
Hello, i'm new to the group and I am looking for just a few bits,..mostly a period radio, a stock muffler, and (I realize its a stretch and yes, I know I can get one on e-bay or through the standard mail order companies, but it never hurts to ask) a black carpet kit for my 1962 midget. I also have a spare copy of John Blaggots book "Mighty Midgets and special sprites"...its very nice book and its in perfect condition. aaand while I have your attention, I have oil running out my back left hand side rear wheel... MORE
My 72 midget has roughly the same problem. I solve it by dropping it into second before trying first or reverse. I think it is just the way the gearbox was designed. Hope this helps. Brad "Brad Matheny" 24489... MORE
All good points.... and yes....since you have to pull the engine to replace the clutch, always do so whenever the engine has to come out (unless you know it's basically brand new) for whatever reason...matter of economics...quite right, Bill French! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24481... MORE
