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I took a 800 mile ride this weekend, to take my Bugeye to Rivergate shop, after much number crunching, it came out that if I had them build an engine for me, and rebuild a 5 speed, the shipping on that would eat me alive, so in my thought I asked what it would be if I brought my car to them to have the work done, of course I know it will take another trip down there, to pick up car, but... the shipping would have been more expensive than the labor they charged to install, so that's... MORE
oh, a loop of cord with a stick twisted in it (and some washing-up liquid on the rubber) works wonders. Regards David "David Jacobs" 26733... MORE
Cap'n Bob, My you do go on. I can't process all of what you sent but I will speak to part of it. As the father of two boys (21 and 15)I know (first hand empirical) that the parents of children within 5-10 years of mine either way are the worst in a long time. This is my generation and they, as a group, suck! The catalog of selfishiness, over-indulgence in all areas, horrific judgement and evasion of adult responsibilities of all kinds is truly mind-blowing. All the silliness of the 60's and 70's was pounded into the wits... MORE
Brad Shurrup you, cantankerous so and so ! ; ) My car isn't going to be a 'concours' car. Whilst I do try to stick to 'originality' as much as possible, I'm not going to down the route of replacing perfectly good components for new ones just for the sake of aesthetics, because I also beleive in retaining as much of the 'original' car as possible. I may put the car in for some 'condition class' competitions, because it would be nice to get some recognition for all the hard work thats gone in, but it will never be... MORE
Well, I took the carbs off and found that when the machine shop had bored the bodies for oversize shafts they did a very poor job. The center of the bore was shift a few thou up which caused the butterfly not to seal on the bottom. That job was done many years ago. Fortunately I have a another set of carbs that I can use. The engine no can be made to idle just about where I want it although with the cam (VP3 in a 1098) it doesn't like low idle speeds, greater than 900 is good.... MORE
Roger Yeah I so hate having to do that! This comment was made in frustration after a 'head down' lack of progress day. You know those kind of days, I'm sure we've all had them. You spend the entire day in the garage and make no progress at all, due to one stuck nut/screw/name your devil. Made even more frustrating knowing there was so many others things I can be getting on with. The choice is there, do you continue with said stuckness, or do you just think, right I'll shift that problem over to someone else and get... MORE
"you change the endearing handling by a ton..." per Ed! :) This is true. The suspension was built with a certain sized tire contact patch in mind. When you change only the contact patch (larger, most especially "wider") you can expect more stability/grip but less "tossability", all else remaining equal or the same. One of the reasons for this is the slight change toward neg. camber which comes with the slightly wider track, most especially when teamed with a wider wheel. Now you can keep the "tossability" but move it up in the speed range with the right combo... MORE
the reduction in unsprung weight, or more correctly, the *ratio* of unsprung to sprung weight, has more of an effect on how the suspension works (as the springs and shock abosorbers work more efficiently) than outright straight line performance so it's rather more "less" than "more" ;-) Regards David "David Jacobs" 26469... MORE
My book (Chilton 210) says manual transmissions should use API GL-4 which I think is 75W-90 or 80W-90. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26463... MORE
All, I searched the archive but could not find a post and my local trans shop was no help. I just put a 5 speed datsun trans into my bugeye and am trying to locate info as to what oil to use and how much. Just guessing I'd say 30w std motor oil and about a quart. But more accurate information is always helpful. Thanks ken horner "pblock4x4" 26454... MORE
Well Bob.... While you don't NEED a wider wheel than 4.5, you will get more out of the upgrade to 70 series in terms of handling (all else being equal) with as much of the tire "under" the rim, rather than having the tire "beyond" the rim. And I would think, that Minilite knockoffs (or "wannabes) would require a helluva lot less maintanence than wire wheels? They would also probably be lighter(?) which will decrease unsprung weight, the effect of which would be like going with a lightened flywheel in terms of performance (more or less:). Cap'n. Bob '60... MORE
Yes... Bill Perry does favor the new synthetic oils as they are simply superior to the mineral oil based products, which BTW are pretty damn good themselves these days. Synthetic also allows for MUCH easier shifting of the box in cold weather, especially subsequent to initial start after the car has been sitting in freezing temps. overnight. However, their "slipperiness" and flow characteristics virtually guarantee that in all cases, you will either "lose" more or "burn" more in either event, the loss of synchronizer action in the gearbox already having been discussed. I had a minor leak in the... MORE
Ken... The Datsun box utilizes standard mineral based gear oil although I personally favor "synthetic" gear oil in the winter months for much easier shifing in the cold (just changed over yesterday as a matter of fact). The foregoing having been said, the synchronizers were made with normal mineral based gear oils in mind though, so while cold weather shifting (most especially from 1st to 2nd) will be much easier with synthetic, synchronizer effectiveness will suffer a bit for you "quick shifters"! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26456... MORE
http://www.rivergate5speed.com/desc_of_trans.html Follow the above link, and you'll find a manual on the transmission. It has a filler hole that can be accessed from the underside of the car. I honestly can't remeber what what oil I used. (I debated the issue several days with my father before going with the oil mentioned in the rivergate kit instructions) "Trevor Jessie" 26458... MORE
Listers, one and all. For the past few years we've had a group of enthusiasts gather in Madison WI (USA) for a bit of post-Thanksgiving turkey Sprite dismantling and/or rebuilding called Save Our Sprites. These "events" take place the Friday and Saturday after Thanksgiving (Nov. 28,29 this year) and are viewable over the internet through some video magic. (details later) We hope to improve that this year with faster service for better interaction. In the past, those who wanted to contribute, but couldn't attend, offered food and beverage from their locality. We've had some great variety from scrapple to... MORE
(still in the box) clutch MC. I purchased the slave and MC, and only needed the slave. Again, thanks in advance for any further words of advice. Later, Pete 78 midget Granville, OH "Pete Skalski" 26422... MORE
Pete I don't know much about MC's let alone a dual 1500 one, but I would certainly try a repair kit for it first. If it is only a leak, it's probably one of the seals that needs replacing. It's up to you really, do you want to gamble 20 or 30 bucks on a repair kit and hope that fixes the problem, or want to go down the safe route and simply order a new one? If it's any help, I shall be turning my attention to my MC's soon, one was replaced fairly recently by a PO,... MORE
You might try going through the group archives, Pete. A while back there was a bit of discussion about having the master cylinder resleeved. That has got to be a lot better priced than buying a new unit. I can remember the name of the place that was said to be avoided but I couldn't locate quickly the place that was recommended. Good luck, Nelson in Medina, Ohio Mk 2 Sprite pieces "Nelson Wittstock" 26419... MORE
Fellow spridgeteers, Just noticed a very slight leak from my dual line master cylinder (78 midget 1500), and it appears I'm going to have to bite the bullet and order a new one from Moss or VB for the handsome price of 200 clams. I checked with Dick Burger at the BPC, and he is willing to part with one for a slightly better sum of ~190 (delivered). Here's the question line. Is it worth my while to order the repair kit, and attempt to fix this (knowing the paramount issue here is safety), or if not, which vendor... MORE
There are 4 gears floating around in there. The Big gear that drives the axles, a little gear that comes in from the driveline and 2 other gears that transfer the power from the driveline to the axles. Any one of them have a broken tooth, and it is time to say, what is your gear ratio. 3.9 to 4.22, swap rear ends, 3.7? or 4.55? what is it worth to stay at this gear ratio? 5.?? You are in trouble. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26411... MORE
If what Mike says checks out and the diff looks okay, check the transmission/motor mounts. I had a similar sound and I guess the body carried or amplified the sound of the drive-train flexing because after I replaced the mounts, the sound stopped. Jack Texas "austinbud2002" 26390... MORE
if im building a midget metro turbo but want to keep the boost to 7/8 psi and use an intercooler and aquamist 1s water injection could i use the comp ratio of 9.4:1? and remain well under detonation level? what would be the best way to build this engine or which engine midget/marina etc would be best to use for this application? the reason for the higher comp is i still want good half throttle fuel economy which ignition system would people reccomend for this too? thanks for using everyones vast knowledge rob "Robert EADES" 26378... MORE
Hello I am new in this list, and has recently bought a 67' Midget. The car has been restored to an excellent condition. The only thing I can put the finger on, is a "clunk" sound coming from the back of the car everytime when I release the clutch, or tramp on the speeder. I would appreciate any suggestions regarding the cause of the sound. Jan Erik "jmaalen" 26351... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
VP3 cam...oh, yeah!!! Martyn, this is about as hot as you can get for the road in a 1275 and still have decent low end for light to medium traffic. In your smaller 1098, it's almost a mild race cam! Hopefully, you have the larger main bearing "cc" engine because this cam's torque curve comes in at about 3200 on a 1275cc+ motor and will pull right through 7,000rpm with larger valves and 1.5 rollers. On my 1340, it would idle very nicely at about 1,000rpm (nice "lopey" sound) and behaved very well using a 45DCOE with a Weber... MORE
